Mmiller2001

It's fine as long as it's a varied diet. Frozen daphnia should be included in the diet. They will pick at algae and plants if they need to.

100% it can. Any change to the tank can cause unhappy plants. Plants like consistency, and when we alter things too much, or too fast, they will let you know. Just make sure you are dosing correctly and stick with it.

Try this. NICREW Aquarium Light Timer, Fish Tank Light Controller and Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KYLX2P6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_F3DZMBNATJ975MYGS5M2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Just make sure the light has the same connectors. Or try 7 hours. Also, raising the light a bit will work too.

Not really. If you feel that you need to reduce light, then reduce the intensity and set the light for 8 hours. Staghorn is usually caused by excess ammonia, high organics and unstable CO2 levels. Ironically, a lighting siesta causes fluctuating CO2. I would Increase water changes to maintain around 20ppm NO3 and vacuum your substrate thoroughly.

I would look at Finnex Planted ALC's, Cheaper and better spectrum.

The 5 degree change so abruptly could be a cause. Do you prime the tank or the source water. Maybe they added extra chlorine at the source? Do you know the TDS of the tank and of your source water?

If the plant is weak, they will eat them. Reduce the amano population or target feed them regularly.

Separate the two. Think of nitrates, from fertilizer, as a different parameter. After your water change, test nitrates, that would be the water change indicator. If you did a water change, then tested 80ppm Nitrates you would want to change more water. If you test 10ppm after a water change, no problem. Regardless, you need to be dosing fertilizer. Dose after your water change and after you test.

There's not one specific article I could link you to unfortunately, but you would look at the type of fish you keep and try to emulate the ideal conditions for them. I keep tetras and Apisto's, I know they are soft water fish and should be fine in 0 to 3dKH. You will just have to research your fish and find a happy medium and set that KH. Also, my primary goal is plants. So I keep a 0dKH. And have chosen fish that can thrive within this parameter. How I calculate the amount to use is here. https://rotalabutterfly.com/nutrient-calculator.php All you need to know is the gallons and the compound you dose. Example, I have a 20 gallon aquarium with water measuring 2dKH. I want to increase the tank to 4dKH. I want true gallons, so let's say it's actually 16 gallons. It's not completely full, 3 inches of substrate and the aqua scape. So I put 16 in the calculator, hit DIY and then select my compound. K2CO3 is potassium carbonate and is in the drop down box. I then choose dry dosing, because it's in powder form, and then use the drop down box to select dose to reach a target. My target is 2dKH, because my tank is alread 2dKH and I want 4dKH. I will enter 2 in the ppm box and hit calculate. The calculator then tells me I need to add 2.98g of potassium carbonate to raise my 16gallons by 2dKH. As far as how long KH last, it depends on the tank. You will just have to get a feel for things. Test KH after adding it, then test right before adding it some time later. Also I will add that I would never move a tank up or down by more than 1.5 degrees in a 24 hour period. So if you needed to raise it by 10 degrees, do it over 7 days or so. This will give them time to adjust.

The problem with crushed coral is that it raises both KH and GH. This may be undesirable. I like using potassium carbonate as it's cheap, readily available and easy to calculate with a side benefit of extra potassium.

You can buy CaSO4 and MgSO4 and use an online calculator to move your GH up in any ratio you want. https://greenleafaquariums.com/products/magnesium-sulfate-mgso4-1lb-bag.html https://greenleafaquariums.com/products/calcium-sulfate-caso4-1lb-bag.html

I have found that open air exposure is the best way to go. Obviously, some fish are jumpers, so use caution.

Thank you. It is. It's still Eco Complete currently

For the first time since changing the substrate, I can say something is going very right with this tank. Today is water change day and usually have a lot of GDA on the glass. Not this week! Overall, the tank is doing the best it has ever done. I will enjoy it one more week or 2. Then it's cut way back and rearrange.

I would try Levamisole.

Just topping off is not a water change. Water evaporation leaves the tank at zero TDS, therefore the TDS in the tank rises. Nothing is removed. Adding back zero TDS water restores the tank back to the TDS it had before the evaporation. Therefore it's a neutral process to top off.

I do water changes to target nutrient ppm and to keep consistent parameters. Also, organics come in several forms and the only way to remove them is via water changes. Unless you are testing every single element in your tank, it's impossible to know what's building up or depleted. Large 50% or greater water changes can remove those unknowns. That said, I have very specific goals and I do what's necessary to achieve those goals. Therefore, water changes are 100% necessary.

I've always just planted tissue cultures right into the tank. There's an initial stunted period, but then they quickly get going. My AR hate to be moved and I've found that just toping them and picking off ugly leaves is the best way to manage them. If you top them, and just replant the tops, they get real mad at you. So pick a good spot!

The reason I asked is because fluctuating CO2 can be a trigger for BBA.

https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/algae-control/how-to-get-rid-of-staghorn-algae

Dropping light intensity is where I would start as mentioned above. I would eliminate the blue channel altogether and reduce varying white channels. Here's my settings on my 40 gallon. Keep in mind I have the light raised about 3 inches above the tank.

You have to cut them off before they reach the surface as soon as you see them making a run. Eventually, the plant will stay more compact. Also, increasing light intensity, if you can, will help.

I have 3 of them. Wish I had not bought them. If all that's important to you is an app, and you don't mind spending 220.00 on an app, then go for it. It's not an RGB light, which is going to leave you with a yellow overtone. They boast 71 PAR at 18inches, that's all channels at max. You will quickly realize that having the blue channel anywhere near 100% causes problems. Then there's 3 channels of varying whites. Why? So having all white channels at max is problematic. Thus, the light drops PAR pretty quickly. For low light plants, it's not a problem. However, if you want to try higher light plants, it kind of becomes a problem. My best advice, do what makes you happy, but know that this light offers very little contrast and "pop". Here's a photo of my 75 under Fluval, then taken with a true RBG light. Notice the yellow overtone, you want true reds in your light and Fluval dose not offer that. I would really consider looking to other options. That said, it grows plants. I forgot to mention, Fluval has a good warranty. But for me, function first.

Because no man should ever have to suffer such torture!

https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/fertilize-planted-tank/mixing-dry-aquarium-fertilisers