Jump to content
Watch our video on the rules of this forum.

TheDukeAnumber1

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    836

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by TheDukeAnumber1

  1. TheDukeAnumber1
    It's also possible that you may be harvesting a little early for your temps.
  2. TheDukeAnumber1
    The entry barrier isn't too bad if you're willing to do a bit of DIY. My current printer is over 4 years old and cost about $165-ish shipped. It's a prusa i3 DIY kit with no special features but has really been great for the money.
  3. TheDukeAnumber1
    My 3d printer. IMO it's a great companion hobby for other hobbies. I've beed able to make a brine shrimp hatchery, air stone, easy feeder adapter, pea puffer house, light housings, and some other stuff. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3891884 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3774602 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3456731 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3375040 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1282574
  4. TheDukeAnumber1
    I do think you're right. I know that that usb meter at least used to be accurate and .02 amps did strike me as really low but I was busy and didn't confirm at the time. I just now retested with a more reliable tester and got .9 watts at the outlet. So .9 minus any usb power supply inefficiencies and we are still under a watt of power. If I find a surplus of time I'll just splice the wire and get a straight reading with a multimeter under different loads.
  5. TheDukeAnumber1
    Bio load is directly related to how much food you put into the aquarium, if you lower the temperature the fish's metabolism will slow and you can feed less but if you still feed the same your bio load has not decreased.
  6. TheDukeAnumber1
    https://www.petsmart.com/fish/food-and-care/water-quality-testers/tetra-6-n-1-aquarium-water-test-stips-17476.html They come in a separate bottle on their own strips. I would like a net that is invisible to fish eyes.
  7. TheDukeAnumber1
    I tested a few and I was getting .02 amps at 5.19 volts, this is well under a watt. So the solar panel you linked above should be plenty but also the original unit should be working. My guess is this is a case of the "smart" circuits being not so smart. Will it charge a phone while sun is on the panels? I would consider a plan B of pairing that new panel with the nitecore F1 or nitecore F2 charger. They aren't water resistant but are inexpensive, made for this situation, and the battery can be swapped out. I have a couple I keep around for power outages and I like them.
  8. TheDukeAnumber1
    I keep them in the freezer and separate out what I will use within a month into a separate bottle for daily use.
  9. TheDukeAnumber1
    Yeah you're on the right track. I forget how much power the nano pumps pull but I believe it's less than 5 watts, I will retest tonight and share. That solar panel may work but it does get mixed reviews about performing below the advertised wattage and I wouldn't want you to throw good money after bad. I'll do a little homework tonight to see what I can come up as far as how much power is needed and what components fit the project best. Is there a price point in mind for the total project that are you hoping to stay under?
  10. TheDukeAnumber1
    Next test getting a charge doctor might be helpful. And gathering pre test data like how long the battery will power the pump on a full charge, time required in full sun to charge the battery ect. Also sometimes drawing to little power well below the intended use can cause issues too. I know those pumps pull way less current than a phone will. https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Multimeter-Current-Detector-delivery/dp/B07P252NY2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=charge+doctor&qid=1595217075&sr=8-5
  11. TheDukeAnumber1
    I've admired the way you setup your tanks since seeing some of them in the old chat. Glad I got to see them all on the forum.
  12. TheDukeAnumber1
    My lights often got left on overnite or not turned on at all before I had timers. Now they are a must. I became attached to the older circular version of the GE Sunsmart timer. I've programmed it enough times to not forget so I bought a bunch on ebay for cheap. The backup batteries on them were dead or near dead but I soldered in a super cap where the battery used to be and now they work great and knock on wood will be good for life. I was unsure about the tab feeders at first but there is value in something so simple to setup that you never have to remember how it works to easily set it up again.
  13. TheDukeAnumber1
    I almost busted at the sign in your tank lol. It has been my thought that if you have a bubbler in the corner moving water anyways that the heater can go there vertically and the flow created by the bubbbler will prevent hot spots throwing off the heaters thermostat. Has worked for me. Then the heater is sort of out of the way.
  14. TheDukeAnumber1
    @Edward Steven @Cory Thanks guys. It's curious how a couple compliments really feeds the aquarium passion lol. All grown out from 2 val and 2 sag from the Co-op. It has been a very fun tank.
  15. TheDukeAnumber1
    Was a bit overdue on the water change and trim but I got it done today. Before/After pics
  16. TheDukeAnumber1
    Love the test, hope it goes well. I'm very curious to see how the battery holds being baked in the sun, my guess is that will be the failure mode. Might be a good idea to define "failure" too.
  17. TheDukeAnumber1
    When I was just starting with baby brine I designed and printed a dish style hatchery. It did well for ultra small batches until I upgraded to the bottle style. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3456731
  18. TheDukeAnumber1
    I can also vouch for aquarium note. It's easy to use and has a google dive backup option.
  19. TheDukeAnumber1
    I used an old whiskey bottle for mine, a topfin betta heater for temp control, and the Co-op metal valves work very well for this. I wanted to make a glass one just for fun, I guess I have a little more confidence with a heater in it since it's glass. I swear it actually looks nice when it's clean! @Bill Smith Wow, very nice. Counter top pretty.
  20. TheDukeAnumber1
    It's my own private well 75ft deep in a rural farm field in IL if that matters. I do soften the water coming into the house using iron out salt but I only use unsoftened well water for water changes. To my embarrassment my nitrates are high. I use the aquarium note app to log my maintenance and although I have been typically reliable on my monthly water changes admittedly it has been 2 months 22 days since my last water change ( ' _ ' ). I have been pretty busy and was hoping the plants would pull it out since they are still growing a lot. In defense of the issue though the problem started before my lapse in maintenance, my ghost shrimp isn't showing signs of stress, and the fish are being very prolific. This was my MTS colony of 10 years and I'm very sad to have lost them. I still have a remnant of them left when I gave some to a friend to help start his tank so there is still hope in restarting my original colony. I want to see this through so any help will be appreciated. Thanks again.
  21. TheDukeAnumber1
    Found it- https://www.tfhmagazine.com/articles/freshwater/a-scientific-economic-and-commonsense-approach-to-brine-shrimp-hatching This article covers all the bases, helped me a lot when I first started hatching.
  22. TheDukeAnumber1
    I have hatch rate issues too whenever I tried to hatch using softened tap water and pure salt. A pinch of baking soda or a pinch of seachem excel will increase hatch rate, using hard well water will help, but my preferred method is just to use "instant ocean". It has the salt and additives all together to get good hatch rates. Also make sure your temperature is 78ish for a 24 hour hatch and the bubbler is running well, if the hatchery is too cold it can take days to get a good hatch.
  23. TheDukeAnumber1
    Snails can eat the eggs and reduce fry production and can eliminate it entirely. I didn't have success with breeding white clouds until I kept them alone with no snails.
  24. TheDukeAnumber1
    ATM I have two tanks, a heavily planted 10 gallon and a nano tank both with aragonite substrate. For the longest time I have kept a decent colony of MTS and ramshorns, I think they are a fun part of the tank so I never minded keeping a lot around. But a few months ago I noticed all the MTS were held up in their shells in both tanks and a month later I had lost every MTS I have and most of the ramshorns had died with no changes in my normal maintenance routine which is a 50% water change and plant trim monthly. All the while my shrimp were acting normally and I didn't notice a die off in detritus worms or seed shrimp in the substrate. As it stands today I have a small population of ramshorns still holding on but I don't see them reproducing, and I got a dozen MTS from a friend a couple weeks ago to see if things had passed but when I put them in the tank they shelled up and never came out. I am at a complete loss here as to the cause and remedy. I live on a well in IL with off the charts KH and GH and never had an issue in years prior, so I'm left assuming it's a mysterious chemical in my well or a snail pathogen. Please help, I want my MTS back. Thanks...
  25. TheDukeAnumber1
    I am enjoying watching this come together, the scale that every thing needs to be done at is fun to see. Wondering how much baby brine it takes to give the rummy nose full bellies.
×
×
  • Create New...