anewbie

Will be interesting how the frys turn out; if they will take to their parents patterns or develop their own unique patterns.

You can power cycle them; then be patient they are slow to connect to wifi. Make sure wifi is turned on on your phone and (if concern) turn off mobile data. Also if i remember the kasa will only connect to older wifi technology - you can check the specs - make sure the type of wifi they require is turned on on your router. I think they don't work with the newer 5g. I think they require 2.4g.

But sometime the 'male' in the pair is a female 😉

Don't muck with the ph if it is the same as your other tanks. If the ph is not the same as your other tank then I would be concern that something is being introduced to the water that is changing it. Most fishes can adjust to a reasonable range of ph; if all your tanks have alkaline water and you muck with it then when you move the fish to the target tank they will have to adjust with it; if you muck with the target tank ph you will have to muck with it everytime you do a water change risking a shock to your fish on a regular basis. Stability is more important than the exact value in most cases. Naturally there are extremes. - The two big things to watch out with the api master kit is to make sure you don't use expired chemicals (for a new kit this shouildn't be an issue) and be sure to shake that nitrate #2 a full minute before adding to the tube and after adding it to the tube to get a reasonable reading. I suppose the other negative is that for some of the tests the different values are difficult to read do to narrow colour range (nitrate kit drives me crazy luckily exact values are not required).

By the time you factor in shipping the price isn't that high; still to make it work something else is probably going on here. coop might be able to determine if they are buying from them directly since there is only a single seller on amazon. Would it be possible they are buying them via the whole sale distributor? With regards to @shelbyd.mattison it doesn't matter if this helps or hurt the aquarium-coop as long as it isn't illegal it is inappropriate to complain (imho). Probably the worse of it is if they are obtaining the items via whole sale distributor and profiting off of aquarium-coop name but as long as they break no laws and these are genuine products review bombing (and you can review third party sellers without reviewing the product) is inappropriate.

Your qt tank isn't cycled as @colu noted. You need to put some prime or similar in the tank to neutralize that ammonia. Cardinals will not tolerate any ammonia or nitrite and 30% water change will probably not cut it; the ammonia will just reform in a day or so. Guppies and swordtails can tolerate a little ammonia and nitrite and I've used them to cycle tanks before but in all honestly this is a lost cause if you will try to qt fishes in an uncycled tank. - What I normally do for a qt tank is use a sponge filter from my regular tank that has been in there for at least a month; even then I monitor ammonia daily and at the first sign put in a few drop of sachem prime to neutralize it. Still cardinals are not a good fish to expose to ammonia. This is easy for me since all my tanks have extra sponge filters in them. This also makes it easy to move a fish to pail if i need to medicate it - just put in some water; add a mature sponge filter and toss in the fish.... and everyone is happy (i've had a sick fish in a pail now for 2 months). Anyway good luck. [There are other products that will neutralize ammonia besides sachem prime but since that is the only one i've used it is the one i mentioned. The problem with it is that ammonia will still measure with tests it is just in a less deadly state.]

Chances are pretty good that if they are not a pair you don't have a male and a female or they are not mature.... occasionally 2 females will behave like a pair but 2 males will never be a pair.

What temp is the tank? I don't have to do anything to encourage my angels; kind of wish there was a way to discourage them; so i suspect you don't have a pair - pictures would help.

I planted the following: 2 flamingo crypts 2 pinto anubia 2 Anubias Frazeri The frazeri were really big - almost 16 inches high. The flamingo were in emersed form. The pinto anubia were really large and one had a flower (the one i picked up 7 months ago flowers every other month; not a pretty flower but still a flower).

I really wouldn't; for one thing if the pair becomes tightly bound they will be more aggressive to other angels; also they might object to new angels entering their established territory. It can be of course unpredictable as it depends on the individual fishes. As for adding small ones - like wise it is very unpredictable. My grew the frys up in a sep tank and when they added it the pair actually ignored them and things were fine until their kids reached adulthood; however i have added small angels in the past and the female has immediately rejected them and attack them relentlessly (i had 29s where i could move the unwanted youngster). I have no idea why she accepted some but rejected others so just chalk it up to the unpredictable nature of angels.

Angels do form strong pair bonding but they are not for life; if you ever witnessed a break up there is nothing more violent than a female angel who has rejected her mate. Adding more angels would be a big mistake unless you actually have 2 females and want to find a male to breed with one of them. 3 can coexist (f/f/m) but not with total peace and there will be frequent bickering between females. Pictures would be helpful as with some probability the fishes can be sexed. Also a pair is quite capable of raising frys to free swimming in a community tank. Your tank is way too small for more than 1 pair of angels; I have a 120 with a few angels that is heavily planted and when 2 angels decide to fight there is no escape despite the dense planting. The tank also has some advantage that 5 of the angles are siblings; 2 are parents and 1 well that one is a long story but basically the platinum female stole her mate after driving out her old mate.

You might ask the houston store where they sourced them. Most cardinals are wild some from peru other from brazil but there are a few large operations that breed them. I know of one in florida (tend to have pretty good stock but not always). Cardinals are one of those fishes that are not too delicate once they settle in but are not easy to breed due to requiring extremely soft acidic water (more difficult than your typical blackwater fish). You could try mail ordering them. aquahuna sells them for not too much and has $12 flat rate shipping. I've not ordered cardinals from aquahuna so cannot vouch for them. I've been ordering mine from wetspot and they have been excellent with no deaths (2 different orders of 10+ each); but wetpsot shipping is $40 so only practical if ordering other stuff. I specifically order brazil cardinals for a number of reason (not sure if the other ones they sell are as hardy). I stopped buying cardinals from my local fish store because of health issues and high death rate. -- Also cardinals are one of those fishes that do better in a mature tank. They are not super sensitive and the older ones i have - have taken a lot of abuse (after all if you drive them 1500 miles in your car they aren't going to be treated with silk gloves); but they are sensitive to sudden changes and impure water.

Not related but also be aware that rams are fairly delicate and do not tolerate sudden temp change (such as when doing water changes). It doesn't take too much to upset them which usually leads to death.

Oh and make sure your substrate is reasonably deep - i personally go for 2 1/2+ inches myself but i tend to make my tank deeper than many others; also do not user super fine substrate; it will likely create issues a year later.

I'm gonna disagree with @Jungle Fan and @Streetwise and strongly recommend you only buy a few plants the first time. This is your first experience with them and you should not spend a lot of money until you understand better what will grow in your environment; else you will waste most of it. - As a general rule the following plants are pretty easy to grow: most aponogeton ( I strongly recommend boivinainus) most sword plants (I like red flame, melon and rossette among others; avoid purple aflame) most crypt (tons here a few require very hard water but most are easy wenditi comes in lots of colour and is popular) most vals (italia val is nice for a tank like yours) most java fern (don't bury the rhizome) most anubia (don't bury the rhizome) and a few other plants mentioned above in this thread. I would avoid plants with a lot of colour (outside of crypt wenditi red and a few of the swords) as they typically need stronger light and many require co2. -- Be aware that many plants will 'melt' the first few months and then regrow so you have to be patient; also some plants come in emersed form; they will keep their emersed leaves for a while and then start growing submersed form and eventually drop the emersed leaves (this can be common with swords). - For your first order i would recommend something like: 1 aponogeton boivinainus ( mid center back but not next to the glass) 1 (or 2) crypt wenditti green or red or bronze 3 italia val (unless you dislike that plant) for the sides a couple of not too expensive anubia of your choice. - I'd limit it to around $20 or $25 unless you are just hunkering to spend more. Be aware that some of the pictures in this thread are hi-tech tanks - you won't get that - here is a low tech tank I have:

Salt might not be the best thing; also if they are tank raised no need to treat them. I picked up 10 2 weeks ago and all 10 are fine and dandy today; doesn't help you but I will note that quality of cardinals depend a lot on their source; yea yea I know you purchased them at a store but where did the store obtain them from... The ones i have are from brazil. I purchased from a store that qt fishes before selling them.

I wouldn't treat with salt; it should just heal on its own.

Generally speaking cardinals are often kept with rams due to warmer temps. I had a debate with someone about neon; neon can of course tolerate the higher temp and some neon come from native region with warmer temps (though our captive bred vairiant are normally kept cooler). there is a general rule that for all fishes kept warmer they will live not as long but generally be healthier (more active immune system) within tolerance for the species. Sadly while it is true they don't live as long we rarely see it quantified so it is unclear if life expectancy is shortened by minute; days... or years....

Bit confused why would you sell them as trio as Nijisseni are not harem breeders ? They are also very territorial so eventually the third one would be restrictive to a small corner ?

Generally speaking neon and cardinal tetra will get paler as they get stressed/scared. So yes if it was sep. from the group it might begin to pale. Frequently when i buy new cardinals they are completely pale (both red and blue); but as soon as they find the group i already own they immediately brighten in joy and become quite colourful.

fyi aquahuna has some in stock and they do 6 packs and shipping is $12. Not sure how the cost per fish compare to your other site. They also have gaxaly rasbora (cdp) in stock. They do 8 pack and again shipping for entire order is only $12. Just be aware that the fishes you purchase from aquahuna might be very small (young) so if you have predators they might become food.

Which auto feeder do you use? Btw fishes have an excellent sense of smell and will find that food no matter where it drops.

I'd skip the montel carlo and scarlet temple until you get a bit more experience. Both can be a bit finicky and difficult to grow at time. Plenty of people will report success with both but imho they are a bit more crap shoot. The anubia should grow well but if you get the potted version be sure to remove all the rock wool else it will eventually rot and be sure to not bury the rhizome. You might try to get some Pogostemon Stellatus Octopus for the back ground; also you might try a crypt wenditti red for the fore ground or mid ground or wenditti green. For the foreground I'd try tropica rossette sword. Very short growing sword approx 1 inch high with dark green leaves.

I currently have the following cat fishes: some species of countless otto; 8 P. maculicauda; 7 L204; 4 lemon eye blue eye; 1 regular bn; 1 super red bn; 1 L333; 12 pygmy cory; 10 orange laser cory; lots of sterbai: These are my observations: otto; they do their thing and they mostly don't care what you do. red fin otto; pretty smiilar to otto but slightly more shy L204 mostly pretty shy; but will come to the front to eat zuc but easily startled and always a bit leary of out of tank movement bn (all types); unpredictable; some are super bold; some super shy sex does not seem to matter. I've had males that hide 24/7 period; and females that do the same; i've had males that gladly eat in front and could care less what you do; females same deal. L333 super shy; lives in his cave - will poke his nose out if hungry; but slightest movement will send him back pgymy cory - pretty shy but not as bad as some of the others. orange laser cory pretty shy sterbai - after 2+ years still super shy. - A few pictures: L204: Lemon BN: I have a few other pictures just ask....

I can't figure out if platinum parrots is a colour morph or something completely different. Parrot fishes typically get 5 to 8 inches and are too large (bulky) for a 20 high. If platinum are simply a colour morph than eventually they will out grow the tank.