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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    You would keep KH right where it's at, then try to get GH to the 6-8 range using something like equilibrium. Try to keep the GH>KH and you'll see things start to improve.
  2. nabokovfan87
    A bit of a tip for installation on this. If you install the tubing to the rim holder on the tank and if that holder is properly installed with all of the tabs locked into place, then you can slide the tubing freely through the channel as you need to. This allows you to adjust the height on things as you need to once you have them in place. It makes height adjustments a little bit easier! The next question I will have to tackle is determining if and how much the tube structure itself is limiting the flow. I will report back when I have those results if I notice any difference on the intake or outtake performance once I remove the ribbed tubing.
  3. nabokovfan87
    If you ever want a fun challenge... try to get your RTBS to sit still. I had a bit of fun watching Grace this morning. Very coy and very majestic. She looks like she grew a little! Slightly funny how small she is (camera trick) compared to the amano being gigantic in the back!
  4. nabokovfan87
    I want to say I have.... but I think something like super green or soilent green is more their jam. At some point, for breeding, fish will need a protein source. It's good to have some to offer, even if it's once a week. I rarely, ever see my otos eat. They pretty much just do their own thing and the food is there for them in droves all over the surfaces on the tank, plant leaves, etc.
  5. nabokovfan87
    If you want to carpet the plant, I would think the best way would be to use something like an UGF plate and use that to anchor it to the substrate. That being said, I think it does a lot better on grids and on the sides of the tank as opposed to other places. I would only tie it, the times when I tried to glue it didn't end well. It grew, but eventually came off.
  6. nabokovfan87
    Thanks! I wish I had a better scape, but it works well. It looks so empty in that photo! In person the scale of things is great though. I am excited for when I can add more moss and other decor items.
  7. nabokovfan87
    I'm not sure how you can route things, but I really like the layout that simply betta did for her rack. Drain setup: Air setup: I've seen it done a lot of different ways, but the reason I like this is because you can literally move the rack and it's all one unit. Works well long term. Essentially: Water in from RODI for top offs. Storage on the top shelf to drip in during water changes. Bottom shelf is a sump for the sake of filtration on the whole rack. Each row goes to the drain, that drains down to the sump, pumps back up to circulate. All runs through overflows and "just works".
  8. nabokovfan87
    Get a 60 and grow some stems? Planted, dutch-style tank? Shrimp? If you don't already have these tanks, be warned... my local petco stopped selling them.
  9. nabokovfan87
    Definitely a weird issue. Traditional pumps, I don't think I've ever seen or had issues with using polyfil. I've never tried it in an internal, but my first bet would be to go ahead and verify the pump is working exactly as it should. If there's not enough force (i.e. pressure) then something like very fine foam would be advised. But, polyfil is actually less dense than some foams I've seen. A lot of this breaks down into strength of magnets and impeller designs. Meaning, impellers being designs very cheaply and the blades not being very robust to push water as opposed to move it. If all else fails @AllFishNoBrakes I have a tidal that you can mod or there is the sicce internals that definitely have a quality pump.
  10. nabokovfan87
    These ones may not have enough genetic variation due to very limited parents. That being said, yeah, they do definitely live long! 10+ years being expected lifespan I believe. Eye issues I don't think are common at all. These could've been caused by an injury when she was young, genetics, or even CO2 being in the tank she was raised in. She was the only one that had the issue. She seems perfectly healthy otherwise and there isn't many issues at all. Very fun fish and I really do enjoy my corydoras herds!
  11. nabokovfan87
  12. nabokovfan87
    For anything smaller (20 Long being smallest recommended) I would do 6-8 as a start. As mentioned, they breed pretty regularly. Something like dwarf Corydoras would be my choice though. Hasbrosus, hastatus, etc.
  13. nabokovfan87
    Free chlorine is a very effective disinfectant. Total chlorine is the combination of both free (available) chlorine and reacted chlorine, or chloramines. Chloramines are formed when free chlorine reacts with organic compounds including ammonia. Chloramines are not effective sanitizers and may cause eye and skin irritation in addition to a strong chlorine smell. Chloramine levels can be determined by subtracting the amount of free chlorine from the amount of total chlorine (example: free chlorine = 0.5 ppm, total chlorine - 1.0 ppm, thus, 1.0 ppm - 0.5 ppm = 0.5 ppm chloramine).
  14. nabokovfan87
    For the sake of recording keeping.... Heater added to the tank today. I set it to 73 and I know all of my heaters I need to keep an eye on things getting too warm. Some might be broken or aging out of use. Hard to say. I looked at the tank today and everything was pretty good. I don't see a ton of milk or mess or issues. I added a half gallon of distilled water I had set aside and ferts and left it at that for this week's maintenance. The females that have eggs should be laying and molting, so this just helps reduce stress. As always, the only real struggle right now is trying to decide and how to best feed Riddick and to keep the shrimp happy. They absolutely aren't afraid of her in any capacity. They do their own thing and I believe she's been focused on worms in the substrate more than anything. We'll see how things do as worms die off or small shrimp are born, fingers crossed and think positive. I really would love for her to do well long term with the shrimp!
  15. nabokovfan87
    40B, 60B, 75G are all giant to me. I would add an asterisk for your 40B there and just pencil in a 60B. Same thing, but a foot longer. There's a ton of options when you have more lateral swim space, but.... I'm right there with you. I'd be happy with either one any day.
  16. nabokovfan87
    Looks good! I had to mess with mine yesterday. Pollen feeding day. One day the plants will come. 😂
  17. nabokovfan87
    It happens! Hopefully the media stayed wet and things recover.
  18. nabokovfan87
    For sure! I am just waiting to see a school of "hundreds" of corydoras. It's too majestic. 😂 It's just not the same as a ton of them!!!! I love seeing them do this.
  19. nabokovfan87
    Aqueon quietflow or marineland penguin pro would be my go to for that application. Tidal would be, but the intake is definitely a concern. Tidal 35 if you cut a prefilters. Easily a great application for it.
  20. nabokovfan87
    It's tough to say. There's an expression/visual example in engineering, if you try to structurally fix a noodle by adding supports everywhere and balancing the load, it's still a noodle. The weakest point is always the weakest point. Let's say the struts and everything are fine, but the top surface has "some issues" and it's weakened. Let's project that out even further to say that it's thin and not strong enough. Keep in mind, most times you build things to handle 2-3x the strength, minimum just because you don't want to overstress the materials. One small bump or nudge, maybe that causes that rot section to fail. It's so hard to say. Let's say the top surface is fine, but as you're working you have the struts fixed in some sections. Maybe that causes the others to fail if you have materials with different strengths (loads up/down) or crossbeams (loads left to right). I think your best source for information is going to be @Pepere and he's got a wood stand build that's amazing and awesome. My best advice is to look into structural lumbar and try to research the actual load and strength characteristics. Maybe you make a skeleton and plop this on as an external shell. Then you have piece of mind for decades.
  21. nabokovfan87
    Different location is different patterns, basically. Bosemani is a general "catch all" term as opposed to others which have locations tied to specific color variations. @Bentley Pascoe was talking about aves creek for his as well as one other collection point that was mentioned. Very beautiful and distinct fish! There's some places that will use the more specific terminology like L-numbers for plecos and others will just say "clown pleco". If you can tie things back to specific, clear origins, that usually is better for the sake of understanding what you're working with, buying/selling, and give you a better idea for any sort of specific care needs in that origin location. https://rainbowfish.angfaqld.org.au/Boesemani.htm
  22. nabokovfan87
    The struts will help even out the loading, then the question goes back towards what @Pepere was mentioning about how that stress is loaded. On this bottom left corner, and in other photos the whole bottom side there, it looks a lot like mold / rot damage. There's some pieces of wood that might be better replaces as opposed to painted over. I would also consider the size of the wood you're using and look up the strength values of something like what you have currently as opposed to 2x4's and other sizes. The final thing there is to try to keep it setup so that you can get a decent sump underneath/inside the cabinet. Depending on placement this might mean adding a removable panel on the side to allow you to slide in the tank. This also means that the base of the stand needs to be able to support a certain amount of weight as well. I would assume each of those posts meets with a leg in the stand at the base.
  23. nabokovfan87
    You said it well in the opening of your post there. How we enjoy the hobby is pretty critical and this is one of those things in life where you invest yourself in such a specific way, like meditation, and you have the chance to see a bit more about yourself thought that process. It's good to see the enjoyment of the 60 above. I have had plenty of tanks, but I always find a lot of enjoyment when I focus on or limit myself in some way. Having the ability to tighten in on the focus and keep one or two things as the mindset really helps for my own enjoyment of the hobby. As always, I wish I could do more or have more, but sometimes the joy is to focus on what you have and how you can find the happiness out of that.
  24. nabokovfan87
    It makes me miss my false julii's corydoras! I'm glad you're having fun with them. I've never kept them before, but I can only imagine years from now how the pattern will develop and look amazing.
  25. nabokovfan87
    RO water should basically have nothing in it. RODI water definitely should have nothing in it. As far as dechlorinator, this is the closest I can find to a helpful video on the topic. Essentially there's a matter of seconds-minutes for dechlorinator to do it's job. If that's not the case then potentially you might have some bad dechlorinator. Some other key points here...
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