nabokovfan87

Here's to hoping for season 2. Feels like a show you'd enjoy to participate in. (Just saying) It's definitely one where I was glad I finished it and got to see the full scope of it all. Glad you enjoyed!

There's a lot to digest, but from what I can gather you are using a fully internal filter. Can you let me know which one specifically so that I can look into what might work to alleviate issues. I would never recommend modifying an impeller. Some common fixes for this usually all lead to using foam or to using hardscape. Something like a matten filter is also a good option for this as well. Hopefully you find a setup that you're successful with and gives you the peace of mind. If you're keeping shrimp still I really like the hikari sponge filters so shrimp don't get trapped in the filter.

I would lean towards removal and replacement. Is it just dirty, are you able to clean it with a soft brush and get some tighter photos.

I'm very sorry @Tropicalfishkeeping201

Overfeeding and leaving uneaten food in the tanks. For whatever reason they show up but they thrive due to basically not siphoning or not maintaining things like filtration.

I'll end up replacing it eventually. The goal right now was to just get it secure. Looks good! I'll be so happy when I swap out the pipe. (And tubing)

Stocking? (most corydoras don't like temps that high) PH seems low (indicating Water changes might not be happening as often as need be) Nitrate at 80 (indicating water changes might not be happening as often as need be) I am very uncertain what on earth that white spot is and It's very, very difficult to see any detail due to the angle/focus on the photos. If you can, please try to keep taking some in focus / sharp focus. That being said, my biggest question would be about what filtration you're running, how often you're changing water, and how much. You mention 10-20% WC. I would recommend a 30% minimum right now just for the sake of the parameters you're seeing. Sidenote.... I don't think this is a "heavily planted tank" compared to others I've seen, but for the sake of understanding the setup, please share a full tank shot so we can see the tank itself and setup. I think if anything, the corydoras may have hit itself on some hardscape and caused a bit of a wound. The question is whether it's showing any indication of bacterial or fungal issues right now.

Welcome to the forums. Yeah that definitely looks genetic and the boney-scales on the fish seem to be not interrupted by fins on where the dorsal should be. I would move the fish away from the main colony to stop those genes. (I have one of my corydoras with a similar genetic issue) Hopefully the fish is eating, no issues, and just enjoying it's life.

There's a few key links here and I share the thread because it might be a key one to follow along. My recommendation would be to dose in the ich-x as well as 1 tbsp of salt per 5G for the shrimp tank. Don't re-dose the salt, but if you do a WC on the ich-x every 3-5 days, that should be ok. With shrimp, longer gaps between WC is better. You may see some stress signs, but the most common way to treat shrimp diseases will be salt dosing, not dips, but actual dosing. That dose of 1 per 5G is something I've used on my own tank and have had isses with higher doses. It feels like the right / safe dose for neocaridina/caridina shrimp. Hopefully that helps!

Understandable. Make sure the buckets have lids or tie heavy towels to the top of them. The tank itself, you just want to empty it as much as possible from anything heavy. Secure it so it doesn't break during travel, but it should be generally ok.

I believe the recommended treatment is salt, which is something I've done pretty recently with my shrimp colony. I'll double check the articles linked above (great source of information). I can't really tell, so more photos and maybe even a video may help! I don't think those are eggs though. Vorticella seems most likely from what we can see! https://aquariumbreeder.com/shrimp-infection-vorticella-treatment/

This is one of the substrates I'm dying to try, but it's very intimidating. I would imagine it's bits of seiryu stone.

I would keep the fish and the shrimp separate just for the sake of acclimation on the other end of things. Move the fish / shrimp to their buckets. Try to add any ceramic media to the bottom of the bucket, one airstone in each, and then just drive to the destination. Plants can float and be split between the two. Drain the tank, try to make sure nothing will fall or break the glass during shipping. Anything heavy like wood/rock, then you need to move that separately from the fish and the plants. Keep things wet that you can, especially filter media. Apart from that, just move things and then you'll be fine. If you need any more detailed explanations or things don't make sense please feel free to ask.

argues with amazon support about weird products not arriving unused / complete. (so annoying that support chat is a daily convo sometimes.) swapped out the spraybar from being on end to being across the back of the tan. I spent about ~2 hours (probably less) sewing together the plastic mesh for the plant wall in the back of the tank. most of it ended up towards the filter intake and it was time to get things fixed. I see the shrimp enjoying the new surfaces on the back of the tank and that's awesome. I saw the blue dude and he was mighty blue! I hope one day I'll see baby shrimp out of the culls, but time will tell.

Same exact thought. especially with the wood! I wish I was local.

I wanted to share this for the sake of future enjoyment in your tanks. Filipe is/was an amazing person and this was one of the final tanks he got to enjoy. He has 3-4 videos on this set-up in particular that he put in the kitchen for his wife. Very fun to follow along and see the progression. Tribute video, highly recommended.

I do giggle when they are using an Xbox kinect camera. Not sure why that is remotely useful at all. Very good points!

Welcome back of sorts. I would add to the list of things you might enjoy as a Bolivian ram (single fish in a tank like a Betta) or something like white clouds. I just wanted to mention then as you might see something you enjoy in those fish as well. I think towels are a great way to handle floors in that situation. It's definitely not a matter of what could be spilled, but when and how to best handle it. Have a wet dry vac on hand easily accessible to the tank if anything major happens. Beyond that, use towels on things and you can. Always run a circulation fan in the room to dry things out if anything spills. They do have waterproof rugs for things like bathrooms. Potentially find a nice one that fits the tank area, encourages sitting and viewing the tank as well, and then when anything does flood slightly the rug will help to absorb a lot of that water and can be moved outside to dry right away.

That's awesome. It's worth checking out as a show. As you mentioned. Things may or may not be going on behind the scenes and editors have a lot of power there. I enjoyed it. It's probably 4-8 episodes. Nothing crazy long. Just a Netflix thing.

It definitely depends! Sometimes you might be feeding frozen to a section of the tank and feeding another food to the other space on the tank. Some frozen foods float, some sink, and some like to sort of drift around the water column. Yes. This is my normal method. I don't feed 2+ times a day. I will feed once a day, maybe even every other day sometimes... If they aren't showing real interest in food. Sometimes I can feed morning and night and I will use that to condition the fish for breeding in particular. There's a few ways to view it. Something like bloodworms I've had issues feeding too often and causing some internal bloating and issues in the fish that way. Brine shrimp I think you can probably feed it as often as you wish. When I was trying to feed frozen very often I would do something like 40-60% of the meals from the week with frozen. The big thing is to make sure it's being eaten and that the fish are getting healthy, nutritionally balanced food. I think the more we learn, the real advice has became to choose a handful of good foods and to rotate. So, let's look at a typical week and I'll give you an idea of two methods for feeding that might work for what you're trying to do. Method 1: light-normal feeding supplemented with frozen Day 1: normal dry food (AM+PM) Day 2: frozen food day. One food AM, one food PM or a blend once a day. (It's ok if not all the fish eat during both meals due to preference) Day 3: normal dry food Day 4: normal dry food Day 5: frozen food day Day 6: normal dry food Day 7: normal dry food Method 2: "power feeding" for breeding Day 1-7 (AM): Frozen food mix or feeding in a rhythm. Supplement with any Targeted foods like algae wafers if need be. (Rhythm being, 2 days of brine, then 1-2 days of worms, etc.) Day 1-7 (PM): Dry food or gel food overnight You can add a rest day every 3-4 days here too. The main thing is to make sure the fish are really eating the frozen food and to avoid overfeeding/excess rotten food in the tank. It'll be interesting to hear everyone else's schedules and methods, please share if you have one!

That's awesome, congrats @TeeJay. For the Halloween spirit I have to nudge you or ask you about a show on Netflix. "28 days haunted." For the corydoras, one of my favorite things is having big plants and you see their behavior. You know exactly what's going on and you get to learn their "spots". It's just one of those fun little things where you get to understand them in a different way and it's interesting to see them use their instincts! The black corydoras I haven't figured out. The pandas liked dark sections/caves under wood and then specifically under anubias coffeefolia leaves. Floating anubias they tended to like too.

That's awesome. 🙂 Does it say at all the company website or anything for someone who stumbles upon this in future?

Yeah exactly. And because it's not really a highly researched medication, but a botanical, it's a bit of an unknown what will and won't be taken out by the product. I would recommend sending a DM to @Chick-In-Of-TheSeaand going through the method and experience used. There was a bit of a back and forth and lessons learned from treatment. She was talking with Marks shrimp tanks as well about some of the dosing as well. https://aquariumshrimpkeeping.com/how-to-get-rid-of-planaria-and-hydra-with-no-planaria/ One major caveat I will say is that each line of shrimp is unique and different. Each color from the same breeder even, can have different genetic strengths. If you have some that seem to be like mine.... A big water change won't necessarily be a major issue. I get into trouble when it's a lot of water changes back to back or too often. I have heard of others who are very much petrified to change water or even change more than 10% at a time. A good balance from my experience is that 30-50% range. Run the meds, water change preferably dripping it back in, and then run carbon for two weeks. Use a HoB if you can for this with a protected/covered intake to keep shrimp out. (Think marina slim, aqueon quietflow, or even a tidal 35 wrapped to the hills in stocking mesh). Fluval spec sells very fine prefilter sponges. After about 14 days. Repeat meds or repeat your water change and swap out the carbon. That is how I would handle it with my colony.

Parts are here. Thank you to UNS we have a nicely secure pipe!