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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    It's just your basic blue aquarium gravel. It's tumbled.
  2. nabokovfan87
    Aquaclear filtration is known to have this issue. You can also add something heavy to the lid to help. It's a fluval issue, yes. It is also an aqua clear issue that's been there forever. It's just human nature honestly. Some frequencies bother some people more than others.
  3. nabokovfan87
    Yes gravel is "fine" in the sense that it shouldn't do them a plethora of harm. That being said there are things you can do to make their (and your) life a bit easier. I would highly recommend a feeding dish of some kind or a section of the tank with finer substrate that contacts for them to eat off. The other thing to note is to just keep an eye out for crush damage on their barbels. If those get damaged due to trying to dig through some pretty heavy substrate, then you may have a situation where that exposes them to bacterial or fungal infections as a result. Again, I mention this as something to monitor. It is also not a good idea to keep them on bare bottom tanks because it has been reported to have a similar affect.
  4. nabokovfan87
    Send me some photos of what you're looking at in DM and what everything is set to and I'll help program it. We'll get it sorted for you!
  5. nabokovfan87
    Just give it time. Dechlorinator does have a smell to it as well. you can let it air dry and the bleach will dissipate, re-soak it, etc. Lava rock has the pores, so worst case it's just a matter of waiting. Add an airstone to help move water or use something to rotate the rocks around in the bucket and all the internal particles will release themselves after a few rolls.
  6. nabokovfan87
    sweet. please let me know what you think of it!
  7. nabokovfan87
    Nope! It's right by all of those jumping great white sharks.
  8. nabokovfan87
    all of the rocks shown are going to have a vinegar reaction. I would argue the ones on the right have been soaked in vinegar or have been acid washed to remove some of the minerals and clean up the "shine". That is why those rocks have that style of finish. The normal "whitish grey" on the LFS rocks is very much normal and safe! There isn't a concern of whether or not these rocks are safe to use, they absolutely are. If you take all of these rocks and put them in a 1G tank, I would encourage verifying the hardness is fine after the end of the week. If they are going into a 40G tank or larger it's not going to do much at all. Just as a broad example... this is a "good amount" of rock. This is when you really have to monitor how drastic of an impact the rock has on the tank. For your use case, those minerals feed the plant. If you're planning to put in a bunch of fish that require low PH or blackwater conditions, that would be counter intuitive, but there are plenty of fish that do not mind some minerals in the water. Hopefully this helps, please feel free to ask any questions. If you have any concerns at all, toss all the rocks into a bucket of water and test the KH/GH every day for a week. It gives you an idea of what you're dealing with!
  9. nabokovfan87
    I don't think it's old tank syndrome at all, I was simply asking to verify parameters if it is causing some form of burn or external response on the fish. i.e. low oxygenation (I understand the tank has two HoBs), temperature, and PH questions. GH being lower.... I don't know what that value is. I don't have a good source for rainbowfish parameters. Here's another: https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/pseudomugil-furcatus/ I post those links and parameters simply because I personally want to understand the needs better of the fish! I've heard of something like tank length as a major stress factor for species that like to move back and forth a lot. Something like a RTBS in a tank that isn't long, but is tall for instance, could cause some stress response on that fish in question. I don't know if that is what is going on here. I see the clamped fin on top, which could just be a photo thing as well as the eye issue, which we've noted to treat with the meds. There is a redness on the body which could purely be stress and water related or could be a sign of external discomfort. It's difficult to say one specific reason here. If you enjoy the fish, let's get them healthy. If you don't, then potentially sending that fish with your friend may be the best move. It's entirely up to you. I don't think only having 2-3 fish of the same species is the cause of stress here. That is just what my gut tells me.
  10. nabokovfan87
    Some stems, but that plant you have will do fine with just about any conditions. The main thing I would set the tank / light for is the lilly and the anubias. I would start at something like 30-50%. Let's see what @Chick-In-Of-TheSea has in a similar setup and use that as a guide as well. What size is your tank?
  11. nabokovfan87
    It's going to depend on the plants in a lot of cases. Ultimately, 4-8 hours is the normal window. I would run it at 6 and call that good. If you have blue shrimp, you can add a 1-2 hour "color period" where you give them blue light using the night mode and then that should boost their coloration over time. I run pinkish lights for my red shrimp. This all depends on the plants and placement of things, tank height. Just for the sake of clarity let me look back and then try to figure out what we're dealing with. @Chick-In-Of-TheSea How do you have your light set for your plants? What height tank too would be helpful!
  12. nabokovfan87
    When the tank looks that good.... I don't blame you.
  13. nabokovfan87
    ORD. Congratulations though! It's either "another batch" for some hobbyists or it's the most amazing thing you get to see over and over. I really enjoy seeing nature do it's thing.
  14. nabokovfan87
    Crystal River is slightly smaller than torpedo beach, but I think they are extremely similar. I have crystal river in one tank, planning to swap out the moonlight sand on another with torpedo beach! Keep in mind that is simply a range. Overall average size is pretty significantly different. The moonlight I would argue on average is a lot closer to the 0.25mm and the others are a lot closer to that 1.0mm in consistency.
  15. nabokovfan87
    It's very very very very very fine. So it's almost always in the after column when you're working on the tank. I would recommend changing it for the crystal river or torpedo beach if you want the white sand visual. So much easier to work with, still very fine to the eye and it is something that won't damage equipment in the tank.
  16. nabokovfan87
    There might be a type of Tupperware that fits. Worst comes to it, hand catch the fish and move it out of the tank into a container outside the tank so you can easily move it.
  17. nabokovfan87
    Very fun! Congratulations.
  18. nabokovfan87
    I'm just warning you, I'm very excited to see all the barbs and fish in the tank! I found a picture of my SAEs being lazy whales.
  19. nabokovfan87
    Check out "mountain stone" which is sort of the common name for grey stuffs. There is also rhino stone, elephant skin stone, and a variety of other "bins" that grey stones get used for. Oh no..... Did you already open thos sand? Agreed and the confusion is real! Essentially, those bands of white minerals is all you really have to be concerned with. That's the buffering part that impacts KH.
  20. nabokovfan87
    I would love for the Co-op to switch from the craziness of PSO and sell the PSE version of the plant. (erectus) it's just a bit less overbearing! When I did the same thing my tank was in the middle of revolting on me, crashed, and all the plants died on me except the Anubias. I've learned a lot since then, controlling PSO from trying to turn into a tree is not a skill I have yet though! 😂
  21. nabokovfan87
    If you can, try to give the gravel a good siphon. Maybe there's just too many organics in there as well causing a bit of stress. (For clarity, what I'm seeing could just be a shadow on the tank) I would do the same thing mentioned above, add some botanicals, add some air+salt to try to perk up the fish (1/4 cup per 10G) and then go through the bacterial treatment. What is the temp on this tank?
  22. nabokovfan87
    @laffer given the severity, I'd definitely follow up with a second round. It's a good sign that they are getting better though! 🙂 Given the temp, add in some aeration if possible as well. Try to float some bottles that arr 3/4 full of frozen water during the hotter days. Definitely verify that heater as well! (check the temp of it, they are extremely common to get stuck running very hot).
  23. nabokovfan87
    out of curiosity, what is the substrate? is PH ok?
  24. nabokovfan87
    Awesome news. Amazing work as always Colu! Wooot! 🙂
  25. nabokovfan87
    It's a bit of difficult picture to process given that it's at this angle. More photos would be helpful if possible. Given what we see it looks like a case of popeye. There's a few steps to take and any/all of them will benefit the situation. 1. Try to keep up with maintenance and water changes. Verify the filters are working and that your temp is good for all of the fish in the tank. 2. Siphon well and just verify things aren't really dirty. Get the tank clean, get the filters clean, and do a good healthy water change. (50%). 3. If you can locate some, add some botanicals to the tank, indian almond leaves (also called catappa leaves, usually sold for bettas) or try to find some alder cones. All of those might be at the big box store around or near where they have the betta fish or tank additives. 4. At this point you want to treat for a bacterial issue. Popeye can often be caused by a bacterial disease and you'd use maracyn to treat that. Follow the directions on the box. If you only see this one single fish with issues, it would make sense to move that fish to a QT tank. 5. Add oxygenation via an air stone. This helps the fish in so many ways. It's getting warmer and it's likely adding a little stress this time of year for some tanks. 6. Consider aquarium salt as well. This helps in a variety of ways and also can help with fungal issues. The normal dose would be 1/3-cup per 10G, this is "level 2" on the co-op blog salt article. If you have plants, be warned some plants have a hard time with salt. You can use ich-x in lieu of salt as well, see the note at the end of the post please. 7. after 1 week of treatment, give the fish a week to recover and keep up with good water parameters. You can re-post an update or proceed with a second treatment. It will likely take a minimum of two. on the left fin there, right? I see that. Yeah, so I would try to move the fish and get some salt (or dose the tank at risk of harming the plants) At minimum---> Add air, botanicals, ich-x, maracyn treatment. Follow the directions on the maracyn box and when you do a water change do a 50% change and proceed with dosing both meds again. Ich-x directions gives you a minimum water change, you'll be over that and safe. the maracyn box gives you the schedule. yep, right on track. Add air, botanicals, and the two meds you mentioned as well. Verify everything is working properly. You should not experience a crash and you may uncover a reason for any sort of stress on the fish. Absolutely clean the filters! 🙂
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