dasaltemelosguy

You raise some really interesting points. The strength of the molecular bonds tends to be related to the 'activity level' of the element. For example, oxygen is mildly active and so it slowly corrodes/oxidizes whereas chlorine is violently active and caustic. When an element is highly active, it forms bonds that are stronger and more difficult to break/reverse. So, you need more power to do so. So, your point about ammonia makes sense as of the big 3 in the cycle, it's the only one with hydrogen which is much more active than oxygen or nitrogen. In fact, at the end are some notes on the power used. It was during the ammonia formation at Hour-5 when it drew the most power! Thanks for raising this point.

That's really fascinating. Literally all of these points, the transference of nutrients, the reduction of toxins, the chelating, all would be affected by electricity. Perhaps strongly. I don't know enough about the biology, but it truly makes sense chemically. Particularly the chelating as that can be done with electricity. I've converted insoluble iron to bioavailable iron using electrolysis when we were doing some growth tests. I'm old and I've never heard of The Krib! That's a great find, thank you. You're right. there's a few of them. All similar to the TwinStar device. I picked one up when we began testing technologies that would ultimately become Reverse Respiration. I didn't know how pests would react to electrolysis and these devices were already built so I bought one. It's very gentle though. I remember seeing pest snails literally walk across the device right through the bubbles!

Maybe you should try GloFish! 🤣

Originally, I wasn’t going to post this experiment because although the end result was as expected, the process was like fumigating your house by burning it down! The article below is unfinished, but the results were truly interesting, nonetheless. So, despite that it didn’t work, I thought you might like to see what happened… Inverse Cycling The Electrolysis of Nitrates Most likely, there’s not a person here that is unfamiliar with cycling their aquarium and the nurturing of the beneficial bacteria to effect this. But what’s actually occurring depends upon the scale we’re viewing it from. The process of reducing ammonia and nitrite to nitrates is, on a microscopic level, a biological event. If we look closer, as ammonia reduces to nitrite and nitrite reduces to nitrate, it’s a molecular event. But intrinsically, it’s all a nuclear event. All of the beneficial bacteria feeding and the subsequent reduction of ammonia and nitrite to nitrates is really just electrons being shuffled around to effect change. The force that accomplishes this is an electron’s attraction or repulsion towards other atomic particles. To that end, we can apply a greater force with externally applied electrons in the form of electricity to reverse their natural reactions. When performed in a liquid, this is known as Electrolysis. Electrolysis inserts electrons directly into the water via electricity. As such, you may elect to employ much more power than the electron bonds in the molecules themselves have. When there’s more electronic force than the molecules have, it can split them apart. To that end, water (H2/O) splits into Hydrogen and Oxygen, Ammonia (N/H3) splits into Nitrogen and Hydrogen, and Nitrites (N/O2) and Nitrates (N/O3) split into Nitrogen and Oxygen. * Electrolysis is commonly performed on wastewater, especially where high nitrates are a problem. These are just some of many such examples: Recent development of electrochemical nitrate reduction to ammonia: A mini review - ScienceDirect Electrochemical reduction of nitrate ion on various cathodes – reaction kinetics on bronze cathode | SpringerLink Restoring the Nitrogen Cycle by Electrochemical Reduction of Nitrate: Progress and Prospects - Zeng - 2020 - Small Methods - Wiley Online Library High-Performance Electrochemical Nitrate Reduction to Ammonia under Ambient Conditions Using a FeOOH Nanorod Catalyst | ACS Applied Materials & Interfaces Electrocatalytic reduction of nitrate: Fundamentals to full-scale water treatment applications - ScienceDirect * With simple home electrolysis devices like these above, we can electrify the water, infusing it with electrons to remove Hydrogen, Oxygen, and Nitrogen from the nitrates, nitrites and ammonia. The goal being a simple plug & play device and the nitrates slowly vanish. And indeed, they did just that. As you’ll see below in images of water tests over a 7-day period, by Day-7, it removed 100% of the nitrates, nitrites and ammonia from the water using only electricity. “The Universe Laughs While We Make Plans” This process is roughly the opposite of what the beneficial bacteria do when converting ammonia and nitrites to nitrates, so it seemed like a logical direction to remove nitrates, would be to reverse it. But what I failed to consider is we are reversing the entire cycle. So, nitrates are first converted back to nitrites, and nitrites are first converted back to ammonia (as it simultaneously splits the water for Hydrogen) BEFORE they’re all eventually removed! Ultimately the ammonia becomes nitrogen and hydrogen gas and leaves the water but there’s a period of several days where there’s enormous amounts of nitrites and ammonia before they all finally vanish. Obviously, this completely negates any use with live fish present! I suppose it could be used to remove ammonia, nitrites and nitrates from stored water, but it was my hope that it could be simply inserted into a living tank, and we’d see the nitrates slowly drop… What follows are some unretouched images of the water tests over a 7-day period during the electrolysis of nitrates. The starting water had no ammonia, no nitrites, a pH of 8 but nitrates were set at 40PPM. By the end, it has no ammonia, no nitrites, no nitrates and a pH of 7.8…but it’s a very toxic path to success: pH = 8, NH3 = 0, NO2 = 0, NO3 = 40 pH = 8, NH3 = 0.5, NO2 = 0.25, NO3 = 40 pH = 8, NH3 = 0.5, NO2 = 0.25, NO3 = 40 pH = 8.2, NH3 = 2, NO2 = 0.25, NO3 = 40 pH = 8.2, NH3 = 8, NO2 = 1, NO3 = 30 pH = 8.4, NH3 = 6, NO2 = 2, NO3 = 20 pH = 8.4, NH3 = 4, NO2 = 0.25, NO3 = 15 pH = 8.4, NH3 = 2, NO2 = 0, NO3 = 5 pH = 8.4, NH3 = 1.5, NO2 = 0, NO3 = 0 pH = 8.4, NH3 = 0.75, NO2 = 0, NO3 = 0 pH = 7.8, NH3 = 0, NO2 = 0, NO3 = 0 A minor note: The process of electrolysis generates some heat and as such, the water varied in temperature widely. It was during this process I noticed a minor peculiarity about the API Liquid Test Kit. The results vary slightly with the water temperature. Of the four primary tests, pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, all display about 5% darker per +10*. This color drift/temperature is strongest with pH. Check out the same water tested at 75*and 85*: Add 5% to the reading per 10*F increase. * So, I ended it here and didn’t polish up the images or post citations because well, it didn’t work! But I thought some might find it interesting! Notes: Hours 1-10 = 250ma, 100* Hours 11-14 = 800ma, 120* Hours 15-19 = 350ma, 107* Hours 20-72 = 150ma, 103* Hours 73-144 = 50ma, 90*

Hi, @OriginalRainbowfish,welcome to the forum! We did not test everything you cited but I’ll try to address your questions. Bacteria We did not test for antiseptic qualities aside from that we had seen no bacteria in the solutions after treatments. However, most of the soda companies have studied this in great detail. There are volumes of data on this but in brief, they found only two forms of bacteria that survived the pH of seltzer, an acetic acid based and a lactic acid-based species as well as some yeasts. Bacteria_Control_in_Soft_Drink_Production (criticalprocess.com) CO2 vs Pressure v Time I believe @Andy's Fish Den, beginning on Page 15 in this thread tested something akin to what you’re describing by filling a sealed aquarium with CO2 and found it was not lethal to snails (please correct me if I’m relaying your findings incorrectly @Andy's Fish Den!). I personally once used Perrier (pH=5.5) and it had no effect either. I don’t think it will be possible to get the pH low enough without pressurization though. Pumping CO2 into the water can never exceed the atmospheric pressure of CO2 (pCO2), at least not for long. And as CO2 solubility is proportional to the atmospheric pCO2, it will be 1X without a pressurized container. Unfortunately, as you won’t be able to infuse the tank with more than 1X pCO2 without first pressurizing it, that limits the solubility of CO2 in water and therefore limits the pH drop to about 5-6. As an example, below is from a study performed at Rutgers’s University where they measured seltzer unopened at 17X atmospheric CO2 or 17X pCO2. Once opened, over the course of several hours it reduces to 3.3X pCO2. Due to a variety of reasons, it more or less stays at 3.3X pCO2 for about 3-4 days. Ich et al There are many encysted parasites of course but insofar as ich is concerned, it’s survival in pH and CO2 levels has been not only been studied but in fact, exploited. You’d unfortunately need a subscription to read this entire study but there’s a summary available from the link. To try to summarize their findings: Ich cannot survive/reproduce in a pH under 5.5, nor can it survive in an anoxic state. Ich requires at least 0.6 PPM of O2 in the water and there’s literally 0PPM of O2 in seltzer. In fact, what’s really cool in this study below is they actually treated an entire lake full of carp for a massive ich outbreak simply by slowly reducing the pH! They very slowly (2 weeks) acclimated the fish to a pH of only 4. When the pH reached somewhere between 4-5, in just 1 hour, the ich stopped reproducing and became infertile! Effects of pH on free-living stages of a Nordic strain of the economically important freshwater fish parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis - ScienceDirect BTW, ALL of these variables above assume no heat nor agitation so that can alter the data. Hope this helps.

My betta did exactly what @xXInkedPhoenixX and @Colu suggested insofar as flaring was concerned too. He was extremely active and tore fins all the time. The pothos toxin can't leach into the water unless the pH is below 4.5 so they're probably correct. Poison Pothos! - Plants, Algae, and Fertilizers - C.A.R.E.

Hi, @Cinnebuns , These are snail eggs before and after 30 minutes of RR. The top image is the untreated, live egg. That sole feature is the embryo. There's links to live videos of this inside of the article where you may see the embryo moving around the inside of the shell. This egg saw 30 minutes of RR. In the videos you'll see it's motionless and dead. So far, we saw no hatching of eggs or insects after RR, treatments, even after months. We also saw no bacteria survive but we didn't test this enough yet to be definitive. I hope this helps.

If they like it, it would be in Amazonas. I have to try to reduce its size from 40 pages to 5 though! 🪓

Hi, @Sashi, this is the article that @Colu is referring to when he was helping me with an aggressive, fast-moving infection: It's too small a sample to be conclusive but it did indicate a high probability of at least partial success. In addition, @Odd Duck describes similar sonotherapy techniques performed on reptiles, later in the thread. In my very limited experience, the Epsom salt and sonotherapy combination largely worked but as @Odd Duck makes note of, swim bladder may have many causes beyond impaction. Still, it can't hurt, and I'm still confused but very interested by the weird calm that came over the tank when applying sonotherapy. To that end, also in that thread, @boylesdowntothis uncovered an article where using the same sounds in the ocean increased populations of reefs. It's so non-invasive, it may be worth a try. This Bluetooth loudspeaker will work but any Bluetooth rated IP7 or higher will works as well. Free test tones are all over YouTube. Good luck. Amazon.com: Bluetooth Speaker, Tribit XSound Go Speaker with 16W Loud Sound & Deeper Bass, 24H Playtime, IPX7 Waterproof, Bluetooth 5.0 TWS Pairing Portable Wireless Speaker for Home, Outdoor (Upgraded) : Electronics

He loves to dig. But he finally hit bottom. He's been doing this for THREE DAYS: I had to fill it in just to get him to start swimming again! But he's such an interesting creature. Not relevant, I added this for no reason except that they're pretty!

@Odd Duck, Looks like you're right!

That's exactly how I saw it as well. Aluminum was the only metal with more chemical attraction than Magnesium in this environment and to add to the confusion, Aluminum and Magnesium flame tests are very difficult to tell apart as they both exhibit white flames in these tests. However, in my (very) limited understanding of the metabolism of most algae, Aluminum didn't seem to have nearly the importance, if any, as Magnesium to the survival of algae. Thanks so much as your confirming this improves the likelihood that the hypothesis is correct. It almost seemed that algae acted more as an Aluminum scavenger rather than it being an important component of its metabolic process so, it appears there is a much higher probability of it being the Magnesium stripped from the algae. When I was looking into this, I even saw a study where Aluminum powder was introduced into the Cuyahoga River as an algicide! Calcium attraction as shown in the new chart also seemed highly probable, but Calcium would present a strong, orange flame yet it barely, if at all showed up in the flame tests, so it looks like the ball went back into Magnesium's court.

Hi Everyone, I just wanted to mention that we're in the process of editing down Reverse Respiration to hopefully see formal publication. In doing so and revisiting my notes, I found a chapter I had written on how Reverse Respiration destroys algae using Einstein's earliest equations. In trying to keep this brief (believe it or not!), the current version was incomplete and not well explained. As it turns out, the original I just found was quite a bit better and far more comprehensive in explaining Reverse Respiration's algicidal effects. If you have a moment, please go to Page 1 and scroll down to the Relativity section entitled "Nothing and Something Create Each Other" to see the new content. I think it's a more lucid description of how this whole thing works. I hope you like it.

Actually, I think you're probably spot-on. As you said, he's a hybrid...of something. In one shot above you can see he's even developing a nuchal hump so who knows what he is...aside from a mutt! Thanks!

I was just beginning in fishkeeping at the time and made many classic neophyte mistakes. One of which was not researching how large these fish might become! So, until I learned a bit more, I fed them nothing special, Hikari, Tetra, whatever was on a big box store shelf. All 4 of the parrots were together with that oscar and all ate the same stuff. Eventually I learned a bit more and @Guppysnail helped me out tremendously with advice and she even sent me a wide variety of extremely high-quality foods. I did notice notable improvements in energy and color after the nutritional improvements from these but insofar as size alone, he was already this massive even on the 'junk foods' I gave him in my ignorance. Three of the parrots and the oscar grew to large but not atypical sizes (6" and 14"-ish). This one parrot is so much larger than the others, I began to wonder if he's a different variety, but I know very little about them. As you can see in the video, he's very aggressive and the other parrots he grew up with are not. His aggression never amounts to much as like the smaller parrots, he can't fully close his mouth to get in a good bite! To be honest, aside from over filtration, (it's a 125G with a filter turnover of 2000GPH) and so many emergent plants the nitrates virtually never rise above 10PPM, given my slow learning curve, I doubt I've done much in an optimal manner. So, I thought perhaps a King Kong parrot slipped into the lot? I see pictures of King Kongs and he doesn't look exactly like them. Also, I've read they can fully close their mouths unlike blood parrots. But I'm no expert so I thought I'd see if anyone knew what he is!

About 3 years ago I bought four baby Blood Parrots and my Oscar at a local PetSmart. They were all under an inch long then. Up to about Year-2, all of the parrots grew to 5"-6" in length. Over the past year (Year-3), one parrot started growing again at a very accelerated rate. Just this one parrot now measures over 9" head to tail! Below are some shots of him. Would you guys know if somehow, I have one King Kong Parrot...or is he just really fat?! For scale, the Oscar is almost 15" long. There’s a 40 second video of the parrot to see his movements too: He's grown easily another inch since the video was shot. I was under the impression, perhaps mistakenly, that King Kongs can close their mouths whereas these guys, Fatso included cannot. But I have no idea how to tell! Thanks everyone.

A warning though. There may be side effects:

It's such a cool idea, I hate to see you abandon it too! It's really hard to make silicone seal when it is used for anchorage, especially under pressure as it's not very strong and flexes and cracks. I don't know if any of this stuff will help but there's a small industry built around designing marijuana bongs out of mason jars. Almost any configuration imaginable has been created. Some are even stainless steel with threaded hose fittings. The JarPipe has a large, plastic center pipe that looks similar to what you're doing and a threaded mouthpiece that could be used as-is or reversed to attach the small hose: Mason Jar Water pipe Kit! | eBay These people make a threaded metal top for fermenting in a mason jar: Wide Mouth Canning Jar Lid with Half Coupling. NorCal Brewing Solutions This one is a hookah, so it comes with flexible hoses and an internal bubbler that really resembles an aquarium airstone: Review of the Mason Jar Bong by Glass Lung (The Stoned Mason) — CHRONIC CRAFTER (thechroniccrafter.com) And this one is high-end stuff. All polished metal with threaded connectors and a variety of fittings. It's over $100 though! Mason Jar Water Pipe – Ember&Ash (emberandashproducts.com) These links are to downloads of hundreds of mason jar tops and pipe fittings for 3D printing, and most are free. I see a couple right in the beginning that may work for you. Officially, the following are known as "Highdeas"! 😎 🤣 mason jar bong 3D printing models | Mito3D ▷ mason jar bong 3d models 【 STLFinder 】 Free STL file New 2021 Mason Jar Bong Lid・Design to download and 3D print・Cults (cults3d.com) Bong for Mason Jar 3D model 3D printable | CGTrader Mason Jar Bong Lid (mybuckytop.com)

In my limited experience that's nothing to worry about. My GBRs and Electric Blue Acaras make sort chases, 8"-12" all the time, but it's never gone beyond that. As @Guppysnail said, if there's no signs of stress, signs you'd think might cause long term health issues, they adapt to each other. My severums poke and also make short chases, as you described but I've never had an injury. I had two notable exceptions to this though. My sojourn with African cichlids was nightmarish. They would form packs and relentlessly target an individual to death, usually at night, until that eventually whittled down to a dominant one. This would change periodically, and new targets would emerge. Apparently, they weren't dithered well enough, and I know the tank I had was too small. I seemed to be rehoming them monthly until I rehomed them all! I had some success with time-outs too, but it was always short-lived. Sight blocks and rearrangements were more successful for me. A better example of them adapting to each other was my Oscar tank. He is extremely aggressive and tolerates almost no other fish, but he was dithered with a school of silver dollars. He still chases them, but they clearly don't care. He chases them to the ends of the tank and seems to lose interest. The dithers resume and return to wherever they wish and seem unfazed. It's been three years without an issue. Please ignore the video title, this video was made to help ID a parrot fish type-(40 Seconds).

@Guppysnail has far more experience than I do with a large variety of plants, but I can add a little something for what it's worth. Early on I treated Val spiralis and indeed they completely melted but all of them did grow back. I have no experience with them beyond that though. @John HenryI did want to mention that if the goal is only disinfection and not as an algicide, we did not find any surviving pests or viable eggs after only 30-minute treatments. It's the algicidal effects that take much longer as it's asphyxiation with the pests but it's a chemical reaction time for the algae. Thanks for the input.

@Biotope Biologist, thank you so much for expressing this in such a constructive manner as I have exactly the same sentiments, but words failed me. Admittedly, I'm no fan of aquariumscience's absolutism or sensationalist style, but that alone would not exclude him as an information source. What does exclude him as such IMO is so much on the site is simply incorrect. I too would STRONGLY recommend that ANY information gotten from that site be VERIFIED.

Hi @Karen B., I'm not familiar with the local brands in your area but upon searching, I did see that some of the larger brands are widely available in French Canada. I see, Canada Dry and Polar brand seltzers are available, and Schweppes Club Soda seems to be as well. Any club soda will work too. I see Low Sodium club sodas available as well which removes the salt albeit it's a minor amount in any club soda. As @Guppysnail said, avoid any that call themselves mineral waters or sparkling waters as their carbonation is too low.

Hi, just a thought but if you wanted the egg crate to remain below the rim, you could place magnets in the corners and centers to act as "shelf pins" if you will. So, it would be very simple to just lift the crate out and drop it back in place it as needed. I hang all of my driftwood from the top lids with magnets. Almost any neodymium magnets strong enough would work, and they come in a myriad of shapes, sizes and strengths. You won't need any adhesive or mechanical supports. The inner and outer magnet hold each other in place through the glass and they're quite strong and don't drift easily. Also waterproof. This is one possibility, good luck: Waterproof Neodymium Bar Magnets with Epoxy Coating, Powerful Permanent Rare Earth Magnets, with Double-Sided Adhesive - 60 x 10 x 3mm, Pack of 12: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

@Knew tooth is, we were (especially me) surprised that Marimo's were remarkably resistant to RR but @Guppysnail 's testing on timing for RR's algicidal effects pretty much applied to most of the other types of algae. I felt I needed to know if Marimo's had some kind of immunity or were simply denser. I put them through 4 consecutive RR treatments before I saw any cellular damage in the Marimo's. They appeared ragged and paler after 4 days. A few browned and died and a few recovered. Ironically Marimo's took to seltzer much the same way as aquarium plants. one RR round and they became greener and stiffer and under a microscope, we saw a bizarre increase in the chloroplast count which still confounds me. I saw no damage at all until they were soaked 4X or 96 hours. @Odd Duck and @Guppysnail have much more experience with RR as an algicide than I do but I think (please correct me if I'm wrong here guys) that they found no algae forms yet that would survive 2+ RR treatments? As a tangential note, we are not alone! The first group tested Marimo's in carbonated water of varying strengths in an attempt to eliminate the infamous zebra mussel. Pesticides and poisons were only partially successful. I assume this to be the protective ability of the mussel, not unlike our experiences with MTS, but as we saw with MTS, the seltzer pressure overcomes this, and they saw 100% efficacy in extermination of zebras after 96 hours: Use of carbon dioxide in zebra mussel (Dreissena polymorpha) control and safety to a native freshwater mussel And much less scientific but telling as these people don't seem to know why it works but they soak their Marimo's in club soda because they say it makes them grow better, asserting "a photosynthetic boost": Using Club Soda (CO2) to Help Boost Marimo Photosynthesis - MossBall.com Either way, it seems very safe to apply 2-3 RR treatments on Marimo's and that should eliminate the unwanted algae. Again guys, jump in if I'm wrong as I've not done as much testing on algae as you have.