test.tin

I think you'll be more than fine, honey gouramis tend to be on the peaceful side.

I honestly think you are gonna be fine adding them to your main tank. As Cory mentioned on some past livestreams, shrimp food actually has copper in them. Small amounts of copper is totally safe for shrimp and is needed. Kind of like how water is essential for humans, yet drinking excessive amount of it can be fatal. Cherry shrimps are very hardy so I don't think you're gonna have much to worry about. When you get them, i would slowly drip acclimate them with water from your main tank. Do that for about an hour, let them get used to your water and temperature.

I personally prefer to take the plants out of the black pot and remove the rockwool that it comes with. I like to do that because you can separate the plants into smaller portions to spread around your tank. The dwarf sag is a carpeting plant, so having different points where it can spread can help achieve a carpet faster than just one giant area.

Could be your tap water that smells. Or residue that was left inside the tank. Try adding seachem purigen into your filter, purigen is like activated carbon but wont remove fertilizers. Nitrites being high is a normal part of tank cycling. Your ammonia and nitrites will be going up and down, once it stabilize at 0ppm, your tank is done cycling.

I love how oddly specific those smells are, gave me a good chuckle

Like Seized said, the plant isn't getting enough light. As the stem plant grow taller and taller, the top leaves block off light from the remaining portion of the stem. Causing the stem to be bare on the lower portion and only leaves up top. Your harder to grow ground plants might be doing fine, but they might not be shading itself out like the stem plant is doing. I would recommend you increase light intensity/bring the light down some more.

I wouldn't worry about temperature tbh. I have embers in my tank and I run no heater. My tank dips to 70f at night and to about 76f during the day. And I don't think shock from water change is the culprit either. When I do my water change, I do 50% and pretty much just dump my bucket of new water into my tank through a colander. Although the temp matches, the quick fill of water should shock them and cause them to die, but they haven't. I think the most likely cause Is that your tank couldn't handle the addition of the 20 new fish. Your tank might have been cycled but only for the amount of waste/living things in the tank. Adding the 20 fish at once could have been too much for the tank to handle biologically. Prob causing spikes in ammonia/nitrites. As for recommendations, I say try doing more frequent and larger volume of water change. This can help get rid of the spikes in ammonia and nitrite until the beneficial bacteria in your tank can handle the additional waste. Second recommendation is hopefully, your tank will stabilize and be able to handle the remaining embers. At that point, don't go buying more to add in. Let the tank continue to mature and slowly add more embers if you like.

One possibility could be that adding 6 rams was too much for your system to handle. At 2 months, your tank could've been cycled but only for the amount of fish that you have. Adding 6 fish at once could've caused a spike in ammonia or nitrite. It might have not shown up when you tested your water because it can fluctuate. Do you have live plants in your tank? If you don't have live plants, having 20-40 ppm of nitrates is pretty high. I know GBR tend to be sensitive towards water quality. I know you said you do a water change every 3 days, but how much are you changing? You quarantine tank might not be able to biologically handle 6 rams too. I would test the main tank periodically to make sure that it is fully cycle and isn't fluctuating for ammonia, and test the quarantine tank too. Try adding fewer fish in next time as it'll let you beneficial bacteria to catch up to the extra waste.

You can try using mangroves. I've seen many saltwater tanks with mangroves growing out of them, so they can definitely handle the salt. It might not be the best as a in tank plant, you can't fully submerged the plant, but it it will help with excess nutrients.

I think one thing you can try doing is to cut back on dosing easy green. From what I could gather from your profile picture, majority of your plants are root feeders. I would personally cut back on the easy green and let the plants get nutrients by the root tabs. Maybe aim to be at under 20ppm, maybe even less for nitrate. The algae won't be able to access the nutrients from the root tabs, but can easily use the fertilizer in the water column. Also, if you have some leaves that are just too covered in algae, I would recommend to just trim/cut that leave off. That way the plant can use that energy to grow new healthy leaves, instead of trying to repair that one.

Hello! I always take them out of the black pot and the rockwool. And separate them into portions for planting. I would add root tabs as your planting them, makes it easier since you're already in there. The plants wont be able to access it just yet, because their root structures aren't fully settled in yet, they will be using their reserved nutrients or nutrients gather by their leaves. But once established, they will start feeding from the root tabs.

I'm also planning to breed these in the future too, so ill share some of the things I've gathered from researching. I haven't put any of these into practice yet and will be my first time trying breeding too, so definitely take it with a grain of salt. -Colony breeding is possible but could have less yield. Definitely want lots of cover so they don't eat eggs. I would recommend you getting more plants, floating plants, dense amount of moss, etc. -Higher temperature will speed up eggs hatching, faster egg hatching means the fry are bigger and stronger. Temp should be minimum 80F or higher. Faster egg hatch time is anywhere from 10-20 days. -If your water is at a high temp and it takes more than 20 days for them to hatch, sometimes the chemicals in water conditioners can cause the eggs to take longer. Try using aged water or other methods to get rid of chlorine and chloramine. -Have small food ready, I've read conflicting info about the fry being too small for baby brine shrimp. My plan is to have sera micron and ocean nutrition's instant baby brine ready. I only have 2 nano tanks, so hatching baby brine isn't worth it to me. Currently power feeding the adults the instant baby brine so I can differentiate the males and females.

That's awesome. I'm planning to grow mine emersed soon, hopefully ill get some flowers too