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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    TLDR: Found a cull I think this series of photos speaks a few hundred words, if not a thousand. There is good and bad coloration in shrimp and even the best genetics will end up with something like this. As always, of course.... referring to my first question in this journal, the best thing to do is to set yourself up for success if that is specifically a goal. What is really interesting is the techniques I'm using to try to push coloration and seeing the discrepancy this early on in the shrimp lifecycle. This could be a week old even. Normally, per studies you'd only really want to cull after about 60 or 90 days because sometimes it does take that long for the coloration to fully form. Do I really want to wait and see what happens? Do I risk losing the shrimp if this is a trait that is being passed on, meaning the slow starter to color up? I have shrimp that are literally days old and colored up like those in the first photo. There is a hue and a redness as oppose to just the normal clear coloration. If I had the lens I would love to share those photos! That being said, we'll see how the shrimp does in the 75G tank and we will have to try to keep tabs on these culls over time. Some of them did color up. Others definitely didn't! I don't know if this is another shadow blue-red rili shrimp or what exactly we're looking at, but you can see the way the pattern is coming in that it's not quite optimal. Mulberry leaves, birch cones, and food arrived today. I am not adding any botanicals, but the new food seems to be doing really good so far. I will check in tonight and see if it's all gone.
  2. nabokovfan87
    Yeah. I agree. It's like biofilm for the most part and maybe that stagnation is causing things to sit and build up and then end up with that algae/slime forming. It does hurt gas exchange. Whether that matters given the sump oxygenation is tough to say without testing the levels.
  3. nabokovfan87
    I can't imagine it's a major issue. That being said changing things 1 degree every few days is the norm, doing that slight increase over a week should be very minimal and calm enough to allow the fish to acclimate through that time period. Meaning add in the dose to increase it by 1 degree or half of that dose and just wait at least 24 hours and rest your water to see the changes. Then you'd wait a few days before your next adjustment in whichever increment.
  4. nabokovfan87
    I ended up having to get an aquasky as the local shop didn't have the 3.0 for a reasonable price. I didn't have time to order one in and so I ended up using that for a while. I defintely have much more success with the planted 3.0 light over the aquasky and dialing in the colors to look better is a lot easier. The aquasky is overly green in terms of tone. Also, definitely stick with the 36" on that tank! If you're comfortable running a sump, absolutely run a sump! They aren't unpopular, but it's just a situation where it's not the norm due to cost or intimidation of setting one up. You can have a refugium in there for plants and use it for all kinds of things if you wanted to as well. It gets the heaters and other stuff out of the tank too. I love the copper on the lower fin and upper ray of the tail. Very nice photo sir! Fluval E-Series is my go-to. If it's in a sump, probably not the best choice to use that one, but it's entirely up to you. I like the precision and the flow sensor warnings. If you're getting a standard aqueon tank, the versatop lids should be robust and work well for 40G tanks or larger. I love my 75G aqueon lids. Controsoil is great and works well. I saw someone mention it above. In terms of having a sand area (not a cap), I prefer the caribsea crystal river or torpedo beach sands. That pore size is very very easy to clean and you don't end up with sand in the filters nearly as much. There are some places, but due to rules of the forum we can't directly post links here for a lot of places. I'll send you a dm for a nice one! Advantage sump ^^ because you can just use in-line or have a reactor. 🙂 Welcome to the forums!
  5. nabokovfan87
    From Seachem's Website under Prime FAQ: Even if you're doing daily water changes, you would complete those and then after you add in the prime + new water, add in your beneficial bacteria (stability) Then you give it 24 hours to do it's thing and do another water change if need be at that point. People run into issues when then don't wait the 24 hours after adding bacteria. In terms of the tank setup, are you satisfied with the filtration? Are things setup in such a way that you're confident it's robust enough? Welcome to the forums @Tlindsey and @JillianGarcia05!
  6. nabokovfan87
    Yep! 100ppm is ~5.5 degrees. 🙂
  7. nabokovfan87
    amanos are pretty easy. You can just put in the GH and I wouldn't expect too much of an issue. If we were talking KH, I would be more concerned. That being said, 1 degree per week is absolutely safe and you can take the slow approach to get it up gently. Your GH right now at that base level is perfectly acceptable.
  8. nabokovfan87
    You have a very, very thin layer of substrate and it's going to be an issue where the plants can't anchor themselves and build good root structures. I would have 2.5" minimum thickness for the substrate in a planted tank. For most situations, the recommendation is about 4" of substrate. Adding some salt also helps with ammonia burn! I would move all of your val to the back area of the tank. I think it's a lily, I would move that towards the front left corner (off-center from the light). I would try to plant some of the floating stems you have and at least give yourself a chance for those plants to grow without blocking out all of the top of the tank. Right now you can see it's blocking out the two plants on each end of the tank. Scrape the glass, all sides, as long as you're seeing this dense algae right now. Once you get things under control a little bit more and the plants are growing you can then proceed with only scraping the front + sides (if you wish to scrape the sides). I would also go with a 50% or 75% dose of ferts right now as it's clear you have too much in the water right now and the plants are struggling. Welcome to the forums @slowdown !
  9. nabokovfan87
    Do you have a surface skimmer handy? Especially on a tank that size, having an overflow or skimmer might be really helpful.
  10. nabokovfan87
    @Bentley Pascoe has one that's been in the background for his livestream for a while now with crypts! Those worked really well for him. If you have a nice piece of hardscape, things like anubias, ferns, those will do well too! Pecktec has a ton of videos with the fluval tanks and he always uses really easy plants. 🙂
  11. nabokovfan87
    With your KH at 40 and GH at ~70, I would target a GH of ~100 and try to keep it around there. Your range would be min 80 up to 125 or so.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Size is definitely an issue. Think in terms of the ziss bubble bio. A "fludized media" filter would be like.... putting a 110 on low on a 40G or something and that's probably not big enough. you really need a LOT of space and a ton of air for those.
  13. nabokovfan87
    Food #3 is finally arriving here soon. I'll be excited to try it out. Once I have some time I'll post a bit about some expanded thoughts on my testing with shrimp foods and working with fish and shrimp in a colony setup. (Very limited fish, but the fish that make sense for the colony to welcome)
  14. nabokovfan87
    13:00 is a really amazing section. It's all done well. "What if I told you that the positive impact this hobby has for your mind is the same positive impact that sports do for your body."
  15. nabokovfan87
    If you're able to move the eggs to a tumbler or a shrimp tank or a container with methylene blue (in that order).
  16. nabokovfan87
    Here's another as well.
  17. nabokovfan87
    I cleaned the tank today. It's a bit of a frustration to clean it with the taller pipes and the elbow on the top. I pulled out the sponge and got all that going. I was checking the feeding dish, moving botanicals that got stuck in the back of the tank, and just watching the shrimp. I used my hand to gently move the shrimp out of the way to be able to clean up the debris in the sand and around the food.... then I saw it. One female with a really bad white ring where it's a certainty that she'll die from not being able to molt. A male was bugging her and just causing stress. I tried to gently move her to a quiet spot without the male and he just kept mauling her. Then I saw another female, same situation and she'd already passed. I pulled that body. Trying to find the first female, then I found a male that had passed. I assume this is all related to the GH swings, the crash and things swinging in the other direction. It's really tough to see it happen and I've lost 8 shrimp so far, 7 females (all white rings after releasing baby shrimp) and 1 male. I need to really get a grasp on this and keep an eye out. Tomorrow I'll spend some time watching them and repeating the testing again. When I added the ~4g of water back into the tank I added back in a heaping 1/8 tsp of GH buffer and I hope that's the right amount to add to get things where I need them to be. I have a new food coming, so I am extremely excited to test that out! Waiting for things to arrive and happen and just hoping for the best going forward.
  18. nabokovfan87
    @TeeJay are you running a tidal without a basket or no? I know we were messing with it, wasn't sure if you still had it going.
  19. nabokovfan87
    shrimp + rasbora or danio or white clouds go well together because of temps. Bettas like it a little warmer, they might be ok with some tetras. In a 5G though I think you're better off with just the betta or just the nano fish.
  20. nabokovfan87
    I had my black corydoras for about 1.5 years before I reliably saw them eat. It's so tough to feel that way and I seriously feel the stress and concern. I hope he's getting something in his stomach when you're not looking. I did the Odd_Duck dewormer method and they were seriously like a whole new herd and very active and eating like crazy. Hoping for the best and you see some improvement. You can do it Spike!
  21. nabokovfan87
    It really does. The hob you're showing has very minimal mechanical filtration and a "good amount" of biological. That being said, if you have the biological with gunk all in the pores, you're not growing bacteria and you're not as stable as you could be. For the sake of putting a number on it, let's say you're 30% less efficient. I have seen bypass and all sort of things in filtration. There are ways to make things efficient, but honestly, this is literally a very easy fix and you can get things to work easier for you if you bag the rocks. You don't have to worry about them sliding in the way when you pull the fine pads and it just makes your life easier. Speaking in terms of efficiency, it makes you enjoy working on the filter a little more, which is a win-win. They make the cartridges in such a way that they stick out of the water. The water shouldn't ever go over the top of it. They typically build in places for the water to bypass when it gets to a certain level to prevent flooding, the tidal has them as well. Makes sense... However, in this situation the fluidized media would be taking up chunks of debris as opposed to bacteria (in some cases). To be clear, I totally understand what you're saying and I get your point. Simply put it does matter for stability sake.
  22. nabokovfan87
    That's awesome. Welcome to the forums! This is how I feel about the breeder boxes. I just with the co-op had the fine mesh ones. 😂 Love it.
  23. nabokovfan87
    Just wanted to share this for the sake of the first minute of the video and maybe you'll enjoy seeing the rest of the video. I really do appreciate the therapy aspects of having a tank you need to work on over time, or better stated, a tank that you motivate yourself to keep working on improving (much like yourself).
  24. nabokovfan87
    Essential your filtration is out of order. The media would do better in a media bag, but the main issue is just order. The biological should be after mechanical filtration. I'm your setup, the white fine mechanical filtration should be the first thing the sponge hits, then your biological media, then out. The main issue and difference here is that the tetra flows from the right to left, but I would guess it's also bottom to top. This is similar to the aqueon quietflow filters. In terms of the tidal, the pump starts at the top of the container and the basket itself is used to push the water to the bottom of the chamber.
  25. nabokovfan87
    +1 for decoration skills! +1 for the cool artwork on the wall Nicely done! My stand is made by a company called sauder. I really like it. They used to be sold under the aqueon brand name. The issue I ran into is that for some weird reason stands are made to match the tank by a few millimeters. I don't know why the tolerances for the top wood panel have to be so tight. That being said, I got an "aqueon" stand because my tank is from aqueon. Just be really careful buying a top fin stand (or marineland or someone else) and then going to put on your tank from the sale. You really have to check measurements and make sure it will fit! Each brand is making things ever so slightly different as a means to make you use their lids and other items. https://www.amazon.com/Sauder-416443-Select-Aquarium-Stand/dp/B07D4MQS3T/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
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