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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Great question. Methylene blue is usually the go to as well as botanicals or blackwater extract. I would love to see the whole process! Consider making a journal if you would like to share your efforts.
  2. nabokovfan87
    My condolences.
  3. nabokovfan87
    Always add air when using meds. It's recommended if you can to add aquarium salt as well. 1 tbsp per 3 gallons.
  4. nabokovfan87
    If you don't want them to grow taller, then trim them. If you like the height, then you can let them be. I am by no means any sort of expert with crypts. "Echinodorus, bulbs and tubers are trimmed by removing the outer leaves of the rosette and/or leaves that cast shadows over the surface. For Cryptocoryne, remove the yellow or damaged leaves. When the group becomes too dense, remove whole plants." Very beautiful setup. Well done.
  5. nabokovfan87
    I would say tab it every 2-3 months. If you tab it and you see it start to die off in ~2 months, tab it again. If you don't see any issues, then give it another month (i.e. 3 months). when it comes to what you're dealing with it's tough to say because it could be a variety of things. The crux of it is that the plant isn't happy. It could be due to nutrients, it could be due to light, but the plant is basically using/consuming old growth to encourage new growth. The leaves are pretty high and tall in the tank, and I would imagine that the situation in the tank leads to something where the light doesn't cover the full width of the plant, only directly under it. In that case, a light riser or raising the light via mounting it would be helpful. This makes sure all of the leaves are getting light and not just certain ones. I believe everything on the surface is low demand, so lifting the light shouldn't lead to many issues. My only other question would be regarding what your lights settings are, intensity and duration. What is your liquid fert routine?
  6. nabokovfan87
    I would plant it and tab around it.
  7. nabokovfan87
    I assume that it's already in there, but I just wanted to mention it given everything going on and the stress you're seeing. Do you have an "extra" air stone running for the sake of meds in the water? (not filtration, but filtration + 1) I don't think I've ever seen a fish do the behavior you mentioned with the swimming erratically, but hopefully he can de-stress, recover, and start to heal. Pulling for you little spike!
  8. nabokovfan87
    The screenshot has the aqueon dimensions and I'm willing to be it would fit. If you can, measure it, then lets compare dims. If that one isn't viable, we can look elsewhere. There are some options out there!
  9. nabokovfan87
    This reminds me so much of the summer months when I moved 3-4 tanks in a small area about 12 times just to get them in the right place! I would love to see the BNP as I would love to have one when I am able to order from Dan's. Looking forward to the vid and seeing all the things. Keep up the awesome work and keep grinding. Progress made for sure and hopefully you're also enjoying all the awesome things around you along the way. 🙂
  10. nabokovfan87
    Both my pandas and my black schultzei, similar stories and they got themselves back up to 30-50 strong. I've bred more than enough to recover the losses, but it just always happens where I start with the best of intentions and then something happens and I'm down to 3 fish, 1 female. I'll be working on trying to balance that out, sell some, get the $$ to be able to get more genetics. I wanted to share that just to say, there is definitely hope! Give them time and just keep doing exactly what you're doing. Reading articles I can make some recommendations on triggering them, but from what you're doing they are already breeding for you. Something like increased protein, feeding some repashy bottom scratcher, might be the one final tick to get the males to withstand the breeding efforts. It just takes time and practice. As long as you're seeing eggs, I think you're golden though. (or maybe some repashy spawn and grow!)
  11. nabokovfan87
    I called aqueon on mine and they said "we know". I send them all the photos and asked the person I was talking with on the engineering / technical side to please let the higher ups know that it's a bit bizarre. For their case, it's a glass thickness issue which means they have the wrong rear trim. I would love for them to upgrade it to have the proper size hinge / parts, but yeah... @Saltinthedesert do you still have the lid or did you return it? I assume the issue was that the lid itself wasn't long enough, left to right, but fit properly front to back? What is the dimension on the inside edge of the rim and does the tank have a crossbrace?
  12. nabokovfan87
    I would start by getting the brand on the phone and go from there. I'll see what I can find. It's a known issue and it's something I see across all brands with lids these days. How you mess it up that badly, idk. I have a big gap on my 29G lid because front to back they decided to just leave a big 3/4" opening. The other option would be aqueon versatop, but I'll try to find some dimensions.
  13. nabokovfan87
    Some type of fungus and or mold. It's an organic material, slightly wet in a dark cool place and so that's just nature doing what it does. As far as saving it. People will dip/soak things in hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, or other chemicals to help remove things. You could spray it off with a power washer or strong hose and then soak it with something and keep an eye on it. I always try to add an airline when soaking for longer that a day or two because of not wanting to have stagnant water grow things that I'm going to dump into a tank. But no, I wouldn't toss it or anything, just clean it and treat it like any piece of wood you just purchased from the shop. Keep an eye on it and see what happens after it's cleaned and treated.
  14. nabokovfan87
    As Colu and Fish Folk mentioned, it might be best to give the fish, salt, and meds some time. Finish the round of meds and salt and holding off food to see how things change in a week. I apologize for that feeling of being lost. It does happen to all of us at some point and it's part of that "introduction" to the hobby. For myself it happened years in when I had my first illness issue. I learned a lot as well from struggling with plant and algae issues. I would check out the aqueon betta nutrinsect line of foods. It's very affordable and should replicate the fishes diet pretty well. It has other advantages as well given the ingredients used. We are all here to help. So please let that ease a bit of the concern and anxiety of the situation you might be feeling. We all want each other to succeed and enjoy the hobby for a long time. 🙂
  15. nabokovfan87
    Looks more like a wound to me.
  16. nabokovfan87
    I tried a few and it's tough! you'd want to find something ~25 watts if you can. Sicce has some heaters that fit that, not adjustable though, and I'll attach a Pecktec vid below. I'll also toss in a Rachel vid where she's discussing nano heaters. Also noting - I will make sure to make her fast. She isn't going to be too happy about that. Does the bloating mean something? It's a tough one. It could be a food issue, it could be just gulping air, or it could be a fluid buildup, but the best thing to do is not to make the situation worse by feeding and making the fish bloat even more. I had one fish and it took the full 7 days for them to reduce the bloat a little bit. Just be patient with it. Fish in the wild don't eat every single day! Unfortunately I do see a bit of fin rot. The meds for that would most likely be kanaplex as the easiest one to get a hold of. the other one to use in lieu of kanaplex is maracyn 2. Again, likely you're looking at 2 treatments back to back to fully resolve that situation. So... big picture. we treat whatever is the worst thing first. Right now the worst thing is likely the popeye and the bloating. @Colu @Odd Duck Given the 3 symptoms we have here, fin rot, bloating, and popeye, and currently undergoing treatment with maracyn (round 2) and needing a heater to bump the temp up, what is your recommendation here for next steps?
  17. nabokovfan87
    I know... bit of a shocker... I feel like I want to get some nerites now.
  18. nabokovfan87
    Such a beauty of a pleco! I miss my plecos so much..... I really, really do.
  19. nabokovfan87
    Fingers crossed! Live view of the feeding tomorrow 😂: I always do a 2x dose when it's that situation just in case it's chloramines or something at play too.
  20. nabokovfan87
    😂 You right. Great album. Hit up Alabama Christmas too, the one with Thistlehair the Christmas Bear (for the kids) and Santa Clause I still believe in you (for the adults wrapping the gifts). For me, I need some clothes, yep but it's just how it goes. I would like 3 big ol bags of substrate. I really want my plants to ship out and arrive healthy and happy. Desperate need.... I really want to get a reliable heater for a 20Long that I feel comfortable with or get the heater controller going.
  21. nabokovfan87
    What is your filtration setup like? Poor water parameters could be the root cause of the issues you're seeing. If you have some stability issues with ammonia, nitrite, then I would highly recommend a good water change... 80% or so (one time) and follow that with 30-50% water changes for a few days. Getting water quality where it needs to be would be priority over adding in more meds right now. Marina has a nano filter that's adjustable that can be used with bettas. (S10 is the model number) and it can be modified to remove the cartridges and add in something like ceramic media to boost your tank water parameters stability. Adding something like lava rock to the tank can also help with that. Awesome! Let's also just triple check filtration is good and adequate. Having a 3G setup can be very prone to swings and spikes.
  22. nabokovfan87
    Bacteria is typically a back to back treatment (2 weeks with 1 day off in-between). Please see the note at the end! If you can, please try to get a tight shot on the head from the front and side view. I am trying to see the scales on the head and body region. There is some bloating, so lets also hold food for a minimum of 5, preferably 7 days. I would also love to see the rear fins in case there is any signs of fin rot. Also, there may or may not be some white cysts which could point towards a few things as well. If it's just added slime coat it could look like this as well. Let's try to see some detail and go from there! I would start by turning the temp to 79 and let the tank slowly raise up. 77 might be on the cold side.
  23. nabokovfan87
    It's a bit difficult to tell what is going.on with that plant. The glare or just lack of light is tripping out my eyes and I can't see what's going on. You can easily move the plant and dip it in a bucket or something if you need to try to save it. If the fungus is on the wood itself (or rock if that's a rock) then same thing. The leaves look super healthy, but potentially that chunk of the rhizome is rotten. Either way, no.... None of that points towards a water issue. Things grow stuff sometimes. You don't need to switch tanks. It could do more harm than food if there is a filter cycle issue. Adding fish to the other tank jumps the bioload and then you have an issue with an ammonia spike and the fish get sick from that process.
  24. nabokovfan87
    I'm guessing you're talking a 55 or 75G tank. The main thing I use to determine the light settings is going to be about what plants are in the tank. We also have this thread for the fluval 3.0 lights that is an awesome repository of a bunch of settings: I've messed around with the light a lot and I've gone in and tweaked things based on # of LEDs per channel as well as my own tank needs. I'll drop two screenshots here for you. One of them is a "high tech" co2 tank with faster growing plants while the other is a low demand setup with anubias and what I would recommend for a fish only setup as well. Essentially.... 1.5 hours sunrise and sunset and then a 6 hour span of the light intensity that you're shooting for. Low demand tank: My algae fest BBA growout / high tech planted tank: Keep the blue under 5% the white you'd follow the "low demand" settings above. Red = pink channel above. Green = warm white channel above.
  25. nabokovfan87
    A lot of times you'll get some practicing. It is what it is! The female might be just getting rid of eggs and she was in the mood or it's a sign there isn't enough breeder males in the tank. Don't change anything, give her another chance, and you're likely perfect. From elsewhere on the internet, here is some known fertile ones, notice the grey inside: Someone can correct me here if I misspeak please! cloudy / opaque = unfertile clear = fertile
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