nabokovfan87

Yeah, that's not good. Sometimes there is manufacturing defects so if you get a little piece of something stuck in there (in manufacturing) it won't function properly. It should have a direction indicator and only work in that direction.

I don't know what it was that I randomly stumbled upon this creator. I have watched every video they've uploaded because I just really, really appreciate and enjoy the personality of this hobbyist. Unfortunately they haven't had new tank updates in a while, but... I wanted to share this just to remind everyone and share the love of the hobby with everyone, always keep learning. Always keep trying to eyeball your tank and find something that amazes you. Feel free to post and share what mini adventure you had with your tank today. 🙂

Nah, I don't avoid anything I just can't find the stuff I keep missing out on! It's all good. I swear I've had snails before! Hopefully the shrimp do well for you. I've never kept any "fancy" shrimp just amanos and ghost shrimp. Ghost shrimp were for the puffers and they didn't even last that long. Amanos though.... Man. What fun they are. Very tempted to get more shrimp for the pandas. Totally believe it. Shrimp just love really oxygenated water.

Eat my algae!!!!! 😂 I found a resource a while ago, it's a photographic encyclopedia for trying to look up these things. Modified lung has an entire journal for making cultures and crazy interesting things that make me wonder if I could ever feed live foods like that. I'll grab the link tomorrow, it's a really good resource. I don't have a microscope or anything but might try to get a magnifying glass or something to see if I can determine some better physical features and use that tool. I was trying to decide between two body shapes and I couldn't tell how the legs or antennae were formed. When they first started on the eggs they looked different. Sort of like little gnat flies on a plant or something is what I would equate it to. I get the feeling BBS might be in my future, only ever fed frozen before, but we'll see. I am tempted to release these guys into the tank but then I can't see them every day! I slightly turned up the flow and tomorrow I'm going to try to give them a better air gap at the top of the box. I get the feeling they want an airstone so I might drop one in.

@modified lung @OnlyGenusCaps @Biotope Biologist Any ideas on this thing? Here's a better screenshot off the video off my phone. I am probably just going to dose in some salt and prazipro/cyropro (probably the second one makes sense)? No idea if I should be concerned if this is something that can attack the fish (kind of why I really want to ID it).

One of the females, probably 4 years old? Longer? idk. Had em for a while. Pecktec has some massive Amanos! Thank you! 🙂 ALRIGHT.... Just a reminder, this was 24 hours ago. They have their patterns in now. Pretty much all of them do. Video is uploading. I went in and pushed all the muck to the output side so I can siphon it off. I already caught some of them doing up downs. I realized some of them were trying to go after those little parasites / bugs or whatever was on the eggs. I wish I knew what on earth they were, and then I laughed at my self, relieved, and felt like a massive moron. We do know this tank has amano shrimp. My sigh of relief was being able to see one of these critters on the side of the breeder box and seeing two small circles up top (or bottom) and then a larger oval shape as the main body. I had to do a double take and then just laughed at myself because I had thought it might just be amano shrimp larvae. Based on the way they move, the shape, I think I can difinitively say that it isn't amano shrimp zoeys/larvae. For reference, this is what they look like. I am so used to seeing them and just ignoring them. They are almost always in the tank floating around as a food source. In comparison I think they are about 2-4x the size of these little parasites/bugs that I have been trying to figure out what they are. Whatever it is, they sort of dart, pause, dart again. Somewhat light sensitive, but I just have no idea what they are. They are all over the mulm and the moss and the corydoras are definitely trying to play with them or go after them. I can't imagine it's something that is just in the breeder box, and I'm sure it's something in the tank as well, but they were concentrated on eating off the surface of the eggs. That's the only clue I have as to what they are. Maybe it's some sort of disease that was in the corydoras and came out with the eggs? Internal parasites of some kind? I wouldn't even know who to ask, but I'm at a loss. I HOPE you can see it. I cut a second video at the end of this, final minute or so that shows just the bug on the side of the container. Edit: Yeah you can see it at the end. Sidenote: here is LRB potentially with the same corydoras and can confirm, the eggs are sticky. I tried looking for a video he has on this tank but the youtubes search doesn't really function.

SEEEEEEEEEEEEEE Shrimp are just too awesome to not enjoy. @Chick-In-Of-TheSea 😂 Shrimp do really well once they get used to you. I really with my amanos could fully develop their fry. I totally would have the urge to go knock on the gate, they're so close! It'll be an exciting day tomorrow. Looking forward to seeing them!

I think the "some say it'll work others say no" confusion comes from people who misconstrue fish that like high mineral content in the water with having to dose cichlid salt which leads to "salt" and then brackish conditions. It's like that game of telephone as a kid and just poor translation or understanding, probably.... https://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/features/kribensis-the-river-rainbows/

Agreed with everyone above. Verify the decor isn't going to cut anything (some plastic plants can be very sharp as well as some decor) and then just use salt if anything. As long as your water tests fine I would just monitor it more than anything else. Salt never hurts, so I usually start there to help with stress. You'd want to make sure there is line of sight breaks and stuff if you do have a lot of breeding aggression between the males going after this female.

L236 - 75.2-84.2°F (78-79 is fine) L397 - 75.2-86°F (78-79 is fine) Corydoras - (usually prefer 74 degrees or so, up to 78 is fine, so lean slightly closer to 75 compared to 80) L236 - 6.6 - 7.6 PH L397 - 6.4 - 7.7 PH Corydoras - (generally speaking 6.5-7.4 is best) *you'd prefer to be 6.8-7.2 for these fish. It's a 75G tank, so I would start by adding one airstone per section. (either corner of the tank works). As far as stress that helps with circulation and oxygenation stresses. Adding salt helps as well. We'll need a full list of all testing parameters and then we'd want to verify all equipment is working. Any photos of the affected fish will help as well. Being at the surface, especially for catfish is often water quality (ammonia / nitrite spike), oxygenation, or temperature issues.

First step for me would be to add some aquarium salt right now. Let me look up some stuff. Which species of corydoras are in the tank? What is your PH in the tank?

Awesome. It's absolutely perfectly fine to use them, but you'll want to add something like a little bag of ceramic media or sponge as well to better support bacteria in the high flow areas. I would suggest a small bag of biomax at minimum to add to the filter after the cartridge: The little bag for the Aquaclear 30 should be more than adequate and just about everyone has their over version. the bag for the tidal 35 is pretty fancy / nice and you can use the bag if you ever replace the media, want to add more, etc. You can also add a good size piece of sponge too if you can fit it in there somewhere.

Usually, at least 2 weeks. Inspect them visually for shrimp specific diseases. 30 days is "best" but it all depends on what you can manage if you have a QT setup. For med, yeah, I would treat them, but when they arrive give them a few days to rest / recover and then go ahead and dose meds. You don't have to, but it's the type of thing where you might as well go through the effort fully. For shrimp specifically there's two mindsets for QT. Quarantine them and monitor them for parasites / diseases. The other mindset is that most / pretty much all shrimp diseases won't do any hard to fish, so people just don't QT them. If I had the space, I would get shrimp, let them arrive to my rack and monitor them for 7 days. Then I would dose in at the very least salt, fungal, bacterial, and parasite meds (QT Trio + Salt). After 7 days it would be a secondary treatment and then monitor them. Overall time is about 21-30 days to get through that process. There is a modified process I've been using for parasites which includes expel-p and paracleanse dosed in a specific way for 1 week, repeated for 3 weeks. This handles internal and external parasites. Edit: found it. https://aquariumbreeder.com/understanding-dwarf-shrimp-diseases-and-parasites/

I did the same thing until I figured it out. I totally understand 😂

@Caidenh24

This is currently my skimmer. Filled with silicone. Thread is linked above, I'll re-link it here, but you can see all the details and how to do this. Sealing the skimmer itself is very easy and you don't have to do any other mods. On the right side you gently push in the section to the right of the skimmer, then the pump housing usually releases. Let me grab a photo.

Right. So long term you're going to have cycle issues using the cartridges. Replacing that with foam is your best option. There's a ton of videos on it, but I would suggest getting some aquaclear sponge and cutting that to fit as you need to. Here is a thread that shows off some final results people have put together 🙂 This should be applicable to your filter 🙂

Something in there has to be causing the ammonia. Rotting fish or food. I would check everything really well. That being said there's a lot to unpack moving forward so that you have success. Is your penguin filter "modded" or are you using cartridges? @Chick-In-Of-TheSea Do you have the video of yours all setup you can share?

They can go basically 78 or colder without much issue. I have had mine get really cold, but I can't say how cold. Same here. I didn't feed them often enough, I would think you get your greenwater and then feed in a portion 3-4x a day, then they can sustain. I was using bottles rotifers, but it's so much better to have live foods.

Yeah, probably just full of water. You can use styrafoam or other things to keep the duckweed out. Your issue is the water level is about 2" too short. It's going to make nose, BUT there's a minimum, stay above that. Do me a huge favor please. First, take the filter off, media bag just goes into the tank to stay wet, just clean the sponge and all the filtration stuff from any duckweed. You have a few things going on here... let me grab some photos to show you. If you don't want duckweed in the pump, like I said you can run it below the skimmer, but above the min. That's where it is now. This should keep it generally quiet, but you will hear the pump slightly more. SO.... Please take the filter, the whole thing to a sink or front yard or something. Take it apart so you can rinse out the skimmer, the filter housing (filter "box") and the pump itself. you need to: Squirt water down this opening (where this guy is pointing) so that you can get all the debris that went into the skimmer, out. This is the pump housing, it's what comes off to reveal the pump. This is where you're going to find duckweed. THEN. you do the same thing, take the impeller off the pump (I use a small flathead to get the tab open, just be gentle) and then you'll rotate the impeller one direction to unlock it and then pull the impeller off and rinse that out. https://seachem.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360022536073-FAQ-How-do-I-remove-the-impeller-of-the-Tidal-75-and-Tidal-110-filters- Here is what you're probably going to find, but instead of BBA, you're going to have duckweed. If you need help taking anything apart, just let me know. Whatever that wave is on the pump housing, that is your minimum. For the tidal 75 it might be slightly higher, which means you just need it to be above that wavey line. You can take your airline and try to glue some mesh to it like this. The only way you're going to stop duckweed is to get something that goes out of the water. Foam would also work. Run the airline through the foam.

https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Assortment-Plumbing-Temperature-Resistant/dp/B0B9W9GFDK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=food+grade+silicone+o+ring+kit&qid=1669159555&sprefix=food+grade+silicone+o%2Caps%2C251&sr=8-3 They have kits like this you can get. You'd be looking for a larger size, 0 ring kit. Or just a specific length 0 right and then you can cut it as need be. McMaster-Carr is used a lot for parts for prototyping but often a higher cost. You could try laying a bead of the silicone caulking type of material on parchment paper and letting that cure, see how playable it is for your prototype. Or make the plastic and then adhere it to the edge itself.

These are kind of in order, but I did "catch them" spawning and then they proceeded to spawn for a full day. I first had eggs on both corners of the tanks, along the wall towards the surface of the water (high flow) and then directly across from the HoB output slightly left / right was their other focus. Not right where the flow hits the glass because it's probably too strong. I started collecting eggs when they took a break. Then they proceeded to find other sections and continue spawning. They went from the front of the tank towards the back of the tank trying to "hide them" a bit better. I think they were basically targeting hidden spots but they were the same distance from the filter output on either side of that filter. Kind of difficult to show, but they were on the back glass as well as the underside (dark side) of the heater grill. After that they went to a few other spots, again, more flow in the tank. They did this MUCH later, but you can see the eggs on that curved piece of wood. There's a little "channel" so to speak that made it really easy to deposit eggs. It seems like position of the egg as much as ease of laying them there is a factor with that surface. The CO2 had come on at this point, a bit more flow (I would assume somewhat) and the fish were heavily spawning in this specific corner of the tank. You can see the CO2 on, there is a pumphead / spraybar directly opposite the right pane of glass. That one corner probably had 50-60% of the entire spawn of eggs. Because they had some difficulty with that amount, you can see the eggs fell into the substrate, which is when they started to go to other sections like the wood, heater grille, etc. This rock / moss is designed for them to lay, they did use it. I imagine the length of the moss played a factor here. It could just as easily been eggs that fell and stuck to the moss, but they were leaving a dash of eggs here and there (wood, glass, moss) You can see the residue from the eggs being pulled. The would often come back to those same spots they "liked" when trying to lay. The is that same front glass, left a few inches from the output of the filter. You can see the pumphead in the back and spraybar that goes horizontally across the length of the tank as well.

It's definitely not normal for the fin to do that. I would suggest treatment as well. both! Salt and almond leaves will do different things for this instance. If you have something like Kanaplex, that's the med you'd want to start with for treating this. Salt = helps with illness recovery and external issues Almond leaves help with fungus issues (secondary concern with fin rot, often can happen) Agreed. If water tests fine, keep nitrates low (10 or lower) if you can. Then you would just want to verify temp and flow isn't causing stress on the fish.

@Helenahello, welcome to the forum. Can I ask about how your filter is setup? You mentioned you have a white cloud? Is it jut one fish? I am trying to figure out why you're still seeing the ammonia and potentially there is some things that can do for the fish you're wanting to keep. Let's talk through it and then decide on what's causing the readings, when to add fish, what to add, etc. Are they all in one tank now for QT or where are those fish intended for this tank?

Yeah. I was always amazed at how lazy a massive female SAE could be. She (well, both of them) were gigantic and they definitely could not be bothered to do anything but sit around for food. Like seals on a beach waiting for the trainer to come by or something. They had a good time 🙂 I swapped out my light, I'll add the photos here shortly. Back to what we were talking about LED quality, color spectrum, all that stuff. I am intrigued based on what I saw with my eyes, visually if the camera picks anything up. Same tank, more/less LEDs, but very different lights. OK so.... This is what you were mentioning about the betta and why I asked about the light. Something like, using a yellowish bullb on a flashlight vs. an LED is what my analogy would be. The first set of photos is the aquasky. You're looking at about half the amount of LEDs, same exact dimens in terms of the length of the LEDs, but it's a more green/yellow hue to the tank. The photos are forced manually on the same camera, same lens, same exact settings to try to remove variables. Aquasky: White, Pink, Blue, Green Planted: White, Warm white, Cool white, blue, magenta Aquasky: Low settings: high settings (didn't grab a photo of the light, it's all at 100) Planted 3.0 My personal "standard" settings I use for my tanks low settings And then this is just a bonus, the same tank, same settings, but I just turned the phone back to auto on the ISO/White balance