nabokovfan87

AQ Advisor is a great resource when you have stocking issues. They recommend 10-12. I would start there 🙂

what is your favorite colors @cavdad45?

have you tried the "stronger" dewormer that is often recommended for worms if you can't ID them? Panacur-C I think is the name. The actual medication is fenbendazole. @Chick-In-Of-TheSea be sure to check out the video in the OP. EEEEESH.

Adding some tannins might sort things out. Wood, pods, cones, leaves, etc. I would try to slowly drop KH with hardscape/Tannins. Beyond that. looks like my water before I had KH issues. I have to use Seachem Alkaline booster. They also have one that might work for you, if you ever do run into issues called Seachem Acid buffer. I use 2x 1/8 of tsp per 5G bucket of water change.

Replaced the lid on my tank with yet another one (29G) that doesn't fit properly. At least the glass is thicker and hopefully the thing stays together. I email Aqueon yet again. We'll see if they listen. I went to the big box store and tried to find a few things. YEP, don't have multiple choices and I have 4 local shops with 1 off them that might have what I actually need. -Plant glue, nope. -Plant of some kind (specifically a java fern), all of them were either dead, dried out, or rotting, so I got a bolbitus. -Rocks (they has 4-5 rocks in total, all of them were small and very sharp, not a lot of variety) -Mopani (two pieces, each of them were $30 and they were literally 8" long and not great for a tank. You would need 4-5 to make anything worth it). -Dark water liquid. Says they have it, can't find it. They have bottles of water though. -Floating plants. Nope, and they had a ton of rotting moss balls. That's AWESOME. You'll love it. So will the fish 🙂 Ewwwwww. LOL. I highly recommend not doing that to start your siphon! I submerge mine and let gravity do the work. 🙂

My amanos have stress issues when PH gets above 7.4 for a long period. Red shells and molting early (or they can't molt). My water is very hard. 300 PPM+ usually. That isn't the issue. My KH fluctuates and that's the typical issue for Caradina vs. Neo shrimp. I am not saying high GH, low PH/KH water is good for all shrimp, but I am simply saying that there's a difference between "hard water" and "high PH water". Not all rectangles are squares... Alright so, for most shrimp, you're specifically talking a certain TDS (usually) and a certain PH range. I would always look up something from Chris Lukaup or some database somewhere on shrimp species. I don't know if there is a planetcatfish for shrimp, but that's what I would go to. Often you're using substrate to soften water, like a blackwater setup, but it's the type of thing where you are often trying to pull things down and the substrate is a major mechanism for that (in addition to hardscape). If you're question is simply put, "will PH affect the shrimp"? Yes. It will. Depending what's going on long term you'll see issues. Shrimp like consistency. That's the whole thing with them. When something fluctuates, that's when you're going to see issues. Your shrimp is a little red. So it might be due to eating a ton of red food, but who knows. Just something to keep an eye on. What are your water parameters?

Potentially add in some rest days. at least one a week. I would hold food back for ~3-5 days until you see a little improvement on the swelling. Salt might help push some of that, but more likely doing epsom salt baths is the route to go if you don't see improvement. Please be sure to incorporate some spirulina or brine shrimp to help the betta clean it's system out. At least 2-3 feedings a week. Often you'll find that in the food / betta pellets, but just something to look out for when you're having some bloat.

They always find a way. Hopefully they stay IN the tank now. 🙂

Definitely keep a lid on there. LOL. Very beautiful shrimp. Nice feature!

@TheSwissAquarist not this specifically.... well. I have, but those plants didn't make it. I was watching some videos on houseplants and one common thing they do is use hydrogen peroxide to treat mold. The most common reason for it is that the plant or dirt/substrate is too wet. (need better drainage) Specifically (for aquarium and plants) food grade hydrogen peroxide is less stable, but better.

Definitely. There was also someone in the fluval thread that modded a kit for another light. Details are in there probably 2-3 pages behind the latest post.

Ah I see. Well, depending what is available these are the 30's I see. If you can, a 30 Breeder would work and give you that depth, but I totally understand the size limitations. I would go for the 33 Long at that point. it's an extra ~40lbs in terms of weight.

Depends what you want. Generally 4-6" away from the plant and then you want it to be at least 2" deep, preferably 3" deep is "good". Everything else you asked about was explained, but technically, that's the directions I've always followed.

There is a new 60G I guess that is similar but might give you better dimensions. Honestly, I would try to get a 75G or something that fits on a 75G stand. A 75G is the same footprint, but 21" high. The big difference being 12" vs. 18.5" deep gives you a much bigger feeling tank. I highly recommend 4' tank by 18.5" deep. It's such a nice spacing for the tank itself to work in.

I got mine off amazon for $20 or so. There's two kits. Just make sure you get the right one. https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Suspension-Plant-Spectrum-Marine/dp/B07F3BXN74/ref=sr_1_3?crid=25DDZNCCOLOWO&keywords=fluval+planted+3.0+suspension+kit&qid=1668831669&sprefix=fluval+planted+3.0+suspension+k%2Caps%2C521&sr=8-3

Just add an airstone, set em next to a window. You likely don't even need the window. Airstone is mostly to help keep weird things from calling the water home.

I cup them with my hand. The specimen container flat against the glass as if it was the net, then I gently coax them into the container. Takes some patience but like everything, they are afraid of the hand more than the clear box.

Sponge filters on this one, sand substrate. I would need some rock or something to buffer it. But yeah.... Definitely the best option.

I went ahead and re-verified the PH/KH on both tanks. One tank was at 60 and was right around 7.0 (males) while the other was at 50 KH and slightly less PH. I went ahead and added a smidge more of the Alkalinity buffer to even them out and then I'll go ahead and keep a much better eye on PH for the fish. anything between 7.0-7.4 is tolerable, my tap comes out at 6.8 (after off-gas) but PH drops are an issue due to very low buffer.

Sometimes that can be an indication of PH issues (or low oxygen. If you need to add an airstone and then just verify PH. Best of luck in the future with the fish. You'll get there.

Appreciate it. Do you think it's on the edge of starting body rot or not yet?

yeah. Definitely an issue this time of year. One bucket of water takes 2 kettles to be tolerable depending on outside temp. 😞

Salt? What is going on with the tank in question, what's the full setup? Obligatory tag for @Guppysnail to help us out!

Phosphate or carbon pads, chemi-pure pads, or that other one.... purigen. Sorry, so basically the red section you would fill the plastic with silicone or something. SEAL IT. So water is forced to go into the center region (at the top) and then you seal that middle plate so the water is forced to go from the sponge past the ceramic media and into the tube. That way the gunk doesn't have an easy path to the media and clog it. You could also move the fine pad to the bottom of the filter at that point.

That's awesome, insanely colorful fish! Nicely done to you both! Seiryu stone or Equilibrium! Best of luck with the project 🙂 That's awesome. Could you imagine sleeping next to that thing staring at ya. 😂 Interesting. what's going on with filters? I would love to see your corydoras situation, if you haven't be sure to share fun in the Panda Corydoras appreciation thread!