Jump to content
Watch our video on the rules of this forum.

nabokovfan87

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    11,092

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    69

  • Feedback

    100%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    You do need to remove it to lubricate it. They do have specialty tools for removing O-Rings. Yes, absolutely can do more damage trying to get it out, especially if it's brittle. You can try with a pair of dull tweezers or something similar as well to try to remove it. https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Scratch-Ring-Pick-Tool/dp/B07Y8QWX9B/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=o+ring+removal+tool&qid=1675560634&sr=8-2
  2. nabokovfan87
    Shrimp being active after a WC is VERY normal. When it comes to dwarf / fancy shrimp, you do want to try to match temp when doing WCs like this. Generally speaking 2-3 degrees cooler should be ok. The heater can rebound things up a bit easier at that point. If it's too hot, add some ice. In a pinch, that's how I handle things. Question. What else is in the tank? Is it possible for you to run the tank cooler with the stocking you have?
  3. nabokovfan87
    Looks like a young bruce to me.
  4. nabokovfan87
  5. nabokovfan87
    MST's recommends powder foods. He uses a blender bottle with bacterAE and a clay mix. I would imagine doing the same thing with repashy powder works well. The one I'd use for shrimp is..... Soilent Green + Super Gold. I would try to feed them repashy or wafers (small amounts but broken up, or pellets that you can spread around. If the shrimplettes are basically ignoring it then you'd want to try to have a powder food available.
  6. nabokovfan87
    The shrimp in that tank have basically zero cover. Of course they got hunted. I can't speak to everyone's setups, but I would not be afraid of fish and shrimp together if the shrimp had cover and the fish in question couldn't eat the adults. Is it better for survival to have shrimp only? Yeah. Yeah, definitely could. Any stone with white marbling will generally affect water hardness. (KH or GH) Loaches in general are often recommended for snail duties. They can, they will get into little hides and get some shrimplettes. Fish eat shrimp, loaches are good at getting in tiny areas and especially in rocks and rock piles.... which would be the way you give shrimp cover. One of the most common methods is to have a pile of bio rings. I would run a test.... If you have 2 jars, get two different substrates. I would suggest uns contrasoil and the tropica stuff to start with a comparison. ADA amazonia is another one I see used a lot. Put the substrate in the jar, the same amount in each, and fill it with water. You wouldn't need much, maybe 1-2 handfulls just to run a test. Add an airstone to each one and then go ahead and let it sit. Measure KH/GH over time. After about a month you should have an idea on how well the substrate affects the hardness and in turn you'd have a good idea to understand how the water changes are impacting that. https://aquariumshrimpkeeping.com/cation-exchange-capacity-in-active-soils-used-in-aquariums/
  7. nabokovfan87
    yes!!!!
  8. nabokovfan87
    I would totally have not left that in the tank. 😂 Hopefully it's not some crazy pest. @modified lung @Biotope Biologist any ideas?
  9. nabokovfan87
    Yes. 100%. Looks black to me. I don't see any brown or blue. Not royal, just black.
  10. nabokovfan87
    I'll try to spend some time tracking down the details for you. He has mentioned how many KGs of soil to add for a certain result, but there is a better way to explain how this works. Something like changing water too often would eliminate/remove the effectiveness of the soil buffering down the ph because it removes the things in the soil that drop the PH. I'll try to get some more technical info, reread things, this is one method as for how to add "enough" soil. As you're seeing, dealing with a massive amount of KH isn't easy and something with a high CEC would be mandatory to pull those things out of the water column. His videos and titles on his videos are slightly all over the place, so finding the specific information to share is slightly difficult. I need to track down the video when he added the bags of substrate to his bigger tank and his logic in how much to do so for a specific result. I'll find it.... Hopefully soon.
  11. nabokovfan87
    it can be rough on corydoras. Can you provide photos? Slowly start increasing temp, use aquarium salt as well as ich-X. You'll want to get the tank up to 78 degrees.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Removed for clarity. Handles are not plastic rod material.
  13. nabokovfan87
    I found this today. My first time seeing this video and what a plethora of information.
  14. nabokovfan87
    I have that one too. 🙂 On one of my tanks I use a python branded siphon (ken's fish sells em) and then I have the top fin one as my main on the panda tank. I've used the top fin one ever since I got back into the hobby. It's slower, but does work.
  15. nabokovfan87
    I would say clean the filter really well, clean the lids, keep up on that. Whatever you do normally, just step it up when you go through your maintenance to make sure that WCs and the filters are clean and working well. Bleach and all that isn't necessary because you have the for this specific issue.
  16. nabokovfan87
    It's definitely stressful. I feel you. I saw worms in my tank and my first thought was how long they've been there and trying to figure out what precautions to take. What you mentioned in the first line there is what you'd want to do. I'll grab a video, keep in mind this is for paracleanse, but there is also some explanation of expel-p in there as well. Odd Duck informed us that it is light sensitive, and so blacking out the tank, turning the lights off is great advice. If you don't have a lot of plants attached to the hardscape, you can remove it to make it easier to siphon. If you change 50% water, that's fine, but the key is to just do a good job on removing the worms from the substrate each time you dose in meds. Day 1: meds Day 2: siphon Day 7: siphon again Day 8: meds again That was my main method there. The goal being to be overly paranoid about cleaning the tank, removing them. That might take 4 weeks, but OD recommends 6 for a bad infection. That's just something to keep in mind. Play it by ear and keep an eye on symptoms and what you see. Keep us updated!
  17. nabokovfan87
    Oh that's a good one I've worried about too Zenzo has a video about body size, measuring how much food in terms of grams, there is a science to it! I think Irene's video is good too because it gives you an idea of the fish's stomach size as well as that the food itself expands and bloats up. Some more than others. I generally follow the rule of trying to keep an eye on activity and how much food is left after 15-20 minutes. If they are ignoring food, and I see a ton of food left in the tank, feed half that amount the next day. Find that balance and then just try to be consistent while you feed various types of food. LOL! I will have just 1....
  18. nabokovfan87
    I'm guessing the ones you got added on (depends on size) might be a mixed line. One is brown, one is more rili and you have a few recessive genes.
  19. nabokovfan87
    I must be missing something..... 😞 What is the amount of soil substrate in the tank?
  20. nabokovfan87
    LOL, Such a Pouty lady.
  21. nabokovfan87
    Definitely looks like it. You'd want to use Expel-P with a minimum of 4 doses. When you dose the meds, black out the tank for 24 hours, then wait at least 1 week in-between each dose (this gives the worms times to develop from eggs to worms. Minimum you're looking at 3 doses to treat the fish. Day 1: black out tank for 24 hours, dose in meds. Day 2: Siphon tank really well and do at least 30% water change. Day 3-7: Rest and monitor fish Repeat that as mentioned above! Agreed, I have used the above method! Works wonderful.
  22. nabokovfan87
    I'd have to check PH, but my other favorites are the dwarf rainbow species. Pseudomugil gertrudae Being one I might get sooner rather than later. If your PH is 8. Given it's shrimp, you should be able to get it down slightly really easily to that 7.5 range. Botanicals and wood should get you really, really close. The other method is to simply add a bag of something like Amazonia to the back corner of the tank and buffer the water down. Same affect.
  23. nabokovfan87
    Yeah! I noticed this too when I changed over. Much more clear. I really like having the timer, schedule, and the hard button to just push and turn the lights off. All I need is a physical wifi button so I can push it and turn all the heaters and pumps off. I'll have to show you what I did with mine. Added to my little fish area this past week.
  24. nabokovfan87
    Those snails look giant!
  25. nabokovfan87
    I guess we're racing!
×
×
  • Create New...