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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    I'll try to show my method, it's been done once and I still am confused, but maybe it helps. Do you have a fine black net?
  2. nabokovfan87
    I use seachem alkalinity booster which is probably baking soda in a jar with some other stuff. Honestly, if it works it works. Whether it's CC or a buffer (the one I mentioned of baking soda) then it's all good. The main thing is to keep it stable and not have it buffer then immediately go away. I don't know the exact use of baking soda per dose, but I do know it's been mentioned a few times. Maybe search for "baking soda KH" on the search tool and it'll pop up with who has the right dose to use. You're going from 2 deg up to 4-5 deg or so I would think. Just keep an eye on it over time is my main thing. I'm upset at myself for missing out on the Co-Op Terra cotta anubias nana pots.
  3. nabokovfan87
    This is how I feel right now. I've got some zoomed in shots on discord saved and I'm trying to just... seriously understand what I'm looking at with this shrimp. The worms (SJ) can go and move all over the body of the shrimp, they are just *normally* found peeking through the head area. They also hide internally in the shrimp gills. This is definitely a place where the white sand is not our friend for identifying white parasites on a white shrimp leg on a white background. LOL. I have resorted to netting some of mine just for the sake of better visual to see what I can see. That's a beautiful shrimp though. 😍 Yeah. It's very difficult to tell what is going on here unfortunately. Shrimp are quick, getting them to sit still is not easy, especially under a lighted source so we can see (oh those pesky human eyes). I often am fooled by "food" in their mitts and it's difficult to really tell what is going on. I know that isn't help, but I don't want to say "it's fine" and have the room on fire so to speak. When you record a video, try to have the phone sideways orientation. For whatever reason, especially when views on youtubes it makes it easier to zoom in. I can pause and zoom in on the vertical video, but you get a bit better resolution with it turned like a video camera orientation. Off to go stare at shrimp and wonder what on earth I'm looking at.
  4. nabokovfan87
    I saw this dude again. Still has that thing on his nose. Might not be SJ, which was the exact same thing I thought last time. I'm definitely too tired and drained to make a full determination, but I'll net him if I have to and get a photo from a better angle and all that. Coffee first. Shrimp are doing fine. Acting like basically nothing is going on apart from a water change. The meds are definitely impacting the water and the fine bubbles are quite nice, honestly. I've pulled molts, but they aren't going crazy and losing their shell or anything like that. Not yet anyways. The amanos on there are doing ok, they are just doing their thing. They have a bit more strength than the neos and especially more leverage, so they can pull the tougher algae. Luigi is a bit exposed with no wood, but she's hiding and found a spot to call home on the base of the rock. I will have to consider giving her a cave when all this is done. I know she appreciates them.
  5. nabokovfan87
    That Anubias! Hahaha. Ah I love it. Such a cool plant. That piece right next to the bowl is my favorite. It's likely the stratum. Over time it will stop pulling the minerals. Essentially add in some CC or something to the filter and then that will let the soil balance out. KH being that low, PH being that high is a little weird, but it does happen. It's not required, but it might be helpful to add an air stone to the right corner of the aquarium. I could be wrong, but I don't believe CC will impact the GH too much if at all.
  6. nabokovfan87
    Well the honest answer is that using TDS is a misnomer. Let's just assume you have a shrimp tank doing great. GH and KH is good. As a result of the KH being good, your PH is stable. As a result of all of that your TDS is "within range". Let's say it's 200. You add fertilizer and then your TDS goes to 230. TDS just means, there is something in the water. It has zero bearing on what is in the water itself. Cory has a video on this, using just normal water chemicals like dechlorinator and fertilizer and showing how it can change your TDS reading. Ultimately, I care about GH and KH. I want GH to be double my KH (or around there) and I don't want my KH higher than my GH. I want to have regular fertilizer use and I want to have a scenario where the plants are growing and the shrimp are thriving. My technique is only.to use GH and KH with my setup. TDS comes into play when you are using RO water, buffers, and remineralizers. Yes. Shrimp do very, very well on a planted tank. Plants in turn also do very, very well with shrimp. @Chick-In-Of-TheSea has a jar setup that demonstrates exactly what you're asking about. Honestly, it's pretty cool to see the changes over time in that setup. Especially such a short amount of time.
  7. nabokovfan87
    People have done it. Yes. Why? No idea. Just to say they did I guess. The shrimp want different things from all we know. Putting them together, one type won't thrive as much. Amano and neos do well together. For crystal shrimp you're talking sub 6.0 PH a lot of the time. This is from Marks Shrimp Tanks on YouTube. https://aquariumshrimpkeeping.com/can-crystal-red-shrimp-live-in-hard-water/
  8. nabokovfan87
    I found this as a bit of inspiration for you. Two very different setups and each is their own thing. They do compliment one another and the flow from one to the next is really cool.
  9. nabokovfan87
    ORD. Looks good! Thank you. 🙂
  10. nabokovfan87
    Duplicareus? I'm even a fan of something like trilineatus that don't get enough appreciation. They are one of the species that take a while for the pattern to really be appreciated, but they are at just about every big box fish store you can imagine. Shrimp..... Depends if you want to go the active substrate route or not and what might make sense for your area. There are some really unique stuff I see when searching the German shrimp stores.
  11. nabokovfan87
    Sweet! Good to hear. A GH that high definitely explains some molting issues.
  12. nabokovfan87
    On their website it just says "live fish" and it has the code there. I also highly encourage you to check out the videos on the co-op channel featuring the AH team. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/pages/live-fish
  13. nabokovfan87
    They will definitely grow over time. It takes about a year for them to get to a "large size". In general they get bigger than neocaridina or other dwarf shrimp species. Amanos tend to live longer as well given good care. Mine are well over 5 years old while neos have a lifespan of about 2 years. (Cannot confirm this as my colony is very new) Caridina and neocaridina are different species of dwarf shrimp. An Amano shrimp is categorized under the Caridina genus but it is very different than other Caridina species. Caridina and Neocaridina both can procreate in fresh water. Amano shrimp require brackish water to develop zoes into adults. The main ones are: Neocaridina Davidi (Cherry Shrimp, most colors) Neocaridina Palmara (new, snowball shrimp and a few others) Caridina Multidentata (Amano shrimp) Caridina Cantonensis (Bee shrimp) Caridina Serrata (Tiger Shrimp) Caridona Babaulti (Zebra Shrimp) Caridina Dennerli (saluwesi shrimp) Each shrimp has about 15-30 shrimp per spawn.
  14. nabokovfan87
    It depends on what kind. For Caridina and Neocaridina species you'd want to establish the colony first. Get baby shrimp and ensure that you have a good setup for them. For amano shrimp, have a healthy tank, ensure the parameters meet their care requirements and you're often good to go. The only thing I would avoid is a very hot tank with amano shrimp. If you're trying to keep discus or something, I would probably avoid amano shrimp. 78 or below, perfectly fine. It's very broad, but the short answer is yes. Shrimp need a minimum GH. This is something you can test for in your water and it's extremely helpful to have a liquid test kit for GH/KH when you do have shrimp. Most plants need that GH in the water as well, so it's a win win. For fish though, ultimately it really depends. Amanos are compatible with a vast array of fish and can live in a ton of tank setups. They can be. I think when I tried em they lasted a few days because I really didn't have a tank optimal for them. Amanos are probably what most people think of when you say "I would like some shrimp for my tank that are easy". Neocaridina and Caridina are wonderful species, but best served in their own tank for the most part. Once the colony is big enough, they can handle fish in the tank provided there is adequate setup for them to hide and escape stress and that you're able to feed them appropriately.
  15. nabokovfan87
    I would suggest just getting amano shrimp. They are slightly bigger, beautiful in their own way, and most fish don't (or can't) bother them. The care for them is a lot easier than other shrimp. You might see them as japan algae shrimp, but they are caridina multidentata. You can get packs of 5-10 for pretty affordable prices from a place like aquahuna as well and use the coupon available by aquarium co-op. I cannot recommend them enough. I love mine. (and my neos)
  16. nabokovfan87
    20L = 225 lbs 55G = 625 lbs Yes I understand there is two tanks there, but ultimately you're looking at a much bigger load than you think. I got my 55G stand on sale for about $60. It wasn't insane and it's a great stand that can turn into a bookshelf or TV stand when I need it. The big box stores have "the trick" you can use and you can go get a nice stand with a good size coupon via the app. There's a bentley pascoe video on the topic that I recommend you check out if you can't find a sale price you like. If we wanted to fully dive into using this as an option there is a few things of note here with the load. The drawers at the bottom alter the load path (goes from 3 to 2 drawers) which isn't good for the stress. I would also be very curious about what the underside (on the inside) of that top of the dresser looks like and how it's built.
  17. nabokovfan87
    Shortly after bath time when they were slightly younger. The amount of fluff and looking like a cotton ball these dogs could do knows no bounds. 😂 When we first got em....
  18. nabokovfan87
    Starting in about 10 minutes.... Back from trip, back from sickness, It will be really cool to see a lot of you out there showing some support this one in particular!!! Let's have a fun time 🙂 As always, thank you for all you do for us and the hobby Cory. Looking forward to hearing about the adventures.
  19. nabokovfan87
    I had that same thought!
  20. nabokovfan87
    Yeah. It's hard to tell what is going on there. It's slightly different in person. I am trying to get a grasp on the "rows of eggs" side of things. Meds are in. The culls I was pulling, it was sort of all with the same thing of that yellow section right in the gill region (under the shell where it should be). I had my magnifying glass out trying to ID what was going on. Seeing the SJ wiggle is a pretty distinct movement I think, that's what I saw. Worst case all of this is preventative and needed done anyways, but.... Idk. Pretty certain at what I saw and confused as can be why I don't see it on a ton of shrimp. Meds added. We'll see how it goes. Now I have to figure out the rest of it all.
  21. nabokovfan87
    It's the male at the end of this video from when we checked the last time. It's about 3/4 of the way through. That white thing on his nose. It very well could be a damaged antanaee but I'm seeing eggs and everything and it moves like it's SJ when I netted him. All the culls I pulled, those yellow patches on the gill area all look like eggs to me. I seriously don't know what I'm looking at, but I see that thing on the rostrum and it's pretty clear. Unfortunately.
  22. nabokovfan87
    Found one with SJ on its rostrum. 😞
  23. nabokovfan87
    As promised, a bunch of photos trying to show shrimp color. The amanos are doing good too 🙂 @Chick-In-Of-TheSea This is some of the ones I'm seeing as potential culls. I don't know if it's age or if it's color but there's a few with this sort of a weird color. Could be a bacterial thing too, so I definitely need to keep an eye out. This is normal color: I added some moss from the big tank in and they went to town.... And had another party.... And another.... The female amano (dark due to molting soon), is going to town on the BBA.... see @Lennie The male got himself some breakfast and ran to eat his repashy away from the feeding dish. You can see one of the more pale ones here.... the left side there you can see one with more of a striped pattern in the red (could just be a male vs. female thing) and then in the top right one that is almost wild looking it's so clear. All of this could be age, just something to note right now. From today: Oh man! So tiny.
  24. nabokovfan87
    Having that amount of mulm on the sand can definitely lead to issues. I do siphon my sand, some is easier than others. I would recommend having a bucket (or two) so that you can let the detritus settle after you siphon. You'd want to let things settle and then give it an hour (or longer) to check for baby shrimp. As you do this more and more you'll get better with the technique and know what to look for. For a shrimp tank specifically this is the method that I use where the end of the siphon goes into the substrate and then you "pump" the waste up by pinching the hose open and shut. Not necessarily. Some shrimp colors can be extremely sensitive to nitrates, very slight ammonia spikes, and it's all based on a variety of factors. The place you source them from, the care before, etc. All of these look fine. It may have just been that GH thing. A water change will likely help and drop the GH down to where you want it to be. After 2-3 more water changes, if you're continually seeing a death then we would lean more towards a contaminant. You can always add carbon in the tank as well without that causing issues for you. It would help to clarify the water and remove particles you don't want in the water. For sponge filters, I place mine in a bag (or it comes in one) and I just rest it on top of the sponge filter around the uplift tube section. Cutting back to feeding every other day is perfectly fine. A lot of shrimpkeepers do only feed 2-3x per week. There is a Mark's shrimp tank video on feeding as well as feeding behavior. I'll try to locate both of those for you. If you don't see the shrimp going after the food right away you could be overfeeding. The main indication is of course the waster (nitrates) getting too high.
  25. nabokovfan87
    If only there was some way for us to follow along and read a journal of some kind with all the new happenings in your fish tanks..... 🤔 @Lennie Seriously though, yes.... it's a great place for me as well, it has been extremely helpful to find people who can teach me all of the things and take better care of my fish and plants!
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