quikv6
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Treating diseases with trio and filtration question
quikv6 replied to the28thfish's topic in Diseases
You may have some carbon inside the white rectangle insert. If so, you can just cut it open slightly to dump the carbon out, and keep the insert/frame/white material. That houses your beneficial bacteria, and I would not throw it out..... Just the carbon on the inside. -
Current USA makes a few noteworthy ones. I have one, but have not set it up yet.
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I'm not sure...it looks like it may be some sort of prolapse or tumor. If the former, Epsom salt may help.
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Hmm...really tough to tell from the pics. And your parameters look fine for Mollies. Some may say KH is a tad low, but I think it's well within the realm of fine, provided there aren't PH swings. I think the wondershell is good, and I also think you should try the salt in addition to the shell. Salt and Mollies go together well, ans you can use it to gauge if there is a difference. Having dealt with wasting disease, it could be the very early onset of it, if you didn't treat it fully the first time. In my experience, it can strike different fish at different times, seemingly randomly.
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I think you are definitely doing it the hard way. I have a 75, and run right from the sink to the tank with a Python. As for dechlorinator.....I dose 1 dose immediately before filling, and 1 dose immediately after it's filled. I use Prime. Being you can safely dose up to 5 times the single dose....2 times is small potatoes for peace of mind.
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I'm wondering why Nitrates are 0 in a tank that has been established 6 months. Perhaps there has been a bump in the cycle as the root cause of the illness?
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I'm really sorry to hear that. Darn.
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Any update on the puffer?
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Please post water parameters.
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Barb Bell, What you are describing is exactly what I have experienced. The fish is hungry and wants to eat. The parasite causes the equivalent of a "sore throat" so to speak, and the fish is unable to swallow, and spits it out. To me, this is where Flubendazole has done better than Levamisole. As soon as you get it, I'd do a partial water change, and add it in right away. I actually microwave a coffee mug full of dechlorinated water for a minute, til it's really hot. Then I try to dissolve the dose in the mug. You'll need to really swirl and mix it in with a spoon. Once it is dissolved as best as you can, you can add a bit of tank water to the mug, cooling down the mixture. Then just add it to the tank. I also sprinkle it on frozen bloodworms, and try to let it absorb as they defrost. The faster you can get it in the fish's gut, the faster it'll work. I have found that within a day or two, the fish can swallow again. Hope this helps. Good luck!
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A solution to your problem would be to restrict the flow a bit going to the bigger, using one of those small bleed dials, after the "T", on the line going to the big one. This should even out the air between both filters. I had the same plan as you, as I just ordered the new AC air pump to run 2 small sponge filters. To be totally honest, to me, it didn't put out any more air than the green USB nano pump, but was noticeably noisier. So I just went back to the nano to run both filters.
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If and when you use the flubendazole, my suggestion would be to try and dissolve it first in very hot water, and then let the water cool to closer to tank temp before adding in. Flubendazole does not dissolve very well. It isn't the easiest to work with, but in my experience with wasting, it has been more effective than Levamisole. I have stuck with 3 doses in total, about 3-4 days apart, with a partial water change right before each dose.
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Looks like wasting disease. I recommend Levamisole (Expel-P) or Flubendazole. To be honest, I recommend Flubendazole significantly more, but it's harder to obtain, and harder to work with. With Levamisole, you can dose the water column, though it may be more effective in the food, if the fish is eating. Flubendazole sees to be better absorbed by the gills, in the situations where the fish isn't eating. The fish will starve, so my recommendation would be to act fast. I am saying all this having no knowledge of what you can obtain in your country.
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- parasite
- silvertip tetra
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That looks like it may be a prolapse. I had 2 fish with prolapses. What helped was an epsom salt bath 3-4 times a day for 15 minutes at a time. Within a couple of days, the fish reabsorbed the prolapse.
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So, I have never had puffers, so I can't speak to any puffer-specific info. I have had quite a few bouts of wasting disease. Often, they involve the fish not eating, or trying to eat, but spitting. None of the meds in the trio would help that. I recommend Levamisole (Expel-P) or Flubendazole. To be honest, I recommend Flubendazole significantly more, but it's harder to obtain, and harder to work with. With Levamisole, you can dose the water column, though it may be more effective in the food, if the fish is eating. Flubendazole sees to be better absorbed by the gills, in the situations where the fish isn't eating. The fish will starve, so my recommendation would be to act fast.
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Adding an extra air stone would not hurt wither, and may be helpful. Meds can change the viscosity of the water, creating the need for more air/surface agitation.
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It may be helpful to get an in-tank thermometer, in addition to the outside sticker one. I have found those sticker ones to be pretty inaccurate. When you go to turn up the heat closer to the extremes, a few degrees off can really matter. Also, go by the thermometer, and not by the heater dial.
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I am so glad to hear there is improvement.
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Yes, right direction. In my opinion, a tank will cycle a bit faster with a PH above 7.0. You may want to add a bit more baking soda.
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You can do this! Add the Nitrite to the top of the priority list. This needs to get to zero. The good news, as mentioned, is that ick-x requires daily 30 percent changes before a redose, so that will help. But for that tank with the 1.0+ppm nitrite, I'd do at least a 50 percent immediately, just to get that nitrite down.
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Fish looks bloated....hopefully not an early sign of dropsy. I would consider an epsom salt bath for 15 minutes or so.
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1)Ick-X is effective. Use it based on directions. Treat 3-5 days more AFTER the last visible white spot disappears. You can also raise the temp to around 80-81 to speed up the ick lifecycle. (In your pics, the temp looked to be 74....possibly a bit low, especially when treating Ick. 2) Livebearers thrive with higher mineral content. GH and KH. (Not sure of your parameters) 3) Aim for stability. Just my .02
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Wondershell can raise GH, but hasn't had any KH impact in my tank, at least. I recommend crushed coral as well. I have livebearers, and they thrive with higher levels of minerals. Is this a new tank? (Wondering because you said 0 nitrates)
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Just curious....does that store you mention have the same water parameters as you have?
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If its not too heavily planted, you can use Seachem Replenish instead, which immediately dissolves in as a liquid. It does contain some level of salts....but with livebearers, that should be fine.
