quikv6

You can try the Kanaplex + Furan together. They are exponentially better when combined, and I would add it to the food in addition to the water column. The other option that has worked for me is a sulfa based med, such as API Triple Sulfa or Seachem Sulfaplex. I would not euthanize unless you have tried everything else, AND they have no fight left, AND no desire to eat.

I have noticed my platy fry thrive on fresh clean water. I change water with fry generally based on number of days as opposed to parameters. If I can do a 40-50% water change aver 2-3 days, I will do it. For whatever reason, this practice yields healthier fry which grow faster.

I have a 20L with a bunch of pig....err....mollies and platies. I use 2 sponge medium sized filters in each back corner. I have one course sponge and one fine sponge...which seems to do quite a bit better visual job of mechanical filtration than when I had two course sponges. I like having the aeration/surface agitation on both corners of the tank.

Is she showing the drive to eat, or not even trying. If shes trying, but spitting it out, I'd suggest either Levamisole, like Colu recommended. I'd also soak the meds into food, with Garlic Guard. If you try another round of Kanaplex....I'd also try that in the food. I have found Kanaplex to work far better in food than just in the water column.

I know your question was pertaining to NitrAte, but your Tetra strip (which have been very reliable for me) is showing a significant degree of NitrIte, which can be deadly to fish. Water changes to get that to zero should be priority #1, and that will also help the NitrAte situation.

Chlorine or Chloramine a possibility?

My tap water is identical to yours. When I started with livebearers, they just didn't do well. I am not saying you should "doctor" your water, but I do, and there was an immediate improvement. I have been doing so for nearly 2 years now. Take Colu's advice...it's spot on. Only thing I would add to it is some aquarium salt. 1) 1 TBSP per 5 Gal is a good start for platies. 2) Add crushed coral (preferable to the filter) to slowly raise KH. (PH will rise a bit too). You can also add to the gravel. 3) Equlibrium or Replenish will bring up the GH. Add it slowly, an don't overdo it.

It's funny you mentioned Flubendazole. I have found that to be THE best medication for me when treating wasting disease. I had 2 fish where Levamisole was completely ineffective. I bought Flubendazole as a last resort. In both cases, it worked within days, and both fish are currently thriving. It isn't very water soluble, so getting it to mix well is an important step. But if your diagnosis is solely based on white, stringy poo (provided the fish is eating regularly), General Cure or Paracleanse would be a good first step. If you have sunken belly/wasting....I would turn to Levamisole (Expel-P) if the fish is eating or Flubendazole if the fish is trying to eat but spitting the food out.

You should see some level of Nitrate in a fully cycled tank, with the exception being a very lightly stocked and heavily planted tank. How long has your tank been established and up-and-running?

You can also turn the heat down a bit if you think it is Columnaris. One question: I noticed your nitrate is 0. Unless it is heavily planted, that can be an indication of it undergoing a cycle, or a brand new tank. Perhaps ammonia or nitrite has been present as well....just not at the time of your test. This can certainly cause problems. I am assuming you use some form of dechlorinator as well.

It can have a negative effect on the bacteria. I think you should still add it. That combined with fresh, clean water and a bit of salt should do the trick. If the ammonia does rise a bit, it is an excuse/reason for a partial water change with more fresh, clean water. That in itself will help. Worst case, you may have to re-dose a bit of the erythromycin.

My vote would be for a glass aquarium, especially since you reference your memory of watching the fish zoom around the tank. Experiencing the viewing is part of the joy. You can get great deals on large tanks on craigslist. Additionally, a certain box store for Pets has some "smart" Black Friday sales annually. I got my 6 foot 125 gallon for around $400 brand new with stand, lids, and lights last year.

I would lean more towards Kanaplex , but Maracyn 2 has some positive results as well. You can also try a bit soaked into the food, an addition to a normal dose in the water column. Good luck.

Jim TN, Columnaris is gram-negative. Use Maracyn 2 if that is all you can get your hands on. Erythromycin/Maracyn will not be effective. Stick with Maracyn 2. There are 2 other options: 1) Kanaplex/Furan 2 combo - Furan 2 has been discontinued and is tough to find. You can substitute the Furan 2 with Hikari Bifuran if you can find that. 2) API Triple Sulfa or Seachem Sulfaplex - These will also be difficult to find. I have used the above successfully to treat Columnaris. Sometimes one works better than the other depending on the case. Maracyn 2 would be the best "Plan C" for it. A Plan D would be API Fin and Body cure.

Night and day difference towards full recovery.....so glad to hear it!

I have similar soft water with no KH, and decided to have livebearers before I knew any better. I have been using baking soda for the better part of 2 years now, in addition to having crushed coral in the gravel and HOB filter. If sticking with baking soda, I have found that consistency is key: 1) Measure (change in KH/PH) exactly what X amount does to X volume of YOUR tap water. 2) Try to change the same volume of water each change. 3) When changing water in large volumes (I don't think this may apply to you, since you have a 10 gallon tank), I mix the total amount of baking soda in a separate 2.5 gallon bucket, and pour it in slowly, consistant to the volume of water refilling from the Python/Tap. This seems to maximize consistency, and minimize the chance for drastic fluctuations.

In my opinion, I always try to address any known problems first, before experimenting or speculating with anything else. You didn't mention the level of nitrite, but any level could be considered a known problem. I would partial water change to dilute the nitrite, and then address why it happened. In the interim, a bit of salt can help, and prime can help detox any remaining, though that is subject to debate.

Thank you. The tank is pretty barren, but I was thinking of adding a few silk plants. Right now, there is just a few pieces of slate, which the fish hides behind. I don't want to take away swimming space, though, as the tank is pretty small as it is for a 10 inch fish. Thanks again

Please keep us posted. I hope she continues to recover.

Thanks so much for the info. That's a big help. Being he's 10 inches already, I am going to explore the idea of getting him a larger tank.

Thanks Colu....anyone have any hands-on experience with this species?

Hello all, I found an adjacent office at my job that has a fish tank...a 46 gallon bowfront with a single banded leporinus fish. He's about 7 years old, and about 10 inches. When I asked who took care of the tank, everyone looked a bit puzzled, and said "we put a bucket of water in ever now and then." So I decided to test the water, and lo and behold...not good. Perhaps really bad. Nitrates were way off the charts. I estimate 400ppm+, as it took a few 50% water changes to get it back on the charts. Also, PH was off the charts acidic...around 5 or 5.5. There was 0 KH as well. As I did daily water changes, the PH rose to the low - mid 6s, and the KH rose to 20-40ppm. I got the nitrates down to 20ppm. The fish mainly just sits on the bottom behind a piece of slate, as he did before. My questions: 1) Is this typical behavior for this species? 2) Would there be a range of parameters that would be preferable? He probably lived in nitrates 200+ for years. Can fish adapt to that, or does it have any long term effects on them? Any and all info on the banded leporinus is appreciated, as I am probably taking over maintenance of this tank. Thanks!

First off, I am really sorry this happened. The salt and erythromycin definitely seems warranted. I am not sure about Ick-x, but I am assuming you are trying to cover the fungal bases with it. I have used API Fungus Cure successfully, and really like it. I don't know how it would react to the other meds, though. Don't underestimate the power of clean water in addition. Most importantly, I hope for a successful recovery.

When you say "refusing food", are you referring to trying but spitting it out? If so, that sounds like a direct path to use Levamisole or Flubendazole.

A KH of 0 is always a bit worrisome to me, as it can result in PH fluctuations, or a PH crash. Could that be related....possibly. I would test the tap and see what the KH is. You can use crush coral to help raise KH, and, in turn, stabilize the PH and prevent a crash. I think adding an extra air stone would be a good idea, as well. Out of the two meds you have, I think Maracyn would be more of a broad spectrum treatment, but you may want to try some salt and an extra air stone first.