quikv6

I have heard 1 pound per 10 gallons, if I remember correctly. It's not a super scientific thing. I have my substrate littered with it, along with a mesh bag in my HOB. Ultimately, it will just give you stability (KH) from a PH crash. In my case, my PH is too low for my livebearers, so I use it to raise KH, and in turn, PH.

So 7.8 to 6.2 is a big drop. Granted, that didn't necessarily happen overnight (and shouldn't have, with 80ppm KH), but that is a big difference nonetheless. Crushed coral will be your friend to maintain that KH/PH. I have found it best to use in an area with flow around/through it, such as a HOB filter. I can also work as gravel, though slightly less effective.

The test strip is enlightening. You have 0 KH (buffer). This can often lead to PH swings or even a PH crash. You look to be at 6.2, which is quite low for livebearers. But if that 6.2 is fluctuating or crashing....that can be where the "problem" lies. Crushed coral should bring up and maintain your KH. In my opinion....that would lend itself to stability. EDIT: In addition to adding the crushed coral (which would be a logical next step), I think it would be worth it to test the tap water you use for your waterchanges, to see where PH and KH are, right from the source. That can indicate how much of a "swing" the tank has undergone.

Livebearers generally thrive on high mineral content, specifically GH. I have found PH to be related to KH, but GH to be independent of those two. I think it is worth testing in your case. (Specifically GH and KH)

Kanaplex is a really good med. I have found it to be more effective in the food than the water column. You can mix it with Focus, to help bind it to the food.

What is the GH?

Gotcha. To be honest, alot can change in 3 days. You can easily go from 0 ammonia to a dangrous level in that time, considering it's a new tank. Since you're doing a "fish-in" cycle, I'd have some Seachem Prime on hand to detox any ammonia and nitrite, and keep a closer eye on parameters. If you are experiencing some mild fin rot, the salt will help, but it is most likely a consequence of the fish being exposed to the stress of the cycling process.

DMC, 1) I would keep him in his tank, and add the salt there (provided you don't have plants), If you do, you could still do salt, but less. In general, I think you should start at 1 TBSP per 5 gallons. That is a very safe, lighter dose. 2) I see you have 0 nitrates. Is this a new tank? Has it been cycled? If not, that can be your problem, and you can be registering ammonia/nitrite. (I know you said it was 0, but don't know how often you test.)

A little salt and good, clean water with a stress free environment usually does the trick for minor fin rot. Make sure you have 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite.

That looks like possible Columnaris (saddleback). Recommended treatment is Kanaplex+furan2 (nitrofurazone). You can also use other gram negative antibiotics, such as Maracyn 2 or Triple Sulfa/Sulfaplex as an alternative.

So let me preface with the fact that I don't have experience with Bettas, or popeye. But I have used Kanaplex quite a bit. It's a great med, but there were 2-3 times it just didn't work. I had switched to other meds, and were successful. It may be worth trying a parallel med (or 2) with different active ingredients. For example...You can switch to Maracyn 2 (minocycline, I believe) in the food, while dosing the water with Furan 2. You can also switch to a Sulfa based med, which are generally considered more effective in the water column, such as Seachem SulfaPlex, or API Triple Sulfa. If you don't want to read all that (and I don't blame you)....just do whatever Dr. Colu says to do....seriously. Always has great advice.

I have never had a Betta, but 89.6F seems REALLY hot....especially as a regular temp. I usually see recommendations for Bettas at 80-82f.

If the fish came from soft-water stores/sources, your water's high GH could potentially put them into some sort of osmotic shock, without the proper acclimation process. Do you know the parameters from the place you got the fish from?

My guess would be your water parameters are significantly different than the store. What are your parameters?

Has the API liquid test kit expired?

Sorry you lost him. You did your best, and everything is some level of a learning process, which can soften the blow. I have had quite a few fish suffer from this "wasting disease." They have all been platies, I would really like to know how to completely prevent it, but if that is not possible, it is always good to have the tools and knowledge to be able to recognize and treat it. It feels really good to see these fish flip a switch and start eating and gaining weight again. Good luck with the rest of yours. I hope for the best.

Hey jongalong, I know you said water parameters are fine, but you are showing ammonia, and not showing nitrates....indicating something may have disrupted the cycle. That could certainly cause issues.

If he is shimmying in place, that can be a sign that there is a lack of hardness/minerals in the water, which liveberarers tend to thrive in. It could also be stress if there is any ammonia or nitrite present. What are your water parameters? That may help to point towards the issue.

Thanks Colu...I actually put her in the main tank about an hour ago. I'll keep my fingers crossed. The mouth rot had stopped receding over a month ago, but I was just hoping it would regenerate. The fish was always very active, and happy to scarf down VibraBites, even without an upper lip. She has trouble with pellets and flakes, though. Now that she has competition, I am gonna keep close watch on her. Thanks again folks.

Thank you for your input Larithelord. I was hoping to see a bit of regrowth, but i guess at this point it just isn't going to happen. It is good to know that your diamond tetra is doing well. I think I may ride it out a bit more, but with the goal of returning her soon. Thanks!

Paging mouth rot experts (Dr. Colu, perhaps?): I have a Platy who I had treated for Columnaris (specifically mouth rot) almost 2 months ago. The rot stopped, though not before most of her upper mouth receded. She is still in the hospital tank. She has difficulty eating, but can and does eat. (VibraBites are the easiest for her, ironically.) The upper mouth has not grown back, but has not receded further. Aside from her mouth she looks great, and even gave birth in the hospital tank. My questions are: 1) Should this fish go back to the main tank? If not...when? My main concern is not her eating difficulty, but rather if the Columnaris could still be present. If so, the last thing I want to do is introduce it to healthy fish. 2) Can her mouth actually grow back? It's been about 2 months. There has been no progress (regrowth), though the receding thankfully has stopped. Thanks in advance folks.

Is patient #1 trying to eat? Do everything you can to stimulate appetite, like soaking tiny bloodworms in garlic guard. I'd defintely add a touch of levamisole too, though if you see him eat without the med soaked in, stick with that. You just have to get him eating if you can.

1) What are your water parameters (Including GH and KH)? 2) How long have you had the platy? 3) How long has tank been established? 4) Does the place you bought them share similar water parameters? Sorry bout all the questions, but the answers can potentially lead to cause. Livebearers do well with high minerals, as mentioned above. Salt, Wondershell, Equilibrium would all be appropriate, pending the current water parameters would allow for the increase. Personally, I have a feeling they would.

Can you post some water parameters? You can try a bit of salt to see if he perks up. And as for food, I have had good luck with Bloodworms soaked in Garlic Guard when trying to get a fish to eat. That may be worth a shot, if you haven't tried it already.

Any thoughts on wasting disease, such as: -Contagious-ness -Treatments (Levamisole, Flubendazole, Fenbendazole, etc) -Treatment Application - Meds in food vs.water column for internal parasites.