quikv6

While Paracleanse does treat internal tapeworms, it will not work for wasting disease. You would have to go right to Levamisole, which is Expel-P.

You may want to turn the heater on a 45 degree angle, or fully horizontal. Vertically placed heaters seem to be ore likely to short-cycle, based on where the thermostat control is placed within the heater. Heat goes straight up to it, and then is shuts off right away. If you have good flow, this shouldn't be an issue, so you may want to place the heater next to the sponge filter.

Hi JessLynne, I switched over to using Inkbirds, and use them in the same fashion as Guppysnail (As a failsafe, instead of a controller). The only thing I want to add is in regards to the 308 vs. 306...both Non-wifi. The 308 allows high and low alarms to be set. I use this in a tank with a single heater. This way, if the single heater fails to turn on, the low alarm will sound and alert me the heater has failed. (The 308 has a "cooling" outlet plug in addition, but I don't use it.) I use the 306 in the tanks with 2 heaters. If I heater fails off, The other heater should continue to maintain temp, or close to it. I don't see the need for the alarm as urgently, since it has a 2nd heater. Just something that may be worth thinking about.

Expel-P would be the easiest Levamisole powder to get. Flubendazole is a great alternative, and in my opinion, a bit more effective than levamisole, but it is much harder to get, and is not as user-friendy of a med. Stick w/Expel-P, and try to get some in the food as well, which should be the fastest way to combat internal parasites.

That gunk looks like residual medicine. Did you just dump the General Cure packet in? If so, in my opinion, it's better to dissolve it is a small cup of tank water first, then dump the contents of the cup in the tank.

@SJ fishing Did you ever try calling them throughout the course of this problem? If so, did they attempt to handle this issue any differently over the phone?

Great points on the above, especially in regards to a time frame on credit card dispute Also a very fair perspective on the phone thing, from your business standpoint. I do think there are 2 important points, from a customer standpoint. 1) A phonecall from a customer is on the customers clock. (Provided the business is open.) An email puts the customer at the at the whim of the business, and on the business' clock. Example: A customer needs help with a purchased Co-op product. They can only email. Aquarium Co-op is open, but the customer is now on the Co-Ops clock (as opposed to their own) as to when they will get a reply email from customer service w/ an answer/guidance in regards to their inquiry. Granted, the Co-op is GREAT with fast replies, but it still takes some element of "control" (not the best choice of words) away from the customer. Traditionally/Ethically, I feel that "control" should be with the customer IF the business is open. Also, I can definitively say most small business are not as fast and diligent when it comes to email customer service. 2) Again, ethically (hey...the thread is titled "A moment to vent") I do feel it should be the responsibility of every business to have some form of phone support, so as not to isolate/exclude any population of customers (or potential customers) that may not have internet/technology access, or be able to easily facilitate the use of modern technology, such as the elderly. My mom is older, and doesn't use a computer or email. The phone is really her only feasible option for obtaining help, in any facet. I realize this is a bit old-fashioned, and I also have to be cognizant of the fact that there are folks here, and everywhere, that don't know what it's like to not have email and the internet as part of their lives. The world is moving, and moving very fast. Not everyone can keep up, and sometimes that isn't necessarily their fault or choice. To the OP: I hope this didn't derail your thread! Good luck with your situation. I think there have been some great suggestions by members. Good luck!

I understand, though I truly think a call is in order first, and would be surprised if one hasn't been made, especially is they haven't responded over emails. There's a point where as a customer, it is their obligation (for lack of a better term) to let the company know that email attempts to resolve have not been working, and a resolution needs to be found sooner than later. It's in their own benefit (the customer), in my opinion. Further more, depending on the business, you may have a greater ability to get someone helpful/higher up the chain over the phone. Who knows...perhaps a manager who knew nothing of the initial issue that stayed in an email chain with one specific first-line customer service employee.

......Offhand, without having watched that video: 1) Your water, especially GH/KH, and to a lesser degree, PH. 2) Size/Volume of the tank they will be living in. 3) Male-to-Female ratio. 4) What to do with their fry. 5) Food you will be feeding them.

I know multiple people said a call to the BBB is in order. But before that, is it such a foreign idea to call (yes, call) the place you purchased it from? Perhaps I am a dinosaur....okay....I know I am, but I truly feel that alot of things can be resolved either face to face or on the phone with a human, rather than through back-and-forth emails where context and inflection are harder to grasp, and can easily be misinterpreted. Sometimes a genuine "We're sorry, and we're going to make this right by you...." from an honest employee can do WONDERS. If you tried this already, then I fully take back my advice to make an attempt. I am just befuddled that folks would put a company on full blast without even making an attempt to truly hash out a resolution. If they blow you off, then by all means, it's time to escalate the issue. And again, if you already this....my apologies. But I do think it is reasonable to exhaust all basic, common sense options first. I guess I am just an old soul, yearning for a simpler time. Edit/add-on: I fully realize I am saying this on a forum managed by a truly wonderful company/business that doesn't have a phone number. It is literally my only "gripe", solely from a point of principal, which has been fading rapidly as time marches on. The Co-op is top tier, and, in my experience, operates with a true regard and appreciation for their customers, the hobby, and to some broader level, the planet.

Thanks Colu. I appreciate it.

I have a male molly who has developed these bubble-like sacs on his dorsal fin. The look like little cysts that could possible pop. They don't seem to change his behavior in any way, and he can still throw that sailfin straight up when looking to impress the ladies. My plan is to do nothing, though they have grown a bit larger recently. I was just curious what this could be. Thanks in advance!

In my experience, topfin thermometers are off by a few degrees. Mine read 3 degrees too high. I'd also spring for a better heater, or 2 smaller ones, given the volume of water. Tank looks nice! You may want to consider a background, as simple as black window film. It'll make the tank pop, and hide all of the hoses and cords in the back.

KittenFishMom, I am so sorry to hear about your situation. I hope everything will work out, and I have my fingers crossed for you and your family. Please try to find a solution other than killing fish. Perhaps you can call the pet store and they would send someone to you to pick them up? Pet store employees are often compassionate people, who may help save animals from unnecessary death. Perhaps a friend or neighbor can take them to the pet store? Perhaps someone here on the forum lives nearby and can help? I realize solutions take time, effort, and thought. But I think your head will hit the pillow knowing you did what you can to be a responsible pet-keeper. Most importantly, I hope the best for your family situation.

I see a few "issues" here, to be aware of: 1) You are still in the cycling phase, as Fish Folk said. The presence of Nitrates will be your guide. 2) Platys like harder water. You're water is soft, which refers to low GH. You can raise GH with Seachem Equilibrium/Replenish, and or WonderShells. You need to have a way to measure it. The co-op test strips are affordable, and should be sufficient. 3) You said you have "no" buffer. I am assuming that is 0. Buffer refers to KH. If you have 0 buffer, you are subject to a PH crash, which can stress fish and cause deaths. Crushed coral can safely raise your buffer (KH) to prevent PH swings/crashes.

Widgets already named and linked an example above. There are others that just float in the tank, but I have found the fry do better with some direct oxygenation. You could always put one of the floating ones over an airstone or sponge filter.

Could be early stages of Dropsy. If so, tough to treat, though it can be "cured", especially in early stages. Once there's pineconing, it can really be a bear. You may want to try epsom salt baths, and feed Kanaplex in the food.

Mollies generally like harder water. I'd say 150-200ppm GH and 100 KH would be closer to the minimum. Feed baby brine, or frozen baby brine multiple times a day (maintain water quality), and they'll grow faster. Crushed flake will work in a pinch (pun intended), but baby brine produces better results.

Furan 2 has been discontinued. You need to find Jungle Fungus fizz tabs, which have Nitrofurazone as the active ingredient. You may be able to find a generic Nitrofurazone powder as well.

GH/KH issue would be my guess.

Jeff....what are your water parameters and what is the stocking? I am as close to positive as possible that the extra airstone is not the problem here.

Ich-X is pretty flexible, so I think it'll be worth a shot. At the least, I don't forsee any ill effects from it, especially if you go with the Kanaplex in the food

So the main med containing Nitrofurazone was called Furan-2 by API. It was discontinued. Jungle Fungus became more popular, since it's nearly impossible to get Furan 2 anymore. Perhaps that is getting scarce now, as well. I think it has to do with the active ingredient itself. Ich-x does have some anti-fungal properties, but Columnaris is a bacteria driven, not fungal. I believe it it gram-negative bacteria. The Co-op does carry Erythromycin (Maracyn) but that mainly treats gram positive. I have not had success with that for Columnaris. I don't believe they carry any meds that focus on gram negative bacteria (Kanaplex, Fin and Body Cure, Maracyn 2, etc), but I could be wrong. I have also had success with API Triple Sulfa against Columnaris, but that is also extremely difficult to find nowadays.

I have used frozen bloodworms when adding meds to the food, and it worked fine. If you can't find the fizz tabs, you can look for a nitrofurazone powder. That is the active ingredient in the tabs.

That looks like Columnaris, sometimes known as Saddleback disease. Follow Colu's advice above.