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quikv6

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Everything posted by quikv6

  1. From what I understand, they are different active ingredients, with Maracyn 2 being a true antibiotic. (Minocycline). I believe Maracyn oxy is more geared towards fungal, similar to a sulfa.
  2. I have had good success with Maracyn 2 plus very clean water for fin rot. 50 percent water changes daily with recplacement of meds lost in the water change.
  3. Follow Colu's advice. Ammonia and Nitrite can and will kill the fish. Daily (or twice daily dechlorinated water changes will help. But ultimately you want both at zero at all times. You should feed VERY lightly if at all until levels get in check.
  4. I am curious about the 50W heater. I'd love to order a few of those. I see it listed as an option alongside the 100W but both are sold out. When I ordered my ACO 100 Watt heaters, there was no option for 50W, otherwise I woud've bought a few as well. Any info on the 50W?
  5. Looks to be a pretty severe bacterial infection. An example would be severe fin rot spreading to body rot.
  6. I think you should dose according to the package, given you clearly have something going on in the tank. Kanaplex would be a great med to treat with, as it is broad, and treats more gram negative bacteria than Maracyn would. But whatever you use, I would do a full course of treatment at the least, even if you have no more random deaths.
  7. I'm very sorry to hear that. Sometimes illness can spread very rapidly, and not exhibit much in the way of signs to alert us humans.
  8. quikv6

    Great for ich?

    Yes, I believe that is what the directions said. It's a bit of a pain, but you'll get through it!
  9. It depends. Monitor for improvement. (No more fin clamping, good appetite, etc). Then, you can slowly ween off the salt at waterchanges. Remember, salt doesn't evaporate, so keep that in mind during water changes. If you have 1 tablespoon in a 10 gallon tank, and waterchange out 5 gallons, then add 1/2 tablespoon if you plan to maintain the same level of salt.
  10. A bit of salt (if planted...if not...a bit more), and minimal to no light. Try to make a stress free environment, and keep clean, clean water that is well aerated
  11. quikv6

    Great for ich?

    Continue to treat 3-7 days after the last visible signs of ick on a fish, due to life cycle of the parasite.
  12. With regards to the newer style Aqueon Pro....I have been through 3 of them, with the 3rd still being in use. -The first required the dial to be maxed out in order to maintain 78. The scale was completely off. Normally that wouldn't bother me terribly, but I had no more room to turn up if I needed to increase temp for ick/fry/etc. Aqueon replaced it for me. -The 2nd one was also off on scale, though not as much. 82-83 on the dial resulted in 78 on the water. The 78 fluctuated quite a bit, pending small room temp changes. I was not thrilled with this, as the older model was far more stable, and did not reflect small room temp fluctuations. It eventually failed in the off position. I was alerted because I had an Inkbird on it....the model with the low temp alarm. (A nice feature if you are only running 1 heater in a tank.) I believe it was only 6 months old when it failed. -The 3rd is still working (knock on wood), with a scale that is also off a bit. 80-82 is 77-78 water temp.
  13. quikv6

    Fuzzy mouth?

    Looks to me like columnaris, in the form of mouth rot. Two fish in the pic look to have it. I have had success with Triple Sulfa, though it isn't available anymore. You can try Seachem's Sulfaplex, though I have no experience with it. Another option is Kanaplex+Jungle Fungus Fizz tabs.
  14. That picture is incorrect for Flubendazole. They are different. Fenbendazole will not work in the water column, and really needs to be added to the food. If the fish isn't eating (or spitting), this is not really a viable option. Flubendazole works extremely well in the water column. It has saved quite a few fish of mine. Let me see if I can find the info for the source I purchased it from. Standby. EDIT: I purchased it here, below: http://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/ItemsForSale.html Hopefully I am allowed to add that, as Flubendazole is not able to be purchased at the Coop. It has probably been the best money I have ever spent on a med. With that being said, it is not the easiest to work with, but does work very well.
  15. Salt, in small doses, should be helpful. You can start at 1 teaspoon per 5 gallons.
  16. First off....congrats on the baby! It doesn't look like columnaris in the pics. Shimmying is livebearers can caused by a lack of hardness/minerals/PH that they really want. I don't see that in your case, though you didn't list KH. PH should be okay, provided it's steady, and not on it's way down due to lack of buffer. I'd do a couple of small waterchanges and add some salt. Take note on if the fish is eating, or trying to eat (and spitting). You can then proceed w/possible Parasite meds such as Expel-P or Paracleanse, pending the result.
  17. The ammonia may be the issue here. You tested at .25, but that doesn't mean it wasn't higher at some point. Small water changes with a dechlorinator that also temporarily binds ammonia such as Prime, would be a good path forward. Some salt could help as well.
  18. Gannon...I echo your sentiments on the older Aqueon Pro heaters. I have had 7 of these running constantly. They are great. I did have one fail (off) after a few years. The light still let red when heating, but just didn't heat. The Inkbird alerted me to the fact that it failed. I found ebay to still have a few of the older models for sale, so you might want to check there. The newer Aqueons are terrible. I did go with 2 new ACO heaters on a newer 125 set up. Believe it or not, I only needed 1 to fully heat a 125 to 79 degrees. I keep the 2nd one in there as a backup, set 2 degrees lower than the primary. To be honest, I am really, really happy with them thus far, with the exception of the suction cups. As for longevity, that is still to be determined. I will probably hate that flashing "end of life" message so much, I may never see how long they actually will last. But so far, I have been very happy with the two that I have.
  19. Nabokovfan87 brought up a great point. It would be best to test your tap water for PH, GH, and KH before we speculate and give opinions. If your tap is 6.0PH, with 0 KH, I actually think the aragonite would be beneficial in that case, solely to avoid any PH swing/crash. But lets find out what the tap is for sure before guessing..
  20. I agree with not using it for the above fish. If you were going to stock with livebearers such as mollies, guppies, and platies, then I would consider it, especially of your tap water was softer than average, and below 7.0 PH. Otherwise it just shouldn't be needed.
  21. Expel-P is a great guess. I would add some to the food as well. I have not had as much luck with Levamisole in the water column as opposed to the food. If they continue to spit the food, you may need Flubendazole, which has always done better in the column in a situation where a fish is spitting.
  22. Airstone is a good idea. Some salt may help them adjust as well. As Colu mentioned...what are the KH and GH? Guppies generally prefer harder water, and could be facing a small "shock" if your water was vastly different than the water they came from.
  23. What are your water parameters, specifically? Also, if it is indeed fin rot, you'd me much better off using a med that is more focused on gram negative bacteria, such as Maracyn2 or Kanaplex, as mentioned above. Also, don't underestimate the benefit from clean, clean water with fin rot. Small, daily water changes can really help, combined with the salt and medication.
  24. There's a ridge that snap in and grabs, for a tight fit. It is definitely 2 pieces.
  25. Part number 2 sits in part number 1. It is 2 pieces, and it definitely will pop out.
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