quikv6

I wanted to mention, if he really doesn't show much interest in food, you may want to try to feed him a frozen bloodworm or two. It is probably as enticing as you can get, when trying to get a fish to eat.

You're doing the best you can for him. For now, keep up with the smaller water changes (temperature matched) to keep ammonia and nitrite at 0. Continue adding salt to replace what was lost by the water changes. And Kanaplex would be the go-to med of choice, if you can.

Hey OurfFishBabies, I got your direct message, and I am sorry to hear he isn't getting better. I am replying here in hopes that our resident "doc" Colu @Colu chimes in, as he has alot of experience w/different issues, and offers great advice. If you can, please post current water parameters, and temp. If you can, post another pic. He could be dealing with a worse case of fin rot than expected, where a medicine like Kanaplex can really help. Water parameters and instability could be the ultimate cause, but it could take time to get back in the right direction. I have my fingers crossed.

I soak the food and med powder for a bit together, bit I also add a bit of Seachem focus (its a powder that binds the med to the food), and Garlic guard, which is garlic extract to mask the medication. I wouldn't worry if you don't have either. I would dose the column as directed, and then just sprinkle a bit more of the med to soak w/food.

Great advice from Colu, as always. Don't be afraid to add some Levamisole (Expel-P) to the food itself, as well as the water column. To me, the food method has been more effective for wasting disease, if the fish are still eating.

Usually when pregnant platys are getting close to dropping fry, they get a bit boxy, or square looking, It is hard to tell from those pics, but she does look quite big. If there's a male in the tank (or was recently), I'd say yes.

Great advice above from FrozenFins, especially on how to eliminate stress. What is special about this forum is we can generally all agree that there are multiple ways to achieve success. The only place I would differ would be with food, and here is my rationale. 1) Food provides nutrients, and will help the fish be stronger to fight an ailment. 2) It is an effective way to administer meds. For example, I have had good results with Kanaplex in the food, but not so much in the water column. In the case of Maracyn (As you mentioned you were using), you can effectively use a far smaller dose in the food, which would minimize harm to any good bacteria, especially since the tank is uncycled. 3) Eating is a good way to gauge progress (or lack thereof) when a fish is fighting (or developing) an ailment. Just my .02 cents. Everyone on this forum is here to help. We have all been there, and all learn as we grow. Please keep us posted. EDIT: You may want to test your tap water, and see how close or different it is from the parameters you posted.

So first and foremost: We ALL make mistakes. That is how we learn. Try not to beat yourself up, which can be hard in itself. On to the fish: You still have a fighting chance. If the fish ate, that is a great sign. You are on the right track. What you need most is stability. Here is my recommendation: 1) Don't worry that the hospital tank isn't cycled. You will counter that with regular partial (keyword:partial) water changes. By regular, you may want to start with an easy measurement. If the tank is 1.5 gallons...perhaps change 0.5 gallons every other day. essentially 1/3 every other day. You can even do 1/3 daily, if you are up for it. 2) Buy Seachem Prime as the dechlorinator. It not only dechlorinates, but has the potential to detox any potential Ammonia and Nitrite by binding it up for 48 hours, approx. (At your lower PH level., a small amount of ammonia should not have much, if any toxicity.) 3) Aquarium Salt. It will help the fish heal, especially since you are showing outer scale and finrot issues. Combined w/ clean water, salt does wonders. I would start with a teaspoon and a half for the tank (to match the gallons). If you change .5 water, add .5 teaspoon of salt back in. Salt plus clean water does wonders. (You can up the dosage more, but I'd start there). 4) Maracyn can help. Follow the directions. If a waterchange interferes with the dosages, just try to account for adding the maracyn that was removed. (similar to the salt). You can sprinkle a bit of maracyn on the food, and let it soak in a touch of tank water to absorb the meds. It helps, and it can get medicine directly in the gut of the fish, where it can work the fastest. 5) Temperature: I am assuming you have a heater. I have read that Bettas do best around 80, possibly 81 degrees. Try to keep the temp stable, and at least around 78 or a few degrees above. (When water changing, try to match temp.) 6) Relax...and know that you are learning every step, and you will succeed. If not now (though I think you can), then very soon. If and when the betta heals up, you can certainly space out the water changes more based on parameters, once the tank fully cycles. You can do this!

As for the bubbler, I would try it. Bettas don't like much flow, but an airstone or two shouldn't add much flow. I actually have 2 sponge filters in a 5.5 gallon hospital tank, and the aeration is welcome. (It's not bettas, though). Try it. I doubt it would hurt, and given his behavior, there's a solid chance it could help. It sounds like you overreacted (It's okay....we all do it) when you had that smell, and shook the tree quite a bit. Don't worry, you are on the path back to stability. It is actually a good thing to recognize where the problem may have originated, to prevent it in the future. Add the salt, and the airstone. Keep that nitrite down. Don't overfeed. (You can add a bit of Maracyn to the food if you'd like, but I'd leave that to plan B if the fin rot doesn't improve, as Maracyn can harm the beneficial bacteria, especially of a non-mature tank). I think you'll see improvement soon.

Here's my .02 cents: Do your best not to panic, and change a million things. (I know...it can be difficult.) From the pics, I don't see Ick, but it does look like some fin rot may be present. Why?....probably stress from the nitrites, as you had 1.0ppm prior to the water change. It looks like your tank may not be cycled, as you have 0 nitrates. So clean, fresh water should help the situation. The fish can certainly undergo stress with the presence of ammonia or nitrites. So your best first step would be to keep both at 0, or as close to 0 as you can. Rather than do a large 75% change, it may be better to do 2 smaller 50% changes in the AM and PM. Smaller water changes change things more gradually. Remember, stability is what you are aiming for. Prime can help detox any Ammonia/Nitrite (subject to debate)that may be present as well. Throughout the above, I would add the salt as recommended. Remember, when you water change, only replace the amount of salt you removed. And remember to dechlorinate. I don't have a betta, but I always read good things about the almond leaves. You can also add an extra air stone. When you raised the temp, and you saw the fish struggle a bit more, it could be because higher temps can "require" more oxygen. Between the salt and the fresh, clean water, and extra air, I think the fin rot can start to heal in very short order. And remember...try not to stress. You got this!

I also think it would be wise to try to get the Nitrates down a bit, as that can, and probably has added to the the stress level of the fish if it has been at that level constantly. KH is 0, which can also be concerning, as it can result in rapid PH fluctuations, or a PH crash.

First and foremost, kudos for giving that goldfish love, care, and devotion while treating something very difficult like dropsy. Much improvement is visible from the pictures! Normally, folks say not to mix 2 different antibiotics at a time, but whatever you are doing is definitely working. It's hard to say if it will come back, as most don't get a second chance. I think a long term goal would be to eliminate any stress that was present before, as dropsy can appear as a symptom when something else is wrong. Stability and a low-stress environment are ideal. Keep up the good work. Thanks for keeping us posted!

I would add some Aquarium salt, and a broad spectrum antibiotic, like Kanaplex.

The dewormer would be a logical option. I look at it like this: doing nothing isn't working, if the fish hasn't eaten for weeks. I think it's time to do something, and something logical would be a dewormer such as Levamisole (Expel-P) or Flubendazole.

I would use the Ick-X. I have used it successfully with livebearers. I didn't go past 81, as I didn't want to introduce too much additional stress to the fish. They already had Ick, and now they are subjected to a med. To me, 81 was enough, and then I treated for 7 days after last visible signs disappaered, just to be sure.

Thanks guys. I suppose I don't need an alarm.....but certainly want one. I would be using the Inkbird as a failsafe, and not as the controller itself. If there isn't an alarm, and the heaters' thermostat sticks closed (on), then the Inkbird becomes the controller. Yes, it would certainly save the fish, but what is there to alert anyone to change out that heater? I suppose I'd have to be home to actually view it hitting the high threshold, and then watch which of the two heaters it actually is. Thanks again, folks. Appreciate all the input.

Thanks for the great info. As of now, I am pretty tied to getting an Inkbird, and also to having, and also to having the audible alarm. I am not home much during the week, and would want something that my wife would hear, as she's never in the same room as the tanks, nor does she have an interest in them. I guess the best way to ask my question is: - Is there a NON-Wifi Inkbird that has 2 heating plug inputs and an an audible alarm if it reaches is extremes?

I am looking to buy my first Inkbird. The models are a bit confusing. Here are my "requirements": 1) Dual heater plug input. (2 heaters specifically....I don't want cooling.) 2) High and Low audible alarm thresholds. (Alarm will sound if either is reached. I would want to set those thresholds). 3) NON-wifi. I did email them today, but then read they are offline for a week for Chinese New Year. I figured the Nerms here may be able to guide me. Thanks in advance.

Those last pictures really seem to show improvement. That is great news. Keep doing what youre doing, and keep us posted. Pullin' for ya!

It's tough to tell a difference, but don't let that discourage you. I second Garlic Guard to add to the medicated food, to make it more enticing. You want those meds to end up in the gut. Keep us posted here....I've got my fingers crossed.

Sending good vibes. Definitely Dropsy. The white mark doesn't look like Columnaris to me, but even if it did, Dropsy is your main fight here. It is tough. I have not treated it successfully, but I always feel like if the fish is eating, you have a fighting chance. Put the meds in the food. Don't stress over exact quantities....you really need to go with an all-or-nothing approach with dropsy, as it is a believe it is a symptom, and not a disease itself.

I have heard 1 pound per 10 gallons, if I remember correctly. It's not a super scientific thing. I have my substrate littered with it, along with a mesh bag in my HOB. Ultimately, it will just give you stability (KH) from a PH crash. In my case, my PH is too low for my livebearers, so I use it to raise KH, and in turn, PH.

So 7.8 to 6.2 is a big drop. Granted, that didn't necessarily happen overnight (and shouldn't have, with 80ppm KH), but that is a big difference nonetheless. Crushed coral will be your friend to maintain that KH/PH. I have found it best to use in an area with flow around/through it, such as a HOB filter. I can also work as gravel, though slightly less effective.

The test strip is enlightening. You have 0 KH (buffer). This can often lead to PH swings or even a PH crash. You look to be at 6.2, which is quite low for livebearers. But if that 6.2 is fluctuating or crashing....that can be where the "problem" lies. Crushed coral should bring up and maintain your KH. In my opinion....that would lend itself to stability. EDIT: In addition to adding the crushed coral (which would be a logical next step), I think it would be worth it to test the tap water you use for your waterchanges, to see where PH and KH are, right from the source. That can indicate how much of a "swing" the tank has undergone.

Livebearers generally thrive on high mineral content, specifically GH. I have found PH to be related to KH, but GH to be independent of those two. I think it is worth testing in your case. (Specifically GH and KH)