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Tony s

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Everything posted by Tony s

  1. Very nice, you must be so relieved.😃
  2. As long as they’re not showing signs of being underfed, every other day is fine, you’re not going to starve them. If they start to lose weight, feed more. Or feed every day still, but half as much
  3. I’m not sure I would move anything. You may have a ton of shrimp under there and not notice. Clean what you can, the rest will be fine
  4. @beastie And ,honestly, you could go up in size with fewer tanks. Get more of what you like. Much less of what is just meh. It doesn’t really take that much more time to maintain fewer, bigger tanks. One really big tank filled with your favorites is enough.
  5. You can if you’re careful. After a few days if there’s no movement, you can pull gently on the trap door. If there’s resistance, it’s still alive. Dead snails pop out of the shell with little resistance. But be careful not to pry too hard.
  6. This! Absolutely. Unless it stinks it’s still there. I once had one crawl out and look dried out. Threw it back in and an hour later it was going again
  7. There was a post a couple of months ago. talks about what materials are aquarium safe https://forum.aquariumcoop.com/forum/22-community-resources/
  8. yeah, i use those on my ro. they are a way to regulate the kh of the water. they don't do much with the gh. for that you'd need equilibrium. which only raises gh
  9. Congrats!!! We've helped raised 30 kids from people with that kind of problem. I get how difficult it is. I've watched people choose that over their kids. and you know they don't want to, but they stop believing they can kick it. So very nice job, hoping it's getting easier for you!
  10. what you were doing is a type of ghost feeding. the rotting meat and/or rotting fish food supplies ammonia for the cycle. adding ammonia is just a more direct method to do the same thing. you can also do a fish in cycle where fish provide the ammonia
  11. As long as you have measurable ammonia your cycle will progress. It’s better to do the 2 ppm to get a stronger colony. It may take a bit longer when keeping the numbers down. That’s all.
  12. That’s exactly why I don’t have a fish room. I really don’t want to be down there by myself. Instead I’ve covered most of the flat surfaces and empty spaces with fish. And my wife is only partially annoyed…. Most of the time 🤣 @beastie everyone slows down from time to time. As long as you’re not damaging your animals, it’s fine. Sometimes reducing tanks helps. Trying something new helps. Or taking breaks helps. If it feels like work, you’re doing it wrong. It’s a hobby, it’s supposed to be fun. But the hobby requires a lot of work. That’s what Cory from coop has been saying. It’s better to do less, and enjoy more. Maybe find what you really like, add more of it. Eliminate everything that’s not part of that. One tank, your favorite animal. That would be enough. Or just take a complete break, do what’s best for you. Cause if you don’t love it, you may end up hating it.
  13. The question is where do you want your water to be at. Hard water high ph is normal for most people. And most of your fish will be fine in it. Most will even spawn. If you can get the water down to mostly neutral ph, you should really be good. Ro is about the only way you’ll move those values that much. Yes you’ll probably “waste” some water creating Ro as it goes through the membrane. Not really wasted, it’s going to get recycled at your treatment plant. But costs a bit more is all. You’d need a ton of organic materials to get softer water and I really don’t think you can consistently get there. Ro is easier. Then mix your Ro with your tap and get a number you can live with. Easier to mix with tap instead of adding chemicals back in to your Ro. And wouldn’t worry a ton about the plants either. Water that’s high in minerals is good for plants.
  14. Mystery snails do a good job of cleaning without damaging live plant tissue
  15. Just one word….Patience!🤣🤣. It’ll clear no problem at all. Go ahead and start your fishless cycle.
  16. Agree with that completely. I’ve only ever been successful with antibiotics. Even in weak doses like in slime out. Actually still not completely done with it, or something. Turns into a hard leathery coating. Can’t seem to shake it. Darn stuff has completely covered my mopani. Even coats snail shells 😟
  17. Not sure this works for Cyanobacteria. The only for sure was is to treat it like a bacterial infection. And use erythromycin in the tank. Either maracyn or EM erythromycin.
  18. @Unemployed Fish Nerd yeah, I look at site like that, and i think "why on earth didn't I do That" then I remember, when I got my degree there was no internet
  19. the sponge cleaners that coop sells are basically the same as the magic eraser also. yeah, we learn all kinds of weird tricks here. I would've never thought that in a million years, then @Guppysnail mentioned it.
  20. Not enough biomass there to cause a spike
  21. I’d leave the sponge in. Not for any filtration. Leaving it in and going keeps it full of beneficial bacteria. Then if needed you could use it for a quarantine tank. Or even starting a new tank. Just lots of ways to use a seeded sponge I currently have 2 spares. Had 3, but instantly cycled a new guppy tank with one.
  22. Tony s

    Severum Help!

    Paracleanse may work, not sure if it’s parasitic though. Run the course like it says now. But keep an eye on it. If it gets worse you may need something for bacteria. Maracyn2 or kanaplex for instance. Good luck on your guy. Those are some I really want to try 😀
  23. Tony s

    Severum Help!

    That can be harder with these. Basically lawn mowers with fins. 🤣 I have no idea where I heard that description, but I just love it! any plants would need to be kept in a sump. Which is not actually a bad idea for them.
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