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Tony s

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Everything posted by Tony s

  1. actually, as long as it's clean, it's decent. what concerns me more is hard or soft. If we advocate for snails and your ph is 6, you'll be constantly adjusting your hardness. same with livebearers. best way is to match our fish recommendations to your specific water. There are great choices either way.
  2. drain it almost to the bottom. it's not so much that it's heavy. It is Very awkward to carry. carrying extra weight makes that worse. you might either leave just enough for your wcmm, or net the out and move it
  3. @HansE do you know your water parameters at the school? specifically the ph gh and kh. those numbers will directly affect what you can easily do. Some fish will adapt to anything. some need harder or softer water.
  4. It’s either ich or epistylis. Epistylis if it’s raised up off the body a bit and gets on the eyes. Ich usually won’t get on the eyes. Not sure there is such a thing as stress ich. Just regular ich that has presented itself after the fish gets under stress. Kind of like you getting a cold when your body gets run down. Problem being identification. Ich is a parasite, epistylis is bacteria. And they have opposite treatment methods. For ich you use high heat, salt, and ich x. For epistylis, you need either maracyn2 or kanaplex and lower heat. Epistylis gets worse quickly under heat. @Colu has the best treatment regimen.
  5. I have no idea. But have heard that it’s actually mined from dry land deposits. Kind of the same way we would harvest limestone for calcium. Personally, when I remineralize my Ro. I use seachem equilibrium. And get my gh set before I add it to the tank. That way I can keep it stable. The only gh is what I add to the tank. haven’t kept a lot of nerites, but have kept a ton of mystery. Sometimes they just rest. Sometimes they are busy going everywhere. Have caught mine riding upside down on floating plants. Jumping from the top of things to float down happens often. Have you got enough algae for food. A couple of my tanks won’t grow algae. So need wafers for food. the other issue you may have. All nerite snails are wild caught. So nobody really knows how old they are. You could have an old snail and have no idea. So for the coral. A mesh bag in back of the hob is easiest. How long it last depends on your tank. The less it has the faster it will use it.
  6. never thought about that. @clownbaby neons and cardinals need at least 75 degree water. green neons and green fire tetras can go to 72
  7. there are some very cool new tetras if you can find them. green fire tetras, diamond head tetras, racoon tetras, gold tetras. gold neons. lots of tetras. depends on what you like
  8. around us, it is true unfortunately. just off the bat, we expect at least a 50% loss in the first 3 months. after the first 3 months, the weaker ones have gone and what's left usually lasts for the time they should. even have this problem with some lfs sources. the hobby just goes through millions and millions of these fish. the genetics have gotten off track and are now weak. good sources still exist, but you have to hunt for them, and they're not going to be 1.95 per fish. wild caught should also be fine. Dan's fish or aqua huna should be good.
  9. Could be. especially from big box stores. I wouldn't necessarily think that would be the case for local stores though. but only so many sources of guppies. unless they're bred locally
  10. @GuppyLover123 this method works really well for new tanks. take your old media, usually a sponge filter or cartridge and add it to the new tank. almost an instant cycle. I usually keep spare sponges running in old tanks for this. they are already seeded with bacteria, so you're basically transferring an active cycle. works well for quarantine tanks also
  11. as long as they're actively monitoring and doing daily water changes, that shouldn't be an issue. It's just a fish-in cycle at this point. as long as the ammonia never get past 0.25 it's okay. 3 main ways to do cycles. fish-in, ghost feeding, or fishless. all of them work usually more than 10 degrees colder or warmer. when doing massive changes, it's easy to get the temp off. causes undue stress.
  12. Normally I'd say they should be fine. and you're doing big water changes so there shouldn't be excess ammonia. any temp swings? using dechlorinator? I used that site to source my guppies. excellent guppies
  13. Saw this, thought you might like these. especially the green fire tetra. you'd need an online source for them though
  14. Agree. My supplier has them listed anywhere from 64 to 80. But who wants to live in the extremes🤣 Moderate temperatures would be better.
  15. If you're getting them from big box pet stores. chances are not very good at keeping them alive. I tried several times and just couldn't do it. I recently purchased some higher end guppies from an online retailer for my daughter, and the guppies are doing great. No losses and very active and playful. They even took the time to acclimate them to fresh water, so I didn't have to. So, I'm thinking it's not you, it's the source
  16. Welcome to the forum. Ask lots of questions, we like to help. and I bet puppers likes to watch Fish TV. I know our cats do.
  17. Yep, can absolutely do this with females. still bettas though and can still be tricky. I think the best strategy there is to overwhelm their pecking order and confuse them as to who's supposed to be picked on. We do this with livestock all the time to prevent them from fighting one of my favorite sorority videos. I would like to try this someday
  18. I'd still another one. 54 corner is a bit of an odd shape (but cool). but heavily planted you should have plenty of room for a friend. and that by itself may bring him out. Or... you'll have 2 hiding ropefish 🤣
  19. anything limestone based will raise ph and gh. I believe those include seiryu stone and ohko stone and texas holey rock. granite based stone are inert. think basalts, granite, slate and won't do anything. sandstone based rocks may (probably will). easiest way to tell is if you put vinegar onto the surface and it fizzes. it will raise gh
  20. Right. Bettas and other fish are very adaptable. as long as we're consistent. There are a few species that have trouble with hard water and high ph. but really not that many. most do fine.
  21. For your snail. Neutral ph or higher is best.if it’s reading around the 6.8. It looks like that’s what it reads? It should still be okay. Kh is not an issue. Gh should be higher than 140 for shell strength. You could feed calcium supplements if not. It’s a bit difficult for me to tell exactly what your strips say. But appears to be okay
  22. Understand. And if you rent/ lease, the property owner isn’t going to pay for the upgrades.
  23. No. Definitely not an emergency. Kh is mostly used to stabilize your ph. There are many places that have no kh to speak of. It’s usually just fine. As long as you’re aware of it. And keep up on your water changes. It’s best to just use the water you have.
  24. I must admit, that’s a new one for me. Never heard of doing it that way. Our normal tap is about 15dgh and we treat every bit of water we use.it’s connected to the water supply before using it. Doing it this way helps to increase the lifespan of most appliances. Things like water heaters, dishwasher, ice makers. The aerators on all faucets stay cleaner as well. It also has a noticeable effect on your skin and hair from the shower. But each place is different. Nothing wrong with what you’re doing, just a different method.😃
  25. Honestly, I usually don’t worry about ph/kh. As long as it’s consistent fish adapt just fine. Carbonates in water are not going to do a lot but buffer and stabilize your ph. The high amount of calcium/magnesium could cause issues. If you can get it to 10 dgh you should be fine. If your co2 system is new, run that for a few weeks or a month. Learn it first. Figure out what it does to your water. We often try to change too much at once and miss learning things we should. Most times patience works in our favor.
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