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Tony s

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Everything posted by Tony s

  1. Tony s
    Small groups of honeys shouldn’t need one. They’ll just hang together. I’d stay away from dwarf gourami. They’re grumpy. Possibly pear gourami would work. If they’re not too big for pigmies
  2. Tony s
    No, they’re good. Actually not sure how to sex them. And I’ve got some older ones For the most part, absolutely. There is one member who kept them in large groups with no issues. 7+. Then by all means, make them the focal point of your tank. Maybe just the 3 gourami and the rest in pigmies. The more you have, the more natural the behavior you’re going to see. You might even get better breeding behavior with this. But if the breeding is what you want, species only would also be good. 30+ pigmies of all sizes could be a great tank
  3. Tony s
    Right. At this point I’d do the whole tank. Or they could end up chasing it around
  4. Tony s
    Crushed coral works the safest. You can add it to the substrate. Or in a mesh bag behind a hob filter if you have one. Or just in a mesh bag near a sponge. That will raise it slowly giving your corys a chance to adjust. Pigmy’s don’t necessarily like hard water. The other way is to do it chemically via seachem equilibrium. Using it you could pinpoint exactly the gh you want. It’s what I use, you’d only add it back to water at water changes. Taking your gh to the level you want the new water to be. Don’t add on top offs only. But if you’re not seeing thinning and cracking of the shell, it may not help. Good luck
  5. Tony s
    Yeah, prepping the area well is going to be essential anyway. Sounds like a good reason to get a new cordless grinder and a wire wheel. Otherwise that’s a lot of elbow grease for the whole tank
  6. Tony s
    Unfortunately, when we get them, we have no idea how old they actually are either, probably several months to 6 months old. And that subtracts from their time with us. If your waters clean, you’re really doing the best you can.
  7. Tony s
    True, but eventually it will go through. It’s not that thick. And just painting over won’t stop the rust. It’ll just eat through the painted liner. @gabdewulf I like that idea. I was going to suggest painting, but pond liner should be great.
  8. Tony s
    That is very true. @BlueLineAquaticsSC if you paint it, you’ll want to paint the whole inside of the tank. The area not in contact with the rust will stay white, but still harden just fine. The problem being, if you don’t cover all the rust, it will come back in that area
  9. Tony s
    There may be, or at least slow it down. They make a paint that binds to rust and hardens. Changing colors from white to black as it does. We have used it before on steel projects we were building. But those projects were not constantly submerged after. If you have something like an Ace hardware with a paint department, I’d check with them. Needs to have metal specific paints, not sure big home stores will have what you need. Possibly tractor supply. Not even sure about Sherwin Williams as they handle mostly house paint. btw, 50+ years ago, we had one of those in our back yard. 12 ft wide. It was our first swimming pool. It was actually very fun. We used to be able to create a giant whirlpool in it 🤣
  10. Tony s
    Yeah, that’s what I’m seeing. The whole thing is just very tight. Not much room to do anything. And putting it past the nut on the horizontal doesn’t excite me either. That piece is the glued in permanent connection to your drain waste vent. I know plumbers are expensive but you’d have trained eyes looking at it. Or go with the hose end temporarily in the sink itself. Third option, take and run your line sideways and back. Giving you room to add the saddle clamp. I wouldn’t worry about using a saddle clamp through the pipe. That pretty much standard procedure for any add ons.
  11. Tony s
    Treatment is up to you of course. If you think it’s slightly injured, observe and don’t treat. If you’re not sure, or it definitely looks like s, treat if you think it’s necessary. Treatment can affect your cycle. It doesn’t have to, but definitely can. You have to make that call. We can only see pictures, you get the first hand view
  12. Tony s
    The hardness is a good guppy thing. Assuming you’re softening filter doesn’t make it too soft. If it is columnaris it may have spread. So maybe you just treat their whole tank without quarantine. Hopefully curing everyone
  13. Tony s
    You’re going to need kanaplex or maracyn2 for treatment. I’m sure colu has other instructions as well.
  14. Tony s
    I agree if possible. Depends on the length of run of the horizontal pipe section if it will even fit. @Cjbear087 anywhere below the horizontal pipe section is not really an option. That section would be fluid filled at all times. It’s what traps your sewer gas from coming up. I wanted to check a couple of my connections before commenting. the horizontal section is best. If there’s not enough room there, the galvanized pipe is about the only other place left. But that’s a whole other problem. You may have to get a plumber for that. Plumber may be able to reroute the horizontal piece so it adds enough length. Possible coming in from the side, and not straight back.
  15. Tony s
    One more thought, since it’s not ich, you’re going to need to start a treatment relatively quickly.
  16. Tony s
    Your gh and kh may actually be a bit low for neos. They need a bit of hardness to help create their shells. So no. I wouldn’t add any softener. You should be good
  17. Tony s
    Ich looks more like salt grains evenly distributed. That looks more like columnaris @Colu going to need your water parameters, temp. tank mates
  18. Tony s
    question is, even if you could get rid of the smell. Would you trust it?
  19. Tony s

    Fin Tear?

    Tony s replied to Maya's topic in General Discussion

    kanaplex will also work. both of those are good broad-spectrum meds. But @Colu would know the right way. but @Maya parameter numbers would be good, and temp. and any other tankmates as well
  20. Tony s

    Fin Tear?

    Tony s replied to Maya's topic in General Discussion

    Yeah, saw that too. but to me it looks like it's thinning tissue. ready to form even bigger rips. the bottom fins of the second photo appear dull grey to brown. Thin enough for light to go through
  21. Tony s

    Fin Tear?

    Tony s replied to Maya's topic in General Discussion

    It usually won't. but i think that's not the issue. 1 agree with @DBrown918 looks very much like fine rot. I'd get some maracyn2 and start him on that right away. from amazon, coop. or a local store. Follow the label very closely
  22. Tony s
    Nerites will lay eggs. little hard round dots, allover the place. but they need brackish water or saltwater to hatch. so no worries there. Unlike my mystery snails, which I let a clutch hatch and had over a hundred in my 75g. and it was fully stocked. but no water issues to speak of. snails cause much less water issues than most people think. Dead is easy, they usually fall right out of the shell. if there's resistance. not dead
  23. Tony s
    they should work just fine. I usually use the mystery snails though. Just because i have so many already. I wish i'd have chosen a better color though. instead of the plain white. nerites should stay small enough for you though. i have several mysteries that are as large as golf balls
  24. Tony s
    right. if you're running the ro after the softener, it's still going to be straight ro. It should even strip out the salt leftover from the softener
  25. Tony s
    @Guupy42 I actually had my own post yesterday. I rarely do that. I'm too self-conscious for that. bought my daughter guppies from an importer. never had guppies before. but do know how to take care of them. don't know how to take care of imported dish at all. 😁
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