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On 5/10/2022 at 5:27 PM, Mmiller2001 said:

'm having CO2 problems, and tomorrow, I'm going back to an inline CO2 diffuser. I'm pretty over reactors at this point. There's something to be said about a CO2 bubble resting on the plant. 

I'm surprised you decided to switch off of it!

 

 

On 5/10/2022 at 5:27 PM, Mmiller2001 said:

When I see a Dutch tank, I feel like I'm walking in a garden at some UK castle.

Very awesome.  I want a tank that reminds me of a kelp forest one day (I have the shark to go with it).   That's a place that inspires me.

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On 5/10/2022 at 5:27 PM, Mmiller2001 said:

Thank you very much. I will soon. I've been secretly converting my 75 gallon to be ready for the AGA 2022 Dutch Style, but I'm definitely struggling to get there. In hindsight, I should have been more patient with the 40 gallon as it has hit a stride I've never seen before!

I'm having CO2 problems, and tomorrow, I'm going back to an inline CO2 diffuser. I'm pretty over reactors at this point. There's something to be said about a CO2 bubble resting on the plant. 

I also just tore down my wife's 20 gallon so maintenance day should be easier. This is a quality of life improvement and I should be able to focus on the 75 gallon a bit more now.

Here is the winner of the 2019 AGA, one day I hope to have an imagination to create such a scape. Dutch style just captures my attention when it's done this well.

When I see a Dutch tank, I feel like I'm walking in a garden at some UK castle.

4145.jpg

Insane! How in the heck does that not cause immediate green water?

Raj Mahakul has been doing experiments to see how far you can push high light, and also happens to be a very talented Dutch aquascaper. In his farm tank he has 515 par at the substrate level. He placed 3rd in the 2020 AGA competition and likely would have placed again in 2021 if not for an unfortunate error in his submission.

I love 2019's winning tank as well. It demonstrates masterful use of spacing between the plants. Chen Meng Chun submitted tanks for like 5 years before he won, it's really cool to go back and see how he gradually mastered the style.

 

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This journal is incredible. All of your pics are amazing. Your narration has been enjoyable to boot.

- What would you attribute a key to keeping your glass so clean, and your water so crystal clear?
 

- can you list the lights, substrate, and filtration you use for each tank?

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On 5/11/2022 at 6:41 PM, Jeff said:

This journal is incredible. All of your pics are amazing. Your narration has been enjoyable to boot.

- What would you attribute a key to keeping your glass so clean, and your water so crystal clear?
 

- can you list the lights, substrate, and filtration you use for each tank?

Thank you very much, I really appreciate the kind words.

The 40 is Landen Aquasoil and I run 2 Eheim Classic 350's (2215 Models).

The 75 is Eco Complete (I truly hate it FYI) and I run an Eheim Pro 4 600 and an Eheim Classic 2217. If I could start from the beginning again, I would do 1x2217 on the 40 and 2x2217 on the 75. It's an absolute beast of a filter and very affordable. 

Both tank have Chihiros WRGB II's.

Keeping clear water is directly related to high turnover in the tank, but keep flow not over powering. You want enough flow that mulm doesn't build up. Also, I keep no wood or rocks in the tank. If I have wood or really want to polish the water I use Purigen. I also run a UV sterilizer on the 75, that works just as well as Purigen, but also kills some types of algae.

As far as keeping the glass clean, a good weekly scrape works wonders but keeping NO3 as low as possible seems to keep GDA away. When I see GDA, I start backing down NO3 while keep PO4 and K at normal levels. Eventually, I hit a point when the GDA basically disappears. I might have to scrape once every 3 weeks. Having Oto's and algae eating snails pretty much keep it spotless once NO3 is lower. There's a side effect of low NO3 though, your plant growth slows quite a bit. This can be good or bad. If I need to fill in a tank fast, I go high and weekly scrape. If I need to slow growth to reduce cutting, I go low and ride the easy maintenance for a while.

Now that I have the 40 algae free, having a good aquasoil is pretty nice. I'm able to dose the tank lower but the plants still have access to higher levels of nutrients from the soil. This is clearly working and I would recommend aquasoils to anyone. They are tricky in the beginning and going forward, I would dark start all aquasoil tanks. Lights off for 3 months and forgo 2x3x water changes a week. That was rough and I gave up and BOOM, algae! If I would do inert substrates again, I would do pool filter sand or Peace River peebles.

Tommy Wong produces the API nutrient line, following his numbers has worked wonders!

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Did a big cut back on the 40 gallon plant repository. Added all the cherry barbs from my wife's tank we broke down. Things continue to do very well.

I also have not updated the 75 in a while. I've been trying to get it together for the AGA. When I gave up on the 40, I started trying the 75. This is probably the 5th redo on it and I might rearrange it again so forgive it's current condition. I few plants came in lackluster and are being nursed.

So I haven't given up just yet on getting an AGA submission at least.

PXL_20220512_224123016~2.jpg

PXL_20220512_224058959~3.jpg

Edited by Mmiller2001
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On 5/12/2022 at 6:55 PM, Mmiller2001 said:

Did a big cut back on the 40 gallon plant repository. Added all the cherry barbs from my wife's tank we broke down. Things continue to do very well.

I also have not updated the 75 in a while. I've been trying to get it together for the AGA. When I gave up on the 40, I started trying the 75. This is probably the 5th redo on it and I might rearrange it again so forgive it's current condition. I few plants came in lackluster and are being nursed.

So I haven't given up just yet on getting an AGA submission at least.

PXL_20220512_224123016~2.jpg

PXL_20220512_224058959~3.jpg

That lobelia cardinalis is look nice!

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On 5/17/2022 at 12:36 AM, Mmiller2001 said:

The bottom picture? If so, that's actually Hygrophila Serpyllum. It looks very similar but grows like a vine then it grows up. Very neat plant.

That would be the one. It does look very similar, does it have smaller leaves than lobelia cardinalis?

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I want to share this Praziquantel med that I came across. I've had problem with flukes in the past and I saw a few fish flashing in all my tanks, again. 

So I did my normal response, dose small tanks with General Cure and large tanks with Prazipro. I dose for 4 weeks straight and only the General Cure works. I refuse to spend General Cure prices to dose the 75 and so I found this product. Prazipro has let me down before and I won't buy it again.

25 grams costs 35 bucks and 1 gram treats 100 gallons. Not bad, and it's 1 dose each 7 days.

It literally worked over night. I'm very happy with it. I will dose for 4 weeks. I noticed Prazipro would really upset my plants. Some melted and some sections straight up turned brown. So far, this Praziquantel powder is very gentle. Maybe some ingredient in prazipro was a problem. But who knows.

PXL_20220520_014419044.jpg

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I'm going to start using my Nikon to take photos so I can learn this thing. My editing software is "odd", so if you can let me know how these look I would appreciate any details you could offer. I can tell already, even at max settings, I will need more light some how. I have to bump ISO up to get a decent shutter speed which I believe is the cause of so much noise.

Let me know. Today is maintenance day so the tanks are a bit ratty. A couple of plants are in transplant shock it seems. Hopefully they recover soon. The Giant Baby Tears is definitely agitated.

The Star grass is too much and too many even size plants in the background. I'm still having trouble creating depth as well.

40 5.25.22 edited.jpg

75 5.25.22 Edited.jpg

75 5.25.22 Edited Marked.jpg

Edited by Mmiller2001
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You just need a foreground group IMO and it will help a lot with height variation. Maybe adding a group that goes from high in the background to the foreground to make the layout seem more "integrated." That street could also curve a bit more and get thinner in the background to create more depth. Currently it's more of a straight line.

Edit: Also just wanted to say that you're doing great and all the plants look healthy. Now's the fun part when you can work on that perfect trimming and composition.

Edited by gjcarew
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On 5/25/2022 at 11:41 AM, Mmiller2001 said:

I can tell already, even at max settings, I will need more light some how.

This I can actually help you with.

https://lumecube.com/products/panel-mini

 

It helps to have an extra tripod or three. Depending on your camera and the lighting on your tank, you may need more than one of these lightboxes to get the clarity you need in your photographs. This is the less expensive version of the light Josh Sims uses to photograph his award winning tanks.  I learned about how to angle the lights properly (behind and above your shoulder, either with an assistant moving the light for you, or with a tripod you can adjust as needed) from a class on aquarium photography taught by Max Cardenas. To add depth to the aquarium, a second square light may be needed coming in from the side.

For the judging on jungle style and nature scapes, a square light is used coming in above the horizon line at a 45° on each front corner. I'm not sure how the difference in shadow requirements affect the light placement for Dutch style. I do know that the lightbox by lumecube has excellent results for everything except highspeed video needs. The biggest difference seems to be cost, unless you are moving into professional film.

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On 5/26/2022 at 2:51 PM, Torrey said:

This I can actually help you with.

https://lumecube.com/products/panel-mini

 

It helps to have an extra tripod or three. Depending on your camera and the lighting on your tank, you may need more than one of these lightboxes to get the clarity you need in your photographs. This is the less expensive version of the light Josh Sims uses to photograph his award winning tanks.  I learned about how to angle the lights properly (behind and above your shoulder, either with an assistant moving the light for you, or with a tripod you can adjust as needed) from a class on aquarium photography taught by Max Cardenas. To add depth to the aquarium, a second square light may be needed coming in from the side.

For the judging on jungle style and nature scapes, a square light is used coming in above the horizon line at a 45° on each front corner. I'm not sure how the difference in shadow requirements affect the light placement for Dutch style. I do know that the lightbox by lumecube has excellent results for everything except highspeed video needs. The biggest difference seems to be cost, unless you are moving into professional film.

This is great. Thank you.

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I'm just loving the repository 40 gallon. It's has reached pure easy mode. Not a spec of algae anywhere. And the Cherry Barbs look amazing under a Chihiros. And oddly, like the just placed anywhere plants. I know, weird!

1675327031_PXL_20220528_2309550743.jpg.2a9009cf944979db18be0c698d8622d7.jpg

I'm probably going to start front loading the 75. I'm feeling like I want to slow growth more and I'm close to kinda saying, this is about as good as I can do this year. Per @gjcarewrecommendation, I'll probably remove the Giant Baby's Tears and put a low grower carpet there and call it a day. My goal it to have an entry that follows the rules, not win the competition. I feel like the street is too left and I should have some angle go right. Maybe. I should probably make the Erectus a smaller group and go more left with the carpet. Anyway so...

 

PXL_20220528_230844344~2.jpg

PXL_20220528_230844344~4.jpg

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I'm definitely having fun and the wife is constantly happy with the tank as well. I just have so many projects going at the moment that honestly, im exhausted. Truth be told, I'm frustrated with the 18 inch depth of a 75 gallon too. It is making things a bit more annoying 😁. I will get there, there's still plenty of time.

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