nabokovfan87

Zoey and her bro Buddy. 😂 That little fuzzball.

Mine were slightly happy to have the "extra space" without the little bits of seiryu stone in the way for a little bit. I still haven't put it back in yet, but I did have a question. Maybe this is one for the FAQ, but... If the tank doesn't have any algae eaters, the best thing to do is manual removal after treatment. If the tank does have algae eaters, depending what type, the best bet is likely to remove what you can but let them handle it once it's added back to the tank. Sound about right? I'm assuming that if left in the tank to wither away, it could just potentially cause excess rotting plant matter and then cause some algae.

Woot Woot!!! Happy times. Good to hear. Let's keep that up Moby!

It very well could be lower, but it looks higher to me. It looks like a dark red, not a faint red color. One of those things where the photo might not translate well. I put it into a colorblindness simulation and turned the dials until it was a bit easier to read. Based on lighting, etc., it might be difficult to read for us on this side 🙂 That's why I was just trying to understand what your maintenance is like and if you recently dosed and that would start to explain the value. Please keep in mind, 40 ppm Nitrate or below is pretty normal, but it's hard for me to tell if it's 20 or 80 ppm.

The cory does look very thin to me. It's fins look clamped and it generally looks pretty worse for wear. This just means I would basically treat for everything. The easiest thing to do is to start with Maracyn, salt, ich-X and then treating for parasites after the fish has had a little bit of time to recover. More than likely you're looking at 2 rounds of bacterial meds for this particular corydoras before you'll really see much improvement, if any. I don't know if this is simply a genetic issue, or if this guy has just been through some pretty severe trauma. I wish him the best and I hope things improve for the both of you. (see more on this below) I recently saw another discussion of this and it looks like eco complete is small lava rocks. This is pretty sharp and pretty dangerous for corydoras in my opinion. Someone else might have kept them on there and report that everything is fine, but in what I can see and have seen in previous photos elsewhere the substrate looks very sharp. Corys will dig their nose into the substrate to look for food and the sharp fine edges on the rock are like razors to their barbels and stomachs. If you see cuts, missing pieces of barbels, or if you see scars on them I would recommend removing them and replacing the substrate or capping it. Nitrates are very very high (looks over 40 to me, potentially 30-80ppm). Did you recently dose fertilizer? What is your maintenance schedule and method? If you have a QT tank, I would move him immediately into a QT situation, even a bucket or tub to treat him away from everyone else. Any sort of a plastic tub, sponge filter, that is the best way to handle this. Depending on the size of your main tank, I would treat that as well, at least one round. You might skip the salt on the main tank just because of the plants, but ich-X, parasite meds, and maracyn are fine to use. Your pandas that are older definitely look healthy and look to be doing ok. Is it possible to lower temps to 72-74? If you haven't, please head to AqAdvisor and input all of your fish and tank settings. If you need any help please just let me know and I can help you figure it out. It is a good tool to flag any issues and will give you a good idea of where to have something like temp, water changes, etc. and show any real compatibility issues.

My goodness. Those poor Corys! Let me review everything.

Totally looks like Cosmo to me! Beautiful mudskipper 🙂

Is that lava rock?

I honestly thought I was going to see some 1/4" size fish! Crazy. I have had fry, but never timed it out or had eggs and then hatched them, only colony breeding. Super interesting stuff!

Should be fine. I've used Erythromycin with my amanos and pandas many times. I had some barbs that went to town on one another a bit too often or had wounds from the seachem tidal. I am going to be running maracyn in about a week if you want to wait for confirmation (just send me a DM). I wanted to ask, please take a few photos of the pandas and try to show more of the fish itself. It might be cloudy eyes, might be what you're describing, I just think we need a better view. Do the fish appear thin at all? Are the eyes cloudy or specifically popped out? It can be caused by a fatty deposit behind the eye or a bacterial issue. Please also be sure to let us know all water parameters you can test including temperature. Finally, is that substrate eco complete?

Weight results on the "mech" type of ceramic media that can be used in the bottom of the tidals. Note: Viability of these is not proven or tested, this is simply to show the difference in weight. We do know biomax will not work well because it is too light. Aquaclear Biomax: 0.9g per piece (This is not a mech type of media, but what I had available, it will easily hold air internally) Sicce Bioker / Eheim Mech: 1.6g per piece (will not hold air) Fluval "Fluval Pre-Filter Media" mech: 3.5g per piece (about 2x the size of the standard mech, slightly porous, but will not hold air)

There is one called rhabdocoela, but in terms of the color that points to a planarian type of worm. There are several different shapes and types. Let me see if I can find the article I was reading yesterday. https://rsscience.com/planarian/ If it's a round shape, tube shape, it's probably detritus worms (do not take that as confirmation), but if it's flat shaped I would review the information above.

Doesn't look like planaria to me. Try ti clean the glass, at night try to check for them again and get a better photo. Also, check if they are free floating and try to record a video of their movement. Here is the video and stuff I gathered on my worms.

I had my panda horde in a 10G and their behavior was so different than normal. This was due to the number in there of course, but it was the only place I had for them at the time. If you can swing it, try to get a 20L over a 10G any day of the week! Either case, all the replies above all are correct on the subject.

Cut a square, it doesn't have to be big at all, and then drop it in the tank and see what color it turns. If you have a weird issue it'll alert you. It's one of those things I wish I had on hand just for this scenario. Run the carbon for 24-48 hours, 50% WC and then I would proceed with meds immediately. Chin up, he's definitely still recovering! The big issue has been that wound on the body. Have to get through that, then the rest will come.

Agreed @FLFishChik I need to buy smaller sizes of jars and not have so much sitting around. I tend to use containers at each tank, then I have the bulk of it in a minifridge. It's the best I can do, but it's not something where I feel like I'm ever going to use this stuff quickly enough.

I am definitely not this structured! 29G - Black Corys (Otos, Corys, Clown Plecos, Shrimp, Plants) 2x a week - Easy Green Morning, usually after coffee they get food Evening, usually right before dinner they might get more food 29G- Panda Horde, Grace the Shark Lights are staggered to the PM hours 1x a week - Easy Green Evening, lots of food for these guys Morning, Sometimes they get food (more often than not) Foods, randomly chosen, never repeated: Frozen: Mysis, Bloodworms, Spirulina Brine Dry: Vibra bites, Xtreme flake (blend of spirulina and krill flake), algae wafers Gel: Repashy Soilent Green, Community Blend, or Bottom Scratcher for invertivores. Note: If your fish like bug bites, check out bottom scratcher. Generally speaking, my goal is to feed them dry food 1x a day. Rotate repashy in over night or in the mornings when I'm busy with random stuff and I can just drop it in. Frozen foods every other day.

Got sick of waiting for the snail to finish the ring for tricks and treats.

Shouldn't be, but either way it should work out fine. I think a lot of the concern is because you're thinking that you're making things worse. Everything I am seeing, you're doing everything I would do and you're doing everything right. I think that temps or something caused the bacteria to perk back up and he's just been slowly recovering and trying to fight this thing off. I don't see the sand in his fins at all. I was trying to spot it to make sure it wasn't ich. With sand, I generally just use my hands and toss all the crap in the water column. With sand you can just use the siphon end and vacuum like any normal substrate. You'll suck up some of the sand, but it's all fine. I highly recommend the pinching method. The worms are a pain, especially on the water column and not having a real ID on them. Maybe @Biotope Biologist has an id for your worms or a suggestion to search down. At the very least my only real concern is if there is something to eat them, getting them in control, and verifying they aren't dangerous to humans. How long as he been off meds or salt at this point in time, if he has? Do you have Carbon you can run? I would try to wait 1-2 weeks as long as symptoms don't worsen. With gram negative and with Ich, I would suggest treating the tank itself. Sterilize / clean the equipment and let it air dry as best you can. UV also works to sterilize, so even having the stuff sit outside for a day works. Definitely have fun, and definitely don't bring a fish home right now! 😂

Cherish and focus on the good moments @Bev C My condolences. I think Marvin would express to you if possible, it was an accident and these things happen. You did everything you could for him and more. I am thankful he isn't in any more pain. I know what you're going through and it's never easy and never should be.

Algae shot! but, it's good to see the drop checker back to usual again. Cleaned it, set it up, and everything looks good now.

Easy green I keep out of light, Cory has mentioned it probably should be, but sometimes that can cause the pumphead to crust over. Prime no. Stressguard no. A lot of stuff is just out of light, away from heat and what not as best I can. They do have stuff like a peltier fridge that can go into the 70's without issue. Even keeping it inside of a insulated chest might help to keep the heat out, but that also might retain heat. If we all had cellars it would be awesome.

After 12 hours of treatment. Susswassertang: Anubias Nangi: Anubias Nana:

After you open any of them, you'd want to refrigerate it. This just keeps temps stable for the most part so it doesn't get too hot and also reduces light.

Yeah, they will need surfaces typically with aufwuchs. Wood, rocks, etc. Even a handful of substrate would have some. Feeding, fresh water, is also pretty critical. With shrimp and losses like that, the biggest thing I look at is acclimation. Some people recommend hours to acclimate highly sensitive species.