nabokovfan87

Ok. so then you need to add those fish to the tank and QT them in that situation. A better way to handle it is to move your currently QT'd fish to the display tank, clean or prepare your QT tank for the new fish, QT them for as long as possible. If the tank is cycled, planted, etc., that is how I would handle the situation.

That blue tail is really unique. Very cool stuff. Some amazing coloration on fish.

I would start with the apisto, then corys, then rasboras. Do you have a method to QT them seperately?

There was some details given here. Nothing specific yet.

@Ken Burkewhat do you think?

Looking good. Coffee and breakfast, what a nice morning!

I switched on my tank from a 24" light on 80-90% to a higher power version of the light that is 36" long. Ultimately it's 33% more LEDs and covers the tank a lot better. The plants did respond better, but so did the algae 😞 . I have it right now down to about 45-55% and I am still trying to outcompete the algae. I had to add some salt, plants died off, but needless to say the higher light demand plants had everything they needed and still weren't really growing all that well. It's a fickle mess. If you want to check it out, we can look / discuss it in my journal with all the photos and stuff.

Yep! They were just from the big box store locally, I ended up with 3-4, now I have a bit more 😂 Yeah, for sure. I think if they changed the label image or added other text to it, more people would purchase it.

I made this thread if you find anything super awesome to share as well 🙂 One of the biggest bits of advice I can give is to force yourself to do the soap test / leak check on everything. Start from the actual fitting on the CO2 tank itself to make sure there's no leaks there, then your first connection and so on. I went through an entire 10lb CO2 tank in about 3 days because of how leaky my work was and it's not a lesson I'd wish on anyone. It took me about 2 years to sort out a basic issue and I thought my regulator was broken because one of the dials was slightly loose. CO2 Art helped me work through the issue and run the tests, I realized I completely screwed up, and everything is up and running again. I am right there with you. Having "high tech" versions of CO2 is so easy and so simple to do, but that first step is just a tough one. I contemplated all of these other setups and even was going to try the ocean aquarium method to get it going. It's so nice to have once you do get it dialed in and working in your favor. Here is some hope for both of us, wishing for awesome plant growth in our tanks! I ran my water tests today, first time 0 nitrates again.

Because it's a rimless aquarium, because the base takes the load, and because the issue is right on the corner (more than halfway though the thickness of the glass) I wouldn't risk it. It very well could be fine, but know that you're at a pretty high risk of an issue. I would try to replace it if possible. This is definitely a bit of weight also. Just something to help decide what you try to do. Depending what's available, there might be a shop that is willing to replace the panel for you or that might be something you can do.

I don't know how the frogs will do with any meds. My apologies for that. I would treat this as a bacterial issue and try to treat with maracyn if at all possible. Given the variety of unknowns here, but seemingly some sort of a bacterial / internal infection it might be a last effort to try to help the betta get through this.

Please send me some details in a DM or something. Tell me all your secrets! 😂

This is because all humans and fish love Panda Corys. 🙂 Mine have a shark that plays with them. LOL

Yeah, Expel-P should help with that. Odd Duck's notes in my thread should be pretty solid to deal with it. Salt help a lot (I feel like) in my tank. Killed plants, but that's the cost.

In terms of treatment in the QT, what's in there right now? Almond leaves, salt, airstone, meds? Did you do any epsom salt baths, is that something you want to try in this situation? Lastly, in terms of food. I would only feed brine shrimp (if anything). Have you been fasting him at all or will he take food at all?

Can you please record a video and send some photos? The focus for me is going to be around your filtration, how is it setup and what is it?

They always have had 40-60% WCs on the tanks. I try to do bigger ones less often. Because the city keeps jacking with the water I am having a lot of random issues. First it was PH crashing, then my KH went down by 50%, then GH randomly seemed to drop. Just not easy on the poor guys. I'm focusing on feeding them more calcium and trying to make sure the food isn't the issue. As for the worms.... This is how I've been dealing with them if you want to dive down the rabbit hole.

I had a plethora of chaos happen, again, not entirely due to what you're going through. 1, surface film 2. added skimmer 3. removed extra filtration (was the 4th thing on the tank, not needed) 4. removed airstone, wasn't needed, planned to add CO2 5. oxygenation crashed 6. HoB filter clogged up with worms and slowed down 7. Detritus worms discovered 8. Cleaned everything, added airstone 9. Amano shrimp turned red (no fish signs of stress) 10. Foam happened, no ammonia, keep it clean, up maint, etc. 11. about 3-4 weeks later, I had a nitrite spike, then started losing amanos. I am pretty certain I am losing shrimp due to KH, PH, buffer, and PH spikes. Oxygenation was a concern, but they were specifically having issues trying to molt. Not fun. I can see the film stuff here, looks white to me, so I don't think it's a protein or from the food. In your case I would suggest: A. 50% WC B. Clean the lid, clean all the filters. Check your impellers, check all your airstones and clean them very well. C. When the tank is half full, clean the rim, make sure there's not any muck or anything from the air bubbles all over (I always do this when I clean the lid) Keep an eye on parameters and just make sure you have good clean water going in. Keep an eye for an unexpected spike randomly happening.

Just rinse it good. Eco Complete from what I'm seeing is literally just small lava rock turned into gravel with bacteria added. Don't rely on that bacteria after all this time and just rinse it, do your normal things like you would for any new tank.

Can you try to get a photo of the surface film itself from the top view without glass in the way? I've had similar issues and then randomly had other things happen as a result. I don't think it's anything about what you're running into, but I'm just curious what it is you're seeing. Same as you, 0 ammonia.

Grace the shark was going bananas yesterday so I tried to record the video of her cruising around. I set it to music. NEXT TIME, maybe I'll get it in focus. LOL. This is the panda horde, I promise there's ~30 pandas in there under the mopani. Edit/Update: A big thank you to @Zenzo and team ACO for the care package and the new repashy to try (Bottom Scratcher for Invertivores). I actually think it's one that a ton of people would have success with and my fish are going bananas for it!!! It was really good to see them this excited. First time ever they've had something with the black soldier fly larvae in the ingredients.

I mentioned earlier in that other thread some place the corys might like to lay. Some moss here would do nice too, especially with how that wood is shaped. I'm excited to see what happens! I might have to make some repashy tonight 😂

Should be perfectly fine. 🙂

Yep! should be fine! And if you don't have a super long tank, less of an issue entirely. I wouldn't sweat it unless you had something like a 40B or above.

Once you get to 50 posts there is a section that opens up where you can post here trying to find him a new home 🙂 Welcome to the forum! What an amazing setup! Welcome to the fun! Love the moss balls! Nice work 🙂 Welcome to the forum!