nabokovfan87

May or may not be related to what's going on, but this is worth a listen. His head looks to have that darkening on it indicated from the video as a common issue.

Raising it gradually would be fine. Look into a product like crushed coral in the substrate if you have white substrate or try to check into seachem alkalinity buffer as an additive. There is also KH+GH shrimp buffers available that keep things at a good ratio. Depending what the KH/GH are currently that's something you can check into. You can add a dose once a week, gradually raise it over time. Yes.

It has an English translation as well, great resource.

Pearlweed can be contained to short lengths too. Will grow longer.

It happens with a lot of moss. Basically that's just where the plant didn't get light or what it needed and that ended up dying back a little bit. Chopping it does tend to propagate the moss much quicker, so something like chopping it into small bits and gluing it could be used here. Jurijs has a good video on this. Another method would essentially be to wrap the moss around a rock. You can keep it where you have it, but maybe when you do a WC if it's not secured then you'll have it floating around. The final awesome way to use moss is a moss ledge or a background wall of moss. Love this plant! Just make sure the rhizome isn't buried. Only the roots need to be. You can also push the light a little forward if you see algae start to grow on the leaves on this plant or anything in the back that might be less demanding. I would tend to do one or two bigger water changes so that you drop the levels down. Say ~20ppm and then that's your baseline. Once you get near 50 you can have some issues with fish health over time. I'd have to pull the studies from aquaculture on the topic, but those are out there as well. You would test your GH and KH levels. Does not impact easy green in any way.

Welcome. It is and it isn't! Green aqua has some really helpful videos for planted tank basics and they give you pretty good detail. One of the ones I would recommend is the "water parameters" video. Basically, in addition to things like ferts, light, co2, gh, and kh play a role in the health of a planted tank. Think of GH/KH as your "mineral ferts". I am sure you'll have more questions, please feel free to ask!

Looks good then! Probably is just cycled, doing well, and has very low bioload.

basically similar product. One is plaster of paris with some stuff mixed in and the other is just powder form of a few items. I prefer equilibrium because it's cheap(ish) and it's easy to use.

Basically it goes across the top of the tank, down the sidewall, then it goes across the length of the tank substrate... towards the inlet flow to remove the waste. The only real issue / question is whether or not the the intake siphon is strong enough to remove the waste. some of them aren't designed very well.

I've had mine on up to 1 tbsp of salt per 2 gallons. Briefly on 1 tbsp of salt per 1 gallon

Can you elaborate on what the filter looks like right now? Please feel free to share a photo or video of the filter running on the tank. Maybe it will indicate something. Did you ever use anything like stability or fritz zhyme 7? Basically you might just have very low bioload. No ammonia, no nitrite is good. Every test, liquid or strip has a chance of being invalid, contaminated, or perfect.

Unfortunately it is part of the lengthy of the tank and the height of the tank. When you say you have the spraybar, how is it mounted and how is it pointing? This was my setup on a 75G. The 55g is just a little narrower front to back. You would have to cut the pipe to size a little bit, but there is one side that doesn't have holes so it kind of works easily to find out how to cut the spraybar down.

A 307 or 407 makes it pretty easy and they are designed with the spraybar kit for that tank. That's where I would start. Sales on the website, etc. make it easier for you, but I would recommend things like swapping tubing out. There's directions on youtube and it's a very easy mod to accomplish. I swapped mine with 16/22 tubing and it was a pain because of the inlet pipes I selected, but it worked well. so let's say we have a hob... anything with a center brace, I tend to either mount on end which messes with what lids you can use and that would be something in the range of a tidal 75 or equivalent from another manufacturer. I cannot say what one works best, but if I go out and buy a hob today, right now, I'll get the marineland pro ones just because of the prefilter sponge (x2) and how it makes things extremely easy. Immensely easy. The shape inside is rectangular, the flow is bottom to top. It makes life easy by comparison.

definitely captures more light! You can probably mess with the iso / shutter and have some fun. 🙂

yes and no. Cory has a video on the 800g and he mentions that they use 1/2 cup of salt per 10G which relates to near level 2 of salt. I use that for just about everything apart from tanks with sensitive species where I will use 1 tbsp per 5g, which is the base directions on the API box.

That's awesome. It definitely is useful!

First time I've seen this in particular. Nice trick. I wonder how much one of the 30gal brute on wheels would help you out and save you wear and tear over the years. It's not the full size brute, but it works. I would imagine one for drain one for fill if you were trying to be speed lightning, but you could likely get away with just one and be able to use everything you have now just more easily. You've definitely go things dialed in. Thanks for sharing. It's a lot of work!

For February. Let's go with this. It's an easy, quick episode. I understand not everyone may have this and I apologize for that. If you do, I highly encourage you to watch it. This is definitely family friendly and easy to enjoy. Platform: NatGeo (Disney plus) Show: Never Say Never with Jeff Jenkins Episode: 03 - Swimming with Sharks If you have any, feel free to post your thoughts on the show!

Sorry, I meant the e50!! I need to get an e100 (or 2)

Sorry for your loss. That's unfortunate!

So it's basically a test tool. It's a chemical media, but the color itself is used to identify whatever may be in excess. Polyfil is something you can use for fine filtration, it's also called pillow batting and comes in sheets if you get the right type. There's also "fine pad" as a catch all term for things you'll find on places like Amazon.

Dang.... It's why I suffer through the tidal issues for so long, they just work. Feel better, hopefully a swift recovery for you and those around.... And that the new work is challenging and fulfilling. 🙂 It's like at some point the lights will just come with the plug in wifi timers so they can claim it on the box.... Well done. That makes life a bit easier! Exactly! I have one on the heaters for sure. For hobs as well. Skimmer or whatever auxiliary pumps, it's helpful. It's so frustrating to pull the plug off the wall every time because the studs aren't in the right spot or something. Again, feel better. Rest up as best you can.

Everything I QT tends to at minimum get salt + ich-x but it's not a hard and fast rule. Basically you're watching behavior and recovery. It takes experience to understand when something is off, that's the tough part unfortunately.

That's pretty hot for corydoras. Which ones are you talking about here? Sterbai and ones like false julii/trilineatus or Julii Corydoras do better at the 78-80 range than most other types.

In terms of setup, I know they have a few options. Does it have to be suspended or do they have a good riser kit? I assume too strong for a 30" long x 12-18" deep tank?