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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    reminds me of the Dan's video about algae eaters. He takes a clump of that kind of algae and just shows how fast different species can "handle it". It's interesting because different things can handle different surfaces and different things can handle different forms of algae better. String algae is almost always a shrimp thing for me just because of their anatomy.
  2. nabokovfan87
    [Insert Rocky Theme] This is from earlier in the week. One very old female amano (left) and one very old male amano (right).
  3. nabokovfan87
    It should not. That being said I basically won't ever run a filter without some form of ceramic or rock media just for stability sake. Some sponge filters can just really struggle to hold a cycle more than others. Not all sponge (or pot scrubber) is created equal. ....the same applies to biomedia.
  4. nabokovfan87
    What about pseudumugil species as your centerpiece. Dwarf corydoras ( hasbrosus or hastatus). And finish that with some nano danio/Rasbora species? I believe the smaller tank size works for those fish and you'd want the 20Long aquarium, 30" long. My apologies about any spelling errors, not sure on that one!
  5. nabokovfan87
    It's a bit of an interesting situation. Based on the pH being lower, it allows the rock to wear down more and that can cause the water to worn itself more towards neutral.... Which slows down the reaction. Alright so, the real tidbit here is that seiryu is a product from nature and as such it's not a known change in parameters. That change would alter over time. It would be more beneficial for the sake of a consistent setup to use something like a KH buffer in order to ensure things are consistent. As for a range I would try to shoot for 4 KH as a baseline. That gives you (in my case) a pH of at or around 7 with stability for a lightly or normal stocked tank. As you add more waste or organics to the water, then you use the KH up and that results in the potential pH crash. It's a balance. That's why I keep some KH buffer on hand. I use seachem alkaline buffer but there's household items that do the same thing as well. Almost exactly my tap water.
  6. nabokovfan87
    @Sweetpickles is the glass damaged? localized issues like that (hot spots) which block the flow could damage the heater. In one of the photos it almost looks like melted plastic, but I just wanted to ask / verify that the heater itself was structurally sound (externally) from what you could tell. they have ones designed for acrylic.
  7. nabokovfan87
    I SWEAR.... no joke.... feels like a solid 200 shrimp in the tank. I was just in awe sitting there staring at these things go bonkers. Here is one, born today. I watched the female kick out the baby shrimp and she had one that didn't want to be released. 😂 Beyond that, it's moving day!!! I moved 6 tiny corydoras and a few more cull shrimp while I was in the tank. Just really fun to sit and enjoy the tanks.... it really is. There are few things I enjoy more than the shrimp and corydoras. No wonder that's all I've had in the tanks for so many years and just been in awe each time I sit and watch. So yep! Thank you shrimp groomers for your help raising up these fry. It was really fun to see Riddick in mom mode and helping show them the ropes.
  8. nabokovfan87
    I tend to be closer to x6-x10 turnover. I can tell you from experience that you might want to have two canister. Just the way they work is a bit funky and it's not as straightforward on a 75G tank. I'm running a 407 and I have the spray bar on end right now. Meaning, the flow has to go across 4 foot of tank then to the bottom, then back 4 feet into the intake. The intake is extremely weak despite somewhat sufficient flow. I did try a full spraybar across the back of the tank, but a single 407 would not cut it with regards to pushing enough flow across that distance. Having both intake strainers in the corner or one in the middle and one in the corner would give you the ability to have two, 2 foot long spraybars and balance the output very well to give you good circulation. You can even better split out the CO2 diffusion that way as well by using one tank with two outputs and dual in line diffusers. For the sake of no dead spots. I don't think a single canister, definitely not a 407, works on a 75g 4 foot long tank. 40G maybe, but not a 75G. Hopefully that helps.
  9. nabokovfan87
    Looks like an error code. I would go ahead and send details to aquarium coop support email address.
  10. nabokovfan87
    Maybe time for a bigger filter on the tank, taller sponge just for the sake of it? The snail stuff is really neat, very adorable. 🙂
  11. nabokovfan87
    To give you an idea.... My light schedule for anubias, which grows extremely similar to Java fern, in a 29G aquarium is about 25-35% maximum. I would also recommend capping the blue at a max of 5% to try and curb algae. When it comes to a night mode you'd want the light to be off to minimize algae as well. Right now, your light window is 9.30-21.30 which puts you at about 12 hours. The general guideline is a max of about 8 hours. Anything longer almost always encourages algae. Now.... Your tank is using the Aquasky light. Please be sure to check this out as a starting resource. I have also used the aquasky in my tank for several years, but have moved on to the planted 3.0 lights. Ferns have been known to be potassium hogs. All of that being said I think the place to start is algae removal and reduction and give the plants a fighting chance to outcompete it. A hydrogen peroxide treatment on the plants wouldn't be a bad place to start. There's also the jurijs method where you soak the plants for 3 days in an algaecide solution like flourish excel (or easy carbon). I am sure that's a lot to digest and may lead to further questions. Please feel free to tag me and ask for any further elaboration. Yeah. You'd want to go ahead and make sure the rhizomes are good to go, not rotting, and that the leaves themselves aren't dying as a result.
  12. nabokovfan87
    I'm excited. They might take a it to color up and I'll have to remember what it's like to keep mid-level swimming fish again! Just got notified there was an issue at the facility and that the fish didn't make it into shipping. 😞 😞 😞 The wait for barb mecca continues. This also means a delay in the awesomeness that would've been seeing the SAE go to town on this algae! We'll have to see what they can get in and go from there.
  13. nabokovfan87
    you can try posting it on youtube or another site and posting the link here.
  14. nabokovfan87
    Amanos added today. I think the ludwigia got beat up in shipping. (froze or smashed) I added them, one amano was basically at the surface in the flow trying to clean the glass off. I saw one more on the grid in the back of the tank, but immediately I lost all of them and they are just hiding out living their little amano lives. 🙂 It was really cool. I put a young amano right next to one that is about a decade old, "here you go kid, let her show you the ropes" and the little amano went right off the net into the piece of wood next to her mentor. I'll keep an eye out for them and try to track out how the BBA fight is going. I'm excited to sit and look for them.
  15. nabokovfan87
    I think what you're dealing with is BBA on the plant causing it to not be able to grow properly. BBA likes to thrive on dying plants. So as the plant condition gets worse and worse, the bba can thrive easier. It's a fickle situation because there's a lot of things at play... plant placement, filtration, circulation, nutrient density, light intensity, etc. Let's take a look at the whole situation and try to dial in what could be causing the algae to thrive, then we can talk about treatment. Following that, you'll be able to dive into other issues that might be going on with the tank. Is the rhizome for the fern buried in the substrate?
  16. nabokovfan87
    It's a common issue with tanks 75G and larger unfortunately. Not a lot of things fit the rim. they do make stuff like 3d printed pieces you can use and then clamp onto. The other option is to just rest it on the lid itself.
  17. nabokovfan87
    I have a lone corydoras that ended up having a bacterial issue with their eyes. I got them mostly healed up, but I think she also has cataracts. Basically, Riddick is a character from a video game and movie series featuring Vin Diesel. He has "eye shine" as one of his main character traits that allows him to see in the dark.
  18. nabokovfan87
    A quick one... Floaters added. Anacharis and pearlweed are put into their pots. I might have to get another one (if I can find one) for the bulb plant, but I think it's happy. It would be happier with soil! The baby corydoras are about the right age to move, but we can all imagine how fun that will be to corral them. I want to get Riddick moved to the 20L when that's free and I may be adding a BNP into this tank. We'll see how it all goes and what makes sense when the time comes. I'll get photos when the plants look a bit more adjusted.
  19. nabokovfan87
    I'm excited. They might take a it to color up and I'll have to remember what it's like to keep mid-level swimming fish again! I planted in some anacharis today, pearlweed, and some rotala (rotundifolia) red in the tank. It looks a bit beat up from the RR treatments and de-duckweeding, but I am hopeful they grow really well. Pearlweed is tough to plant with big chunky pinsettes!
  20. nabokovfan87
    What does this mean? CEC meaning how well the substrate holds nutrients for the plants. Ion exchange capacity, Cation exchange capacity (CEC) is a measure of the total negative charges within the soil that adsorb plant nutrient cations such as calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+) and potassium (K+). As such, the CEC is a property of a soil that describes its capacity to supply nutrient cations to the soil solution for plant uptake. I might have to swap the shrimp tank over to it! Yay! And the barbs were from the other post, right? The hobbyist that had to move or something and is giving away their setups? I have some cherry barbs in the 20L from that tank as we speak as well as some rainbows and plecos. The barbs I was talking about were barbs from Dan's Fish, melon barbs, which I've been eyeballing since they came up on his stream one day. Really beautiful and one of the few barbs I have seen in person and they had green and purple hues to them. Really special. Did you keep some? 🙂 These are amano shrimp! Gifted to me by a friend for christmas and very excited for them to get here. 🙂 I understand the concept, but how quickly did it work, and did it work well in your opinion? It works pretty well honestly. It's the same type of thing you get when you guy a bag of sand and it comes with the little clarifier packet. After 3-6 hours it's pretty much in full effect, but it just takes ~12-24 for the water to pass through the filtration enough times. It's been something I used just on a whim when I first got into the hobby this time and it's been something where I got the big bottle because it was cheap and who knows how much you'll use it.... I've used it! I am sure there are types of things it won't work on. I have had tanks that have been cloudy and it didn't touch it, but that's likely because it was consistently clouding up (bacteria in the water) and that led to quite a few issues.
  21. nabokovfan87
    Also... Extremely well done conversation on the topic.
  22. nabokovfan87
    Yep, microsword! I can't say for 100% certainty that the fluorite black caused the BBA. Let's just say that it encouraged conditions for it to thrive for whatever reason. CEC on flourite is 1.7 For aquasoil it's 24+. The idea being originally that the flourite was a "planted tank substrate" but it really hasn't been in my experience. For whatever reason, plants couldn't thrive, but the algae could. I've seen some anecdotal commentary that the high metals in the fluorite (clay based) could be causing issues. Clarity is a binder. Iodine based I think, but it's a proprietary chemical. It just takes the fine particles and makes them stick together a little bit which helps them to mechanically get filtered out. A: Clarity™ is a flocculant, meaning it bonds to small particles, making them much larger and easier to filter from the water. There is also some research using flocculants to try to remove "forever chemicals" in the water supply. Things like graphene filters and stuff also, from what I've heard. Interesting stuff. Today was a busy, busy day. Fish arrived, barbs ordered, shrimp shipped out. All of these going in the 75G eventually. I also had plants arrive from a local hobbyist that I've been helping. Trimmings from their planted tanks. Most of it for the shrimp tank, but I do have 2-3 plants to try out in the 75G Garden as well. 🙂 I spent 3-4 days messing around with the substrate and the last time I messed with it I took a bunch of the plants up and moved another top layer of the fine substrate over by the swords. I moved those around, again, which isn't great but I think they will be able to thrive now. Bulbs are doing ok, growing, and I am just working on every little detail I can from day to day. Plants dipped in RR and I'll go ahead and position those tomorrow. OH..... I finally, officially got the refund for the plant fiasco, which is why I was able to order the barbs and substrate. Small steps, but it's just really good to feel like progress is being made. I have cleaned the filter twice this week, need to do it a third time because of that last effort to get the substrate right. A busy week, which is a wonderful thing.
  23. nabokovfan87
    It is similar to dechlorinator but has added aloe vera in there. It wouldn't help or hurt the situation I don't think. Rapid changes in parameters, temp, pH, etc. likely were at play here as well. It caused something to happen where you have swim bladder issues from your description and beyond that I just don't have the knowledge to expand on specific details. I hope they recovered and are doing a little better. Sort of like drinking a soda too fast and you feel excessive internal pressure. People have used things like epsom salt if that is for certain the cause of the discomfort, but absolutely do your research on what type of salt is best (aquarium salt vs. Epsom salt) and how to proceed with that methodology if that is your last resort.
  24. nabokovfan87
    In winter I use the sink to try to get the temp appropriate water. Given the situation, unless you're running a heater in some sort of conditioning chamber you're talking frigid water going into the aquarium and while it can trigger spawning, has a lot of oxygen compared to the tank itself, there is other things in the tank apart from the corydoras that might not enjoy the drop. Dechlorination is definitely at play here. I wanted to ask for the sake of full clarity if you're in a local well or if you have any idea if the water company might be flushing the pipes with some sort of chemical. Yes, absolutely possible.
  25. nabokovfan87
    Bug bites has fish in it. Aqueon food does not. Bug bites: Ingredients Black soldier fly larvae, salmon, fish protein concentrate, green peas, potato, wheat, dicalcium phosphate, calcium carbonate, DL-methionine, lecithin, choline chloride, L-lysine, vitamin E supplement, biotin, niacin, calcium L-ascorbyl-2-monophosphate, marigold extract, zinc oxide, manganous oxide, D-calcium pantothenate, vitamin B12 supplement, beta-carotene, rosemary extract, riboflavin, copper sulfate, pyridoxine hydrochloride, thiamine mononitrate, inositol, folic acid, vitamin A supplement, calcium iodate, sodium selenite, vitamin D3 supplement. Guaranteed Analysis Crude protein (%) (min) 40.0, Crude fat (%) (min) 12.5, Crude fiber (%) (max) 5.0, Moisture (%) (max) 10.0, Ash (%) (max) 9.0, Calcium (%) (min) 1.50%, Phosphorus (%) (min) 0.80%, Vitamin A (IU/kg) (min) 2,500, Vitamin D3 (IU/kg) (min) 2,400, Vitamin E (IU/kg) (min) 75. Aqueon
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