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Mmiller2001

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Everything posted by Mmiller2001

  1. Mmiller2001
    0KH isn't necessarily a problem, just know pH is free to swing, drastically at times, in a 0KH environment. As our water becomes more acidic, the BB can go dormant and stop the nitrogen cycle. Just be aware! Nitrates and other things, tannins and such, are acids. Also, if you have plants, during lights off, plants release CO². The CO² is then converted to carbonic acid. Test your pH an hour before lights on and see just how low it is. I also keep a low KH. So once a week I check KH. I do small weekly water changes just to maintain the KH. I imagine the problems you had were several things. 1, the meds changed the viscosity of the water lowering O². 2, 0KH could have allowed pH to drop in the high CO² environment. 3, the addition of the air stone may have caused a pH spike by addition of O². These possible rapid changes, coupled with sick fish, may have been enough to cause your cascading fish loss.
  2. Mmiller2001
    By any chance, did you not have an air stone going? Also, if you truly did have a pH of 5.5, that has to mean you have 0KH or some massive acid leaching into the tank. Drastic pH swings is a killer. And low pH can cause BB dormancy.
  3. Mmiller2001
    Absolutely, every fish is sick, regardless if they are sick. Med Trio, and then I do a full normal treatment of Paracleanse/ General Cure on week 3.
  4. Mmiller2001
    Yes. RO water is your easiest option to lower KH, which reduces pH, while keeping clear water. Another option is Seachem Acid Buffer. This product lowers KH.
  5. Mmiller2001
    It is, the only problem you might see is a very quick TDS change. Some shrimp might respond poorly to it. But the med itself does not kill shrimp.
  6. Mmiller2001
    Will do, thank you.
  7. Mmiller2001
    I had this exact same problem. I dosed PraziPro for 2 weeks and they stopped dying.
  8. Mmiller2001
    Wasting disease, Gener cure or Paracleanse.
  9. Mmiller2001
    My guess has always been flukes. I treat, it goes away, and some weeks later the flashing is back. It's textbook flashing. I do keep a tight lid on the tank, I'll remedy that tonight. I've done it on my other tanks and I swear they seem "better". I run 2 canisters. Both Eheim, 1 is the pro 4 and the other is a classic 350 that has a small amount of biological media, but I stuff it full of polyfil. The Pro 4 runs normal. I swap the polyfil every 5 days. I'll check the Pro Monday. It's only been running a month, but maybe it's dirty. I use RO/DI mineralized. I'm a parameter junkie. I match all parameters and temperature before water changes. The lid issue is excellent, thank you! Will observe for a few more days before action.
  10. Mmiller2001
    Zero
  11. Mmiller2001
    I dug up 2 very large swords 2 weeks ago and replanted them. It spiked my nitrates. Could this be the cause? I was checking my ammonia and nitrite, they never spiked. But I also removed a quarter bucket of Frogbit. I usually have zero nitrates. The Gourami told me something was wrong. So I checked. Did 5 gallon water changes every day till it hit 20ish.
  12. Mmiller2001
    I test daily. I did spike nitrates to about 50. But brought it to 25ish with small frequent water changes. The plants have caught up and they are naturally dropping now.
  13. Mmiller2001
    They are eating well. They are 9 months old. Only picture I have is attached.
  14. Mmiller2001
    Zero
  15. Mmiller2001
    Tetras and 1 dwarf gourami. 3 Julli's, other 3 died a while ago after the General Cure. Temperature 77 75 gallon planted blackwater. Inert sand substrate. 2 Eheim canisters, pro 4 and classic 350 Poppy lilly pipes. No air stone.
  16. Mmiller2001
    Fish flash. Become reclusive. Look irritated. Jerky.
  17. Mmiller2001
    5 weeks PraziPro 4 weeks General Cure Each time the issue resolves but comes back in about 3 to 4 weeks. Fish flashing. What else can I try? Or do I do another 2 months of these meds. I'm fighting some kind of parasite. I'd imagine they are growing immune at this point. Any help is appreciated. 9 month tank. 0-0-20 to 25 Nitrate. 5gh, 3kh. 7.3pH
  18. Mmiller2001
    My RO/DI puts out zero TDS. It's pure water.
  19. Mmiller2001
    I do not. My only additives are saltyshrimp, Easy Green and Flourish.
  20. Mmiller2001
    I Seachem Prime all my water storage as a precaution prior to mineralization. But I believe you are both correct. Something within that water changed caused it, there hasn't been any flashing since that first time. Fingers crossed!! Also, the red gill appeared before this water change. I was able to catch the most infected fish and am treating with Kanaplex in food form. Here's a pic, what is weird is that a few are rapid breathing with less redness.
  21. Mmiller2001
    75gallon, I use poppy pipes to reduce currents.
  22. Mmiller2001
  23. Mmiller2001
    77° Fahrenheit There are no external signs of any disease on all other fish. Cardinal Tetras, Neon Tetras, Black Neon Tetras, and the dying Julli's. Just suddenly, red gills on the Cory's and 2 dead, all others ( Cory's) seem to be seeking 0² at the surface. I have a Gourami flashing and the other gourami hiding at the bottom corners.. I run a 5 stage RO/DI system. I mineralize the water to 200 TDS @6GH and 3KH. Saltyshrimp GH/KH I water change every week, or 2 weeks about 15 to 30%. I match temperature, pH and GH/KH, within .2pH and 1dHardness I'm running 2 Eheim canisters. Classic 350 2215 and an Eheim Pro 600. .Blackwater Biotope I don't have pictures. Thank you
  24. Mmiller2001
    5 Weeks PraziPro, 3 weeks Paracleanse. Before that, 1 month Med Trio in QT. Just did my 30 percent water change and flashing has started. No flashing while I was dosing Paracleanse. Ph 7.3, GH 6-5, KH 3-4, All three test 0. What am I fighting? Julli Cats suddenly developed red gills, dying every day. Seriously, when do you give up and try again?
  25. Mmiller2001
    Just about to finish a round of Paracleanse, on day 5 now. I want to do another 5 days, should I just dose as normal or should I do the water change and then dose?
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