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varanidguy

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  1. Yes, by today's standards, given the progression of LED technology, depth and spread are much better metrics when deciding on what lights to use than volume. The watts per gallon metric is an old school method, when T8, T5, and T5HO were the standards.
  2. The pH really shouldn't be an issue, it sounds like your plants were simply having the "Oh you changed my parameters!" melt before adapting. The vast majority of fish we keep are also extremely adaptable. For instance, I keep wild caught two-spot catfish that come from peat swamps, in a pH of 8.2 and dKH of over 5, and they're doing perfectly well. Naturally they probably don't experience anything over 6, and even that could be high for their natural environment. Insofar as plants, they are also surprisingly adaptable at times, especially the ones you list. For example, I grow blyxa japonica like it's nobody's business, when on paper it likes low KH with a neutral to acidic pH. I'd say give it time, rather than chasing parameters, let things settle in for a couple of months and see how it goes.
  3. From the looks of it yes, I'd say it looks like a potassium deficiency, possibly manganese in the picture but I'd put more of a bank on potassium. Another option would be to at some potassium sulfate salt to your water column, providing all other parameters are at acceptable levels. If everything else could use a boost, then yeah the all in one solution would be best.
  4. I'll feed it all but prefer pellets. More nutrition per bite and it goes farther in feeding the animals.
  5. All of the Fluval 3.0 lights, except the Nano of course, are actually a bit undersized. Going with the 24" would work for you.
  6. Yeah, if it's the betta you're talking about, I wouldn't worry about lowering the pH. Typically it's something you really only have to worry about when caring for certain shrimp species or particularly sensitive wild caught fish.
  7. Chances are you don't need to. Chasing parameters can often times be a lot more detrimental than just keeping things stable, which is what fish most prefer. However, if you're dead set on it, in your case I'd mix distilled or RO water with your tap water.
  8. Let the tap water sit in a glass for a day or two to completely off gas then retest. Usually, the pH is going to be lower fresh from the tap than it is if you let it release whatever co2 and other gasses it could be holding. My tap's pH is 7.0 fresh from the tap, but 8.2 when it's allowed to off gas with a dKH of over 5.
  9. I'm a big fan of aquasoils. Dirting a tank will give you awesome results with the plants, however it can be quite messy when you inevitably need to uproot plants. It can be minimalized if you do it slowly and carefully, but it's inevitable. You can use just about any substrate you want if you're willing to change how you do things. Root tabs, letting mulm naturally compost, using some type of soil, etc. You have a lot of options that can all work.
  10. Just be sure to get high quality, tank raised discus. They are actually quite hardy if you get fish from the right source, even able to breed in alkaline water. Tank maintenance is top priority with discus as well as keeping them really toasty. They do not like a dirty tank.
  11. I feed mostly NLS and Omega One insofar as dry, prepared foods. Like you, ingredients are priority (so long as the fish accept the food). All of my fish go wild for NLS. My archers give me a wet tee shirt lol XTreme is on the list of foods to try since people swear by it so much. Even saw a video from a trade show where a vendor was claiming they had fish spawning eating XTreme. I take that with a grain of salt but if it's true, it's a good testament to quality I suppose.
  12. I've always had a better time with FedEx, without exception. Even when a lizard delivery got delayed on the eve of a holiday, FedEx stepped up and paid for another service to ensure it was delivered that night rather than delayed, with no additional cost to me or the seller. USPS is like HAAAAAAAAA your animal died sucks to be you!
  13. At this point, I'd be willing to try 90% or larger water changes. At least once, then retest the tank water, to see what effect it has on the ammonia levels. Edit: Also I'd be adding Prime/Safe/Fritz/other dechlorinator that also detoxifies ammonia and nitrite for the sake of the fish.
  14. Have you tested your tap to see if it has ammonia in it?
  15. You'd want to feed everything Community Plus, except the pleco would get Soilent Green.
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