Jump to content

nabokovfan87

Members
  • Posts

    11,092
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    69
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. I'll test mine and show you. Kh is low. GH is high. I buffer kh and pH up. Main thing is KH over a certain amount and just PH at the right spot. She doesn't have to buffer anything right?
  2. I can't say she's eating the BBA but there's a lot of good stuff on the heater for shrimp to eat and it's a lower flow area. She found a spot to hang on. Is usually right here going back and forth all night/day. Pandas take the bottom, she's got security up there.
  3. That's awesome! I assume lava rock? Very good photos. Always high quality work.
  4. Very sorry for your loss and your struggles with the guppies. Nothing stands out. Check the heater for stray current, see that everything is working as it should. Double check temp using a second thermometer.
  5. Nah they got attacked. 😞 No HoB on this tank, just two sponge filters. Yeah 100%. It's a good sign and there's definitely some growing to do.
  6. One method is not changing water often enough, the other is not changing enough water. Both could cause OTS. In a heavily planted tank, if the tank is pulling all the minerals and you're not replenishing those fast enough it could lead to deficiencies in the plants and stress on the fish. I'm not sure which applies here but Cory's OTS video is really helpful, just make sure you watch to the end because he discusses both causes and has his own experiences he can bring into that conversation. Definitely not high enough to cause issues. Ah. Alright. That's interesting. My KH is around 60 ppm. PH is just over 7. Not sure if that gives you a bearing. If my KH goes to 80, PH is right around that 7.3-7.5 range. I think in degrees of KH I'm at 4-6 with the ppm mentioned above.
  7. I've got a table being setup and a light I am likely going to mount. We'll see how much space is available. I tried it with just a normal mason jar and the light at 30%, too narrow of an opening and definitely not bright enough.
  8. There was 7 😞 It's ok. There will be more. This one is at least acclimated to how I run the tank, progress made. It's alive. Doing good.
  9. Congratulations! Those jars are really cool. Very nice thing to have and they all seem to be doing well for you.
  10. Did anything change in terms of the tap water or in terms of old tank syndrome? If KH is at a certain point that should give PH stability. If bioload changes, is less of a bioload, then KH will have an easier time being stable. For me that point is 60ppm Maybe the med treatment and the water changes resulted in a balance of parameters. In the sense of increasing water change volume, increasing the rate of water changes, that led to re-balancing everything in the tank and giving you better stability. The dead plants would add to the bioload, making PH drop and KH would get used up. Phosphates go up as well. Seasoning in terms of water is usually akin to aging and giving the water time to off-gas anything it needs to, leading to stable water that isn't full of treatment chemicals. In terms of an aquarium "seasoning" is used akin to cooking where you marinade meats and add flavor. That type of use is where you get the diatom algae and other things going on in the tank which add to the ecosystem and give you the building blocks for the life in the tank to thrive. Balance is another way to view it.
  11. Definitely not berried or anything. Was hanging out on the BBA / heater yesterday. Still, very very light sensitive at that size.
  12. Alright. Fun little game. Sit your pups down for a nice little photo.... Then ask if they want a treat. 😂
  13. Just wanted to say thank you for everything you've done and those you've inspired along the way to where you are now. On your own personal YouTube channel you have changed from fish style content to mostly other stuff. Do you still have tanks? Just checking in, wanted to ask how things are going for you. Was also mentioned on Cory's steam this past Sunday as well I believe.
  14. I spy a little shrimp. 🙂 I think this is still the same one shrimp, but who knows. Pandas are in there and the shrimp is just being a shrimp doing shrimp things grazing on food with the lights out. What do you think, male or female? Quality look ok, like a bloody mary not a painted fire red? (cc @SandBkeeper) Hoping it's this female. She was amazing when I first opened the box!
  15. I'll add this: This video is one I find myself watch every single time I order plants. Yes I should know what I'm doing by now, but I also really just enjoy this. I enjoy seeing this and watching this. I think it's important to show how to make something beautiful. For me I'd want to show something that is just masterfully done, but seems easy to replicate. I also really enjoy the video where Cory is sitting out at his Koi pond when it's done and just explaining why he enjoys that pond and those fish. How it makes him feel. I also think one like the "1 hour challenge" is important because you get a feel for what it's like to have and care for tanks. (this is why I think so much of us enjoy the vlog style videos as well).
  16. There's a sheet in the algae thread in my signature that might help. Brown diatoms for me is usually just extra ferts. Dosing root tabs is perfectly fine. If you're dumping in a lot of fertilizer (or have a ton of fish) then perhaps you just need to dose in half as much and see how things progress. The nice thing is that brown diatoms are very very easy to remove. Take a small brush / toothbrush and keep the leaves of the plant clean. Just be delicate with it to prevent damage. Give the plants time to do their thing and don't change too much too often. Let the BNP (maybe add some otos) to clean up the algae and give the tank weeks to let you know if it's doing ok or not. I would suggest minimum ~2-4 weeks between any changes. Longer is better. If you see some pretty severe issues right away and it's clear that one change caused those issues, then it makes sense to back off on those changes in some instances. My example being... I had my tank doing ok for a good amount of time, a few months. I had added a bit more plants and so I turned the lights up, then I saw the algae go off very very intensely after the plants were acclimated. It wasn't just small diatoms of small growth, but very big intense growth. It was essentially change on monday, issues on saturday and pretty clear A caused B. Sometimes you just need to wait things out and give it time. Keep the plants clean, check how they are doing and adjust accordingly.
  17. Right. My blackwater setup is very faint. It is definitely blackwater in person, but just not very intensely dark. Interesting, thanks.
  18. Small bottle and the "nano" branding just makes it so people thing bettas need it, that they have to be in small tanks, and that.... well you get the idea. Frustrating because how many of us actually would use it for meds or have it on hand just because. Yeah, make your own, get some teabags and all that.... Sure. What most people don't realize is that from the manufacturing side, say it costs them $2 per bottle. They make it at a certain scale. You change the bottle to 4-5x the size and the price goes up from $2 per bottle up to $5-6 just due to raw ingredients and all that. Ballpark estimates and purely speculative. Small bottle is $6-8 at retail. Big one is $15-20. With time, with volume, with efficiency, you get that price down to $12-16 per bottle. WHY..... do it fritz. I'm sure one of the API melafix/primafix is essentially equivalent, but I want the stuff that is pretty plain and simply labelled as IAL extract. I just happen to have a bigger tank than 5G for my blackwater projects. Turtle keepers would use it, so many different tanks could use it. Easily. 😩 @Chick-In-Of-TheSea Next time you use it can you do a before / after shot?
  19. What is your plan or setup for circulation? For a tank of that size you might have plants for how to get water around the tank and that would play into how you do your heating. If you run a sump vs running a few canisters or whatever the plan is that's going to change the answer to the question. As far as 3w vs. 5w per gallon I would (and have) viewed it as whether or not your ambient temp is above or below 10 degrees from your desired operating temp. If the room is at 68 and your plan is to heat the tank to 78, 3w per gallon should work, but it's right on the edge and may run non optimally. Aqueon actually has a pretty useful chart that you can extrapolate out for the tank in question. For instance, let's say the chart or math says you need 300-400w on your heaters. I would right at least 2, potentially 3 heaters if you're running a pair of canisters or HoBs. If you're running a sump, I'm not sure what makes sense. It's probably a large single heater and having a backup on hand. On my 75G tank, because it's 20+ degrees below ambient I run a pair of 200watt heaters. I also have ran it with one 300 and one 200. This would give me enough room in terms of the heaters being on less often, but I could also balance out the heat so that the tank doesn't have dead spots (or hot spots for shrimp). Heater goes right where the HoB output is and pushes a lot of strong flow around the heater. Tank only needs one, but I'd rather cut the load and spread the heat out for that specific setup and stocking. If I was running one canister, I'd run just the 300W. I'd run one heater, have a spare, and use a heater controller. (Heater located in sump) For reference, this is useful.
  20. I spy some gold white clouds! Very neat that you were able to capture that. Well done.
×
×
  • Create New...