Jump to content
Watch our video on the rules of this forum.

nabokovfan87

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    11,092

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    69

  • Feedback

    100%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Id recommend aquarium salt. Very tough situation. 😞 How much water? Sounds like OTS. 100%
  2. nabokovfan87
    if there is only shrimp in the tank you'd treat it differently. I would suggest starting with erythromycin / maracyn (same thing) and following the directions on the package. If you have fish at the surface gasping, you'd likely want to add an airstone and verify filtration/equipment is functioning. I use seachem alkalinity buffer. I use a 1/8 tsp scoop. 3 per 5g during a water change.
  3. nabokovfan87
  4. nabokovfan87
    72. It's also the one place with no fish. Pandas have been insanely active spawning. The red tufts on the heater is a bunch of algae that they are grazing on. There's a ton of it.
  5. nabokovfan87
    They must be hanging out behind the heater. 😂
  6. nabokovfan87
    We have a second sighting! Went to try to take a better photo. NOW THERE IS THREE.
  7. nabokovfan87
    Question for everyone.... simply because I think it's fun and interesting! Do you keep both Amano and some "fancy" shrimp? Not necessarily together, but do you have an idea on "how big" they both get? Another fun comparison is the size of an amano zoey compared to a shrimplette. Have you seen an amano zoey before? (think size of a copepod floating around the tank) Tomorrow my plan is to attempt to get a good video showing my little neo shrimp (very, very young) compared to a full blown old amano shrimp. Hopefully the scale is there and easy to see!
  8. nabokovfan87
    They tend to avoid very bright lights. Give them some cover and they'll probably hang out there or on the back glass by the filter input/output. They tend to be most active right before or just after the lights come on or right after they go out. They aren't really nocturnal, but it all depends on the setup. best of luck! Rachel has a ton of videos on hillstream species and loaches in particular.
  9. nabokovfan87
    They are really fun to have, very similar, just slightly smaller and more chill. I love the blue tail, very unique.
  10. nabokovfan87
    You got yourself a species of borneo loach 🙂 Very cool! What does your setup look like for them?
  11. nabokovfan87
    Build a fire first.... Cody Lundin style. I read an article about salt use on corydoras, that same article/talk/website has another feature article that month about some pretty intense / severe issues with tank water and humans interacting. Scarred for life.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Just for Waterchanges only! to hold the lid up for ya 🙂
  13. nabokovfan87
    JBL also has strips you can scan. Some error there, but also another choice if you don't trust yourself. Tetra's app will also analyze their strips for you too. Nah... just use dechlor and fooorgetaboutit.
  14. nabokovfan87
    It really, really depends on what fish you're talking about for me. I tend to introduce things based on where they swim and how they behave. For instance, I don't really want to introduce "food" to an aggressive fish and end up with something chasing fish right away. In the same token, I want to have dither fish with certain other fish at the same time so they compliment one another. Some fish, like corydoras it really doesn't matter and they are going to do their own thing. Most often, the tank boss / centerpiece fish is last. Let everyone get settled, then the tank boss will go in and pick their spot, causing the other fish to adjust and understand the mindset of the bigger, scarier fish.
  15. nabokovfan87
    There is a such thing as a common "colony crash" unfortunately. Let's say you have a tank of a certain size that can happily sustain 150 shrimp. you have 100 shrimp and 20 of them drop shrimplettes. That could easily turn to a few hundred shrimp and the tank isn't really viable to support that amount of food for the colony of that size. This causes some to die off, causes ammonia / nitrates to spike, causing more deaths and cycle where the tank balances itself so to speak. Causes for what you experienced could be as above, but I would think that it's much more likely that some form of contaminant caused the issues. Then one shrimp died, then the next, etc. If one shrimp died from a bacterial issue (you mentioned fin rot) then that could lead the next shrimp to be infected that eats on the dead shrimp and the cycle progresses. Likely due to shrimp, but you'd want to change water and use dechlorinator to keep the system free from ammonia. Very well could. If the fish is in high stress and the disease is very harsh / virulent strain of the bacteria than it can look pretty bad pretty quickly. What kind of shrimp were involved, how long were they in the tank? What is your maintenance regime for the shrimp and how much/often do you change water? How often do you feed them, how much? What is your filtration, how is it setup?
  16. nabokovfan87
    Nice work. Fun little project for sure. The lid lifts are good ones to have.
  17. nabokovfan87
    are you using things like dechlorinator during WCs? Sounds like you're on a well and you might have farmland nearby? Get test kits for minerals so you actually know what you need to dose! They have strips as well but I can't say that works in the range you need or their accuracy.
  18. nabokovfan87
    I think it has it's place, but there needs to be a better kit. Here's my issue. USA Test Kit: 4 tests ---> PH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate. EU test kits: 10 Tests ---> PH, KH, GH, Chlorine, Iron, Ammonia, Ammonium, Nitrite, Nitrate, Phosphate JBL has one as well that's pretty good. I do know that Fritz is working on one. Let's just say it better have more than 3-4 tests to be useful. At minimum, I want beginners to be able to test: -Chlorine -Ammonia -Nitrite -Nitrate -PH -GH -KH I want an advanced kit for metals / planted tanks. -Magnesium -Iron -Phosphate -Potassium -Manganese -Calcium API sort of messed up when they called it the "MASTER KIT". It just isn't. And they do have secondary kits but that doesn't fit into your box / kit holder like the other brands do. Just like much of the US hobby, a pretty basic re-thing, update, and methodology change would make things easy on everyone. Kit 1: Beginner kit #1 (take the existing master kit and add chlorine) Kit 2: Beginner kit #2 -GH, KH, Phosphate, Iron, Kit 3: Advanced kit -Calcium, Cholorine, Free Ammonia, Magnesium, Potassium, etc.
  19. nabokovfan87
    Yes, works well for fry food. Very well. I would recommend this method for feeding powdered foods: You can use all of them, some are more chunky than others. I would recommend turning off equipment, letting it sink. If you're feeding it for mid-water feeding, just be aware that it may or may not get pushed around the water column pretty easily. I used a little pipette and added 2-3 vials of water then added a small amount of powder and mixed it so it didn't float on the surface as easily. Then I would feed it into moss. It does stick and can fungus up over time if the fish don't eat it. Don't feed a ton if you're using it for fry food, but it's going to be equivalent to use something like the easy fry food in how you use it.
  20. nabokovfan87
    Water change done for the week. Pandas are trying to lay eggs again, I pulled one that had a bit of sand on it but it was stuck to the glass. I saw the smallest fry in there doing it's thing and bounced luigi's house looking for the shrimp. Just trying to make sure it was ok and not on the sponges or anything in the bucket. Once I have more in there I won't have to be as concerned, one sponge a week is the plan, but I don't have any real issue cleaning both each time. This is my water: As far as your question, she's going to want to acclimate the shrimp each time she adds them to her tank from yours. Slow drip, normal procedure. This just means you might want to wait until you have a good amount of culls (10+) so that it's a bit easier to do the acclimation in batches. Setup an airline+clip+drip valve and explain the use so that things are normal. I would also review / explain dwarf shrimp diseases just so that she's aware of visually what to look for. Just 2 mystery snails. So then let's keep an eye on KH and PH and do 25% WC every other week. Even low stocking I plan to change water weekly, but dosing in the CC you would want to extend out water changes. If she wanted to change things once a month, especially with snails in there, I would opt for 50% monthly at minimum. After ~3-4 water changes we'll have an idea on how well the coral/aragonite is working and we can go from there. By then, you'll have a good trend and we can adjust anything if need be.
  21. nabokovfan87
    The noise you're hearing is air being hit by the impeller. Even if you purge it perfectly there's a few things going on.... A. You might need to clean the pump / impeller so that the flow i strong enough that it can push out the bubbles. B. You might need to rock or angle the canister itself to push the air out of crevices and then let the pump push it out. C. A pinhole in the tubes that is pushing air into the canister.
  22. nabokovfan87
    No biggie. By all means I'd be happy to help fix/sort whatever in whatever way. The big thing is what's in the tank now? If nothing then she can just add the CC and test. Wait for shrimp. Again, I don't think the amount she added was too much. Let's say flow was higher than your tank or someone else, that increases the KH boost. All fine. Not an issue or concern at all. If it's shrimp only, I would do WCs once a month or once every 2 weeks. You don't want to know what I'm doing it'd shock you, but my experience is that shrimp love water being clean. The issue is if you're buffering, then you have to be precise and on top of tracking changes. That's all. That's the key. Once we know what KH is, that it's "stable" we can do a test WC and see how it affects the tank and for how long. If she is overly concerned I do recommend dosing in alkalinity buffer (powdered) similar to the stuff by seachem or by salty shrimp KH+. In terms of what @Lenniehhad said, the interesting thing is whether or not food itself would be sufficient enough to produce the needs of the shrimp and stop any molting issues. Neos are forgiving. And in my experience.... As long as they aren't snacks, shrimp are often forgiving to human error. Some lines, just like guppies and Bettas might be so inbred that causes serious issues. All variables at play and as long as method is "good" then things should do ok. If the colony crashes, learn from it, then just add more culls. That's the awesome part about this setup. It's a good situation for you and her to get it going.
  23. nabokovfan87
    @The endler guy It's by all means your list, the one that stood out to me was SAE vs. CAE. Maybe switch CAE with something else. I think a lot of us would just say CAE shouldn't even be sold. Next time flying fox or something. SAE vs Oto sounds right... 😉 🤔 I don't see amanos anywhere
  24. nabokovfan87
    Stress too can cause issues. Keep in mind that color changes as they molt. So some blue hues might be intense right after molting. With the amanos they change from clear to black/dark grey/mahogany brown when they are molting and holding one. I'm gonna end up with some wilds. I'm excited to have them with the amanos. They look cool. Very unique patterns. Beautiful big shrimp. That's awesome. She'll probably spend a lot of time in that area. That's her hood.
  25. nabokovfan87
    Chemical would be last thing water passes before it goes out of the filter. Normally. While you're running meds make sure it's safe to use chemical media. You can remove some fine sponge if you're running carbon. Carbon would go after ceramics. Same as other chemical medias.
×
×
  • Create New...