Solidus1833

I appreciate it, I will c heck t hem out. Looks like the dojo's may not be able to just tear into these Neo tabs.

So I decided to give root tabs another go in my 72g. I gave up root tabbing a while ago because my Dojo loaches just dig them up and chew the tabs all happy like. So I planted 7 root tabs this morning with my weekly water change and it looks like the dang dojos got 3 of them. Does anyone have any solutions for this besides using some food to get their interests elsewhere? That only works so much. Is there another way to get nutrients into the substrate? I've been using the co-op root tabs which are capsules. Is there another type of tab that is more of a tablet than capsule? Any help would be appreciated. Bonus image of a basking dojo after he's torn up a root tab.

Feeding 1 Pound of Live Black Worms to the 800g Goliad Fish Farms Giant Puffer Fish Eats Clams and Crabs! "ANY" Dean's Fishroom Video SERIOUSLY- This guy breeds clown loaches

I absolutely love my fluval heaters. got em in every aquarium. I struggled like many do with traditional heaters always dying, but after cory reviewed the E-series a few years ago I was sold. I've purchased 4 now and they all still run just as good as day 1.

Heres a good triple stack of clowns doin what clowns do. then a corydora acting like a camel, and then a glorious Dojo wondering where the food is.

Like what @Koisaid. At this point you are just trying to recover what plants may survive. I bet it will take atleast a week before you notice 'new' growth. Depending on the plant maybe longer. I've definitely run into plants I just could 'not' keep healthy, all part of the learning process.

Yes, repashy is an amazing food. I personally use two different blends, Morning Wood (pleco) and Community blend. There are more like Soylent Green which you can try as-well.

That I'm afraid I have zero experience with. I'm sure there are some around here that do reactor Co2 though.

The dosing should not change too much. Depending on the plant load it could be more or less. If dosing Co2 the plants will eat better hence some more EG should do them good. If you start to see plants wither away to veins on the leaves this could be a sign of the plants eating themselves for nutrients. This could be a sign to dose more. I would start with 1-2x a week. with a small water-change when the nitrate goes above 20ppm. Essentially you are targeting 20ppm nitrate at all times. I think the math for a dose of EG is 5ppm nitrate. So If you do a water-change and your nitrate is 0-10ppm I may just do a double dose of EG initially and let it ride for 5 days or so. Again this all depends on your plant load and fish load. If you are new to Co2 please understand its a long process to dial in for any aquarium. Target probably 1-2bubbles per second (bps) with the needle valve, and have it run only when the lights are on. Keep in mind this will also affect your PH in relation with your KH. Below Is a neat grid to use, as bubble counters I feel are really inaccurate. For example, My water comes from the tap 7.6ph and 6KH. So I use the grid to walk myself down to the green zone essentially 7.0ph by the time my Co2 cuts off for the day. By the next day my PH only rises to 7.2 over night then its back at 7.0 at high light and never goes below. Giving me close to the coveted 30ppm of Co2 and within the green zone. Its very easy to over-gas an aquarium. If you do, Just do a water-change and adjust the needle valve. This process again can take some time to dial in. I've tried the bubble counter method and adjusting the Co2 every 2-4hrs and every time I've gone too far because the bubble counter reads essentially late. What ever the bubble counter says is a reading prior to when you are testing the tank ph. This grid and testing PH is very effective just time consuming. You essentially want to test PH right before the lights come on and co2 begins. Wait a few hours and test again, wait a few hours and test again. Then test at lights out and again in the morning. Once you understand how your aquarium processes the Co2 load you can adjust from there. I would probably not go past 3bps co2 in most scenarios but honestly that's just my opinion.

you can try canned green beans. dont boil them and use a fork to help sink them. Zuccini, cucumber and squash is also possible, same method. Dont worry if the green beans are salted, its not enough to matter at all for freshwater.

Extreme slow sinking pellets mixed with semi-float. Krill flake, vibra-bites, frozen spirulina brine shrimp, Mysis shrimp, repashy community blend, blood worms. Pretty much alternate foods throought the week. But my go to feed is the Extreme pellets and krill flake. You want them to get some spirulina as they naturally feed on algae. Unfortunatly mine werent too keen on the spirulina flake. So I just do the spirulina brine shrimp. no fish denies that haha.

My aquariums went almost 9 days with zero filtration from the Texas storm. If you want you could always disturb the water yourself like say, use a cup, pull some water and pour it back in a few times. I wouldn't worry too much to be honest. The co-op's shipping is usually pretty fast. Like @ererer said, if you have an airstone just use that for water circulation. You should be fine.

I went to read my bag of Co-op root tabs. Red Clay, Magnesium, Nitrate, Phosphate, potassium, manganese, zinc, molybdenum, and iron. All of which are already in Easy Green. So maybe I should just dose more EG as some must get into the substrate as-well. These dojos are so fun, but dang, its impossible to keep root tabs in place with them hahaha.

do you think it would still be beneficial even if they tear them up? Because then its just in the water column minus how much seeps back into the substrate.

Take a look here. Cory is fixing to run all of these breeders and ponds with a single sponge filter in each. Just food for thought 🙂

I don't think there is much con here because honestly a sponge filter is more than enough if you don't overstock the tank. There is a point of diminishing returns which scale shifts with the size tank. A 10 gallon tank shouldn't require more than a sponge filter. Is the Fluval 20 you are referencing the HOB (hang on back)? because if so, I would honestly skip the sponge filter and just run that to save space in such a small aquarium. (ive never heard of a Fluval 20 filter tbh). An Aquaclear 20 yes. Also you wouldn't need an air-stone if you are running a sponge filter, it technically does the exact thing the air-stone does (move water and oxygenate).

oh the clown loaches don't mess with the root tabs. They don't dig, sometimes move the substrate around but nothing like the Dojo loaches. Those piggies will pump/sift the substrate like power-vacuums searching for what they are smelling. I stopped root tabbing because honestly watching them tear into root tabs I just spent time placing, ripping them apart, and sifting the powder felt like a waist of time for me. Not sure if that could damage their gills either because that stuff is supposed to stay in the substrate.

I wish there was a way for me to do root tabs and keep them away from my dojos lol. I swear every time I root tab, I find them digging deep and searing up the tabs, and pumping the white powder through their gills sifting for food.

Thank you! The stock list is Pleco (L191 Royal, L075 Para, L270 False Zebra), 4x Albino Cory, 4x Bosmani, Female Rainbow Shark (Tank Boss), 3 Grey/Peppered Dojo, 2x Albino Dojo, 6x Clowns, and two siamese Algae eaters. Thank you for the info. I say 10-20ppm but the api color is more orange than brown so its prolly 20ppm. When the color starts going reddish is when I know to do a waterchange usually around 5-7 days. I think you may be right about bottoming out on nutrients. I have a red sword leaf thats practically all vein and no leaf now haha. As for the possible black beard algae on the anubias, im not quite sure. Isnt BB algae like hair algae. I used to get it on my val but after I introduced the siamese algae eaters, thats not been an issue. The black on the anubias started after I uncovered my tank from the winter storm here in texas. At that time the nitrate was well over 200ppm. Took me about two weeks to get it back to 20ppm. I thought about just snipping off the affected anubias leaves but I've not really got around to it yet. But I should probably really get back to dosing ferts.

I suppose I'm running into the same issue. I should go back to dosing EG every week. I've not dosed since the Texas Snowmageddon and recovering my tank which must have had over 200ppm nitrate.

The snails eat dying plants. So if there are holes, the snails prolly cleaned it up. I'm not too sure about the mystery snail egg spawn rate but i don't thing its anything like bladder/pond or Ramshorn snails.

The loach method would probably work for you but keep in mind they would eventually go for mystery snails. You could do the loach method for a little while, then lower the amount of food and control the population that way after rehoming the loach.

I agree. I actually have a good colony of bladder/pond snails in my 20g which i then transport into my 72 which has a school of clown loaches. Its like watching clown loach rugby 🙂

I think I remember @Cory mentioning on a livestream that easygreen was able to ship through amazon in Canada. I could be mistaken however. I do know hes spent years discussing the issue of getting supply up there due to many contributing factors.

I would refrain from this method. Not that it doesn't work, I personally am just wary of reintroducing anything back into my aquariums that were anywhere near bleach. You could just borrow a clown or zebra loach. They will clear up ANY snail you want haha then you could always bring it back to your LFS for some store credit if available. Or if your tank is big enough, a school of 6 clown loaches will bring you tons of happiness. They live up to the 'clown' name.