Jump to content
Watch our video on the rules of this forum.

MWilk

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    90

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by MWilk

  1. MWilk
    I don’t think they do the $1/gal sale anymore. They mark them down pretty steep, but not that low. Inflation hits hard.
  2. MWilk

    Sand

    MWilk replied to Cjbear087's topic in General Discussion

    I used Caribsea’s peace river sand in my 20 long, it is very similar to this gravel/sand. It does well with plants, and it is hard to disturb. It settles nearly instantly, but every now and again I find some pieces on the leaves of my crypts from my fish stirring it up. I don’t have an answer for you on the first two.
  3. MWilk
    If you’re on a water softener, use a product like seachem equilibrium to raise GH and an alkalinity buffer to raise pH and KH.
  4. MWilk
    Will fembendazole not kill them off?
  5. MWilk
    You own a car, right? You ever google your make and model +”problems”? You’ll never want to drive it again if you read all that. If you like an aqueon 40b, get another! If you can find a marineland, even better. Now just comparing like for like, I’d rather have the 29 for platies. They do a lot of up and down swimming.
  6. MWilk
    It’s duckweed. I find duckweed reduces the light just right for my tanks, but I have to scrape it all off of my arms every time I have to get into the tank. I still haven’t decided whether or not to remove it all or leave it.
  7. MWilk
    I’d try to get the mineral content up a bit, and add a catappa leaf. See if they congregate on the leaf.
  8. MWilk
    I have the opposite problem when cycling new tanks. I have been using seachem stability and see nitrites hang out around 2.0ppm with zero ammonia and minimal nitrate. It just takes some time to settle out.
  9. MWilk
    That looks like a Molly.
  10. MWilk
    Add hardness back to your water or grab it before the softener. or you could try to keep caridina shrimp that prefer soft water, but are generally considered hard to take care of.
  11. MWilk
    Good for small tanks, for example if you look at the co-op light’s par rating, it is incredibly intense in the center at 12” of water depth. Off centerline, it drops rapidly. Risers all you to raise the fixture up to spread the light out instead of having an algae bar in the middle of the tank and anubias and moss tucked in the corners.
  12. MWilk
    Dechlorinator is safe in massive overdoses. To save money, you could always just test for chlorine.
  13. MWilk
    I agree, I think it would be too small. Colombian tetras are pretty large bodied. Cardinals would be a good medium.
  14. MWilk

    Gill Flare

    MWilk replied to MWilk's topic in Diseases

    Thanks. Fins look normal to you for the type of fish? Most paradise fish I’ve seen have this pinched down look.
  15. MWilk
    Technically, a self priming pump is one that can pump air out of its own housing well enough to draw a suction of sufficient head for normal operation. Plenty of pump designs are self priming, basic plastic impellers in a fish tank filter are not one.
  16. MWilk
    It looks like your substrate is being disturbed excessively, dirt has settled everywhere, and nutrients from that soil is dispersing into the water. Have you tested for nitrate? I would recommend turning the lights down a bit on the length of time and adding more plants, rapid growth, water column feeding plants. Maybe even just some pothos on the outside of the tank to suck up nutrients.
  17. MWilk
    That sounds like some wonderful soil. I'd go for the hygro corymbosa compact. I love hygros.
  18. MWilk
    The test for nitrates isn’t very sensitive. On most color comparator tests you really get about 3 ranges. Zero-very low, just right, and way too high. There’s a good chance your nitrates are way high and you just cut them down but not enough to make a difference in the test. are you using the ACO test strips? Try a liquid dropper test.
  19. MWilk
    Java Fern is a pretty slow growing plant, and the narrow leaf type you have here is no different. The plant is clearly stressed a bit, it has a few small plantlets growing off the tips of a leaf or two. The algae buildup is on your other plants as well. what sort of light are you using? The Java fern appears to be directly under the most intense part of the light, that it doesn’t really need.
  20. MWilk
    Definitely anubias. Bettas like to rest on plants, Anubias barteri has good broad leaves for them. You can stick them on a rock or stick up higher in the water column without affecting the substrate. Dwarf sag is nice but will take over in a small tank like that. Crypts make a good floor cover. Baby Tears is a carpeting plant that needs special care to look good and really doesn’t benefit a betta. what substrate will the tank have?
  21. MWilk
    Test your tap water source.
  22. MWilk
    If you keep your tank full, the aquaclear will stay primed on a loss of power. You only have to refill it a bit after maintenance in my experience.
  23. MWilk
    If someone told me the skimmer on the tidal would eat duckweed, I would buy it in a heartbeat. It just looks to me like it would clog immediately.
  24. MWilk

    Gill Flare

    MWilk replied to MWilk's topic in Diseases

    0/0/10-20/7.6/low KH/250+ppm GH/70F He has looked like this since I got him, several months now. All other fish are healthy, if not a little fat.
  25. MWilk
    Definitely would recommend the use of white clouds as a primary schooling fish. They are great looking, super hardy fish and cheap. Rainbow shiners can be hard to find, expensive, and only color up part of the time. a hillstream loach would probably crawl out of that tank. I keep Flagfish, a paradise fish, and white clouds in my unheated tank. I also have Pygmy cories though I can’t say how well they take the lower temps. Mine is in right at 70F.
×
×
  • Create New...