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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Sounds like a question for Dean! Is the mop you have short? longer strands? Have you tried to make one of his newer designs out of pool noodle foam material that is rigid and easier for the fish to swim through? It might just be a need to make the strands shorter, 3-4" length, or try out the design Dean recently showed off.
  2. nabokovfan87
    It'll dry out a bit. Is the tank inside or out? Best thing to do is probably cover the tank opening with plastic wrap.
  3. nabokovfan87
    Lol that quote in the signature. ❤️ sharks! Is this where we request a Bolivian Ram Dragon!?
  4. nabokovfan87
    Agreed, I definitely wouldn't suggest trying to reach 100% on there for stocking. When I was close or over the tanks were a mess. Fish get bigger, having plants just helps keep things stable and reduces water issues for me. I totally understand what you mean though!
  5. nabokovfan87
    AqAdvisor is a good tool for playing around with stocking. I would say try to get a 75G! Let's see what the tool specifies though. You don't list QTY of each so it's hard to determine "overstocked" per say. 40B with a filter rated for a 70G tank.
  6. nabokovfan87
    @DemobananaCan you elaborate on the situation you're going through? I am slightly confused by this part: Essentially you're going to dose per the label. All of the labels may say that you can dose 5x or 10x dose in an emergency situation. The key being, find out what is leeching ammonia, or remove the fish temporarily while the tank stabilizes. From Seachem:
  7. nabokovfan87
    Yes. QT in the sense of "exclude from other fish" absolutely. You're containing the illness to that tank, it's own equipment and tools. You'd want to monitor and observe and use meds as you normally would. The only real issue is salt with the plants. Some hold up to this, some don't.
  8. nabokovfan87
    For a few reasons, the filter has an issue with flow. It's *too strong* which leads to: 1. Water level a bit too high if you stuff the basket with media which leads to bypass 2. Water chooses path of least resistance, which isn't the sponge, which leads to bypass 3. The sponge has some muck on it, water goes around the basket due to restricted flow, which leads to bypass. Sealing the cuts in the basket helps, but also encourages the water level ever so slightly higher. Modifying the foam just means that you can control how quickly #3 happens above. Going from about 1-2 days between bypass to 3-5 days with bypass. This all depends how much "muck" is in the water and how much you feed day to day. The dimples.... do this: What this means is you can hold a bit more muck on that bottom edge of the foam before it just goes around and over the basket. Small thing, but for this HoB in particular it makes a pretty big difference. There's a video I just found and linked to, a guy had used rain gutter mesh to lift the foam up and allow the water to flow into the basket a lot easier. That also is a great way to improve on the system as well and something I plan to do.
  9. nabokovfan87
    Nah, not that bad. 2 weeks tops! I've been going very slow and the house got sick so I was down and out for 2-3 weeks. Plants came in, sat another 2 weeks. NBD! I always NEEDED to treat the fish for parasites and this is just part of that process so I know they are good to go. Worms just screwed up my pace, but Thankfully it means I have some awesome help and guidance now on using the meds. The directions on the box are just..... incomplete. Fun fact.... LOL The female cory is about 1/2" bigger than my clown pleco. 😂
  10. nabokovfan87
    Going through this now, final dose of meds (hopefully) and I am still not seeing any of the worms. I fed the fish yesterday, completely screwed up and left the filter off all day (airstone and skimmer ran) and I cleaned the tank today, about to add meds and black it out. @Odd DuckJust trying to clarify steps 4 compared to 5 and 6. This is 2 doses, then 2 additional (step 5), then 2 additional (step 6) over 3 weeks time?
  11. nabokovfan87
    I dig it. Might have to add this to the specimen container mod.
  12. nabokovfan87
    No real changes on test #3. I've gone ahead and set things up for test 4. This being the exact same setup but trying to slow down the water by using something as a baffle. My preferred choice would be eheim mech, my local store didn't have any. In lieu of this, crushed coral might work well but trap a lot of muck. I opted to use some old filter media. Shoutout to my camera for getting literally everything out of focus. There is just over 1/4" of room below the basket (for this specific model) and I think larger filters will have more room, the Tidal 35 I can measure, but it will have less room, and less of an issue. Here is the media in the basket and just for sanity sake It's a single layer on the bottom and the basket works properly without any interference. You can see the blue latch in place as it should be. Initially, the flow is about 40-60% slower than it was previously. I'll keep an eye on this, but I would start by saying.... DO NOT do this without added aeration in your aquarium. The big question is going to be do we see a longer time in-between cleanings and reach our expected goal of ~14 days without bypass.
  13. nabokovfan87
    Alright, Here's the first attempt. So far, not great. I wanted to get something that had a pretty thin handle, but also something that wasn't too thick in the handle so I was sure it could sit pretty flat against the rim. As you can see it drapes down. This led to a few things: 1. The water missed the holes and went right off the side of the strainer and then into the top of the lid. If I didn't have the lid, it would've gone on the wall. This forces you to pour things a bit slower and takes a little longer for you to suspend the weight above the tank. 2. The strainer moves because it's pretty light. 3. I can't rest the edge of the bucket on the rim, easy to have spills up front when trying to aim. I think I can just drill a hole on the handle and hang a weight of some kind and things should be "fine". I'll check around with some of the other options I had selected and see what makes the most sense. I kind of just want to glue on a piece of metal or something in the handle to give it some heft to sit properly.
  14. nabokovfan87
    Yes, from the "re-write directions" thread this is the measurement I use. 1/2 cup per 10G
  15. nabokovfan87
    Pecktec said that he has the same issue and uses very small heaters as a result. Once the waters gets to a certain level, it starts to drop the level. I would also verify that the pump / impeller is clean and add some silicone grease if need be.
  16. nabokovfan87
    Plastic tub on the floor, as long as you can change water, is the best option. Even going to get a 10G or 20L spare tank and have it on the floor for a few weeks, might be an option. Having a specimen container means you can observe the fish and see what's going on.
  17. nabokovfan87
    This is why I was saying, where the fish was located matters. If it was out in a public tank, marked for sale. It's for sale. If it's back in QT and not in public view (was called for, via video) that's a very different sales path. I'm certain Robert / Cory don't bring in fish for special order and then mark them out in public tanks. The customer has a chance to come pick them up and QT themselves or wait for them to be available. It's mentioned in a few of the ACO videos, even on special orders, they still QT them to ensure quality. I do not think the associate should've mentioned at all about "taking some" and specifically not "taking the pretty ones".
  18. nabokovfan87
    100% The wood is closer to the light and centered under the light, so it's getting full force of that PAR. Remove it manually and try to keep it off of there. I would highly suggest some moss or something similar in that spot. Once the other stem plants get a bit taller, it will be less of an issue, but right now lean ferts, lower the light, and try to keep it centered on the plants and not just the wood.
  19. nabokovfan87
    For me.... it's moreso a question of, was the fish available on the floor? If yes, it's available then and you had the right to purchase all of them because you're in the store to do so. "We'll have one pair available in X weeks after QT" would be my response if I was that associate. There's literally no need to mention anything about taking some home, it's irrelevant.
  20. nabokovfan87
    So... let me try to explain. This is where I was saying I had used half-height stuff because I screwed up too cutting foam. If you're looking at the filter from the side: If you don't have 2 layers of the black sponge, all good. The water flow is right to left, but also bottom to top. The fine pad is more restrictive than the coarse pad, so the water will flow up through the coarse pad until it reaches the water surface and then it'll flow to the output.
  21. nabokovfan87
    1. Sticker, none in the tank 2. Ceramic filter media, they literally had this and the house brand, nothing else. 3. Fish Meds, only 2 and we all know which two. I couldn't even find salt. 4. Literally didn't have anything, the moss ball they did have was no longer sellable 5. Interesting because it has the frosted background and the LED in the tank now. Kind of nice to see that. All of the tanks were way too small, everything under 5G. 6. Literally one. I went to the store looking for eheim mech 7. Pretty sure it won't fit a 20L. It doesn't fit my 29G. 8. Only the trio pack 9. 2-3 options for this, that was nice! 10. No replacements, wanted you to buy a whole new unit, specifically the house brand. Basically, I didn't see a lot of the things I used to see. Everything is house brand, you are going to buy an AC or a Top Fin branded filter, even marineland canisters were gone and stuff like that wasn't around anymore. Heaters they had 1 brand, that was it. A lot of stuff was getting replaced / rebranded. There was something.... oh, those old battery powered marina emergency air pumps. They have those in stock now on the house brand. Very weird to see that.
  22. nabokovfan87
    yeah, should be fine. I would still stuff the output side of the fine pad with your ceramic. The black course foam, just lift it above the water. Water hits the fine pad, not really going to want to flow that direction so it should stop the bypass at the top and force the water through the coarse sponge. You've got room in there, so it's all good. You can probably fit 2x the coarse pads, 1x the fine pad, and the ceramic all in that left cavity. I have the same one, lol. It's covered in worms. 😞 After the fine pad. After the water is "cleaned" you would have biological and chemical stuff. Agreed, this is how I did mine. I never was able to just go over it and get the heavier pieces of leftovers.
  23. nabokovfan87
    I totally understand. Let me know what prefilter you end up with. Because of the pump cover it's a bit weird but you can definitely have a prefilter once you block off the skimmer. Before that, I don't think it is viable and I don't think the pump actually inputs water from the bottom intake. Majority of it is from the mid-level and overwhelmingly from the skimmer. I tried the ACO large size, it didn't fit and was pushing on the glass / rim. I purchased it for the larger tidals, need to get a smaller one.
  24. nabokovfan87
    I would've explained to him that you plan to breed, would love to re-sell him some fish. I probably would've just walked out. Clearly the person didn't *want to* let those fish go.
  25. nabokovfan87
    OK OK OK..... woah!!!!!!!! I love good art, this is some fantastic stuff. Nicely done!
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