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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    I feel like an idiot, but trying to dose kanaplex and I can't get the directions straight. 😞 Dosing it every 48 hours. I know you have been going through it with all the treatments and I just wanted to say nice work @Chick-In-Of-TheSea it's not fun to deal with severe gram negative diseases.
  2. nabokovfan87
    That is BBA / Staghorn (potentially both, but I lean towards just BBA). Cut the light duration to 4 hours until you see it die off. I would also start being very lean with dosing, cutting everything back. Lights at 25% and then ramp up very, very slowly. Leave the lights low until you see the plants doing fine and the algae not growing. You can get this type of stuff from an excess of iron, phosphates, potassium, or nitrates. It also is caused by an imbalance of CO2 or inconsistent CO2. Check out my journal. It's a long story, but I've tried a lot of methods to get rid of this stuff.
  3. nabokovfan87
    Get two buckets, move the fish and your filters into tubs at the new location. 20G or so totes and split up whatever need be. You can also drop in the plants and let them float, perfectly fine. These tubs sat for months. I cannot stress it enough.... turn down the lights if you set it up like this. When I moved, I had a bucket for fish, for wood, for plants, for filters. Lids on what I could cover and pumps and air stones on the filter / fish. Then you come back after and get the tank and everything else. You can leave the tank with just an airstone and the plants and all that will do fine (turn off the lights).
  4. nabokovfan87
    Ben Heck (does a lot of EE work, Laser cutters, mods, etc.) https://www.youtube.com/@BenHeckHacks Adam Savage (yep, that one guy): Maker, special effects mastermind, and created anything you can think of. https://www.youtube.com/c/tested/
  5. nabokovfan87
    beautiful!
  6. nabokovfan87
    There is no issue of treating it with hydrogen peroxide at all. Boil the wood, soak it, and then let it soak in a bucket until you're ready to use it. Every day (or every other), dump out the water and add new water. Potentially when you soaked it you didn't change the water enough? You can also add an airstone if you need to. Is it possible the smell came from the snails?
  7. nabokovfan87
    Tagging in @tolstoy21 for some advice on setup for the tank. Please share a photo so that if there is a line of sight issue or something, potentially advice can be given to fix things while moving the fish 🙂 . I would add all your filters (or media) to the current active tank until you have advice on method to do the swap. It gives the media time to build up some bacteria and likely isn't any issue with the setup to add this onto or in the water column near/around the water movement is best. I would run it for 2-3 weeks, then move over the equipment to the new tank. I would dose the new tank if you have liquid bacteria. If not, just be patient and feed light to give things time. pea puffers can be a very sensitive species, so I would really try to give them a clean, viable, and established tank. Don't rush it. Plants will help a ton too.
  8. nabokovfan87
    Very cool, Best of luck with it. For now, try the free google one. I forget the name... he ben heck, on youtube, he uses it and has a ton of great videos on making things. Adam savage is another great one to learn from!
  9. nabokovfan87
    Tagging in @Odd Duck! The term you're looking for is zoonotic diseases. I think it's an important thing for all hobbyists to know and learn about and is something that we honestly don't. At least I know I don't. Have gloves on hand as a part of your kit so that when you're treating something unknown, you can protect yourself and go ahead and do research.
  10. nabokovfan87
    It's typically easier on the fish to give them a break between paracleanse and expel-p. So you would do the med trio, then give them a week off, treat with expel-p. With either paracleanse or expel-p it's difficult to "use the med trio" because you're often needed to do additional steps. Paracleanse and ich-x work well with salt. Especially for external issues. Expel-P and Paracleanse both require rounds of treatment. So doing a 1 week soak isn't going to cure everything. It's a start, but you do need to follow up.
  11. nabokovfan87
    Add an airstone. Drop the temp slightly if you can and report back. Shrimp do that mostly when they are unhappy or trying to find something. Especially when the tank is new.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Yes! And very sensitive to the light. So I've just been trying to let them relax and eat. They look really cool from above.
  13. nabokovfan87
    The good thing about AutoCAD and sketch programs and all of those things is it's very easy to learn. The hard part is learning the standards for materials and all the engineering side of things. Creating the model is quick and fun to do. L for line, c for circle, very easy stuff.
  14. nabokovfan87
    Very confused! My apologies about that. Can you show where you're trying to install the screen? In pretty much any case, you'd want something like that for the sake of having a prefilter and easier maintenance week to week.
  15. nabokovfan87
    So let's say you have a measurement.... 1/2" or half and inch or .5 In terms of engineering, there is a tolerance or variance that is..... Example: .5 = one place dim = +/-.060 = .440-.560 .50 = two place dim = +/- .030 = .470-.530 .500 = three place dim = +/- .010 = .490-.510 Essentially, you're determining how well things fit. If a piece has more rigid material, then depending on application you would won't tighter tolerance (better fit). If things have a bit more malleable material, then tolerance isn't as critical (lower cost). Hopefully that helps to explain some things. Again, all of this isn't something you need to worry about, but it is entirely part of the design process, eventually. Check out whatever Autodesk or dessault systems software. Google also has sketch software that is free and easy. If you're a student you can get just about anything professionals use for free with a student email.
  16. nabokovfan87
    I'll try to sketch out some stuff and scan it tomorrow 🙂 I'll find some videos that might help. Essentially, for a lot of what you're doing it would be better with higher tolerances. There's a few ways to achieve that, but the best way is injection molding. Based on the sketches you have, not difficult at all and you're talking about three place dimensions being possible. Material choice is another critical factor. Something like the aquaclears are more rigid, less flexibility compared to something like the aqueon or marineland hang on back filters. while something like the tidal finds a good balance between both in their material choices. Yes, the seachem tidal has issues with tolerances, but generally speaking the material is a good balance between rigid and flexible. All I was saying, was that depending on how you want the product design to be, it would lean towards one or the other manufacturing processes. The sketches definitely help! Parts are usually designed flat/straight and then the design engineer would go back in and design it for molding. Essentially, input takes water from the tank and output would spill it back in. The extensions to adjust the length can come in a variety of sizes and that would give you the expandability you're looking for. The "starter kit" would essentially be where people start with the product, and then the extensions would be sold separately for the sake of expanding filtration options and adding room for other items in the filter box. That method might make sense for this product, might not be what you're wanting, but I just wanted to mention it in case that helps trigger ideas when you're sketching things. Just meaning pump location, placement, of you want a pump compared to air, etc. Flowrates, all of those things would be "how", but the question is what would work best for your product design.
  17. nabokovfan87
    Sounds about right. 😂 Tank looks great. I'm excited to see how you fill it out! It'll be interesting to hear how things change, how quickly I mean. I've never known anyone personally who used those, but know they are used a lot for shrimp and stuff. Feel better.
  18. nabokovfan87
    For the loaches, I would think flat river rocks in some sort of a pile might be a good piece to add to the hardscape. When Rachel O'leary setup her tank, she would have gravel like that as well as some piles of rocks. They usually like to graze on those as well.
  19. nabokovfan87
    I still don't have any idea as to how many there are. Feeding plan for now: Day 1: Bottom Scratcher Day 2: Soilent Green Day 3: Community blend Day 4: Soilent Greeen Day 5: Bottom Scratcher (etc. etc.) I think there is about 25-30 fry, maybe more, maybe less. I really just cannot tell. I do like that they have a lot easier time reaching the surface of the water to gulp air. I couldn't imagine doing this in the actual tank with fish and I can understand why, even with cover, I would only get a handful of fry each time. Big spawns, but ~10 or so on a good spawn. Here's the check-in tonight. Still very hard to photograph and focus with the reflections on the box.
  20. nabokovfan87
    Slightly easier to see here. They are enjoying the moss for sure. How many is in there, I have no idea.
  21. nabokovfan87
    I have done all kinds of plastics work on manufacturing side. I can give you an idea of "how", but I kind of need to see it. Basically, you can design any shape you need and then decide how to make it. The other way is possible, design things in such a way so that you make it cheaper to produce up front. The typical method for these types of things is going to be one kit that includes the input and one for output followed by the center sections that you can then add on. Just something to think about in the design is "how" it integrates and functions from section to section, especially with the tank. a lot of them are food grade silicone seals.
  22. nabokovfan87
    @Chick-In-Of-TheSea I tried...
  23. nabokovfan87
    My apologies. Just now seeing this. They are somewhat. It's always been home to a RTBS and home to whatever random community fish I had. Planted tank and then some algae eaters. Definitely not species only, but definitely a tank where they are comfortable. I saw this today, pretty amazing stuff.
  24. nabokovfan87
    Considering the things you have gotten to spawn, that's tough to hear! I would be very intrigued to hear all about the setups you have, especially the L169s! I have had some stubborn breeders too and I know all the common tips don't always work out. If you haven't, check out plecoceramics.
  25. nabokovfan87
    Absolutely agreed. There are two major factors here, well... three. A. What pore size is the foam B. How are you cleaning it C. How much air is going through it If you have courser sponge, then I would opt towards more mechanical work on the sponge side of things. More passes through the foam, more gunk gets clogged, and you have a better chance to polish the water of fine material. If you clean it using a bag, compared to lifting it and all of the muck comes detached, it tends to leave a cleaner tank. Siphoning the water is critical because you still will have stuff all over the tank. Yes, there is flow, but there is a lot of junk that wont get touched by your every day sponge filter. You're going to have mulm, generally on a sponge tank moreso than you do other filtration. Especially because people tend to run them lower on the airflow side more often than not. If you run less air, or you have one specifically that doesn't let you use an air stone, then you're going to have a lot of disturbance at the surface. Some fish, some tanks can't handle this too well. If you have an adjustable air stone, then you can adapt that flow higher compared to all other setups resulting in better flow through the sponge. If you're worried about "fines" and crystal clear water, I would encourage you to run one fine and one course ACO style filter.
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