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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. There is absolutely some up front costs, one time costs associated! Welcome to the forum (and the hobby) though. It's a rewarding experience if it is something you enjoy and it sounds like you do!
  2. Agreed @lefty o there's a lot of different grades, types, and shapes of metal. All of which vary batch to batch, let alone material type. One of the big issues is always going to be what is the specific spec that you're using and is that best server for underwater use. There may be an avenue of research given for something like engineering guides. Usually there is a spec, SAE or ANSI or something on the material itself that you can use to verify the material. If there isn't a stamped spec, then you're pretty much just guessing at what you're working with. Older stock may have the markings removed too. My analogy initially when seeing the thread title would've been cooking pans and how stainless vs. carbon steel vs. aluminum vs. copper pans all leech different things. There is some research and studies into this topic and that might be helpful for you.
  3. SWEET! I got a video once of this thing in mine.... this is what one of the critters in my tank looked like. I have a few. Yours looks like the top left there or bottom middle?
  4. That is awesome though! I'm thankful in this day and age that it was this type of result and there was that rabbit hole to explore. Ah, that's great! @A3M0N has a really useful journal and setup that might be a fun one for you to check out! Please be sure not to have any issues with the CO2 and the wall. (I don't share this to scare you, but just to point to someone here that has a wonderful tank and is running a similar setup!) Welcome to the forums, happy to have you here. 🙂
  5. Yes and no.... You have a glass box with water and plants. I have zero context for the time that it's been setup. Think of this like making bread, you're resting the dough right now. Honestly, the longer you let things gel, the better off you are long term. For some seriously delicate plants that could be up to a month for the carpeting plants to take hold! More reasonably though, I would get yourself a test kit and then proceed through verifying what your water parameters are. If you haven't been doing normal water changes, go ahead and make sure you're treating this like any normal aquarium and doing all the maintenance you would normally do. Planted substrates as well, you'd be doing water changes more often. What is the first inhabitant you wish to add, how many?
  6. Try to find a spudger. It's a thing they use for electronics as a pick.
  7. Most dechlorinators will have a "works for 24 hours" statement as well as a clarification of recommending only to dose at most once per 24 hours. The product removes oxygenation from the water and using too much, too often can cause stress. Ultimately, daily 50% (or higher) water changes are your friend at the time of poor water parameters. That being said there are other things to investigate and look into. Do you have parameters for KH? Not sure what that 4th one over is on this chart. With regards to the test you're using are we talking strips? I'll check into it tomorrow when its light out. Should I continue adding bacteria until the issue resolves? Oxygenation is your friend! More on this in a moment, I'm trying to catch up on all of the posts... Alright.... so there's a lot going on. Photos help immensely, so if possible please upload some shots of what you're dealing with. A photo of the filtration and how it works may be beneficial as well. Let's say that your filtration is adequate, but the pump on the filter or the design of the filter for whatever reason isn't giving you enough oxygenation. This could lead to PH drops. This also could lead to stability issues and something like "old tank syndrome" symptoms showing up. The goal here is to minimize stress and to increase stability.... If this were my tank I would approach the issue in a few main avenues. `1. Consider a 20H or 20L as opposed to a 10G if stocking is a concern. 2. Review / improve filtration, add an auxiliary filter, or boost up the biological side of the filter in some capacity. Clean and verify all equipment is working properly, test everything and verify with a secondary test if possible. 3. Check for sources of stress (disease, aggression) and contamination to the water quality. This could just be time to do a deep clean, a few deep siphons, check for bodies, or it could just be time to get the water changes back on rhythm. If I ever have a tank that shows ammonia or nitrite, then: -Instant large water change, usually 50-80%. -dose in dechlorinator as part of this process -check that tank for issues / deaths -add in aquarium salt -Daily water changes (50%) until the issue is resolved -Deep clean all filtration and clean all equipment. Check all impellers. -Add in an airstone
  8. One of the pads has some contamination. The light purple = off the scale to the right. Demonstrated / explained in this video.
  9. You won't have to worry about it lowering PH because it's going to be extremely small compared to the water volume. As for how to prep the wood I just do something like this: Consider dragon stone as a hide for shrimp as well.
  10. I just wanted to share this for anyone interested. New tech is always fun for me! They have a few lights on the ADA side, I believe this is the more "budget friendly" type of light. What stands out first to me is how wide the lighting span is!
  11. It looks like 80-90 to me. I would recommend trying to have a GH/KH test kit (API liquid) on hand. It's not the most fun thing in the world, but it does make it nice when you run into issues. If you keep any invertebrates it's a very invaluable tool!
  12. They have metal (stainless steel usually) brushes you can use if they don't come off easily. I ended up using a small knife or my fingernail. Something like a spackle knife would work too (metal kind).
  13. Not a nano tank but it that's a whole different conversation! (Everything is relative) The tank is torn apart right now but that's the last shot I have. The first photo is from feeding this morning. I have a journal if you want to follow along, link is in the signature. Very exciting to see everyone on the forums working on shrimp! Are you thinking something like painted fire reds or what kind of shrimp? For plants, in that size tank... Check this out. 🙂 I also love a setup like this for shrimp! Wood is a must for me with them. 🙂
  14. See what it looks and feels like during a water change and the tank is drained. Might be some silicone or something that you have to take off with a razorblade.
  15. They all run around with it like they are afraid they won't get a piece. I definitely appreciate smaller granules compared to the "logs" that I have currently. I'm excited for when this food is done. The small little cichlid veggie stuff I have or something like algaemax, I can only imagine how well they would do with it. Agreed. The hikari size/shape is great! For amanos, man they could eat wafers and not care, but the neos are a bit different. They are so awesome to watch. Seriously. Ah. Good point. They are too small to do any damage in terms of breeding, so no big deal for another few weeks.
  16. This is the approach I'm taking as well. I don't know when I am "allowed to" cull, but hopefully soon. My secondary method, considering I am pulling molts all day is to be a bit liberal with the calcium based foods (i.e. shrimp food) for the shrimp as opposed to other things for color or fiber or anything right now. I don't really understand.... I feel like I've been feeding a ton for months and barely any of the shrimp food jar is empty. 😞 I feel like it's not being fed "quick enough" to even justify the food of this size being sold! I do only have one tank, eventually two, but it's a funky issue to consider. Congratulations on the success and sense of accomplishment. As you know.... keep an eye out, stay at the ready for when you need to toss in some salt or something and ensure nothing is around.
  17. A stack of 3 buckets high of 5G buckets with lids. The bottom one was salt water for amano shrimp breeding supplies and equipment. Then, Next up on the stack was just old hardscape and all that, trying to keep things out of the way. Finally, there was the "active bucket" which amounted to my siphon, nets drying out, random supplies, and a plethora of whatever else needed to be cleaned up.
  18. Anywhere from 3-7 days is fine. Take your time and let the tank really be able to do it's thing.
  19. Full course is 3 treatments (one week essentially)
  20. Uplift tube or does that disturb nthe surface too much for the bubble nest? The shrimp will be good with him. They will definitely learn there is a predator around.
  21. Maybe you have a dish sponge and just use that?
  22. Start here to get an idea of the process. It affects the contact time on the media... Good thing. It will reduce some surface movement, but not anything too crazy. @Colu@ @Odd Duck any ideas on this? Maybe a substrate or hardscape irritation or some sort of internal damage? See the photo above. May have progressed. I agree originally it might have just been egg bound but the video showed a lot of stress. Maybe the eggs are stuck?
  23. Little tiny baby shrimp. Super strange @nabokovfan87. I lost a wild shrimp overnight. The shell split for molting down near the tail instead of behind the carapace. Very strange! It can happen though if they are thrashing a bit I would think. I was looking for molts and found a head of someone. 😕
  24. I'm struggling with this as well. Trying so hard to get fry and it's been months. One of the females is going to release any moment now and it's just a bit awkward to judge the timing. In my other tank, there's 4 females and 2 males and they just don't seem interested. Maybe they had their fry already and they didn't make it or they were just absorbed. So difficult to judge.
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