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Fish Folk

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Everything posted by Fish Folk

  1. We use H2O2 for two purposes: (1) Remove hardscape covered with BBA, and douse it _outside_ the tank with H2O2. When returned to the tank, after a couple of days, it turns rusty-colored and then dies. (2) Instead of using methylene blue to protect against fungus on eggs we pull, we use over-the-counter 3% H2O2. It is a very light amount . . . 1 ml. / 1 gallon . . . every 12 hrs, for 3x times (36 hrs).
  2. Yes! Piorkowski does have a nice video series on them, and some nice articles written.
  3. Makes sense. Storm fronts moving through lower BP, and triggers spawning. Just did a simple science experiment: (1) boil water in pan on stove (2) pour into large mason jar and cover with plastic wrap (3) just when bubbles stop rising, place a frozen cold pack on top outside surface of plastic wrap... the jar begins to boil again! Cold air drops pressure, and pressure from heated water responds. I think it’s the same thing on a micro-scale with fish. They are used to certain pressures at certain barometric levels in aquaria, but when low pressure on air surface draws out (on a micro level) their organs, they are triggered. So... one way to trigger some fish to spawn may be to lay cold packs across lexan / glass lids to simulate storm... just a random idea!
  4. We hatch a small amount of Artemia daily in 1x liter hatchery (we run two, and alternate days). We turn off the air, let the settle towards light or bottom, draw out with a turkey baster, then squirt through a brine shrimp net back into the hatchery. Then we dunk the netted bbs into a 1/2 gal. Lee’s large specimen container filled with tap water. Then, set by a light, wait for the bbs to congregate by the light, and draw out with a 10-ml. syringe from WalMart with airline tubing on the end. As Daniel says, it may not matter. However, if you’re feeding certain fish / fry, the increase of conductivity via salinity can eventually pose some problems when fish (or fry) are kept in very tight quarters.
  5. If we're successful, we may end up moving our colony of doadrioi up to a 40 gal breeder. I think they'd do better, as you describe, in a larger tank with lots of plant cover. Would love to see some photos of your splendens and toweri.
  6. Yeah, it's tricky to catch all of those eggs when they fall off of surfaces. Yes, we just go to WalMart Pharmacy and ask if they happen to have any oral medicine syringes available to children's tylenol. They have just given them to us when we ask -- and even the we offer to buy, they just give them. There may be some for sale too, but those blue WalMart ones work very well. Yes, we just attach normal airline to the tip. Works like a charm! You'll want an adjuster on the air. It shouldn't be too rough, but enough to give a gentle flow in the container. We use the Lee's large specimen containers, which hold about 1/2 gallon (if I remember correctly). Be careful about the H2O2. 0.25 ml. is right for the smaller container . . . but it's always touch and go. What we do, is add it only 3x times, once every 12 hrs (morning / evening / morning . . . DONE). As long as the eggs don't turn white, they're potentially fertile. I bet those angels were NOT happy when you pulled those eggs!
  7. Thanks Kat_Rigel! We actually moved them all over to a private school where we set up a classroom tank for 5th graders the past couple years. At the front end of this video, you can really see how phenomenal these guppies came out from just about 8x _lame_ guppies from PetSmart. As long as you run them through the med trio, they're fine. Check these out . . .
  8. After we raised them, here's what the fry looked like before we sold them all . . .
  9. We found that in a 20 gal. long (75.7 liter) aquarium, one breeding pair of Kribensis (pelvicachromis pulcher) benefitted from sharing the space with a tight-schooling group of 9x Brilliant rasboras (Rasbora einthovenii). Here is a breeding journal video we made last year . . .
  10. In Western Maryland, we bought about 8x or so guppies. Random mix, bought cheap at PetSmart. Did Med trio indoors, then put out in the pond. Pulled out 70+ really colorful guppies at the end of the summer, brought inside, and eventually sold for $100. Fun little experiment. Couple of videos here...
  11. Good advice from Struggle. We are pretty limited with how much we can feed. Maybe 1x - 2x zucchini disks a day, plus we fed other things (sera-micron, bbs, algae wafers) in a wood-filled, oak-leaf-litter-bottomed grow out tank.
  12. The clear / gray eggs are fertile. Maybe you’ve got some also on the glass. Young male probably. You can scrape them gently off surfaces with an old credit card.
  13. Greg is awesome! Enjoyed meeting him at our fish club when he came to give a talk on selective breeding.
  14. You must have well-seasoned wood. Also I recommend dead, dried oak leaf litter. You also should feed zucchini. You do not need to weigh it down if you prep a little. First, slice into salad-bar-sized discs. Then cut off the rind. Then boil for a minute or so until they sink. Sometimes push them under water boiling in a pan with the back of a large kitchen spoon. If you have time to watch, here’s a crazy BAP journal on a spawn from last year. Not an ideal breeding scenario by far! but nature finds a way... [Go to 7:44 on the video to see an example of things specifically discussed in this thread]
  15. EBAs are favorites of ours! Hatched out a batch a few months ago. Selling at our LFS already. We split parents up from fry. This video shows both tanks.
  16. Yes. Alder cones — grow wild out where we live — and small fragments of catappa leaves help mitigate fungus, and provide source decomposition for micro life (infusoria, et al).
  17. Does the Marina unit allow water flow-through from the tank? Maybe try the Lee’s small. First, check to see exactly how much water it holds so that your anti-fungal treatment isn’t too much. BTW: those angels may try to DESTROY you when you go for the eggs. Also... not to be a wet blanket... just a quick glance at your photos leaves me wondering if you’re eggs are fertile. If they’re a solid bright white the day after you pull them, it may be an unfertilized batch.
  18. So, if you really want to try to hatch babies, reach in and snip the strand of val, and move to a container suspended inside the tank (or to another empty tank with the same chemistry and temperature). Add an air stone to churn the water. You can use tank water, or 1/2 tank water / 1/2 R.O. (or bottled) water. Add the prescribed amount of methylene blue drops... or Hydrogen Peroxide 3% solution (1 ml / 1 gal). Wait 3-5 days. Remove white fungus-covered eggs with a pipette each time you check. Here’s a couple videos that explain it:
  19. Anabantids are labyrinth breathers. Hardest development point seems to be when fry are developing this organ. Lots of breeders struggle at first. Some folks cover the entire top in plastic wrap to ensure uniform humidity...
  20. Congratulations! I think Gourami parents usually tend to the eggs & nest (?) until fry hatch. Any chance the Angelfish and Catfish could vacation in another tank awhile? Cut back on flow too for little fry.
  21. (Awkward to quote my own comment 😂) but come to think of it, those big indoor tubs Cory has been working with might work very, very well for Goodeids!
  22. Well, we just got ours, so not sure. Greg Sage suggests moving gravid females out to a separate tank if you want to keep most all the fry. However, we’ve read that if there’s several generations going in your starting group (I.e. some mature adults, and some younger ones) then they tend to leave fry alone.
  23. I’ve heard they buckle once temps go into upper 70s or higher. For us in Western Maryland, I doubt they’d do well since our tubs get hot through the summers (90-F).
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