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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    1 per 5G or 1 per 3 might not be enough. I would try 1 per 2 gallons. Honestly. If you can show the white spots that helps a lot. If you're actively seeing ich, then you would need to treat with ich-x as well as the salt. @Colu do you have that chart for ich vs epistylis? This one seems very fast moving and very high death rate.
  2. nabokovfan87
    I would recommend having a liquid GH/KH test kit prior to dosing any buffers in and verify what you're seeing. Flashing could be a sign of a variety of things. Mid-level swimming is an interesting issue. I'm not sure what to make of that. I assume it's acclimating to temperature swings, but that's difficult to say. Can you please retest ammonia, nitrite daily at this point and report back? There's got to be more going on here and the acclimation process is really causing havoc on these guys, unfortunately. I would limit feeding too every other day for right now. This cuts back on waste, ammonia production, and helps them to have enough food to stay healthy, but not too much food to cause more issues. Are you doing daily water changes?
  3. nabokovfan87
    I'd have to agree here. We live in a very old house with "needs to be replaced asap" pipes. It's something where I know we have copper pipes. That being said, I use tap water. I don't have issues. I would argue poor oxygenation is a bigger concern than something like copper pipes. Shrimp DO NEED some copper to function. Metals in the water, use good dechlorinator. Beyond that, I haven't had issues.
  4. nabokovfan87
    Keep an eye on things. Hopefully the fish respond well to the changes.
  5. nabokovfan87
    😞 😞 😞 😞 I hope everything is ok. I hope you're doing better!
  6. nabokovfan87
    Drop the temps down to 72-74 if possible. They don't like to be that hot. Apart from temp, both KH and GH are very low. It's likely causing some issues here. I would encourage you to double check everything by taking a sample of water to the pet store or by using an API liquid test kit. The kit is very affordable, very quick and easy to use. Adding GH: Seachem Equilibrium Adding KH: Seachem alkalinity buffer or crushed coral This is very normal for small groups of corydoras. Some won't come out unless they see dithers or unless it's dawn/dusk. Having something like logs to provide cover helps as well. they don't like to feel exposed or in bright lights, especially when in small groups.
  7. nabokovfan87
    Yeah, but it's fine... I can handle a little pout. I learned a trick from my Grandma about that one. 😂 I definitely don't think it works on a fish though. A very charming little fish.
  8. nabokovfan87
    It sounds like normal sand things. Just move it around with your fingers/hands/chopstick/net handle to mix things up each time you do a cleaning. It helps to get stuff in the water column too (after a siphon).
  9. nabokovfan87
    Good to hear. I spent some time last night watching the worms on the glass in my tank 😞
  10. nabokovfan87
    Nope! Had it before. 😂
  11. nabokovfan87
    I don't know how you couldn't just greet this one like you're obi wan kenobi every day. "Oh, hello there." 🙂
  12. nabokovfan87
    Method 1. open the bag and add 1-2 drops of dechlorinator. Move that to a bucket or specimen container. Add an airstone as soon as possible, then you drip acclimate like shrimp. (you can do this with an airline and a pretty quick flow with most fish) Method 2. You cut the bag open, they go into a net, into your tank with good parameters and adequate aeration.
  13. nabokovfan87
    Do you have a PN on the light hood itself? Usually it's a bit easier to go that way. From what I can tell, it's the single LED array strips you see that are just held in place and don't do much more than illuminate the space. Very, very low par, minimal wattage. It's there for something like anubias as best.
  14. nabokovfan87
    Those white clouds look gigantic!
  15. nabokovfan87
    Salt helps too for some of that, even a mild dose. Don't forget to add air. Sounds like you've got a good plan in place and you have all the need be things.
  16. nabokovfan87
    KH being 0 is likely an issue for stability. Any amount of waste, your PH shoots down pretty hard. GH, you're saying 25 or "soft" but do you mean 25 ppm or 25 degrees? I would recommend going to get a KH/GH test kit (liquid) to verify what is really going on. From what you're saying, you have RO water out of the tap and it would be pretty tough on some fish to thrive in that. What is your temperature? https://www.planetcatfish.com/common/species.php?species_id=271 https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/corydoras-paleatus/ My recommendation would be: Temp: 72-74 pH: 6.8-7.4 GH: 6-8 degrees <--- Double your KH value KH: 3-4 degrees <--- Gives you PH stability given what you're seeing, I would recommend adding another.
  17. nabokovfan87
    When you did the WC did you accidentally forget to dose dechlorinator? Adding salt is a good idea to help soothe/prevent damage from ammonia or nitrite issues. Among other things it's helpful for, salt is specifically good with that. I've had my corydoras on a plethora of salt levels. I recommend for the 1 tbsp per 2 gallons as a safer level, but they definitely can handle 1 tbsp per gallon. I would recommend verifying temp is ok, adding more air and more surface agitation when possible. When you add salt too, add more air. When you add meds, add more air. Right now it seems like there's a lot going on and I would just focus on daily testing, good aeration, and clean water. Once we have an idea of what you're dealing with it'll be easier to advise moving forward and next steps. Right now, try to run carbon, remove meds, keep the tank clean, and proceed with a high quality water.
  18. nabokovfan87
    @tetra Can you please give us full details of tank setup, parameters, including temp. If they are breathing rapidly, add an airstone asap.
  19. nabokovfan87
    I say minimum 50 corydoras! (Some will suggest about 15-25 though. 🙂 ) Otos, 4-6 works well. Amano shrimp, as many as you want, 15-25 works well Pleco 1-3 works well. Kuhli loaches, I am not sure.... Nah. Should be fine.
  20. nabokovfan87
    @DaniV Just a heads up, you're on deck for the next one! 🙂 Looking forward to what you choose for us. No rush at all. (let us know the first week of October)
  21. nabokovfan87
    Found one of mine.
  22. nabokovfan87
    They will grow a new one! Happy anubias though. Well done. 🙂
  23. nabokovfan87
    Found it. If you need more I can dig for it. @HelplessNewbie https://www.aqueon.com/-/media/project/oneweb/aqueon/files/us/set-up-guides/ascent_setupguide-pdf.pdf
  24. nabokovfan87
    If you're running any HoBs you should be able to pull media from those and just replace it. (or a portion of it) The other trick people use it squeezing out a sponge in the QT tank and then let that run. You can always set it up and decide not to use it, but if you're undecided, just set it up and decide later.
  25. nabokovfan87
    I have a 10G I have on hand for major issues. Worse case, I use a 5G bucket, but it's best to have something you can visually see into. I take media (preferably ceramic) from an existing filter and add that to the QT setup as a QT tank or I have a small HoB I can run. I add new media to the existing, cycled tank to re-populate with bacteria and that will not impact that tank whatsoever. Then you add a piece of wood to the tote/tank/bucket and fill it with water. When I am done, I break it down and clean it. I understand it's not perfect because it hasn't been running for months, but you can setup a cycled, reliable, stable QT setup in minuted, not days or weeks. The longer you have it running, the better.
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