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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Ok. We'd want to make sure he's moving. If you don't see anything, unfortunately it could be a sign of the bacteria and such trying to process the snail body. The test you have is for ammonia only. Do you have any other tests? Test strips or other test kits?
  2. nabokovfan87
    Pictures help clarify things if you are able to take some for us 🙂 . Basically there is 3 tests. One is for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are separate tests. Have you see the snail move?
  3. nabokovfan87
    Pretty sure I just failed with it again. Lasted a decent amount of time, light got turned up, but might be too little / too late. Lost all the leaves and what was 7 stems is now 3. It's not looking great. 😞 This is the first time I've had issues and it's not from algae, so that's a major improvement. This plant always defeats me, but I will get it going one of these days. Planning on modifying setup when I move tanks to allow for better root feeding. I'm hoping this small tweak helps everything to take off.
  4. nabokovfan87
    I went to check on the tank, just to see how algae is doing (lighting adjustments and all that). Grace hanging out with the corydoras, then she saw me try to get a photo and ran to her cave. "hi dad, how are you today" Checking on the amanos, small, medium, and then a big one! This is one of the older ones hanging out on the moss. Seemed like they could use some shrimp pellets, so I went ahead and tossed a few in. Tried to take a photo of the smaller corydoras in the back and guess who decided to photobomb And of course the (yes 3) males in there being boisterous and wanting some attention 🙂 A few minutes passed since the food was dropped for shrimp and I see the small corydoras going bananas! Hard to see in the photo, but about 15 of them swam to the front glass trying to find food. I tossed in some wafers and they acted like they didn't JUST EAT. Parents got a little food and then waited to go sit away from the foodball. This is one of the larger females. She knows she's the boss, but had her bites of food and went to go relax 🙂
  5. nabokovfan87
    A couple of caveats here.... In my tank I just tested TDS this morning. I can't say whether its one or the other, but my own variables may help you to understand how to view it. A. There is a formula for converting degrees of hardness to ppm, that's where you have the 10-15 converting to 178-267. B. TDS is just a thing, doesn't mean anything outside of what the particles are in the water. It could be literally anything. C. GH is more specific than KH, but both would show up as TDS. My TDS in the tank tested 270 (other parameters below). My PH is 7, my KH is 60-80, my GH ranges from 150 all the way up to 400 on any given week. Water company is doing some things. Ultimately, you can't really determine what is in the water from TDS alone. You need to test KH and GH by themselves. Equilibrium directly relates to your GH increasing. Acid buffer directly relates to your KH and PH decreasing. Alkaline buffer directly relates to your KH and PH Increasing. They have two forms of a calculator on their pages on their website, one is a chart, the other would be where you enter your tank parameters and get an idea of what to dose in. https://www.seachem.com/alkaline-buffer.php#tabsNavigationSimple2 When I started buffering mine, this is the method I used. I only use alkalinity buffer. If I overdose, then you'd use acid buffer to bring it back down. Please feel free to ask more questions. Hopefully we can get clarity on everything for you!
  6. nabokovfan87
    I like the adjustment, nice choice. I can just imagine some barbs hanging out under the branch.
  7. nabokovfan87
    I would always add a plant or what not to get it to a certain $ threshold to be able to order. The last few I've just said to myself to get what I need and only what I need. (still always forget one thing). But the shipping price is very, very reasonable.
  8. nabokovfan87
    I would think the 55 is enough, but I get it. I just wanted to mention to double check pump is working well and moving. If you're having constant spikes, apart from cutting back on food, I would check to see if you can find any dead bodies 😞 . Sanity check and all that aside, best of luck sorting it out. You've got a good plan in place and looking forward to seeing things sort themselves out!
  9. nabokovfan87
    I'll check everything out. It's not leveled, room is FULL of stuff on the floor so I'm hoping whatever you're seeing is just a camera trick. I cut the background last night, need to move power over and adjust a few things. It's in place though Definitely can make that happen. Thank you! 🙂
  10. nabokovfan87
    Longer tanks, I think it's easier to divide them up and separate territories. For taller tanks, I don't think it would work well to mix them up, given the limited area. This is all relative to the size of the tank though. In general terms, they occupy the same place in the tank and there is room for confrontation. When breeding, they will have their area and no one is getting in. It might be stressful on the parents if you have things mixed in that way and they feel like they have to be on guard and highly protective of their lay spots. Apisto have their cave and should generally have an easier time of it, but if you have stations / setups for each species it can work. I would only, personally, opt for one of them though.
  11. nabokovfan87
    Welcome to the forums. You can absolutely use just a sponge filter. I have 2 tanks right now that run purely off of sponge filters. Some species want more movement, which is where a "power filter" or hang-on filter comes in handy. You can get a pump a certain size for the species in question, there's a little bit more circulation by comparison to a sponge, but the big difference is that you have a modified flow pattern. Sponges will circulate water one way, the powered filters will flow in a different way. You may have more mulm on the water compared to Hang-on back filters, but all of them have their dead spots depending on your setup and scape.
  12. nabokovfan87
    compost it!
  13. nabokovfan87
    The flat rocks I like the layout and how you have them. The rocks on top of the wood at the focal point, those are there just to make sure the wood sinks? That branch that shoots off to the right, the lighter one that is front+center and sloping down, I think it might do better for you sloping upward.
  14. nabokovfan87
    Yeah, I think in terms of cost it's just easier on warehouse and on storage for the salt and lights to be shipped that way. Probably makes sense for substrate too! They used to do the same thing for rock orders, lights were always that way given a certain size I believe, and Cory has mentioned specifically that they designed the brine shrimp salt to be handled that way to reduce issues. It's nice, awesome to see stuff arriving so well instead of the Amazon method of shipping a pack of pens in a TV box or something.
  15. nabokovfan87
    This is my 48" light. It's been "reset" so to speak back to my starting tweak. If you ever have this light and just aren't sure, this is my own personal starting point. More demanding plants, eventually adjust light intensity up. Less demanding plants, like only anubias, then you can likely adjust lower. Shallower tank, probably start lower. I scale these all at the same ratio and try to keep the same spread/settings for each channel in relation to pure white.
  16. nabokovfan87
    With shrimp, probably best to just run it with them. It's alive. I'm sure Grace will try to jump over into it while I'm asleep, but hopefully she can wait a few days for me to get it setup and running. 🙂
  17. nabokovfan87
    Unfortunately they don't have a parts store. I did find one via ebay that may have what you're looking for. You'd need to look up the manual and go from there for the specific item you require.
  18. nabokovfan87
    Hey hey everyone, I got some new beans and I'm excited to try them and thought I'd share! Please feel free to share what you're sipping (coffee or tea) and whatever you think of it! To be clear I am no expert but just enjoy tasting and cooking. Trying new things in this way. My method of brewing probably isn't great and may affect things, but it's all good. 🙂 Grounds: sort of a light oak and semisweet chocolate note. Smells a bit like thick dark chocolate syrup, but not exactly. Nose: Wow! Smells a bit like fresh orange or lemon zest. Maybe a mix of both. First Sip: Taste like jasmine tea with a little bit of lemon. Very interesting..... A little acidic. Finish: Ends with a bit of that chalky chocolate syrup. Semisweet chocolate and oak flavor.
  19. nabokovfan87
    This is why so many of my test results are just the ranges I think are right listed. 😂
  20. nabokovfan87
    Maybe three! They might school for you too. 🙂 I think the AC50 works, especially if you're planning on doing the siphoning and stuff if the filter has any dead spots. The loaches and SAE would appreciate higher flow, a note on what Cory mentioned, but I think everything should work well. Add an extra airstone or you see them craving oxygenation. 100W vs other wattage, the main question is always what is the room temperature in winter? If it's ~20F higher than ambient you might want to size up, but if the room is generally closer to the room temp than you would likely be perfectly fine based on everyone's recommendations above. This chart below is generally what I find to be a useful tool. Cube tank vs. a longer tank, given that, I think you're good with one heater of adequate size. For conversion sake: 20F is approximately 11.1C
  21. nabokovfan87
    I dig the rimless setup. Very nice!
  22. nabokovfan87
    I'm still surprised by the conference call radio method to help a customer. Boggles the mind.
  23. nabokovfan87
    For reference, this is my tiger Barb tank. At one time I had 15. At one point I had 30. It's a very nice tank and I definitely miss it. Size aside, the behavior of the fish is where my focus is. Having a fish that will destroy the rest of them for the sheer survival of itself isn't condusive to what your goal is. I watched the barbs in that tank kill off one another one by one. The weakest one in the group was always stressed and attacked until it was removed to recover or killed. You have to know how to care for these ones and have adequate setup to do so, like a secondary QT/recovery tank. Toss in something like a RTBS (also in this tank) and you're giving that fish something to go after if they get to close to the sharkminnow's area. If that area isn't big enough, the barbs have nowhere to escape to and they will either jump or die from those wounds. I think the main goal here is that we all want you to succeed. No one wants to step in and say "do it this way or else" and I think all of us were focused on answering your question. As @mynameisnobody. mentioned, sometimes we have to ask clarifying questions. Sometimes we need more detail and that detail sheds new light on the situation. Best of luck with your tank and your fish.
  24. nabokovfan87
    From the start it's too small. They get overly stressed and aggressive when closed in and will kill other fish to protect their area. I recommend minimum a 40B or preferably a 75G for that species. This also applies to most semi aggressive or aggressive species. Bala sharks, barbs, etc. For clarity, you might get one RTBS that is very mild mannered. Similar to Betta where personality does come into play. Small, they are very calm and cruise around. I do think they'd go after barbs in general due to behavior and how they navigate the tank. Once the RTBS realizes it's the tank boss and sets its boundary it will be pretty dominant towards anything around there. When I had mine in a non optimal situation I used a large pleco cave and that fish seemed to really prefer a cave to protect and claim.
  25. nabokovfan87
    That's just fun! Mine do the same thing with pandas and the black corydoras. Then you saw Grace doing it too. 😂
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