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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. some are absolutely safe. Some will wear over time and then the paints and coatings leech into the water. Unfortunately I can't say which works well and which doesn't because there's not really a certain brand that always does it one way. I'll give you an example of a few I had: ^^ Both of these are relatively small. Ultimately used for bottom feeders, catfish caves, but they are either open or very small for the fish. The fish quickly outgrow them. I would prefer standard slate / ceramic caves because they can be generally larger. I also use food stacked now to provide the same affect. Below is another example of these type of decor pieces. it is very exposed and open on all sides. Fish would go in and basically try as hard as they could to avoid light. 4 big openings on the piece and it's very hard for them to feel safe with that. The ships, most of them are similar in flaws or things to look out for... Fish can swim in, but sometimes they just get lost and get stuck. Some of them have holes that go up the masts to let the air bleed out. I had to plug all of those with silicone after some fish went in, got lost, and then went in and got stuck quite a few times. There's not a lot of swim throughs on the sails, etc. This bit of decor is probably one of the biggest issues around. It's been reported many times to cause issues with fish. The bottom of each leg is hollow all the way to the top of the piece. There is a very large 1" diameter hole and then there are several smaller ones for air. I lost a few fish and then had to go back to sealing up all of the holes. Pinholes are fine. small holes are fine. but the majority of holes in these things are sizes that fish will want to use as a hide. It's very dangerous because they can get in pretty easily, but have a hard time getting out. Paint and all that other stuff aside, that's the main issue.
  2. Pleco, cherry barbs, and white clouds would be wonderful. There is also stuff like neon green rasbora or emerald green rasbora, a variety of species that would do great! The tanks looks nice, well scaped, and I look forward to seeing it all grown out. 🙂
  3. Cory has said he has had a bottle for a very long time and he considers it to not expire. It was in one of his older vlog videos. You just want to basically make sure it hasn't settled, shake it to ensure things are mixed up, then go back to using a bottle like normal that has been sitting for a while. If you're running into an issue, for sure reach out to support. It's not just there for asking for replacement/refund, but is also a great resource for information on the product you purchase!
  4. 100% this is just the newbie jitters. I actually enjoy and look forward to water changes. It's a break from all the other things in the day. It's something very different than the normal day, and it's a chance to get arms wet and to really see what is going on in the tank. Welcome to the forums @Tfred82!
  5. This is the MSDS for Paraguard ^^ I would dose in salt + ich-X (or paraguard) and Prazi. (all for different things) see method at the end of the post, not all at once! I don't know what the salt dose would be. If it were me, I'd probably do the 1/3 cup per 10G ratio and hope it goes well. Per the Hikari website: Use Prazi, then follow with Ich-X
  6. If he has a review or follow-up video, I'll try to find it.
  7. I use polyfil. It works fine. Every single cartridge based filter that has the white fuzzy stuff on the outsize.... that's polyfil. It's used everywhere. If you're having an issue with water clarity, I dose in some seachem clarity (use your favorite brand) and then polish the water with the HoBs and fine filtration. I also get good results from fine filter pads (pond foams).
  8. In terms of a "somewhat closed" sump. I do like the smaller size they came out with. Itlls be interesting to see what others are using and how you plan to set it up.
  9. What does the space look like? Is it taller and could accommodate a taller sump?
  10. From my own experience, it is pretty important for me to set a timer or at least attempt to keep in mind the time for the testing. The main goal is to test accurate, interpret the test accurately. Time is definitely a factor. Watching the video.... Can you elaborate on which test is which?
  11. I'm thankful you're doing ok. That's tough. Maybe there is a way we can help out in some way (eventually, when you're ready). For now, get better, feel better, stay strong.
  12. Wonderful start! The branches are subtle, but very well places for that tank. I can only imagine how the fish will interact with it.
  13. I was JUST ABOUT to scream to the heavens to recommend that you get the 75. It's so much nicer!!!!!!!! Especially the kids from aqueon. (Via the big box store website and ship them to the house) I'm just going to tell you to setup my dream tank, but that might not be what you want! Get 3-4 schools of different tetras or things that like the 78 deg water and maybe a Bolivian ram in there for fun with some corydoras trilineatus types. The other setup is the barb/rasbora/white cloud setup and just go to town with active, brightly colored, and fun to feed fish. Good substrate (trust me, you won't want to do it over) and stems and such to help give that vertical space some life. Do you have any ideas for hardscape materials and other things?
  14. I would set it for about 8 hours of light. lower intensity and see how the plants do for you. 25-35% power is where I would start. Especially with all of that anubias in the tank right under the light. Welcome to the forums. Best of luck!
  15. First the office cleaned, filters cleaned, kitchen mostly cleaned, and now it's time to attempt to relax and such. I walked in to fix things and the 10G with Riddick smelled real bad. Based on whatever I feed, sometimes that room just stinks pretty badly. Filters and everything cleaned out and I did a pre-emptive test on the big tank just to verify nitrates. Then I tried to dose in easy green.... Turns out my pumphead is/was broken. Probably resulting in a lot of underdosing. I'll use my measure glass and then replace the pumphead, but for the time being it's an annoyance. Riddick is enjoying the moss garden. The rocks in her tank aren't doing well and are starting to grow some BBA. The sand is a pain to clean as always because it's too fine. Eventually I'll add in some better stuff. Just a little bit more effort on my part to keep the tank in check. New stocking, removing the swordtail females from the tank will help with the bioload. Adding the moss will help with the algae. It's all just a matter of time and effort. Not a bad place to be! The big tank is doing just fine. I'll spend some time tomorrow enjoying the tank and hopefully waking up with the ability to sit and watch the fish do their thing. Having more swords in there does help with the activity. I am looking forward to having the fry in there, whenever that happens. I saw a video today with some that were very similar patterns, just much higher quality. I know Goliad farms was growing them at some point. The line being a "berlin black swordtail" variety. I'll post a few photos, but the general consensus is that we're back to the "black corydoras" issue of things being named one thing and there's a variety of species that find themselves in the spatter. The true "berlin black" is high quality, great pattern, orange and black and green with a jet black sword. The ones I have are really awesome, wonderful, but I do need to make sure genetically they are ok. A project under the way and working on that with @Minanora. Here is the ones I saw in the video. The orange on the top fins a bit more intense, something I can slightly adapt with food. The lower fins on mine have a light blue (getting more intense) color. The body looks great, the sword is a jet black on mine as opposed to the mix with the "neon" swordtail pattern. From Goliad Farms: https://goliadfarms.com/blue-iridescent-swordtail/
  16. The source I have states a range of 6-15 for GH. I know @Cinnebuns has their shrimp in really high GH and did run into some issues when getting over 15. If you can lower it slightly over time via the tap, that's great. I would encourage the setup to have more than 8 as opposed to less than 6 if I had to pick one of the two.
  17. You can sanitize the media with bleach dips. 15-20 minutes, then move it to clean water, then go ahead and add something like seachem safe. If you have a particularly aggressive disease show up, then it might be better to go that route instead of simply moving it to the main tank without any sort of cleaning process. Some people use vinegar, some try hydrogen peroxide, but I can't speak to anything working completely apart from bleach. Air drying it should also help to eliminate some risks and issues.
  18. Calcium food is a great resource. That's where the egg shells come into play I think. I use equilibrium to add GH to my tank. It takes a pretty good amount to raise it up on bigger tanks. GH via liquid test, I wouldn't recommend testing with any strips, is going to be in the 6 minimum up to about 12 range. I shoot for 7-8deg.
  19. I'm very jealous! They are adorable. I cannot wait until my swords give me some fry soon. Hopefully soon.
  20. I personally haven't had a lot of experience with livebearers. I had to recently deal with it in my own tanks as I have some newly acquired swordtails. I had 3 males in the big tank and they were very fiesty at first. I tried to calm things down and then got them to be very good buddies for a few months. One day out of nowhere one of them has no sword and they other two bullying the dom male. I would assume having 7-9 of them is a good place to be if you go male only. I believe that you want to have an odd number of them. If you do have a place to sell the fish then I think your best setup will be to have 2-3 males and 4-6 females. It gives you some genetic variation and you will likely be able to choose a few more that you wish for out of the fry. 100% and the males should be the ones with the flashy colors 🙂
  21. No wonder he wanted his cave there!
  22. Depending how the tank is positioned, if the light is 30" wide and there isn't anything obstructing the back of the tank it can hang below the tank.
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