mountaintoppufferkeeper

I drain through a sieve, and rinse them out of the sieve into a container with tank water using a bulb eye dropper. Less salt water in the puffer fry tanks but also probably not necessary. I also have the idea in my head that that the first drain of BBS probably also gets a good portion of ammonia out of the hatch.

Thanks @Odd Duck. the yellow vs white is a bit of a difference in my mekong groups along with patterning on the belly. I defer to the spotted congo experts on this one I have onlybhad one years ago. Posts and videos by @Preston John are my go to reference for spotted congo puffers he is a great resource for that species. I believe this thread below will help you

Interesting. More a java moss than a pea gravel guy for this application. Should be a fun project to document

Thats a pretty sweet 1/24th scale slot track too.

@Fish Folk Im sold on darters and the spraybar. Slight followup consult: Say a pufferkeeper you know decided to upgrade to a 47"x12" foldable dog pool pond for this project. If it holds up its a 70 to 90 gallon seasonal pond that folds back up for winter storage. water temperatures 53⁰ to 62⁰ on this set up and will remain the pattern in the june chart through early September or so. A little duckweed, driftwood for structure, bare ish bottom currently, plus aspen leaves and some pretty decent pollen and bug donations to the system. I am considering water lettuce etc for better cover, and a portion of daphnia to seed it a bit food and filtration wise. May even just do potted plants of some sort submerged in a plant holder and try the @Dean’s Fishroom salt method to curve pvc for the spraybar along half of top inner edge of the pond. If i do that id cap the end anf just drill holes after it firms back up to have a directional flow across the pond. Do you expect Etheostoma zonale would do better than E.caeruleum or other darters in that set up?

Gotcha. Hopefully the range of respinses for options in one or the other or both helped a little. Did you decide on your 20 upgrade?

My current test for a pond is a "foldable dog pool" . 47" diameter 10" ish of water depth (+/- 80 gallons). Drain plug can be unscrewed to drain down the slope when closed down for winter. It folds up to basically 4" thick or so and one panel wide and tall. (Wet dirt was from an argument with the hose early in the filling process it jumped out) they run $20-$40 depending on diameter. I have no idea if it will work but i do plan on getting either a combo of fry and learning experiences or no fry and way more learning experiences than I wanted from it through september.

I havent kept green spotted puffers but have experience with groups of hairy puffers, miurus congo puffers, and Mekong river puffers both F1 fry groups and an adult colony. I imagine I could come up with some advice. What is the bullying behavior you are seeing? Does it happen just with one food ? One solution i have done for a temporary fix is using the egg crate style lighting diffuser to split the tank in half so they can still see and smell each other but not be able to touch. The second one ive done is to feed on both ends of a tank and essentially train each puffer to eat at a station

@nabokovfan87 i have not seen that in my tanks before. Could be specific to pea puffers id be interested to hear if pea puffer keepers like @eatyourpeas @Jennifer V have experienced this issue with theirs. @HalJHave you tried feeding live food daphnia baby brine etc just in case its bound up?

I have never fed the shrimplets special foods but normally they will feed off the bacteria. I feed adults pretty much everything and supplement that with bacter ae or similar fine powder they can pick at as they grow.

If I am not enjoying the process I don't do it and sometimes find something else to replace it. In the fish room I generally keep some sort of new project going every 6-12 months or so because that is how I keep up my enjoyment. This weekend is setting up a 47" diameter x 12" high folding dog pool as a daphnia pond experiment. I am looking forward to seeing how that turns out along with the new group of 2" hairy puffers just added to that not yet successful breeding project up here. use lots of live plants, and bigger water volumes by doing over flow sump systems in a rack on most tanks I have. This limits my need for heavy water changes or longer maintenance days, I use auto feeders to make sure everyone gets a set schedule of a set portion of mixed dry staple foods, and use timers for my lights. The fishroom tasks that are not automated are mostly optional. I don't really need to rinse filter media or change water for 14 days or so but I often do so every week ish. I also run a temperature regulated faucet. When i do change water its a matter of a fraction of a second to get the water temperature where i want it for refilling. The lack of a need to do things that are labor intensive too often really takes the stress out of the equation for me and keeps it all much more enjoyable, With the exception of feeding fry when I decide to raise them, I mostly only watch the tanks daily and note behaviors of everyone to myself then do optional feedings of worms, shrimp, crayfish or frozen foods when I am down there and the room runs itself otherwise. I have left on a vacation for 17 days with no issues to any of t he tanks. I just did my 25% water changes skimmed some of the floating plants off the surface, rinsed the sponges out, and refilled the autofeeders. Fry feeding, if it were an all the time thing ,would be a job for me, an enjoyable job, but a job nonetheless. The most stressful portion of the fishroom is if i ever ship anything out in trade etc. It always takes a long time to get completed and is much harder than I think it will be when I am working at it.

Basically. This is the one that monitors my pond for me i ran acfoss it when it was something like $12. I got it a couple of years ago. Really anything bluetooth with an external temperature probe would work. There are many out there with more features these days Close the temp probe is the key part for the water temps. I do use that one linked for the fishroom. I use it to keep track of humidity mostly. But it does air temp, relative humidity, dew point, and vapor pressure deficit. That last one i guess is the difference between the water vapor pressure at saturation and the actual water vapor pressure for a given temperature. Theoretically a more accurate RH measurement

Its a "bluetooth temperature probe" for a smoker grill etc. They are those metal spike deals you stick in whatever you are cooking in a smoker etc so you csn see its tempersture without letting the heat/smoke out. Its probably unnessary but I put it in a ziplock / fish bag to keep the water off it. I figure it lasts longer if i do that. They are all basically $10-$12 and use one AAA battery to power the bluetooth part of it. Some new ones have audible alarms for preset temperatures so you could have it alarm by your tank/ pond if it exceeded a preset temperature you set in the app. Like if a heater failed in the on position.

I do a coop medium sponge filter currently and have the airstone with the felt disks in there with light flow and big bubbles. I havent noticed a daphnia die off from that bubble size up here. This is a container dipped in randomly from the top and through the duckweed. There are probably 50 in the container Here is a still Here is my temperature history for the past 24 hours from my bluetooth tempersture probe. They have a 20-25⁰ temperature swing every day with their max around 6pm and the minimum around 6am

Muck bucket "pond" catapa leaves, duckweed. Natural light Inside for winter 10 gallon polycarbonate tank newest version will be a 47.5"x10" unused foldable dog pool pond. Not yet set up.

here's hoping. Genetics is not something I've payed with yet - the variables in the puffers should be a fun thread if it all works out

@WhitecloudDynastythanks kindly. I am definitely not in a hurry on this one. I figured around 10-15 years of enjoyment working this idea through. My hairy puffer colony has yet to produce fry 4 years in but is closer every day and more so with 4 smaller ones growing out to join them in 2023. My palustris adults are all wild caught. The male spawns ever 14 days or so and has at least 2 females in there who spawn with him once every 30 days or so. That could make it even more interesting to work it through to strengthen the line with the potential variances in genetics for all the adults. Volume wise they are pushing somewhere north of 300 eggs per month and I have been selecting any keep back individuals once they hit day 30 of growth and show some pattern and color. If I do keep any from a batch for grow out for 12-18 months before really considering line or cross breeding any morph I happen upon. My current hypothesis on the puffers is that there could be morphs connected to over or under pigment as well as morphs that impact the ability to change colors. I am keeping an eye out for them to throw lower pigment leucistics, a higher red pigment erthristics ( That I assume are possible based off those high orange T.miurus puffers that are probably erthristic morphs), or some sort of change to the ability to change color and pattern. (pics on edit) Group standard colors females yellowish belly male white belly with leopard type pattern Male and female breeding pattern My initial plan was just to reserve a smaller percentage of F1s for grow out and keep an eye out for any odd ones thrown and keep my main colony going for however long they go. I guess, based on the growth rates of my F1 fry to this point, is the Pao cf palustris adults were probably about 2 years old on arrival up here.

@Cinnebuns i defer to @Fish Folk o. That but i do have my info. For my supplies I went to aquabid ( pretty sure thats allowed to mention ) and looked at shipping supplies. I ordered from the one seller that accounts for probably 95% of current listings in thst category. I use 72 hour uniheat when below 50 or so. I open it put it in a paper bag and let it sit while it activates and warms a bit. If jts not warm by the time im packing the box its no good. I normally use 3 mil poly bags of various sizes, a box liner bag for usps medium flate rate boxes, do have a bunch of longlife breather bags but ive only tried those once with great success on a 1/4" puffer fry. I fast for 48 hours, I double bag the non breather fishbags 3mil thick each with java moss and a cube of polyfilter. I do packing tape to square the corners ( learned that one from @Dean’s Fishroom) and prevent anyone getting stuck in a corner. I dont have oxgen so i use my airpump and a rigid tube to inflate the first bag then place it in the 2nd bag and inflate the second bag with air as well. My theory is it keeps a little air gap between the bags and also acts as a pressure change buffer when leaving here 9,100 feet up for lower elevations. My bigger shipping cost was buying shipping boxes and shipping coolers. The foam coolers and the matching 275 double walled carboard box which is 10x10x12" are the biggest you can go to still get ups flat rate shipping. I am overly cautious on the temps. I use that foam cooler shipment containder because its 3/4 thick foam with no gap when shut and it provides a little structural integrity to the box whichbalso insulates with its double wall. Ive sent something like (80) F1 regani pike in 2 bags in that box set up with no drop in temperature and no doa. I have also sent out (30) 1/4" F1 palustris puffers with no doa. If given the option for smaller amounts in a shipment would use long live bresther bags wrapped in viva cloth papertowels and with paper between the layers of thd bags as needed.

Thanks @Fish Folk and @Beardedbillygoat1975. I do have a few puffer species 😁. Sorry for the delay it was 4 hairy puffer arrival day and i had to shuffle some tanks around to get everyone where i wanted them. It got a bit more involved thsn i planned but everyone is pretty happy. @SC Fish If you are doing just a puffer/puffers in a tank i have yet to find a species that wont work as a trio or colony. I have petsonally never had a successful puffer pair. Pairs generally result in one really tough puffer after the dust settled. I would be looking at puffers you enjoy and who are less than 6" as adults could potentially work in a 20 gallon tank. In a 20 gallon, preferably a 20 long, Id look at 6 pea puffers and plants. Aquarium coop live fish category has a link for a store who both carries pea puffers nornally and does a coop discount. Solo puffer ideas in a 20 gallon: I would look at a spotted congo (Tetraodon schoutedeni), or maybe a red eye species (Carinotetraodon salivator is the one im hunting for this fall) The ambush puffers are less fun solo and a 20. Tetraodon schoutedeni After you get your 60 set up and cycled I would consider a colony of puffers but full disclaimer im a pretty huge fan for puffer groups. Pao baileyi, Pao cf palustris, Tetraodon miurus, Tetraodon schoutedeni Ive had a trio of hairy puffers for 4 years now they have been in a 50 gallon with plants and caves since 2019 or so. Here they are feedimg on krill with vitachem. They pretty much just do their thing and havent het injured eachother. I even moved the bottom one to another tank for a period when it seemed like a pair formed. Still no eggs. My maintainence up here for them is every 3 days 75 earthworms fed, as available cull fish, snails, crayfish, cherry shrimp. I figured id add a few more wild caught hairys into my fishroom to try and get some F1 fry in the next year or two. Today I recieved 4 more wild caught 3 month olds or so here are two deciding who of the two runs the yard. Its been a while since I had baby hairys but Im fairly certain this group with sort itself into a happy colony quickly. Ive had a trio of pao cf palustris (adult size 4"-5") who spawn basically non stop in a 75 gallon they are a more "spicey" puffer who enjoy good argument followed by food and apologies that normally result in 150 fry. (It started as 6) male with leopard pattern white belly females with yellowish belly. They swim a lot and eat like its their last meal from birth. I would try either a single or a trio in a 60. Being spicey same male dark green light spots. They get moving whem they want. Following the chase female light green male dark green The tetraodon miurus congo puffer I have 5 2.5" growing out. They all can change from light tan to dark brown black and have freckles. One of mine has an orange base that replace light tan that one goes dark brown as well. Adults are reported to max our at 6" and a single could probably be dome in a 20 gallon. They like to wallow where only their eyes are visable and then they ambush a fish from below grabbing its belly. They are facing the current here. I use blasting media and they seem to not mind it. I feed from cultures of whiteworms, and earthworms a majority of the time and occasionally feed from my cultures of dwarf crayfish, and cherry shrimp. They also eat krill with vitachem a few times a month, and snails when i find them in my other tanks. They remove from the shell vs crush through the shell. Of course whiteworms are great fun and everyone tales their turn and just eats those. In this gif there are blackworms in the substrate. I disperse them through the fishroom when i order them in. An excellent live food. And while it may be tempting when you see on in the store at 1.5" long,w I would not try a nile / fahaka in anything below a 90. They get real big real fast and mine was very flighty.

Yeah that first batch of palustris is 2.5-3" its going to be interesting to see when they trio up

Cool flickers there. Interesting 4th gen results Id bet id be at 9-12 months per generation for these guys.

I recall one express package of fish being delayed a week. I did get that refunded fully since it was determined to be a result of a USPS issue where it made it to tbe regional hub and stopped for 5 days. It exceeded the 3 day live animal carve out. "9.5 Priority Mail Express Postage and Fees Refunds // 9.5.5 Refunds Not Given // g. The shipment contained live animals and was delivered or delivery was attempted within 3 days of the date of mailing. " I got that refumd using form 3533 through my post office the day the box finally showed on the other end. 9.2.6 Refund Payment. Form 3533: Immediate Refund: If USPS can determine immediately that the mailer is entitled to a refund and the item has postage affixed, then USPS refunds the postage immediately in cash or with a no-fee money order for refund amounts up to $1,000 It was a fairly quick process when needed for my situation. I have not had any claim on UPS but it has the appearance of a longer more involved process. I generally ship UPS overnight in 10x10x12 boxes for their 1 day flat rate shipping and it has worked for me. If its bigger I do priority express with great results minus that one box refunded.

Ive had hit and miss experiences with all the shipper options but the two currently available to me are USPS ( regulations for live fish in publication 52) and UPS( Shipping Special-Care or Regulated Items). The short version: "the book answer" is they require you ship live animals in a new double walled 275lb test cardboard box or equivalent marked with 1" block lettering that says "LIVE ANIMALS" or with "LIVE TROPICAL FISH" etc, sent overnight shipping, in 4mil or greater thickness bag containing fish with 1/3rd clean water 2/3rds oxygen, bagged and placed inside an outer bag to hold leaks aling with have enough absorbant material to soak up the water if it leaks. I have sent F1 generation dwarf regani pike, numerous livebearers, and F1 generation puffer fry successfully. The shipping rules for fish in USPS and UPS are not necessarily applied consistently and often you are teaching the workers the regulations with those first few shipments. There is also some ability for the accepting location to refuse a package at their discretion. We believe I was the first documented to ship a live animal from my post office since it was established in 1886; thats how common it is in some locations. My postmaster and I read up on the regulations prior to shipping my first box out. Full disclaimer nearly no one knows these regulations when you first ship but they or someone down the line could refuse your shipment, stop your shipment, and or potentially destroy your shipment if it were discovered to violate or appear to violate any applicable regulation(s) or policies that cover your live animals. I use 1/2 " or 3/4" foam liners for shipping and have also used purpose built formed foam coolers that fit into the box size I used. These were only used if it was an especially rare fish, or the weather was expected to be cold kr hot along their journey. The foam cooler might maintain temperature longer than panels and provides a little more structure to the box just in case. ---Post Office--- USPS - technically requires you have a new container with fish in a bag and a 2nd bag to contain leaks. I use a box liner which is a big bag. The box must, at a minimum, be made of 275-pound test, double-wall, corrugated, weather-resistant fiberboard (W5c) or equivalent. USPS Publication 52 is the document which covers animal shipments section 522 explains box requirements and section 526.6 includes live fish rules. ---UPS--- UPS regulations cover live fish under Shipping Special-Care or Regulated Items All live animals offered for transportation must be in a new box. Corrugated boxes must be constructed of a minimum of 275 # bursting strength corrugated or 44 edge crush test. It is recommended that any package containing animals requiring moisture during transportation be constructed of water-resistant material such as wax coated, wax impregnated, or plastic corrugated. Minimal ventilation holes should be provided as necessary

Since we are well on the way to having plenty of puffers up here I have decided to explore genetics by starting to focus on discovering and developing desireable morphs should any naturally occur in F1 batches of my pao cf palustris fry. Has anyone gone down the rabbit hole in developing a parallel morph strain of a species for some desireable trait? What did you learn? What were the end results? I did make a cool platy strain way way back as a 12 year old. This idea seems to be a fun one to work on even if it only teaches me more about the puffers and never ends up with a result it will still keep the project interesting for me.

I have also read repashy smeared onto a rock or cuttlefish bone type base can help since they would need to wear their teeth down on it to get the food off.