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mountaintoppufferkeeper

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Everything posted by mountaintoppufferkeeper

  1. This corydoras sterbai decided to pose until I took a photograph. Even did the fin extension for it. Quite a bit going on in this 50 gallon the Crenicichla Orinoco Dwarf almost certainly have spawned. Female missing male patrolling the tank and defending her likely chosen cave. The coop triangular pleco cave.
  2. Day 2 Starting to swim a bit added some vinegar eels for those who are further along from the egg sac
  3. I had 6 pandas turn to 150 ish in 6 months. Once they start they keep going it is just a matter of getting the eggs eaten before they all get to fry. But that is easier said than done in my experience. I do not think they slow to the environment I believe they start and never stop based on my group. I would limit the cover for eggs/fry and do less frequent feedings to make eggs more worth eating by the adults and the other fish. I would try and maximize this by not feeding prior to or after the water change that likely fires them all up. My issue was tons of Java moss and anubias in a 55. Explains why corys are in schools of thousands or more in the wild though.
  4. Second the Pristilla black and gold hold up to high flow whatever temperature you have and eat everything including blackworms off the sand
  5. Pulled a few more from the cave palustris male still guarding to the point that he attacked the airline used to remove eggs today. The level of aggression made me think hatching was within 24 hours. 2 hours later approximately 20 of 30 pulled have hatched out. 3 palustris as they hatched out today 24 October 2021. That shooting up is a result of breaking through. Very cool to witness that happen. A first for me. Just after hatching those green bits are duckweed on the outside of the coop specimen and puffer hatching container The first swim A better view of a first swim male top left remaining spawn center on slate. Male guarding the remainder
  6. Cool. I agree with the rest of the thread. If it were me I would do the drift wood with repashy morning wood or a more vegetable based repashy (solient green or super green) poured over it for those species. If they were carnivorous pleco types I "wood" have suggested a more meaty version of repashy or mixing in other foods to the repashy to accomplish the same idea. I use a mortar and pestle to turn whatever foods I have in the fishroom into a powder for fry. Using this method I have added extreme krill flake, extreme pellets, soldier fly larvae, etc into the repashy mix.
  7. I have used down to an 18x12x9 for a pair. Bigger is better and I would do some sight breaks with plants coconut huts etc. I kept my group of 6 in a 25 ish until the pair formed and spawned on the back side of a coconut hut. The harder part was getting a pair; it would be tough to get a bonded pair from 2 fish. The linked thread has how the male and female have different shaped tubes when conditioned. In my group the females is square while the male is more pointed back : https://forum.aquariumcoop.com/topic/13370-best-ways-to-breed-bolivian-rams/
  8. I generally just have a net per tank and let them air dry and do not worry about it. I have used rinse in the hottest water I have and let air dry. I have experimented with the med trio in a higher concentration as a solution in a specimen container since they are around and eventually expire. QT for nets sorta. Let them soak for a while air dry rinse hotest water and air dry.
  9. Im a total hairy puffer guy.....all in. So much so that I have bred my mekong puffer (pao palustris) to learn how to best raise the hopefully future hairy puffer fry. Hairy puffers have rivaled the other species of puffer as the one of if not the most personable for me. My Hairy Puffer colony of 3 adults, which could go violent at some point, has been happily together since 2018. They have been exhibiting spawning behaviors since early this year but have not yet produced eggs or fry. I feed them frozen krill with vitachem, mystery snails, and normally house them with a barb colony to clean up. They generally reduce the population of the Barbs for a few weeks but the population then stabilizes. Snails for my crew are size dependant they do not break the shell they go for the snail meat and pull it out. 77-78 7.0ph 300tds easy green and live plants . Good flow and filtration lots of plants has worked for me. I use a powerhead, a bigger hang on back with just floss and sponge. Water change is 20% every week or two depending on feeding. I mostly just need to remove duckweed. They only eat every 4 days or so. Spawning behavior from 2 of them. 4-5" clay pipe Bigger likely male maybe 3/4 size of likely female who is a broader head shape and was the biggest of the 3 when purchased This is the tour I did of my fishroom with a good portion of the hairy puffer set up I use. Caves sand live plants and whatever flow you have handy. I would probably consider more rocks and taking the coop powerhead and medium sponge filter set up or using 3/4" PVC to put the powerhead on one end and the sponge over the other end to make a constant river flow across the long end of my tank.
  10. They do. My first photos of the mekong fry are at 3 days old. I was observing the tank and waiting for the first batch to hatch out and see what the male did with fry if anything; I noticed what I can best describe as a speck of puffer fry swimming around then another then 10 specks of puffer 3 days after the eggs vanished from the cave. The Pao can take live baby brine at 3 days if that helps size wise. I have obtained and now have reliable cultures of whiteworms, daphnia, blackworms, and peanut beetle larvae to go with live brine, "pest" snails, and mystery snails for foods.
  11. Congratulations. It is interesting to see the different puffer breeding behaviors between the cave spawners and the scatterers
  12. I also enjoy that latest kasa update for the timers running off local sunrise and sunset as well. I shoot for that offset anyway where natural sunlight is around when powered lights turn on or off. I figure I'd prefer it vs going total darkness to full light and the sunrise sunset keeps the seasonal variances for them. (Weekend times for the teenager wifi destruct button. Programmed the router so the "guest" network replaced the full internet. The saved password works the same but now that is fully controlled. Highly recommended parental control.)
  13. When I see scuds I take it as an indicator of system heath and maturity. More of a bonus food and clean up crew than an issue for me. Anything with a mouth of sufficient size eats them in my systems.
  14. Apologies for the out of focus Pao palustris spawn #4 eggs. Seems promising to this point. Male is out of frame within his clay cave in spawning and spawn defense reversed colors dark green with light green spots.
  15. The first thing I thought of was I am always looking for fry in my puffer colonys, and from my L169 plecos..... I look everyday. Real answer Besides new puffer species to try observing and possibly run breeding projects with I am always looking for newly available loach species particularly the hillstream species of loaches both flat reticulated, spotted, etc, and elongated species panda,sumo,etc. The tri band sumo loach and the panda loach are both two of my favorite colonies I have now
  16. Very fascinating indeed. I am looking forward to learning more from my colony as it grows.
  17. Agreed even as adults with the less than ideal lighting they enjoy the repashy a bit and of course algae Nice choices that would be a fun tank with the hillstreams and colorful schooling fish.
  18. True and even that is not absolute in the way we expect. Fish need water most of the time. If we count some species you can get annual killifish from a bag of dirt sent through the mail and have to wait months before adding adding water back, lungfish don't have water for long periods and return when the rains do, the many fish, snake heads, climbing perch, walking catfish, etc who can cross from one body of water over land to another body of water and be fine for nearly a week out of water.
  19. What is everyone's favorite loach they have kept, currently keep, or want to keep? How do /will you keep it? My first choice (recency bias) : Tri band sumo loach. I keep a colony of them in a 35 gallon with a coop powerhead sponge filter combo, a sicce with the directional attachment (hillstream level flow). Also used diy slate tile tunnels, coconut huts, and a few plants in easy planters to create lots of sight breaks territories, and cover. Dither fish will be prestilla tetras after they quarantine to encourage more viewing and less warp speed food runs out from cover and back in . My now #2 loach is the dwarf chain loach. My dwarf chain loaches are about perfect for any tank I have (without puffers). They play all the time, eat everything, and have never met a snail they didn't enjoy.
  20. My theory is that daphnia might keep the worms more stable over the winter and hopefully allow me to feed both over the next 6 months of my kind of cold. up here 9100 feet closer than sea level to the sun the packages are normally frozen on arrival due to overnight lows. In better temperatures I would rather go with the regular orders of worms but I figured I'd do the way more work route to try and feed them during the NHL season. My Scleromystax baianinho II C112 go crazy for the blackworms. Other fish are just not as all in as the catfish. I've see a few times when they were up to their eyes in the sand grabbing blackworms from the depths. Happy catfish every time.
  21. Those Eastern Aquatics blackworms are a game changer for me. My Scleromystax Baianinho II C112 in particular will start going crazy when they see me coming with the rinsed blackworms. Even my panda loaches go nuts for them. Excellent food.
  22. It does not seem to be caused directly by the male. The speed of death when it occurs and lack of visible damage to the female almost completely rules him out in my opinion. I would expect to see aggression or at least a little damage if it were the male causing it. No split fins no scratches, nothing visible make me think the female death is possibly a result of spawning at my altitude, in my water, as a colony, etc;or how and what I feed;or the age of the WC adult puffers involved, or somehow that possibly that being a survival strategy of the species. That seems odd but I bought my group online unsexed and it broke down to 1 male and 5 female. They crank out eggs and fry it is every 60 days or so for my group. This is not something I've experienced with any other species before. It has peaked my curiosity enough that I wanted to share and see of anyone may have some insight based off of their experiences with other species.
  23. Currently well into a blackworm colony culture with daphnia which I hope to run from September to May. That covers our winter time frame up here where overnight lows are regularly to single digits and a few times over the years have hit -20 F. Not conducive to successful shipping of living anything. The blackworm culture now in its 2nd month is in an 18x12x9 tank with non-crushed coral chunks for a base and a medium sponge filter. I siphon the bottom every time I feed them off and change 1/2 the water from the tanks above every other day. Food is a repashy block, spirulina tablets, or spirulina powder. I have yet to find the best balance of worms vs filtration and water volume. It has been a challenging and somewhat successful project so far despite that ongoing search for balance. The coral seems to break the worms up decently and effectively replaces the worms I feed off. A few weeks ago I decided to add daphnia from the outdoor pond to this culture before the daphnia freezes solid for the winter. possibly top keep the blackworm culture cleaner by filtering the water a bit more. I started feeding the tank my daphnia food: coop purchased extreme spirulina flake which I mortar and pestle down to powder. The green water is primarily from the spirulina powder. At the moment i would guess 2 lbs of blackworms from 1/2 lb I started it with and around 1000 "Russian red" daphnia from.the initial net full. I Probably will swap sponpge to a box filter to clean the water a bit more but both populations seem happy enough to be reproducing and feeding the fishroom The outdoor daphnia pond has already formed 1/4 inch of ice overnight but is still producing enough to feed the room. I did not expect it to be producing at 40-42 degree water temperature but probably no more than 5 days from it being fully frozen until late spring. Tough food to beat once established. Has anyone done multiple live foods in the same container, tank, etc? What were they and would you recommend running them together?
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