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Patrick_G

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Everything posted by Patrick_G

  1. Patrick_G
    I’m of the same opinion. They are beautiful little fish under the right light and magnification, but I’ve at the store never been impressed enough to buy them. The price sure doesn’t help.
  2. Patrick_G
    It’s not looking too bad, you’re totally on the right track. The Pogo is sprouting some nice new growth. You could try cutting off that part and replanting it. I’d give the Pearl weed some time it also looks like some new, healthy growth is starting. The Anubias look prime so nice job with those! I do see the beginning of some staghorn algae. You might want to cut back the light to 6 hours to help with that. I’d also recommend more plants. Get a bunch of fast growing stem plants and a Java fern or two. It’s amazing how much easier it can be to control algae with a dense plant mass.
  3. Patrick_G
    It’s a really easy process. Here’s the basic TLDR version: What you need: tank, aquasoil, MC tissue cultures, plastic wrap, aquarium light. -set up tank with damp aquasoil -break up the MC into small pieces so it can be spead evenly over the aquasoil. - mist the MC and then cover the tank with plastic wrap. -run your light on full blast for 12-18 hours a day -mist every other day or as needed until the MC roots and starts growing Here’s a few pics of the first tank I set up this way
  4. Patrick_G
    Great looking fish! I’m with @Chick-In-Of-TheSea, but I was going to suggest using Seachem Purigen. It’ll suck all the nitrogen compounds out of the water. I’m guessing Nitrazorb is more or less the same type of product. In the long run I’d invest in a cheap RO system.
  5. Patrick_G
    That does make more sense, thanks @Ninjoma
  6. Patrick_G
    With 350 g (2/3 of a bottle) of Easy green in 100 gallons you should be seeing a lot of Nitrate, even in a heavily planted jungle tank. The API test is notorious for giving false negatives if the instructions for shaking the bottle aren’t followed precisely. To compound the problem, if you do a few test without enough shaking then subsequent test might also show false results.
  7. Patrick_G
    😃 oh wow, the plants better grow well with all that cool gear behind them. This is more or less my dream 60p nature aquarium setup.
  8. Patrick_G
    I’m a fan of dry starting a carpet, but I know not everyone wants to wait the extra 2-3 weeks for it to take root. It’s really easy and you could probably do your entire tank with 2-3 cups of Cuba. Here’s a little nano cube I dry started with cut up Monte Carlo.
  9. Patrick_G
    Oh boy, that’s a primo setup. I’m digging the little Kessils!
  10. Patrick_G
    Oh then that makes tons of sense! I keep a few pre-seeded filters bubbling away for the same purpose. This’ll be heaven for those Rice fish. 😀
  11. Patrick_G
    Four days isn’t generally long enough to cycle a pond. You can test it by adding some ammonia, if it’s fully cycled your test will show the ammonia dropping to zero and nitrates rising. If your ammonia isn’t zero or you’re seeing nitrites then you still have some time to go. Since you’re just adding a few small fish to a relatively large amount of water you’ll probably be fine doing a fish in cycle because by the time the toxins build up to harmful levels the pond will be cycled.
  12. Patrick_G
    Nice work, the wood is the star of the show in this layout, the rocks get lost, but they’re necessary as anchors for the wood. How big is the tank? I’m a big fan of all in ones, the one looks really nice.
  13. Patrick_G
    Looks great! Thanks for posting
  14. Patrick_G
    Can you post your water parameters and how many hours per day you’re running your light? I think you’ll see some improvements using the Hygger light, my guess is that the grow light is a bit to bright. Try the Hygger for about 6 hours a day. Give the Wisteria some time, it takes a while to convert to submerged growth. The emersed form leaves might die off but you’ll start seeing the thinner, submerged form leaves growing from the top of the plant. I’m seeing what looks like some black beard algae and some staghorn algae. The reverse respiration technique will help clear up most of that. There’s a thread on the forum with instructions on how to do the treatment.
  15. Patrick_G
    Are you considering an ATO since you’re using the net top? Or maybe that’s not really necessary since you do frequent EI water changes.
  16. Patrick_G
    Looks like black beard algae to me. It can be tenacious, at one point it covered the edges of just about every Anubis in several of my tanks, but I’ve managed to get rid of it 100%. If I encounter it today I use the reverse respiration technique to clear it off the plants and then follow up by reducing light. Alternatively you could use an a product like Aquarium Co-op Easy Carbon. It contains an algicide that’s effective on black beard algae. It’s not my favorite chemical for long term use. I’ve used an initial to clear existing algae while I figure out what caused it in the first place.
  17. Patrick_G
    I think you made the right choice with this tank. It’s even “affordable” when compared to some other AIO tanks on the saltwater side. Since it’s so long are you finding it reasonably easy to access the middle filter chambers?
  18. Patrick_G
    I just got caught up with your. Journal after several months. There are so many cool updates that I ran out of likes. This tank is really spectacular! I’m a big fan of these integrated rear sump type setups. It’s cool that you’re trying a Dutch style in a tank this big, I can’t wait to see how it develops.
  19. Patrick_G
    My experience is pretty much exactly the same as @Odd Duck. Those long leaves get a bit ragged and I’ll reach down and pinch then off. My current plant is in a somewhat dormant period and staying small. It still looks nice and it’s less maintenance. I would be nice if it just stayed this way. 🙂
  20. Patrick_G
    I think you’re on the right track. Floating then in a bin with some light should work great. I toss float my extra plants in an extra tank and they mostly seem to do well. I add a bit of Easy Green to keep them happy.
  21. Patrick_G
    I've found some discrepancies between my Co-op test strips and the API liquid test. The problems with the liquids is the need to accurately follow the instructions. Drops must be a uniform and accurate size, the correct number of drops must be administered, bottles must be agitated for the required length of time, vials must be clean etc. For day to day use I stick with the strips even though they might not read exactly the same as the API tests.
  22. Patrick_G
    Yeah, It was selling these little guys, so it's great that I was able to pass them on to local club members. We did keep one and he's currently doing well in his parents tank.
  23. Patrick_G
    Welcome, nice looking tank, that’s a healthy snail population 🙂
  24. Patrick_G
    That is quite a big change! I can see why you’re worried, but I’d follow @Guppysnail’s advice and do a .2 degrees PH change per day. I think this calculator should help with how much water to add each time. https://nextaquarium.com/water-change-calculator/
  25. Patrick_G
    It has a tendency to warp. I was also thinking about how many mesh/net tops I’ve seen lately. Some of them look great, and light transmission would be good. That might be an option. I think bulk reef supply sells a kit for different sized aquariums.
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