Tony s

Welcome! Ask lots of questions. We like to help

Very cool. But last week out in the wild was a video of your long fin gray pleco

Most fin rot and bacterial infections are generally gram negative. Maracyn2 does a very good job with that. Petsmart won’t have anything like that. A local fish store will. for bacteria to help, I’d use fritzyme7. Although api safestart could work. Petsmart has that. That would keep your ammonia and nitrite levels at zero. And you’d only need to do water changes when your nitrates rise. to help get rid of those, floating plants are easiest. Really, trying to help make it simple and easy. If it gets complicated or difficult, people quit. No one here wants that to happen.

Did you get your ammonia strips today? Would be very interested in that number. With the pink nitrites from yesterday, not sure if the tank is cycled. Really, having a cycled tank is about the only way to safely keep fish. Other than that, the maracyn2 treatment is the best way to help clear that knot. If you can get it cycled, everything becomes easier

That’s my favorite kind of retail therapy 😀. I often leave room in my tanks just so my daughter and I can go shopping. It can also be a dangerous thing 🤣. There is always new things to try. Eventually tanks fill up so you always need more 😅

Actually, that’s a very good possibility. You can check on the tabs and see how fast they disappear. Mystery snails will eat basically anything organic that’s on the softer side. They usually won’t eat live plants and not wood at all. But green surface algae is a favorite. As well as leftover food. Plecos are good algae eaters, corys are great bottom feeders. So they have direct competition for their food. If your tabs are basically gone in 15 minutes, it’s very likely they didn’t get much. You can try adding extra for them. They are also good at cleaning dead animals from the tank. So, if someone goes missing, it made a great snack. As for adding calcium, they will absorb calcium directly from the water. So if you have the liquid rock hard water, not going to be a problem. But, if not enough water changes are being done, the water can turn acidic and eat at their shell.

Small dog syndrome 😂

Root tab floats are annoying. Just shove deeper at an angle. Then withdraw tweezers at same angle. Should work fine

But if the nitrites are pink. That’s still poisonous. Water changes and some aquarium salt and prime is your only option at this point. Ammonia is even more poisonous. If it’s pink, your aquarium may not be fully cycled yet. Which would cause your water problems

Thank you. Does the bit for the no2 look on the pink side? If that’s the case, your nitrites are on the high side. Which is anything above 0. A reading on ammonia would be good. a water change is definitely in order if nitrites are pink.

Fritz is maker of maracyn2. Might be other makers using the actual antibiotic in maracyn2, but not sure.

Knowing your current water parameters at your tap source would be very important to know. Without chasing numbers, this would be your best option in determining what fish will be best for you. Trying to make things as easy as possible.

Otos shouldn’t be after your Cory. For the most part, they shouldn’t show any reaction to other fish at all. They’re one of the most peaceful fish in the hobby. They’re vegetarian. So interest in fish is mostly fear based, almost never aggression. Usually they just mind their own business.

Not really normal behavior for Cory’s, but if he’s new, he may just be exploring. I’d definitely start a round of maracyn2 for the betta. Not going to be stocked at pets art. You’ll either have to order from Amazon or from local fish store. If you have green algae growing on stuff, the otos will use that for food, for now. They’re really good at cleaning though. So will need veggies or veggie wafers soon. They won’t necessarily eat those pellets. But you can try. Still need your test strip numbers to see the water quality.

A 20g is the minimum size I’d do for a bristlenose. A 20 long would better than a standard. More area for them to roam in. Much better than the tall. You’d want to add a source of driftwood. They like to munch on that. Otherwise, you should be good.

Welcome to the forum. Lots of helpful people here. Not a lot of flaming here. First question I have is how old are the tanks. the next thing. Both corys and otos prefer to be in groups. And 10 gallons is way too small for a group of peppered corys. For now, I’d increase the number of corys to three or four. it’s not enough but your tank has limits. Otos would also like a group. But should be okay there. Both will eat algae wafers. Maybe. Most otos are wild caught and may not adapt. The best food for them is going to be soft algae on the glass. Or even the slime coat that covers everything. Called biofilm. If your tank is too new, you won’t have either. They can also eat blanched zucchini or cucumber rounds. Microwave them in water until they soften a bit. Stick them with a fork and drop them into the tank. Otos are vegetarian. So the type of algae wafers could matter. Check for mostly plant material on the label. as for breeding. Not going to be an issue. Cory eggs left on the glass will be eaten by the corys.

First thing. Could you tell us what the test strips say so we can tell if your water is safe. second thing. I’d forget about the bottled water. It’s more consistent to use your tap water. third thing. And this one’s hard to hear. Bettas from petsmart/petco often don’t live anywhere near as long as they should. My bettas live anywhere from 3 months to 2 years. A lot live less than a year from there. Their genetic stock has gotten weak. They are more susceptible to diseases and develop weird tumors. fourth thing. You’re going to want some actual medicine to treat him. Either maracyn2 or kanaplex. Either from a local fish store or from Amazon. As for what and how the best way to treat is. @Colu

Nothing like starting off on opposing views 😂. If it was more than that I’d be opposed too

I think 3 tenths of an inch on both ends is not going to be an issue. The banding on the bottom should be an inch and a half. The majority of the brace is supported just fine.

Maybe some shell dwellers? Or some rock dwellers. Neolamprologus splendens or Julidochromis ornatus? Bit of a different look than normal Tanganyika cichlids. Bit soft on the water, but not terribly.

I have no idea. iPhones and pads can be touchy sometimes, lots of minute checks . They can be really annoying sometimes. But both my iPhone and iPad work fine as well as 2 pc’s. In the current iOS as well. Was just reporting in that the site still works fine. honestly, if it was me with that problem, I’d be lost as well. Maybe something accidentally changed under security?

I’m not having any issues. Over 4 different devices. Has to be something on your end. An update or security checkmark that’s been accidentally checked?

Well maybe not hoplos. Apparently 10 inches long with big mouths.

Get something funky and unusual. Red lizard whiptail catfish, hoplo cat, giant otos. Some you think is cool and unusual. And you wouldn’t have thought of before.

And pair behavior is different for each pair. I had 2 pairs and 2 extra males in one tank with little aggression. My marble female ditched her mate and repaired with another male. That male was aggressive as heck. Even pushed rainbow fish to the bottom. They are now in their own breeding tank. The spare males have been joined by 2 more males. Possibly more as we get more. And back to minimal aggression. Hopefully I can get the big marbles to breed. Not having luck in the breeding tank yet. Anyway, cichlid behavior depends on the personality of the angelfish . Possibly more than any other type of fish. If you can sex them and not get a pair, the aggression doesn’t build up much. Have 4 more juveniles coming in. Hoping to get an all male tank at this point.