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I agree with Lennie about Simply. I don't know what's going on with this fish. It certainly isn't a short gill plate. Looks almost like one of the gills broke loose and is hanging out. Just a couple of other observations... the red cover is very thin, can't see profile of the others, but would guess they are also thin. They need to be wormed, levamisole is a good choice. Eliminating worms with gravel substrate is going to be a challenge. What temp are you keeping them at? How often are you changing water and how much? Not the greatest pictures here, but discus should have a good "thick" profile when viewed from the front. Yours has a pinched forehead andnhas likely been in decline for weeks or months.

CJBear...lets think a bit wider here. Fin rot is often a consequence of a stress source, and sometimes secondary to the actual issue. So my next questions: -What are you water parameters? (including temp) -How long has tank been established? -What species is the fish who is affected? I would recommend Maracyn 2 or Kanaplex, as a blind recommendation without the answers to the above questions. Personally, I have had more success w/Kanaplex in the water column, and Maracyn 2 in the food, mixed w/Focus and Garlic Guard.

Yes, you just need to keep them covered

Very much doable. Personally I would move the livestock into large tubs for the duration. Several especially if you can get some that you can leave as is and just take when you want to move. That will probably be less stressful than moving into tub then tank then tub and tank again. The small tanks are easy peasy. The big ones are going to take time and thought but not hard please tell me you have friends that have strength, I had to move my tank by myself.

Sounds very nice. I appreciate the live plants. Bear in mind that emersed plants may out draw nutrients from immersed plants. You will probably need to use liquid fertilizer (e.g. Easy Green, or Flourish). Don’t bury the Bolbitis rhizome. Algae will arrive eventually. Betta splendens are highly variable in temperament. Sometimes they are perfect tank mates for Neons and Corydoras. Other times they’re assassins. Consider the Betta imbellis if you want a generally more peaceful species. If Neons are not healthy from your sources, consider _Black Neons_ as an alternative, hardier schooling fish. Whatever you decide, get a group of 12x or more. They do better in numbers. I right-sided your tank photos… My Aponogeton plants grow very large, and could really overwhelm a 20 gal. tank volume.

@Colu @Whitecloud09 Hi there!! My 2 common carnival goldfish have recovered from Dropsy. Threw out the food. Finished Metroplex. Thank you so much for your help! Could not have cured them if not for this support. All the best, Colette

The gills are definitely anemic, which can be caused by a number of things. I would trust @jwcarlson and @Colu with their observations. The gills shouldn’t look like that either they should be structured like a fan or a brush difficult to say whether that was caused by poor conditions or genetic disease as some populations of discus are severely inbred. Source: journal of Zoomorphology volume 142 pg 87-92

I agree with this. Especially cichlids which have quite a bit of social intelligence. The whole one size fits all does not work with cichlids. Case in point in college I had a misfits tank of fish that needed to be rehomed. One of them was a male convict cichlid. These guys are the chihuahua of the fish world small but feisty. Mine though? More like a labrador. Kind, cuddly, curious. Never once chased or bullied even during feeding time. Really wanted to hang with my school of gold gouramis but that was an exclusive club so he settled for shenanigans with Bob the goldfish

I lost two of my discus to a gill disease. Assumed to be gill rot. Nothing ever I tried worked for 8 months of treatment Discus rarely do good in such type fully substrate community tank environment sadly. They are mostly used to and require pristine conditions with perfect water quality. I will tag our friends here @Odd Duck @Colu @jwcarlson but I would highly recommend going to simplydiscus forum and also ask there ASAP Also you should share your water parameters, temp, tank size, stocking, how you acclimated, etc to find a better answer

you adjust your tank and the cloudiness goes away and the algae fades... Priceless... 🙂

Thanks for this! Gotta hope it doesn’t leak or have any issues after being in the moving truck or car!

I’ve moved with a 125 before and in my experience, as long as you take your time, go over everything as you’re doing it, then you should be good. The suggestions above are excellent and you should be successful.

I would up the level of epsom salt to 1 table spoon for 2 gallons for another three days I would also start treating with metroplex in food feeding a small amount twice a day for 14 days

What you can is add alkaline buffer to your water in bucket before adding it to the tank before each water change as long as your testing your water after adding the buffer to make sure it's within the range you want I would get the fish out of the bag and in side the tank as soon as possible you will start to get ammonia build up in the bag

Most cases of fin rot are caused by gram negative bacteria so maracyn2 or kanaplex would be my go to treatment any antibiotic treatment can kill your benefial bacteria so I always test more frequently during treatment I would quarantine and treat the fish on it own I would also add Indian almond leaves as they have antibacterial and antifungal properties you might have to add one leaf per gallon to get a beneficial effect if the fish is on it's own I would go ahead and treat in it's main tank i would test your water parameters and temperature and look at what your feeding just in case something off as @quikv6 suggested

I can get a pump!

That's kind of what I was thinking. kind of cuts down on the sloshing around and potential for injury. if it sloshes a bit, it just gets bumped into another sloshing bag, instead of hard plastic. you could also keep it dark so they can't see enough to get spooked and jump. As for how else to do it. I'd be hesitant to offer any advice. You know these guys better than anyone else and what they would potentially do given any situation. And they're obviously your babies and incredibly beautiful. So, all I can say is Good Luck with the moves! and get lots of help. I'm sure it will be exhausting. one other thing I might add. Putting them at your parents (in a temporary tote) and taking the tank a week or 2 earlier. that way you could get the tank situated and ready for them without keeping them alive in it at the same time

You are only keeping them in the bucket for the time to move so what was that 3 hours right? The other choice is bag them like the lfs would

Thanks for sharing that mini guide! Super helpful. I’ve been wanting to grab a new tank for some blue dreams and you may have just convinced me😂

With a planted tank or plenty of line of sight breaks, I believe 6 would be fine in that size aquarium. With that being said, have more females than males. I would shoot for 2 males and 4 females.

maracyn is just the old standard erythromycin. You would be better off with maracyn2. Both have an equal chance of killing your cycle. and if you're not doing an extended course of either, the cycle should be fine

When talking about an entire species of fish it's tough to say they will always act like xyz or whatever. Some individuals (especially cichlids) are just very aggressive regardless of species. A sample size of one fish isn't exactly definitive

Ha, I'm the exact opposite! One of the things I like about aquatic plants is that it takes the overwatering/underwatering factor entirely out of it, and that's the thing I always struggle with with terrestrial plants. They've had behind-the-scenes at the old Washington warehouse before explicitly showing snails in the plant storage tanks, I think intentionally. They've since moved the warehouse to Kentucky, but I doubt they'd have changed the snail policy. In any case, a) the plant health and quality I've gotten from ACO has been great; and b) if it ever wasn't, their customer service is second to none.

Looks like a couple of my platies have started to appear male - so far just two. They're growing pretty slowly, but the tank stays at 68-70, and only gets fed once or twice a day. I don't really want to put a heater in or heat the room, so they'll just have to grow slow! No more cherry shrimp losses, so I think it was just an acclimation issue.

Here you go! Thanks! It is not very interesting, but I will add plants next week!!!! Stay tuned. The light is off, I forgot. Whoops 😆

Couple of possibilities could have been caused by Gill rot or a genetic deformitie what are your water parameters ammonia nitrite nitrate pH KH GH temperature any rapid breathing hanging out near the surface lethargy flashing spitting food out sunken belly white stringy poop has it had Reddening of gill plate or Gill @yeebee29

Maybe they should go to SCHOOL. 😀

That's a conspiracy from Big Aquarium, who only sells fish at a discount in groups of 5. Coincidence? I THINK NOT. I bought 5 glass catfish. They are all thriving. Four of them swim together at all times, and the fifth one is like Diogenes sitting in his big pot outside the city walls. He doesn't give a ****.

Sorry. I’m a bit slow Yeah. Me too. Land plants I can do. Still learning aquatic plants

https://reverserespiration.com/

Possibly using the reverse respiration method that many here like? Which involves soaking in seltzer water instead of bleach. @mynameisnobody you know how to do this I believe?

Just placed my first live plant order. We'll see how it goes. Will buy more if good. Thx

I dont think 29g is suitable for any of those fish you mentioned really. If you google enough, you can find so many people keeping even goldfish in a 1 liter bowl online. You will always find numbers or care guides being recommended everywhere. Many people that love to comment on or write about stuff don't even have first hand experience with such fish. I did keep blood parrots in the past (my biggest regret along with discus sadly in this hobby) and I have goldfish. I don't have fh but I do know 3 people who has/had it. I don't think anything below 40g is suitable for a fancy goldfish that doesnt grow crazy big, but long body ones basically needs a very big tank or a pond. Ideally, I think even my 160 liter tank started feeling optimal in less than a year and I dont know what to do with mine in the future and they are indeed fancy goldfish. The reason why maybe it is adviced to keep goldfish at 29g because many goldfish today barely can even swim properly due to being bred to look "cute" with horrible effects on the fish's health overall, and even on the most basic aspects of its life like swimming or seeing. But for more normally shaped bodied healthier goldfish, bigger tanks or even ponds are awesome based on where you live ofc. Flowerhorns are basically kept at just barebottom no decoration tanks. Because their human made hybrid nature, their huge heads are fragile. I believe that's being the main reason why, not many people are willing to keep a single fish in a just zero decoration fish only tank even barebottom and spare a big tank at home just for that. Most people don't have many tanks like so many of us do here, so they want to utilise their space at home and the species they keep based on the conditions. FHs are fairly active swimmers, unlike many fancy goldfish. I know some might not agree with me, but hybrid fish commonly tend to be already problematic as they are already. Even going further and having a "short body" would make it even worse. The look comes with MANY problems as it is basically just the look to the eye, but overall completely more health issues to the fish itself. I would sincerely encourage to focus on optimal conditions and best care rather than focusing on the minimums. Meeting bare minimums is not the same with providing an ideal environment if you ask me. I could sustain my life based on living on meeting my own minimum requirements, but I wouldn't want that my whole life by any means. Especially considering we choose to keep fish, regardless of their will to be kept as is, at least we should try to provide our best, and minimum requirements are not meeting the best standards by any means. Personally, if I am only able to meet the minimums for a fish with such size and activity level, I would rather pass and try to set up a tank with smaller species that would find it heavenly

How cute is this snoot?

Hello from Quetsie

Hello, Shrimp are a lot of fun, and I would like to encourage you to give them a try, and I certainly understand your reluctance to jump in with both feet. The main drawback I see with your plan is the fact that while the shrimp will probably survive and establish a self-sustaining colony in your 60 gallon tank (provided there are enough hiding places for them), you probably won't see them very often. I have some of my cull shrimp in my 65 gallon community tank and I go weeks without seeing one, though I do see them more often now since the angelfish died. Below is some stuff I've written and added to over the last several months to help out new shrimp keepers. Some of the information is from personal experience and some is from other trusted sources. I hope it assists you with your efforts. Neocaridina shrimp (Neocaridina davidi; red cherry shrimp and the other available colors) are one of the easiest ornamental shrimp to keep, with a wider range of suitable water parameters than caridinas. Their parameters do overlap, but it's a narrow range, and not something I'd recommend for inexperienced shrimp keepers. I don't have any experience with caridinas (at least not yet), so I won't address them here. 6.8 to 8.0 pH is usually the recommended range for neos, with Gh from 6-12 and Kh at least 4. There are supplements you can add to the water to raise the hardness if yours is low. They will tolerate a wide range of temperatures, but around 72° F is generally considered best. At higher temperatures they will grow faster and breed faster, but they will also not live as long. Basically, higher temperatures accelerate their lifespan. Shrimp are sensitive to copper in the water, though the small amounts in commercial fish and shrimp food won't hurt them. Sponge filters are usually recommended for shrimp tanks. If you choose to use a hang-on-back instead be sure to cover the intake, or shrimp will wind up inside the filter. If you’re curious about how many to start with, the answer is as many as you can afford, but if money is a factor (which it often is for most of us), you can get a nice colony going with 10 or so. Of course, it will take longer than if you start with 25, but you’ll still probably get to 100 sooner than you expect. There are many color varieties, and they will readily breed with each other. The results will generally be brown or clear after a few generations (though you may get some interesting shrimp in the process). For this reason, if you want to maintain a specific color it's best not to mix them. Even if you do stick with a single color you'll need to remove undesirable colors occasionally. The amount of culling you'll need to do will likely vary depending on the purity of the shrimp you start with. From my personal experience my red shrimp need a fair bit of culling, while the blues ones need very little. Many people do keep and enjoy mixed colors, and there's certainly nothing wrong with that. If you do cull, you can have a separate dedicated tank for them, or add them to tanks with fish. Even in tanks with dedicated shrimp hunters you'd be surprised how many will survive, especially given adequate hiding places. I occasionally see one in my 65 gallon tank, and my big angelfish just loves shrimp. To get the most enjoyment from shrimp, keep them in shrimp only tanks, or just shrimp and snails. You don't have to worry about predation, and they'll also be more visible if there aren't predators in the tank with them, even if the predators are too small to be a threat to adult shrimp. Even if they are the only things in the tank, they will feel more secure with hiding places, especially when molting or when a female is releasing babies. Dense plants are a good option. Java moss, guppy grass, Süßwassertang, and pearl weed are some good choices. I like to have two kinds of dense plants; one at the bottom of the tank and another floating to provide hiding places in both locations. A pile of rocks, sized so that the shrimp can crawl inside, is also a good idea. They are sensitive to changing water parameters, so most experienced shrimp keepers recommend limiting water changes to around 15%, and the new water should be close to the same temperature. If you do larger water changes, it’s even more important to temperature match the water. Since they need biofilm to graze on, and are very intolerant of ammonia and nitrites, it's usually recommended to let a tank run for at least 3 months before adding shrimp, and 4 months is better. You might get by with adding them sooner by adding a sponge filter, plants, substrate, etc. from an established tank, but you still aren't likely to have as much success as you will if you're patient and let the tank "season" (I know this from first-hand experience, and not just once; I'm apparently a slow learner). In addition to the biofilm, they will also benefit from being fed. There are several commercial foods especially for shrimp, but I've also given mine several kinds of fish food, and they've eaten all of them. While there are mixed opinions about it, many people believe they also benefit from blanched vegetables once or twice a week. I've tried several things, and mine seem to prefer zucchini and spinach, followed by sweet peppers. I usually feed those late in the evening and remove any uneaten portion the next morning. By the way, shrimp just LOOOVE freshly crushed snails. Mine will swarm all over one. If you use CO2 in shrimp tanks keep it around 10 – 15 ppm, and definitely below 20 ppm. They often can’t tolerate the pH swings and/or elevated CO2 levels at higher concentrations. Of course, if you want to establish a colony you need males and females. Females are usually larger, and have better color, so when selecting them in a store you can get all females if you aren’t careful. It’s not difficult to tell them apart, even on shrimp that are the same age. The abdomen (the rear half) of females is larger than males, with the bottom line sagging down. Males’ abdomen is thinner, and it’s pretty much a straight taper from front to back. As females reach maturity they will develop a “saddle” on their back. This saddle (usually yellow) is the unfertilized eggs showing through their shell. They're ready to breed when they next molt, after which the fertilized eggs will move down below their abdomen where she will constantly “fan” them and juggle them around with their swimmerets to keep them aerated. Unlike some shrimp, neos don't have a larval stage, so they’ll hatch as very small fully developed shrimp after about 4 weeks. If you suddenly notice the shrimp swimming around the tank more than usual, it’s probably nothing to worry about. When a saddled female molts she releases pheromones signaling she’s ready to have her eggs fertilized, which gets the males swimming around trying to find her. If you notice a shrimp with a lighter colored lateral line on top that's called a "racing stripe", and is a harmless feature that's common with some color varieties. It will typically get wider, with the edges more ragged, as the shrimp gets older. It's very common on yellow shrimp, somewhat common on red ones, and I don't think I've ever seen it on blue ones. Don't worry about your tank becoming overstocked. They have a very small bioload, and a 10 gallon tank can hold hundreds of shrimp without becoming overcrowded.

Yesterday I did some leaf trimming. The crypt red wendtii is melting heavily. It could be the amazon sword growing over it, so I removed some of those leaves. I also removed a bunch from the lefthand sword too since it was covering up the mayaca fluviatilis. The water is so dark it's hard to see anything. I did test KH and GH again today and I'm up to 2° for both of them. (Yay!) What's more interesting to me is how many snails look much better than they did; clearly healthier shells on the outside ring. Everybody got bloodworms this morning because i'm going on vacation so they'll only have pellets for a few weeks with the autofeeder.

"Invertebrates but not shrimp specifically" is like "fish but not sting-rays specifically".

I’ve done this before and it works, you’ll be fine. I cannot tell you why or how, but I can tell you that afterwards, I had a mini bacterial bloom for 1-2 days and then all was well. I fed lightly until the canister was up and running again. I also seed my sponge filters by placing them in a stock pond with no air running through the ones to be seeded. I’ve pulled them out and have stocked an aquarium with them and never had an issue. Good luck, but I don’t think you’ll need it. PS awesome bala’s

Post pics when you can!! I love reading about your tanks!!!

So while I'm not fully cycled yet, I think we're getting close. After taking parameters yesterday I re-dosed with 2 tsp ammonia which I've found takes me up to about 1.5ppm in my 55 gallon tank. This evening ammonia was reading 0 and nitrites were only at 1ppm. Nitrates had gone up to 50. I'm not rushing out to buy livestock, but this feels encouraging!

Easy fish to keep and in my experience they will get along with all other tankmates. They will put on territorial displays to each but it will not result in damage. They do come from high flow environments, but that is not needed tlin the aquarium, they are not even the best swimmers and behave more like a goby.

I have used expel p with cherry shrimp in the aquarium and they were fine.

+1 with Pepere all the spare parts I bought plus the red cover that snaps over the impeller and the 4 orings for the aquastop assembly. I keep a hob just in case. All my 407 media will fit in the hob. You might have to do an extra water change.

I wonder if sterilizing the plants with 1:19 water to bleach ratio for 1.5-2.0 minutes will kill the hitchhikers. I ordered: I wonder if sterilizing the plants with 1:19 bleach to water ratio for 1.5-2.0 minutes will kill the hitchhikers.

Thanks! I feed a mix between frozen bbs and bloodworms and Xtreme pellets and flakes. But I think these are just a really good line - got them from Dan’s fish 😉 The small bumps went away on my fish and never came back so maybe it was just a bit of an injury 🤷🏻‍♀️

You are correct 💯

Some updates 🙂 drilled holes in 9 big tanks added bulkheads used styrofoam as mould, its perfect since the water wont escape Unpacked 40 aquariums added foam under aquariums Tomorrow planning to - paint wall black - finalize electric work - start plumbing - move big tank to rack Thanks for the tips! I considered adding less species per tank and keep things simplier. Using neo/corydora for cleaning the bottoms. Keeping Plecos in an isolated tank seems best. Would you combine canister and sponge (i got a loop already anyway) for the pleco tanks? with a 200l tank I would need to got for a large canister or can I connect all 4 pleco tanks to 1 sump . i can convert one to 200 liter tank to a sump easily and add 4 pumps to each tank.

My suspicion is the same as above. The bacteria should be mostly fine. It is well worth keeping a spare impeller kit, aquastop assembly, o ring gasket and hose assembly on hand for oopses like this…. With those parts on hand you can pretty much turn an oops into a halfhour inconvenience at worst…

Cory keeps these in a 40 breeder. Go to one of his last 6-7 videos and you’ll see how he has it setup and the tank mates that are housed with them. I wish I could recall and don’t quote me, but I’m pretty sure he’s got platys in there.