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If I engage from my field, I would say we are kind of still unsure. There are many many fish health and medicine studies all around the world being conducted as farm fish provides humans the easiest form of protein with the best ratio of feed to edible protein. But farm fish all have a common problem that we see in our fish tanks. Once you take a fish from the wild and put them in an enclosure they become more susceptible to bacterial, fungal, and parasitic interactions. Even if you ship them with water from their native land this happens. I wouldn’t even hazard a guess as to why this happens from a biological point of view. But I notice that when I keep my fish in a tank where I allow the flora and fauna to flourish and the mulm to buildup versus a sterile environment with no substrate and constant turnover of water I have a easier time keeping them alive. They get fin rot, some sort of bacterial infection on the gills or in the marine world eye infection if kept in these sterile conditions . Perhaps it is similar to the theory that the children who eat dirt and bugs snd play outside have a stronger immune system because their immune system is engaged with threats constantly and thus is better at identifying actual threats versus perceived threats? Suffice to say I don’t know. I think if we did know the aquarium industry would be better for it, not to mention aquaculture.

@Lennie, to your point, I once had a quarantine tank holding about 20 juvenile South American cichlids. I remember they were in QT for about 3 weeks without issue when I added one more fish who turned out to be extremely aggressive. He was there but a few days and was terrorizing the tank and the entire tank came down with the worst case of ich I had ever seen. All but the aggressor caught it. Also, to your point, my severums came down with what we ultimately believe was probably viral lymphocystis. A full 6 months of nearly every available antibiotic, dewormer, and anti-parasitical drug had no effect, nor did salt. The illness certainly had all the visual hallmarks of lympho as well as the symptomology. Although it was unsightly and oft times made it difficult for them to swim, it never killed any severums. At this time, @Guppysnail, @Odd Duck, @OnlyGenusCaps and I were experimenting with aquarium cycling acceleration techniques and beneficial bacteria products, and it finally dawned on me that I could try a probiotic approach on the alleged lympho. Why not, nothing else worked. I dosed the severum tank daily with 10X the normal dose of BB. No fish seemed to notice. It had no ill effects and in fact, it made the water extraordinarily clear. Prior to this, the full 6 months of treatments included: Minocycline Erythromycin Tetracycline Kanamycin Metronidazole Doxycycline Nitrofurazone Praziquantel Levamisole Fenbendazole Malachite Green/Formalin Methylene Blue Salt And I’m probably forgetting others we tried, also to no avail. The University of Florida published a study on anti-viral treatments in fish and provided these images of a lympho-infected fish (left) that appeared similar to what I see on my severums (right): Their microscope image of the infected and distorted cells is quite similar to mine although UNFL’s image (left) is much higher quality than mine (right): But inside of a week of inundating the tank with beneficial bacteria, this happened: Days 1-3 Day-4 Day-5 Where 6 months of drugs failed; a week of BB arrested what we think might have been lymphocystis. Why did it work? I wouldn’t know. I know next to nothing about biology. To that end, and this is pure speculation on my part, but my thinking was to ‘out compete’ the pathogen with a harmless bug. I guess dumb luck is still luck! 🤣 I consulted my friend @Odd Duck, and she suggested what we might be looking at here was the denial of binding areas; basically, the population of ‘real estate’ by the BB that therefore denied areas for the pathogens to attach and reproduce. I was also discussing this with my friend @Guppysnail to perhaps create an article about it but I decided not to as I’m ill-equipped to do more than speculate. In addition, I had no way to verify that this indeed was lympho. But what about immunity? What we all noticed when applying BB therapy was often the fish seem to have increased color and energy. Greater appetites and increased frequency of breeding. Water clarity improves as well. We have no way to assert with any authority that it did indeed improve their immunity nor anything definitive about the aforementioned binding area concept. But whatever it was, the affliction resisted months of antibiotics and anti-parasitical drugs, yet we saw it arrested in just days by repeatedly dosing the tank with BB. So, while not particularly useful, given the lack of verifiable data, I thought it was interesting and to your point @Lennie.

So many smart people around here! Excellent questions and topic. There is always risk of introducing new potential pathogens (whether they are bacterial, viral, fungal, or parasitic) when moving fish between tanks. Even more so moving them across the country or across the world. The most important thing is to do everything you can to maximize overall health since that will support their immune system. There’s some evidence that having beneficial bacteria around can stimulate the immune system to work better. Doing a gradual exposure is smart and may be helpful to act a bit like a vaccine / inoculation so the fish’s immune system can learn how to deal with the microlife in your tank(s). Wild caught fish would likely be well-served by getting a full round of deworming and certainly a solid quarantine time is the best way to spot if there are issues and allow for treatment time. I’m also a believer in making the quarantine tank as “homey” as possible giving the fish hiding places and plants as appropriate to minimize stress. If I have to discard or disinfect everything afterwards, I will. So do everything you can to keep the fish healthy and you are supporting their immune system.

Slacking on updates lately. I can barely come up for air. My hastatus Corydora are doing great but do not like their photo taken. Im eyeballs deep in fry. My GBR hatch is easily 150+. Last time it was only 50 or so. I figured this one was going to be larger since the parents were born in my tank. I certainly was not prepared. I had 2 -10gallons planned filters seasoning etc. In addition to those 2 I had to set up a 15g I was not prepared for. This is just the 15 Both of the Badis badis dads have figured out how to raise fry without them getting eaten at the same time. They released the batches within a week of each other. I pulled about 30+ and have another 30+ in the parent tank. They have gotten large enough they now ignore moina and live brine. They only eat grindle worms grudgingly. They are all about white worms. These alone having so many only wanting worms has put a hurt on my worm cultures. Trying to make sure GBR babies get some and the parent Badis badis and my frogs is quite challenging. Every day I approach the worm cultures in fear that today will be the day I do not have enough to feed my live worm only eaters 😬 Add to that my normal monthly 80-100 Apisto cacatoides babies and mounds of melini and Aspidora fry. I still have about 12 pleco babies one has awesome breakthrough color patch on his side I love him. Might keep him for awhile You can always tell when it gets close to swap time. I get a touch stressed as I run out of room and water changes increase. But I still love baby fish. January 6 is the swap that all these kids will go to the vendor 😅

Loaded with eggs again 😆

Hi everyone! Happy holidays! Here are some photos of the plants at the retail store that are looking particularly great right now. For pricing and availability, please email us at store@aquariumcoop.com or use the Contact Us page 😄

Oh, yes, now that you mention it, "Into the Wild" greatly affected me, as well. Eddie Vedder did the soundtrack and he's my "main man". It all just fit together perfect and broke many of our hearts. 💔

They look like the ones I just installed on my fish rack...got the idea from TM Aquatics. Not sure if they are or not, but these are great and super inexpensive, also easy to set up. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C73LHNNP?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

@Guppysnail what is the brand / size / source of those lights you use along the wall? They look good.

I LOVE IT!!!!! It's basically what I want to do to the back of several of my tanks plus I am adding more plants around the fish room to give it a natural, jungle vibe. Thanks for sharing!! Really is super impressive and I agree @Fish Folk, this def seems the future of our hobby and one I can fully get behind!

My emersed growth comes if necessity. My tap runs average 25 ppm nitrate and over winter 40 ppm. I use houseplants that can tolerate wet feet. The majority are fast growers but I throw in things like anthurium and inchplants for a fun color pop. Here are a few of mine. Every tank has as much emersed growth as I can stuff into it

Don't want to hijack your thread with unrelated connections, but @Guppysnail shared some impressive emersed growth from Aquaponics plants she's set up. They'd be appropriate to share here again, IMHO. She has glorious indoor growth! I do think that Aquaponics is going to become a major thing in the near future of the hobby. There are a lot of good reasons to keep fish that way. My friend, who designs Aquaponics setups, really never changes water on his freshwater tanks. He just tops things off now and then. Plant roots sort out chemical buildups wonderfully, along with micro-fauna.

@Colu @nabokovfan87 I do have a breeder box. I have mollies and platys. It's become a necessity. They've outgrown it though. Now I have three 20 gallon tubs full of em, lol. My LFS's buys them from me at $2 a fish, so not bad. I am hoping to spawn the C. Schultzei. I also have one male albino platinum molly that I am hoping to spawn. Anyway, I think I have good news. I am hesitant to say it because the last time I did, the fish got dropsy and died a few days later.... With that said, the C. Schultzei isn't perching anymore. He's joined his mates on the bottom again. They ate aggressively this morning including the percher. Still keeping a close eye on him.

Back in the 70s my dad operated a small-time shrimp boat to catch live bait for my grandfather's bait shop. We used to catch pipefish by the ga-jillions in the shrimp nets (which we would promptly put back into the water). No idea what species they were (they were in the eel grass flats of a saltwater bay in NJ -- northern pipefish maybe?). Either way, long story short, the pictures of these fish bring me waaaaaay back on the nostalgia train. Thanks for sharing! Good luck breeding them. Looking forward to more posts!

Here I'm posting my backyard pond and will try to keep it somewhat regularly updated. It's a 100 gallon horse trough with a half whiskey barrel full of lava rock as the filter. I have it covered to keep my young children from falling in. I know many people have been hesitant to using a galvanized tubs but I have had good luck so I wanted to post my experience. I started it in spring of 2021 but was waiting to add fish until the rice fish I wanted became available. In late fall I finally found 6 lamé rice fish from Dan's fish and put them in my pond but it was already to cold to get them breeding. They stayed in there all winter doing quite well and when they finally started breeding for me in spring 2022 I found out I had to move. I decided to move the pond to my parents house while I found a new house. At my parents house I also added my red dragon guppies from twin city guppies to ensure their well-being during the move. I had 15 rice fish at that time and after the move to my parents I think only 5 survived. In June 2022 I moved the pond to it's final destination and after catching out all the guppies (several hundred fry and doezens of adults) I was left with only 2 male rice fish! 😞 In July 2022 I bought and added 4 gold rice fish and a trio of red neon psedomogil from Dan's fish. Currently I'm feeding and growing out these fish in hopes that this summer makes me hundreds of the fish I was trying to make instead of the guppies I already had too many of inside. The pics with the wheat grass growing out of the top of the barrel are from it's first location and the other pics are where it lives now. It still needs work as it's not currently covered and now that I have swapped the filter to the other side I have to rework the pipes that feed the filter to be more hidden. the bottom wine barrel is 99 percent full of lava rock in order to support the top whiskey barrel witch has a plastic liner in it and is also full of lava rock except for the top black river rocks for looks.

Funny you ask about this project when just yesterday I thought about posting an update. Firstly I messed with the plumbing a bit in order to hide it. That went well. Or at least I thought it had gone well. The fitting I used to put the pipes through the plastic whiskey barrel is called a uniseal. At first they are awesome and can seal a pipe passing through curved plastic like a 5 gallon bucket but I have found that they start leaking over time. I have built multiple projects using these fittings and they have all failed after months of use. So one day I get home and the pond is half full and the leak is clearly coming from the whiskey barrel. The way to fix it is to fully empty the filter of all the lava rocks (for the 4th time) and use a stupid amount of silicone all around the fitting and hope that I cleaned the area well enough before hand that the silicone adheres well to the PVC pipe and the abs plastic liner. Maybe in the spring I will do all that. So that's the pond itself. The plants changed a bit too. Firstly my pond only gets a few hours of sun each day. So the sword plant died and never came back. I expected that to happen though. Then I made the trip to Sunland water gardens in southern California. Super cool koi store. I bought a huge pot of bacopa Caraliniana and also a lotus and a pond plant that floated leaves on the surface that look like 4 leaf clovers. They were all super cool but it seems that only the lotus is doing well. I transferred some of the bocopa into my fish room before it died all the way off. Lastly the stocking changed too. The rice fish came inside so that I could try to get more eggs over the winter but so far I don't have many. I probably have 3 full grown adults and 15 juveniles. They are currently in with my neon red rainbow fish and a single guppy that is about to drop. In the pond I have a pair of feeder guppies that were supposed to go to my mom's house to keep her pool free of mosquitos over the winter but the pool never tested safe enough to add them so instead I have some big fishes to take care of. They do eat lots of duckweed for me though!! 🙂 in the spring I intend to add the rice fish back outside and bring the goldfish inside. I want to have hundreds of these rice fish but it's been years of trying and I still have less than 20. fyi, the net is a golf net off Amazon and it's held by a ratchet strap. Works pretty well and it's purpose is to keep my 2 year old from getting into the pond. I don't put it past her for a second to climb in and that could be very bad so for safety I knew I needed a lid of sorts. I tried many and this is definitely the strongest.

Wow. Many thanks to everyone. Such great info to learn from! 😍🤗 @dasaltemelosguy I'm happy to hear they ended up healing. Your severums look great

I'd go for a pair bonding species that is appropriate to the dithers you keep (for example rams require 82 and borelli 74 (thought the borelli are actually quite flexible); your water is moderately soft. There are 100's of dwarf cichild species - i'm partial to a. nijjensi and nannacara amolae but there are others with pros and cons. Some are more interactive with their owners (i really like my keyholes) and others are more skiddish but happy to see you (b. cupido); and some just wnat you to feed them and leave them alone (a. cockatoo). The a. sp winkelspec are not bad and will do a dance when you say hi to them. Anyway given your tank size and experience level - i'd start with something not too aggressive and fairly robust and flexible on water condition which fits a. borelli. They are not pair bonding and like most domestic fishes are horribly inbred but if you can find a nice dark blue opal male they are at least quite lovely: If your aquarium was larger i'd suggest 6 keyholes.

It might help to keep the yeast separate from any salt you might be adding until it has really taken off. And/or mix it with a little warm water and maybe some sugar for it to eat. It can get really booming before you put it in the mix.

This is a topic which i have asked knowledgeable people about and take what is say with a grain of salt. First like many things this is a sliding scale - sort of like being exposed to 2nd hand smoke; it will affect some fishes more than others and at different rate - some species are more sensitive than others and individual fishes are more sensitive. But also it isn't cut and dry too much and you die instantly (like ammonia) rather it has a long term impact on health. So many folks would say xxx doesn't impact my fishes but what they really mean is the fish didn't die the next morning; not that the fish only lived 2 years instead of 4 years. Last but least not all nitrate are equivalent. I never really understood this but there is an article somewhere that talk about nitrate from fish waste vs typical plant fertilizer. Of course fertilizer itself in any sort of noticeable quantity is adding pollutants to water. Last but least most common domestic apisto (like many gbr) are a mess genetically. They have been bred for colour and have 'weak' genetics and frequently won't live as long as their wild counter parts. When a fish dies how do you determine why it died - did it die because you kept it at the wrong temp for too long a period (sort of the conversation with the fellow who keeps panda cory in a discus tank; he declares they do fine at 84 but only 4 of them live for 2 years and the other 8 die but he doesn't mention that). Anyway my general understanding is that concentration of nitrate is not healthy for the fish but it is not like ammonia it just weakens the fish and makes the fish more likely to suffer from other issue (such as bloat); but there is no easy way to quantify the long term impact. I can't tell you if it reduces the life span by 10% or 50%. There have been some imperative data that suggest high nitrate contributes to hole in the head disease so there is that data point. Remember for many fishes the best thing you can do is frequently change the water to keep it pure so that should be a hint that additives are generally speaking having a negative impact.

So sorry for your loss. I appreciate you trying so hard and doing everything you could for Spike.

Just took a couple photos of my “Precious Metals” Guppies. They’ve kicked out a purple mosaic fella, and I’m too intrigued with him to cull. Here’s how I set up a cool-light photo… (1) 55-gal LED gets propped up on empty large specimen containers (2) A clear ACO Specimen Container (the best, BTW!) is used in the middle under lights for photos. First shows uncropped. Second and third are cropped. And that is how to sell Guppies 😎

I suppose it depends on how hungry you are, @Tanked. 🤪

That does look cool. Depending on the size of rock, some bits of well trimmed moss would make it look like some trees were there too.

I had to look up RAS to begin getting a grip. It would be neat to learn more! I have been working with emersed plant growth in various aquaponics set ups to filter nitrate and cut down minerals. If you’re up for explaining what you’re learning, others would appreciate it !

Just built a 100gal galvanised pond. Coated the inside in pond shield and added a water fountain similar to deans muck bucket design. Get around 110gal per hr per spout so 220. Now to planting

Looks lovely. My understanding is that the galvanized tanks leach zinc when new, but after they have held water for a year or two are less dangerous.

This is the one I am doing …. It fits perfectly for where I wanted it …like you I had space challenges. This one fit the space perfectly and wasn’t very expensive .

So I keep two outdoor gardens, I collect rare cactus(my friend is super into it and raises them, gives me deals on super cool rare ones), rare indoor potted plants along with hanging plants & my screened porch area. Here's some pics of some of my faves... White Fusion Plant aka Calathea White Fusion aka Calathea Lietzei Variegated Monstera Albo aka Monstera Borsigiana Albo Variegata In my garden last summer...those are all my tomatoes 🙂 Heirloom Carrots from my winter garden recently Pothos and Christmas Cactus Bridgesii x Pachanoi, Sharxx Blue x Roseii 1, Peru Blue 3 x Sharxx Blue, Weka, Churchill amongst others. Just some of the planted things I got going on around the property...what about y'all? 🙂

Hi guys . So I have a one liter breeding box ( for guppies or something) with slits in the bottom. I tried several times moving a clump of moss and pair of fish, or just moss filled with eggs, but it never amounts to anything and I always end up with snails, film on the surface, mess and no fry. I thought the air exchange from the surface will be enough. Should I lift it up to dump the older water and the debries and fill with new? Wont that risk the eggs? How do you do it, without an airstone? Thanks

Since picking up this addiction hobby, I've found myself gambling purchasing driftwood and rocks online through Amazon and the like, just to see what kinds of pretty pieces of hardscape I might get. I can't even use it all, but it's all so pretty! It's like buying packs of baseball cards! Anyone else do this or do I need to get help?

I have been trying to balance a high-tech planted setup. I have rummynose tetras, some corys and an Apistogramma agazzii in a 20 long. I have C02, a fluval 3.0, and an aquaclear 50 which provides excellent surface agitation and circulation. C02 levels are at a safe level running at about 1.5 bubbles per second. Drop checker is a dark green and has never gotten anywhere near yellow. I have UNS aquasoil under a coarse sand cap. This tank is about 7-8 months old but I admittedly neglected fertilizing for several months resulting in a lot of melt. I obviously wasn't dosing nearly enough ferts. My nitrates were always almost 0 and my plants were suffering. Lots of melt in "easy plants". I guess the c02 and light was pushing the pants to grow and the lack of nutrients led to melt. Ive slowly been trying to up my nitrates to somewhere around 40-80ppm, I have plenty of plants to absorb the nitrates. Plants are slowly starting to look a lot better and algae is dying off. I have been increasing my doses of easy green slowly to account for the added light and c02. I perform a 5-gallon water change once a week. So far it has been difficult to get my nitrates past 40ppm. The rummynose are looking great; very active schoolers and their heads are nice and red, indicating good health. However my apisto looks like it is about to die. No sign of heavy breathing but he is sticking to the bottom acting very lethargic and is barely swimming around. A lot of resources online suggest that apistos (and other cichlids from around the world) are extremely sensitive to nitrates. I suspect that this is a common boogeyman in our hobby but who knows? I doubt my apisto is dying due to excess nitrates. Could it just have been sick from the store? He has never looked very active even when I first brought him home. Again, my c02 levels look to be safe as all my other fish are healthy and active with no gasping or signs of stress. I also care for lake tanganyikan cichlids that many consider "sensitive" and that cant be further from the truth, they are very very hardy once provided good stable pH. I monitor nitrates but not as obsessively as many online would want me to with africans. I try not to change pH in my planted aquarium in an effort to maintain a stable environment.

Hello everyone! There is a common topic that is named as "bacteria conflict" in my country which is believed to be more common beyond guppies, discus and angelfish. They suggest not to mix these fish from different sources and lean towards locally bred species. Some claim their "bacteria" conflicts with each other resulting in deaths. Some think this is a misconception of discus plague. I think this is all about immunity. ------------------------- So, whenever we get a new fish, we *ideally* quarantine them, acclimate them to their new environment, check for their care guides, learn from experiences, prepare a tank to meet their needs... and so on But one thing I think we don't pay enough attention to is their immunity, pathogens and how they will handle going into a community tank after completing all the quarantine and stuff successfully. How does fish immunity work actually? For instance, when we get a wild-caught fish or fish from farms (which mightve raised their fish in brackish conditions, thus their immunity might not be used to even common stuff to handle, or is already used to water and conditions of a faraway land), how can we make these fish get used to their new environment actually? Besides a good diet, environment, low stress, and keeping the tank between ideal temperatures, can we do anything else do build some immunity? Like adding some floating plants or adding some water from the main tank to the quarantine tank slowly like once a week to build up resistance by going slow? What would be the safest way to build up the immunity system before completing a quarantine and directly being added to a new tank? (I know these fish go through stressful times - at least transportation all alone- and likely end up in many different tanks before ending up in our tanks, but I would love to learn more about immunity and what we can do to build up some resistance. Like if I wanna keep my wc fish in a community setup, what should I do? Tagging the three 😝🥰 @Odd Duck @Colu @Biotope Biologist

Hey Folks, i intend to use Activ-Flora Planted Aquarium Substrate for my planted tank. is this substrate by itself is good enough or is it inert and acts just like a cap? i intend to grow monte carlo, amazon sword, java fern, creeping charlie and a few other plants in my tank. but i do want to plant slightly on the heavier side. this will be a 75 g tank. trying to save some money as the more nutrient rich soils seem to be super expensive. My main concern here is growing the monte carlo.

Well for once right now I do not have any airpump free and the box is just so damn tiny I do not know how much would I even have to restrict the flow to the barest minimum Also on the other hand I sort of hoped thanks to the holes in the bottom there will be some water exchange and the surface area to be large enough to promote oxygen but if not, I will have to wait with further experiments till I get some small airpump. I also have no idea where the snails come from, as they are never there when I put the moss in. The reason why I am even trying is after my initial success with clown killifish and luminatus, I no longer have new fry. Either I feed too little ( I think my paramecium cultures crashed, will try to restart them after the holidays) or the juveniles are eating the youngest fry

Here is a long running thread of forum members non fish pets.

Tell me the steps in order of how to breed cherry barbs. Also do I condition each of them in a separate tank or just in one tank, because right now that’s what I’m trying to do.

Thanks for your experience! Based on what I read in other forums/threads most people have some problems with the activity level of the pygmy corydoras as they can go from completely crazy to completely hidden in a matter of days. What I find curious in my tank is, the biggest corydoras that was obviously older than the others in the batch, is always active, always somewhere front and center, and from the others I can hardly see them. They do a lot of leaf resting and under leaf hiding case in point. On the other hand I just counted the visible rasboras and got to 11. Last week I couldnt get above 5-6. Where the heck were the other fish hiding, did they take a vacation and came back recently? Confusing, but loving the fact that they are more out. If you however notice they hang out in this one particular spot in a strange manner. Is that a normal behavior for them? I have to watch some videos I guess

Given you have many of my "wish list fish" would you be able to recommend to me, what in your opinion is a better fish? Especially for a standalone smaller tank (for future, I do not have one now 🙂 ) would it be the bumblebee gobies alone? the sparkling gourami? the gudgeons? Thank you

Brackish Paludarium I've been trying out something potentially untested with peacock gudgeons in my low end brackish tank. The thought being that many fish in the eleotridae have brackish tolerance and spend parts of their lives in brackish water. Also the family is thought to have evolved from marine fish. So far, so good. They have been doing quite well and are very fun to watch. "Falco" the peacock gudgeon "Foxy" the peacock gudgeon Fiddler crabs Bumblebee goby 75g "Blueberry" the red cheek crayfish Siamease algae eaters and baby reticulated hillstream loaches "Jed" the electric blue acara "Lance" the guppy 10g My two male apisto borelli that were in my 40g were lip locking, so I thought it best to separate them. I decided to put one in my 10g. Also, I was getting tired of breeding guppies, so I decided to take my female adult guppies to my LFS and moved the males to other tanks. Now the tank has a pair of apisto borelli and some sparkling gourami. "Pluto" the apisto borelli. This is the one that was dominating the other in my 40g so I decided to move it "Venus" the apisto borelli Sparkling gourami Cherry shrimp 40g "Comet" the golden dwarf cichlid "Mecury" the golden dwarf cichlid "Marmaduke" the araguia dwarf acara "Aura" the apisto borelli "Hazel" and "Gogo" the goldfish 29g "kuhli loach" "Sol" the apisto agassizii fire red "Luna" the apisto agassizii fire red "Derp" the angelfish

I had some of that moonlight / very fine sand and I felt so bad for Riddick. It was the sand the store had in a small bag so it was what I used. Swear that fish had a sand beard for a few months until I was sure it wasn't ich. I still, to this day, need to go get a bag of sand from the shop, but yeah. Is the fist still being vertical or just sort of hanging around near the top? Secondarily, if need be, do you have a breeder box or something if you need to use that and keep the fish towards the surface of the water? (I don't think you do, but just trying to cover all the bases.

I don’t ever use bleach. Against any bacteria or parasite hydrogen peroxide is just as affective yet supremely safer to use. I actually read a few articles at one point on mycobacterium. You need to use a high concentration bleach solution for I think 30 minutes before bleach starts to work on mycobacterium. Hydrogen peroxide started to work almost immediately and killed it in I think 15 minutes. Those may not be exact time since it’s been years since I read those articles. Peroxide is cheap, available, pour it on straight, no rashes or reactions for me, immediate safe equipment use, no residue, no fear of not entirely dechlorinating all the concentrated chlorine AND…. For sloppy folks like ME does not leave bleach spots on clothes, carpets, towels and anything else I even look at while using bleach 🤣🤣🤣🤣 BONUS PEROXIDE DOES NOT STINK 😁

Last one that really resonated a long time with me was Into the Wild. I have had more that have since, but that one really got to my core. Many documentaries do that to me, but definitely Chris McCandless' story was one I read and seeing it in film, the way it was shot by Sean Penn(the director), was pretty incredible to see. Often times I wish I could just leave it all behind and walk alone into the wild.

I watch the same 3 every Christmas Day.... A Christmas Story, Home Alone and Die Hard. It's not Christmas until you see Hans Gruber fall from Nakatomi Plaza. Nuff said.

I do this. I strongly believe that especially among things like guppies imported. They are raised in brackish water and like you said have built no immunity to common tank bacteria. Often starting with a touch of salt in a qt with fish then slowly changing it out then slowly adding water from the min tank they will live in is a way I like to do it. That way if they are going to be negatively impacted they can adapt slowly or be treated until their immune system can handle whatever exists in the main tank that my fish dont even notice. Great topic 👍

terrestrial wise i have two species of isopod. Porcellionides Pruinosus "Powder Orange", and Armidilidium Vulgare "Wild Type" The bad pictures are my personal isopods, the good pictures are not. P. Pruinosus: and A.Vulgare:

That looks super cool!

Snoopy is ALWAYS being cute 🥰

I was trying to take a photo of the plants and afterward I looked at it and saw that Snoopy was being cute for the camera.