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Odd Duck

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Everything posted by Odd Duck

  1. I get the same for Amazon swords and a little more for the few Crypts I’ve taken in (I love my Crypts and usually only share with friends, 😆) with only plant weights. I’ve gotten the same ($2.00) for vesuvius swords in clumps of 5-6 (usually have a few with little runners). I get $1.50 for a clump of pearlweed or Christmas moss. I get $2.00 for 5 stems of Ludwigia ovalis or glandulosa, or water wisteria (some of the few stem plants that grow for me). I need to start printing labels, even if I only use them fir local swap meets.
  2. Yes. Ammonia burn, or any other kind of chemical burn, is one of the things that can cause gill damage and reduced oxygen to the fish’s brain.
  3. I LOVE these! How many can I put in a 14 G cube and what kind of light do I need to make them shine like that! I’ve been searching for something a little different that would be able to prosper in a 14 gallon, preferably as a school or at least a shoal. These are stunning and I MUST find some! Thank you!
  4. Probably need more light to trigger flowering, would be my guess. Mine throw surface pads about 8” across but I don’t have super strong lights and they haven’t flowered. I did get a runner from mine recently. I might have to pot up one of my small ones next spring and try it in my little outdoor pond over the summer. I expect it might need a couple years to get to flowering size.
  5. That would be nice! I don’t typically pot my spare plants when I take them to my LFS. I do put weights on them so they can just take them out of the bags and plop them in their tanks and they’re ready to display. I get a bit more for them if I have them labeled (Sharpee on the bag) and weighted. I also get much more for any kind of sword than for, say, pearlweed, that grows fast and is less sought after. I just use fish bags and tie a knot usually. Sometimes I’ll get fancy and do a rubberband. 😃 I’ve taken in some tall plants, so sometimes they’re too tall to tie a knot. I've only had Amazon swords and Vesuvius swords throw runners. But most of my other swords are very “young” relatively speaking.
  6. I would bump the water circulation and add more air if you can. Hillstream loaches can do OK with normal circulation but will do better with more, so worth adding to the above recommendations.
  7. Could it be too much CO2? That’s the only thing that sounds likely to me and gasping at the top should always be taken as a “not enough oxygen” sign. It could also be anything that causes gill damage since that also equals not enough oxygen. It sounds like you have enough water circulation with an HOB plus sponges, so is there any chance of an anaerobic pocket being released? Any odor to the tank?
  8. When I set up my 100 G, I had it set in my head that I was going to do a big school of cardinals. The more I read about some of the new tetras and rasboras available, the more I wanted to try them. Chilis are too small to keep with cardinals and I really wanted to try chilis. So I’m holding on cardinals for now. When I get my angelfish tank set up, it’s likely to either be cardinals or rummynoses as schoolers and dithers for the angels and I haven’t yet decided which. Both are old friends of mine from decades ago.
  9. I’m sure someone has, but whether that info is readily accessed is another story.
  10. Water changes as needed to keep the ammonia under control. You’ll have to size up the filter and tank, or do fewer fish at a time. What size tank do you have available for a QT? What kind of fish do you want and how many is your end goal? Edit to add it probably won’t kill ALL your bacteria, but it can sure give them a bad knock. They tend to bounce back quicker than they built up in the first place, but it’s better to always have a QT anyway.
  11. I like the chili’s, they’re very pretty, but I don’t see them much. I probably need even more of them. I likely have close to 30 (I added 30) but they’re completely impossible to count since they spend so much time hiding. I haven’t found any dead bodies, but it’s heavily planted and I have multiple species of both snails and plecos in the tank, so unless they dropped right in the front I wouldn’t see them. Ooooh! Nice!
  12. My current favorite is ember tetras (Hyphessobrycon amandae) because they are a beautiful pale to intense orange (apparently females are slightly lighter color) with a nice, reflective belly showing through the color. They’re a nice contrast with green plants. They intermittently school (not tight schoolers, more shoaling), but will randomly group up or with any stimulus. They stay active through the day but not frenetic. They will do some showing off between themselves, but they don’t bother anybody else, not even the similar body shape Kubotai rasboras or the tiny chili rasboras in the same tank. They are just busy enough to make counting them impossible in my 100 G tank. After I got some, I bought more. That should say something right there. I’m considering buying even more, too.
  13. Thanks for doing these measurements. Is this in inches or centimeters? I ask because this is an international forum. I’m sure anybody can do the conversion but if they’re not fully familiar with the filters in question (maybe contemplating purchase) they will need to what your units are to do the conversion.
  14. I’m so glad we match up on our answers! Nice to have a couple different ways of saying the same thing. We must have posted at almost the same time, but I’m ORD.
  15. No, it’s not safe. It will kill off a lot of your beneficial bacteria. If you have an already mature filter, pull it out and use one that isn’t mature, then swap back once meds are out. Make sure to keep the seasoned filter alive in another tank. If you don’t have a mature filter, you can start treating in the quarantine tank (remove carbon first but save it, you’ll need it later). Start a filter maturing in your display tank as soon as possible (if you haven’t already). Then you’ll have a cycled tank for them to go into once your 30 day quarantine is done.
  16. It’s the 75 gallon in my sig. Funny you mention jewel cichlids. The owner I got them from thought they were jewel cichlids since they were sold to her fiancé under that name. I’m reasonably certain they were bought from a big box store because anybody with much fish experience would know standard morph Jack Dempseys on sight. I knew instantly without ever having seen the fish before. Walked in, peered in through the lime and algae and was like, “Those are Jack Dempseys”.
  17. Even though it isn’t all doing what you had hoped, it’s still coming along. I’d lay those Rotala stems right down behind the rocks and let them root right along the stems since they’re sprouting all along the stems. That’s an instant grove! Pogostemon helferi/downeii was a bit touchy for me at first but I finally got a good tissue culture and it settled, it’s been a beautiful plant for me. Slow growing in low tech, but very striking. It took 3 separate tissue cultures before the last one really took. Be prepared for slow growth from any Fissidens. I love the look of them, but they are super slow growers for me (all low tech). That rock is going to look great once it’s covered! Once it establishes, it will slowly spread and sometimes jump to other spots randomly. The rest looks like you have it under control despite having to pick apart and clean up rotting leaves and stems. That’s all I’ve ever managed with AR ‘Mini’ or ‘Roseafolia’. I’ve got a dab of ‘Mini’ left where I’m trying to convert the very last of my AR to emerse growth and see if I can grow it that way because I’ve had ZERO luck growing it before now. It just kind of sits there, sort grows just enough to tease me, then languishes, starts dropping leaves, then gets algae on any bottom leaves still left, etc. I had about 8 stems left, I’m down to 3, but they at least look like they’re trying. Since you at least have backups from another tank, you’ve got a leg up on a restart for those. Keep plugging away. Every tank finds its balance. You just have to be patient until this tank gets there.
  18. @Patrick_G It’s going to be quite a while before it’s a fishroom, but it’s something I’ve been thinking about doing for months. Then I actually won a raffle for an Alita linear air pump, and a week later I won a set of Muscle shelves! So I’ll be consolidating most (maybe all) of my small tanks into one room rather than have them scattered through 3 rooms. This will be in the bedroom we call the office, so of course it will become “The Offish”. I totally stole the name from somebody else’s forum post. Apologies because I don’t remember whose post it was. So I’ll have 2 racks, one with my 10 G shrimp/grow out/QT tanks and the 5 G culture tanks. These will get moved to the new rack once it’s set up but I need to cut new, stronger, outdoor grade plywood shelves, poly seal them, and give them time to cure. I’ll then move the old rack and it will hold my cubes +/- the 20 long. And I’ll still have an open shelf for another tank(s) on the cube rack. I’m considering options for tanks for Betta persephone. This room already has a desk (clearly every “Offish” needs a desk) with a 29 G (which will be pea puffers soon) and soon to be a 20 high with orange laser cories (in place of the 12 G QT tank). This room also has the 75 G Jack Dempsey tank. After moving the rest of the bookshelves (and a litter box) I’ll also have room for storage, or maybe even another rack someday. Not for a good while, if at all. I’ve already got 24 tanks! I won’t have direct access to plumbing from this room, so I’ll still be using the generic python to drain and my rolling barrel to premix water and refill tanks. But it sure will save me some rolling and shifting around instead of going to 3 different rooms for the small tanks. This room is at least the closest bedroom to the kitchen where I fill my barrel. It’s going to be a lot of steps and stages before it’s done. I’ll do a post when I’ve at least started something beyond just planning and wishful thinking. 😃
  19. I would also lean toward using the hydroponics set up just exactly for that. As you know, plants are your friend and plants with direct access to air tend to pull nitrates best.
  20. There will likely be reduced survival rates in the fry since there will be more fish to eat them and eat eggs. At least that’s what happened with my bronze cories in a 20 gallon tank. To discourage breeding, I would keep them at the low end of their optimal temperature range (not their tolerated range, their optimal range). I would make certain to NOT use cooler water during water changes. Use the same to slightly warmer water. I would try to NOT do water changes just prior to big weather changes/storms. Stop feeding live foods or extra meaty foods as much as is possible while still maintaining their health. Basically avoid anything that can be breeding triggers or do the opposite. I don’t know of anything that will 100% prevent cories from breeding once they get rolling. Sometimes it’s easier to just remove and grow out babies, then sell locally or find a wholesaler that will buy from local breeders.
  21. Angels are notorious for eating eggs, especially new parents. Some never get to the point where they will raise their fry, some do. Removing the eggs is what’s typically done by most breeders. Doing all kinds of things to give the pair more privacy and making them feel more secure could help. Plants, especially big swords, can be helpful. Covering part of the tank so they don’t see activity outside the tank. Any tank mates should be removed, of course. Having fairly dim lighting and a dark room would be important. Using some tannins in the water might even be helpful, too because it can reduce fungus in the eggs and funguses eggs will sometimes trigger them to start eating eggs. They’re supposed to eat the fungused eggs to reduce risk to the other eggs, but then some get carried away.
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