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Hi guys! This is still a work in progress but figured out I could post this here in case anyone is wondering how to polish/restore an acrylic tank. This was the first time I've ever done anything like this and it's my first acrylic tank (and it's big!), and after much research in old forums and asking around, I ended up with this result. I'm pretty satisfied with the result! It was a learning experience! I bought this SeaClear system 2 100g acrylic aquarium for $150, complete with the stand and canopy (I ended up discarding these though.) As you can see, the tank is extremely dirty, scratched and hazy, it seems it wasn't used for quite a bit of time. Came with these ugly discolored gravel lol, no way I will be using that! It seems to be a really old school type? It comes with the original bio balls used for the back, sump-like compartment as well as the pump, can't beleive it still works! Dude had it outside in straight up desert climate. I might have to change that in the future. The background integrated sump. It had crusted up mulm and some rainwater lol. A quick hosing to do a general cleanup. Wet sanding the scratches End of the first day, you can tell by my fat guy "OOF" that I was tired as hell haha. It was a killer arm workout. Must polish until you achieve a frosty looking acrylic. I used 400 - 800 - 1200 and 2000 grit, but you will get better results if you use a wide variety of numbers! The amount of work you have to do also increases though. I did 2 sanding rounds with each grit. I bought that small sandpaper holding thingy at harbor freight, for $5. It definitely made the work much, much easier to be able to comfortably sand. Tutorials said you could use an electric sander if you want to do the work faster and easier for you, but you have to be careful not to electrocute yourself, as you will be using water with these sanding papers. I did not have one and decided to do by hand. Get someone to help you if you can lol, my uncle helped me with all the process so it took me less time than if I did it alone. You could get the whole family to help out one weekend! They will feel proud when they see the beautiful aquarium all set up for sure. Or get some friends, some cold beers/snacks and sand away lol! After 3 days of sanding, it was time to polish the acrylic. I used Mother's car headlight polisher, along with a drill and a polishing bonnet with drill attachment: The bonnet was $9 at harbor freight, but it ended up breaking! I guess the heat of using it too much obliterated it. I suposse they were made for a quick headlight polishing, not for a giant 5ft. acrylic tank lol! We ended up moving to a buffer instead of the drill. It had more power and was more comfortable to use. Felt the Mother's polishing cream wasn't enough, so I bought a Novus polishing kit. That did the trick! I achieved this result with it: Now with custom made stand. I felt the one that came with it was too flimsy. We did one with multiple 2x4's. Can't take chances with 100g of water and a huge oscar in earthquake prone area! (Baja California, Mexico, close to San Adnreas fault lol.) Now I need to finish up the stand (needs doors and paint) and I need to purchase a few pieces of the sump system that are missing. It seems it uses a "drip tray" of some sort to "rain" down water onto the bio balls below! It is a wet-dry filtration system, I have never used one of these, not even a regular sump, but it will be a learning experience as well! The guy is anxiously waiting for his new, forever home to be finished! Stay tuned for the next round of work! I need to complete the stand, (paint and doors) and reinforce the acrylic seams with Weld-On 40 acrylic cement!

Hi Kenneth, Sounds like you are new to the hobby so i'll do what i can. Your plants look fake so i'm assuming you are cycling with fish. In that case you really only want a couple really hardy fish in a 10 gallon, otherwise you are gonna have heavy losses due to ammonia build up, which is likely what happened to your kuhli loaches since they are scaleless fish, and scaleless fish are more sensitive to bad water and susceptible to ich. From your 3rd photo it looks like you have 0.5ppm of chlorine in your water. Maybe it's just the photo throwing the color off, but just in case i would read the instruction of the water conditioner again and make sure you are following it correctly. The 3 SAEs are gonna grow to 6-7 inches and your 10 gallon is no where near enough. I would just return them to the fish store. Actually, i would return the tetras too if you are doing live fish cycling, just keep the 3 cherry barbs in there for 3-4 weeks before adding anything else.

And we have fry in the 40! Nannacara anomola babies!

I think when people add other fish with Bettas or keep sororities, they do it for their own happiness. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it works for awhile, and goes south. Really your choice and depends on the individual personality of the fish. I have 2 very different Bettas. One could probably peacefully coexist with anything I decided to put him, though I chose to just stick with snails, the other I'm about 99% sure would make sure to dispose of all evidence that anything or anyone ever existed with him. He can't even coexist with snails, but I have caught him trying to bury the shells. I'm trying to be careful with wording here. He's hateful and aggressive. Very different personalities.

I thought it would be fun to have an ongoing thread on Fish/Aquarium related news members may come across, old or new. I'll get the ball rolling. Home aquarium hobbyists are helping save 30 rare fish from extinction | New Scientist WWW.NEWSCIENTIST.COM The pet trade often harms wildlife but some dedicated amateur fish-keepers are working to keep many species of fish from extinction Newly Described Electric Eel Has Strongest Voltage Yet Measured WWW.THE-SCIENTIST.COM The same study also finds there are three species of Electrophorus, rather than one. "Smart" Tank Technology is the Future of the Aquarium Hobby WWW.RATEMYFISHTANK.COM Modern advances in technology affect every industry - even the aquarium hobby. Read on to learn about the top tech for aquariums in 2019.

I am glad you are getting help here. You got thrown into the deep end and I am sorry that happened to you. Fish are wonderful pets, but the tank cycle is a necessary part of the process and it trips up new people a lot. Your fish store should have helped you with this, there was no way for you to have guessed this by yourself. I know it seems very complicated right now, but it is actually something that is harder to explain than to show or do. When you set up a new tank you need bacteria to grow in the tank that will help keep the water clean. That is this "cycle" everyone is talking about. That cloudy bloom in the water that you see is a good sign that the bacteria are getting started, and will be helping you in the long run. The store just sold you way too many fish at the start--it is a gradual process and setting up a tank takes a little time and patience while the bacteria grow in. There are ways to hurry that process along, but they can be complicated and confusing. Given that you are new, I think your safest bet is exactly what you have planned, return most of the fish. Then get some Seachem Prime OR a similar water conditioner that will both dechlorinate water and bind ammonia, and a test kit or test strips that measure ammonia and nitrite (which is different than nitrate). You will dose the tank with Prime every day for a while, until the bacteria are able to handle all the fish waste. Your test kit will tell you when the ammonia/nitrite is gone and then you can stop using the Prime every day. Then add new fish just a few at a time, and keep learning about how to keep an aquarium healthy. This forum and the aquarium co-op videos are a great place to start. You can go to the youtube channel and search through the videos for almost any question you have, or ask them on the forum. Good luck and welcome to the forum!

I got some fish chores done today. I minimized the tubing inside my sponge filters per Cory's recent video. I was unable to catch any of the Glowlight Tetras, or the CPDs, but I removed the White Clouds, and took them to the tubs to join the other White Clouds. I stopped by the LFS to drop off Duckweed and snails, and I decided to get six more Glowlight Tetras for the 16. I also picked up my very first Betta, a gorgeous blue female!

Lol, +1 for them all being individuals. I have one I originally named Satan. Then he promptly mellowed (or became excessively lazy) and even allowed shrimp. Still, even in a 55g I think multiple bettas together is asking for issues. They are territorial predators. Everything is either a meal or a rival. I think Satan doesn't care about the snails and shrimps for "enrichment", they are simply too difficult for snacks. He cares a lot about me with a handful of pellets, and is a fan of live foods too, so he gets fed multiple tiny meals a day to keep him from getting bored. The snails and shrimps are there for my benefit, and that of the live plants I like in the tank.

He's hanging out in a small tank with a couple of bent guppy fry, can't really see anything behaviorally off. He seemed a little skinny comparatively so I'm thinking maybe he's just struggling to compete with the big guys a little and maybe underwent some tail nibbles, but I'm not seeing signs of anything more.

I went to feed my Wild Betta Splendens (Super Reds) this evening and to my shock they had been busy and the male was tending to a an overflowing bubble nest! I've been watching and waiting for him to blow a nest but I totally missed him constructing this one along the side of the glass in their blackwater tank. Don't tell him, but his nest is kind of puny! I'm used to my domestics who blow huge nests just in case! I added a piece of bubble wrap to reinforce it for him. Also, I've removed the female because daddy has become very protective and kept chasing her away. I'm loving watching daddy tend to his nest, but TBH, I'm anxious about tending to my first betta spawn! If my Betta Smaragdina Guitar pair decides to spawn it is going to be a full house in my fish/bedroom! (Both these pairs came from Taylor of Simply Betta.) This is my first time spawning bettas of any kind, so I'd love to hear about any experiences people have had breading bettas (especially wild bettas).

So you need to start a thread somewhere so mine will start with yesterdays happenings in the fishroom. Not that little water spills happen all the time in a fishroom. But generally floods don't happen much as you hopefully gain experience. I even know the various little tasks I can get done while draining the brine shrimp hatcher, so as to not create a smelly mess on the floor. So may as well start a fishroom thread with water on the floor. Yesterday I was slow filling a 5 gallon bucket with a 1/2" line from my water change system. This generally takes about 8 minutes so I go about lots of other stuff in the process. But. . . yesterday my phone rang right after I started the water. You already know the scenario, I had to leave the room to get the person some information, it all took longer than expected, get off the call, and BAM!, it hits me, I'm still filling that bucket. Run down the hall to find the fishroom floor flooded. Didn't think to snap a picture, next time I will, my whole thought process was to keep the water from hitting the carpet (it was literally inches away). Attached is my text conversation I had with Randy whom of course said "post it to the forum", well here you go.

should be fine, just stir the water a bit after using it.

No, sorry for the confusion, fake plants have no bearing on this whatsoever. I was hoping the plants were real since they would help with cycling your tank by consuming nitrate. Feel free to look up the pros and cons of different methods of cycling. If you are unfamiliar with the nitrogen cycle, might be worth it to take a look at this video

A fake plant won’t really impact your cycle at all beyond providing a little more real estate for beneficial bacteria. A live plant-in cycle is advocated by Aquarium Co-Op I believe but it’s far from the only method.

Excel has 2.5% polycycloglutaracetal and Easy Carbon has 1.5% glutaraldehyde and 0.5% citric acid. And according to Seachem, "polycycloglutaracetal is an isomeric form of glutaraldehyde, however it is less reactive and more easily utilized by plants as a carbon source", but take this with a grain of salt.

What's your plant quantity/density? Got a pic? Yes, it sounds like your plants are really consuming it all. Cory has suggested in the livestreams to aim for 20 or so ppm nitrates in the tank at all times. You can slow down the consumption by reducing the light.

For @Ksant6 and @Solidus1833: Not to toot my own horn, but I managed to put together a fairly functional DIY version last weekend. Hope you like!

I HAVE FISH! And I have the crappy photos to prove it. I have very specific species in mind, so I decided to stock these nano-ponds strictly with mail order choices (lousy LFS options in North San Diego County). I made my selections based on these criteria, 1. A variety of color themes 2. A variety of small fish types to fit the small size of the nano-ponds 3. Not prohibitively difficult to breed 4. Fish I've never kept or rarely kept Love opinions/observations on the choices, because they're pretty new to me. I started sprinkling in some greenery as well, but I have more coming. So sorry for the poor quality of the photos; I will try to get better ones soon! Nano Pond #1 (RED): These are 12 cherry barbs, with a water hyacinth and some duckweed for cover. There's also a dwarf lily bulb in there. Nano Pond #2 (YELLOW): These are 12 leopard danios, also with a water hyacinth and a few stems of moneywort. And a dwarf lily bulb inside. More greenery to be added! Nano Pond #3 (GREEN): These are 12 green kubotai rasboras, also with a water hyacinth and the beginnings of some errant water lettuce that appeared out of nowhere. Dwarf lily bulb as well. Again, more greenery coming next week! Nano Pond #4 (BLUE): These are three MFF trios (plus one extra, total 13) Hawaiian blue Moscow guppies. The females are nice and robust! This pond also has a water hyacinth, a dwarf lily bulb, and some moneywort stems. Hope those moneywort spreads and starts growing upward! Nano Pond #5 (RAINBOW) These are 10 very young clown killies. Also with a water hyacinth (no lily) in here, with more greens coming next week. I wonder if I'll need to think about lowering my water level much to allow for jumping...maybe duckweed or water lettuce in here as well? What do you think? Nano Pond #6 (LIVE FOOD) I have a large culture of daphnia magna arriving tomorrow, so I hope to keep it alive in here with a large supply of green water I've already prepared. Greenery coming next week: Guppy Grass, Subwassertang, Water Lettuce, and Salvinia! Which of these would you suggest for the clown killies to mitigate jumping? Anyway, let's see how this goes. I will try to get some better pictures in direct sunlight soon, and I'll be feeding them twice a day, with Aquarium Co-Op Easy Fry Food in the morning, and live/frozen baby brine shrimp or small daphnia in the evening. Any thoughts, concerns, advice, please feel free. Most of these fish are new to me! Thanks for looking! Bill

I've never tried it but that said follow the instructions on the bottle but start on the lighter side. Some plants are not tolerant of it but even though most are start at the lighter dosing just in case. No reason to turn off the filter, the liquid dilutes and circulates through the system. the filter won't harm it and it won't harm the filter. If you see progress you can increase to a higher dosing but stay within the recommended doses.

We have a Fluval Lighting thread:

I had the seam in my 100 gallon go in 2019 and I've had the materials to fix and polish it since at least Christmas but have been dreading doing all that again. Once is enough, can't believe how much work goes into that kind of project. Kudos on the results and documentation, well done. I really have to get around to finally fixing mine. Hate wasting a 100 gallons of tank space.

For me it's the 55g in our living room that for whatever reason evaporates like crazy summer and winter. It's the most difficult to set up for water changes so sometimes I just let it get way to low. By the time I get the three little kids to bed I'm usually just too tired. Always easy to put off for another day until you say to yourself, wow I should have taken care of this 3 days ago.

This one has a much darker body than the rest and looks like it's waking a white lipstick. Maybe it's a male? (it's the only one though) Any guesses?

I will post pics when I get home and have some light to get decent shots, so probably tomorrow. The water section of the tank houses 20 or so rainbowfish, a dozen c. Aeneus (bronze) corydoras, a single longfin albino bristlenose pleco, and currently only a single angelfish- the plan had been to have a nice big school of angels in there but my tank crash thread would be why that didn't happen. Here's a little clip of feeding time for the fish, rainbows are wild.

I have drilled holes in the bottom of a tank and run directly to a canister filter, with no problems for years: Non-tempered, of course: I know it's not exactly the same position you were describing, but I figure if this works, your notion will work. I would say drill away! Bill

I have a great idea for you but need a little time to get it legible.

It will definitely be a surprise because I don't even know what's gonna go in there yet. I like the idea of re-creating that 1934 Better Homes & Gardens cover. I haven't had zebra Danios since I was a kid. I've also thought about something like a pygmy sunfish (imagine a guppy crossed with a cichlid with the color of a saltwater fish). That's the sort of thing I can go and collect from a ditch around here. The reason people don't keep them now is because they only eat live foods (which won't be a problem in this aquarium). I don't think I want to keep a fish that people say 'what the heck is that?' (I hear they love them in Germany). But, the males are pretty when they are breeding. That is not an enhanced photo, that is exactly what pygmy sunfish males look like when showing off for females. And the male nuptial dance involves slow staccato waggling while simultaneously and independently flicking each fin. Probably the most amazing fish dance I have ever seen. Technically I could keep this as they are listed in the book. But most people kept, guppies, mollies, and goldfish so those should be the ones I consider first.

Biological Test Method: Acute Lethality Test Using Daphnia spp.

I might use a dosing pump but I also want it to be a good container for growing the green water and if I use Chlorella it will need to be circulated. I am actually thinking of using a brine shrimp setup, maybe even the traditional soda bottle base from SF Bay since I already have a couple of old ones. Then I can either using a dosing pump (I also have an old non-smart one) which is probably the best option now that you mention it. Or I might Mcgyver parts from an IV system for a slow continuous drip. Then I will put a micro bulkhead in the Daphnia container, either from an RO system or Jemcho, for an overflow of sorts. The Daphnia will be in a cheap plastic container. I've hasd pretty good luck growing green water with a few grass cuttings and adding Easy Green. The trick is not using up too much of it at once or it takes too long to grow back. Another reason I am thinking about Chlorella. That and just to be a mad scientist. I'm working on the laugh.

Ostracods for the win! Thanks for the tip @HenryC. No need to nuke but maybe I'll add a fish or two to keep the numbers down. 😎

Back in a previous life when I was a member of the International Betta Congress I raised a lot of bettas and in my experience both males and females would prefer to be apart from other bettas unless it was breeding time. So I wouldn't put her in an aquarium with 2 other girl bettas. Can you put bettas together? Sure. There times when I had 50 young male bettas in a 10 gallon tank. They didn't fight because there was no point in fighting given there was no territory to defend. They were nippy with each other, but never battles. Unless you have an enormous amount of space where completely separate very far apart territories can be defended, I would stick to 1 betta per aquarium.

@DanielI store my python on a J-hook next to the slop sink in the garage. Its a 50ft hose so its pretty long and the husband isn't a huge fan of me connecting it to other sinks in the house, so keeping it next to the slop sink it is. 50 ft from the slop sink is enough to just reach all the tanks around the house. I disconnect it after use and wrap it back up on the hook since the boys are still active in the garage and they still use that slop sink as, well, a slop sink. It gets messy. I tend to leave the end that connects to the faucet hanging in the sink so any residual water can drop in there instead of the floor. To the left is the R/O system and the storage tanks, the extra little faucet on the left side of the slop sink is RO water, although I have a line (the blue one) connected to the tanks that I attach the python directly to when I want RO to put in the aquariums. The boys primarily use the RO faucet when they want that water for their drinks (I personally don't like the taste of the RO but, whatever floats your boat)

And by 'love' I think she means 'eat'. 🙂 I have scuds and guppies together without any problems for the guppy fry. As far as I can tell scuds are detritivores that munch on decaying vegetation or biofilm even.

With 'line' breeding, you breed close relatives with each in order to emphasize the traits or features you desire. Say you had a guppy with a big dorsal fin, you could breed that guppy to close relatives to then choose the offspring with big dorsal fins to continue or even improve the big dorsal fin line of guppies. As we say here in the South, 'Mah family tree don't fork'. 🙂 Eventually other desirable traits can be eliminated, so you might have to outcross to non-close relatives to bring back the traits you lost or maybe to even add new features like color to your line. And @Ryan looking forward to seeing those pics!

No deaths overnight, continuing to dose with the full trio treatment. I am thinking the fungus call is correct as one of the red eye tetras had some white develop on one eye. update - pretty sure @Brandy was correct on the fin rot, possibly accompanied by cotton wool disease. No more dead fish yet but they look very bad so I’ve upped the erythromycin because at this point they will likely not make it. I didn’t note much continuous fin shredding before (thought it was nipping from a naughty blood parrot) and the white patches were very small. I think mistaking it for ich and missing the charcoal in the insert + hard water meant the trio treatment wasn’t enough earlier. My water is also very hard, think that might be putting more stress on the tetras.

When I end up with the same species scattered across multiple tanks and then find their numbers starting to dwindle I usually go ahead and add them all back to one tank to keep up the 'school' for as long as possible as they age out. Perhaps it is me anthropomorphisizing the fish but I figure if they're schooling fish they'd like the company of their own kind. Given that, I'd put the white clouds in the tubs with the other white clouds, and then who gets the 16 and who gets the 20 is down to which tank you like more and which fish you want a larger school of. I personally love the look of CPDs and a good size school of them in a 20 seems like a neat thing. I suppose there is also the consideration which tank is better set up to meet the needs of the species in question. But both tanks are planted so I'm not sure this is as big of a concern unless you were planning on rescaping?

LOL I'm flattered, thanks! I'd get right on it, but it looks like @MickS77 and @ChefConfit found an awesome solution. I'm picking one up straightaway!

I thought of something, a cylindrical brine shrimp hatchery with an automatic sweeper on top. It would sweep the walls of the chamber at the water line preventing the eggs from floating and sticking to the walls. The technology exists for cleaning the necks of saltwater protein skimmers, just needs adapted 🤔

If I could only keep one of my current tanks it'd be my 220 - because it's actually a paludarium and houses my boa, not just fish. I think my beloved snake would be might unhappy if I took away his ability to have 'swimming pool' and had to go back to a smaller enclosure with just a water bowl in the corner. Its the best of both worlds for me, I get my fish tank and my snake enclosure, all in one space, which, were I in an apartment, would probably take up less space ultimately than a fish tank and a separate snake enclosure. Now, if I didn't have my snake that may be a different answer but as boas live 49 some years and my guy is only 5.... he'll be with me a long time yet.

I've never tried dosing ammonia. I would just have patience, feed the snails, and the cycle will develop naturally without any extra effort. Nothing good happens fast in aquariums. Cory has an old video about cycling with plants 👍

Endlers came today (the Post Office held them for 2 days at the nearby distribution center). I put some mosquito larva in the tank for them to eat. I cannot wait to setup the actual vintage tank as soon as it is repaired.

So here are some pictures of my Super Red pair. Male is short fin and female is long fin. I usually get about 75% long fins which leads me to believe that my female is Aa for the long fin gene, assuming that the long fin is a dominant Mendelian trait (the male is aa recessive for short fin). I've been photographing the eggs for the past few days: This photo is 12 hours after fertilization. This photo is 4 days after fertilization. You can see their eyes and tiny heads attached to the yolk sack inside the egg!!!

Putting away my tools. It looks like the aquarium co-op warehouse exploded in here sometimes, I trail from tank to tank, dripping water all over the place, leaving a bottle of prime here, a shrimp net there, a pair of planting forceps hooked on the edge of a shelf next to an abandoned test tube rack...And then I am interrupted by a family or work "emergency" that requires me to handle it, and there it all stays. I need to devise a caddy of some kind. A 5g bucket on wheels, with tool holders around the rim! I bet @Bill Smith has already designed one.

I don't think it's cheating on the hard parts as long as...you wear period dress while maintaining the aquarium. There's gotta be a trade off. Especially a Fedora, that's non-negotiable.

Interesting philosophic question regarding staying true to 1930s methods. The easy part will be: A 1930s aquarium without specialty aquarium lighting No heater just a glass top A 1930s aquarium stand No filtration The medium hard part 1930s fish foods (thank goodness live foods were popular as I already do a lot of that) 1930s fish and plants as years of breeding have made the fish and plants more adapted to aquarium conditions The hard part How to un-know the aquarium keeping knowledge gained over the last 90 years And a hard question: Is it against the rules test water parameter using modern methods I can tell what temperature the water is to within about 5°F. If the water feels 'coolish', I know that it is in the lower 70s. If the water feels luke-warmish, I know that it is in the high 70s, if the water feels moderately warm I know that it's in the low to mid 80s, and if it begins to feel actually warm it's in the 90s. But I realized today when I was using a NIST traceable temperature sensor accurate to within 0.1°F to see if the tank had held its heat overnight that this might not have been exactly what they would've done in the 1930s. They had good thermometers back then of course so why I am concerned? I am concerned because I have to make a decision of what I want to learn. Am I going to dress in vintage clothing and while listening to AM radio and feeding my zebra danios daphnia? I am sure it would be a learning experience. But that is just it. I want to learn things I didn't know. Today (by using modern measuring equipment) I learned that the tank is not at its coolest temperature early in the morning. This was a naive assumption based my house being at its coolest temperature early in the morning, but my fish tank is at the nadir of coolness at about noon at 73.6°F. That make total sense once I think about this as the temperature is as much of a lagging indicator as consumer confidence is to the economy. My urge is to follow the rules on the easy parts and medium parts, but give myself a break on the hard parts and measure everything with all the equipment at my disposal and see just what I can learn from this experiment. Is that cheating?

Yesterday afternoon I added a glass cover as per page 22 of the 1936 edition of The Complete Aquarium Book. Also @Lynze and @Brandy in above posts. Did this help? Yes! Yesterday morning I recorded a temperature of 69.4°F with the tank uncovered the night before. After placing the glass cover on yesterday afternoon, this morning I recorded a temperature of 74.6°F This is much more the kind of temperature I had been hoping for as my choice of tropical fish at 75°F is a little bit better than at 69°F. I'm still waiting on the restoration to be complete on the actual 1930s aquarium but I will continue to test on this tank in the meantime. I have some Endler's guppies that might be arriving today and if they get here, I will go ahead and throw them in the tank also.

Thank you Irene. I have learnt a lot of things from you. Luckily I watched your livebearers video recently and ordered some from Greg Sage. I dosed the fish yesterday and already see the fish lost the worms.

So over the last few days I found it necessary to set up a couple overflow tanks to raise up some ram fry. A little messy but will have to work for a while, only 10 feet from the laundry sink and 3 feet from the ironing board. (this is my wifes sewing table 😬 🤐, don't tell) Transferred a total of 296 midnight rams and 327 gold rams for growing out.

Like this? I catch native fairy shrimp from time to time, but never get more than a few when I have tried to raise them. They are huge and so pretty.