Spitzzard

Just want to post a quick update, after feeding food mixed with kanaplex for about one and half weeks it seems to have stopped the infection from getting worse, though I think some damage has been done and one side of the fish's month looks a bit caved in, but at least I didn't lose him. I did notice him having a little problem getting bigger chunks of food into his mouth sometimes but overall he seems happy and healthy. The white bump on his fin has completely healed as well. Thanks everyone for the help and especially @Colu for the detailed instructions!

got it, will get that ready, appreciate the help!

Roger that, will get a 10 gallon ready today. The recipe also have Focus, i'm assuming Seachem Focus? Is that needed?

Hi again, got some not so great update on this, this morning I noticed half of his upper lip seems to be swollen and rotting, almost like something took a bite out of it. I'm on the 6th day of ich-x and maracyn treatment, going to do a big water change today. But the medicine didn't seem to help. Is there anything else I can try? Also I did notice the tissue in that area was more pale than the other side yesterday, but it seems to have got a lot worse today. Other than that the fish is still eating and behaving normally and seem to be generally happy.

thanks y'all, luckily i have both ich-x and maracyn on hand, will get a quarantine tank ready tomorrow and get this little guy in there.

Hi guys, I just noticed this today, there's a white lump on the base of my male Apisto's pectoral fin. Can anyone tell me what this might be and if I should be concerned? The fish is active and behaving normally. There's also a little bit of weird growth on his upper lip that looks like peeling skin, not sure if its related, thanks! Water param is a bit on the harder side for apistos 7.4 PH, temp 78-82F from the front it's clearly raised, also the peeling skin looking thing on the upper lip is more obvious here. comparison from the other side, nothing wrong here.

i've left them in there for a couple years and haven't noticed any problems.

If you like Harlequin Rasbora I would just get 6-8 of those, I prefer lampchop rasboras because their orange is bit more prominent. They'll hang around mid to top level of the tank and provides a nice color contrast with the neon tetras.

should be fine, they might just take a bit longer to hatch. My room is only 60 degrees so I use a small heater like this for my brine shrimp hatchery https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DTH7F3F/ Might or might not work depends on your setup.

If you believe in this chart, it's possible you got a mix of blue dream and blue velvet and they are crossbreeding.

@Kat_Rigel hard to say, in my case the red spots only appeared on the body and would slowly spread over a few days. My only guess in my case is Hemorrhagic Septicemia, but it didn't respond to any anti-bacterial meds I used (erythromycin and maracyn 2), so I never confirmed what it was.

different people have different definition of what humane breeding looks like. as far as online fish store goes i've heard good things about Aquatic Arts, who gets most of their stock from hobbyists. i know Oddball Aquatics on youtube works there and have a few videos on what their facility looks like, you can check it out and judge for yourself. https://www.youtube.com/c/Oddballaquatics/videos PS. i just checked their site, they have a bunch of tank bred bettas too.

if you have a hangon back filter, you can also put the crushed coral in a filter media bag and place it in the filter. Since your tap water is more acidic than your tank water, the more water you change the more acidic it will be, but 10% water change a week shouldn't alter your PH level in a significant way, if you can get away with that then i think that's fine.

you could try Hydrogen Peroxide, it's less potent than Easy Carbon but at the same time less harmful for your animals. i've had some success using it to spot treat green hair algae, but it always comes back a few weeks later.

should be fine, just stir the water a bit after using it.

I guess it depends on how long those dead shrimp have been there, in my experience whenever my shrimp colony start acting funny i would find a dead one or two hidden away in the corner somewhere, half decomposed, but then again all of my tanks are 10 to 20 gals. Also i think if Seachem Excel or copper in the water were the culprit, i would expect to find dead shrimps in your tank as well, instead of all of them in the filter.

happy to help! if you have any other questions feel free to ask here either in this topic or post a new one.

I believe Super Ick Cure tells you to redose after 48 hours? In that case i would follow that, the medication only kills the adult parasite but not the eggs, which means you need to wait for the eggs to hatch and dose again, hence the 48 hours interval.

No, sorry for the confusion, fake plants have no bearing on this whatsoever. I was hoping the plants were real since they would help with cycling your tank by consuming nitrate. Feel free to look up the pros and cons of different methods of cycling. If you are unfamiliar with the nitrogen cycle, might be worth it to take a look at this video

Excel has 2.5% polycycloglutaracetal and Easy Carbon has 1.5% glutaraldehyde and 0.5% citric acid. And according to Seachem, "polycycloglutaracetal is an isomeric form of glutaraldehyde, however it is less reactive and more easily utilized by plants as a carbon source", but take this with a grain of salt.

So sounds like you have a HOB filter for this tank? Do you have a pre-filter sponge? I'm assuming no because otherwise the shrimps wouldn't be able to get in there. I would strongly recommend a pre-filter sponge so your shrimp can't crawl into your filter for food and then get stuck in there and die, and you would be none the wiser. You mentioned that you found the dead shrimp yesterday and this morning the ammonia reads at 0? That's a bit strange, did you happen to test ammonia right when you found the dead shrimp in your filter? I suppose it's possible you had an ammonia spike from the dead shrimp, and since you took them out yesterday, your bacteria processed all the ammonia overnight, which results in the 0 reading in the morning, but your animals are showing the aftereffects of the ammonia spike. And Flourish Excel is kind of harmful to your shrimp, but you shouldn't lose more than a couple a week even when you are dosing everyday as long as you are following the recommended dose.

Since white clouds are egg layers I don't think they should get that bloated even when full of eggs... but i could be wrong. Just in case you can try boil some green peas, peel the shell off and mush them to tiny pieces and see they'll eat that, the fiber should help with the bloating.

Hi Kenneth, Sounds like you are new to the hobby so i'll do what i can. Your plants look fake so i'm assuming you are cycling with fish. In that case you really only want a couple really hardy fish in a 10 gallon, otherwise you are gonna have heavy losses due to ammonia build up, which is likely what happened to your kuhli loaches since they are scaleless fish, and scaleless fish are more sensitive to bad water and susceptible to ich. From your 3rd photo it looks like you have 0.5ppm of chlorine in your water. Maybe it's just the photo throwing the color off, but just in case i would read the instruction of the water conditioner again and make sure you are following it correctly. The 3 SAEs are gonna grow to 6-7 inches and your 10 gallon is no where near enough. I would just return them to the fish store. Actually, i would return the tetras too if you are doing live fish cycling, just keep the 3 cherry barbs in there for 3-4 weeks before adding anything else.

So this is actually from about half a year ago. I've since lost this guppy and two others to this same disease, all of them were females. What happens is they would at first get sluggish and not swim around too much. Then they would stop eating. Usually around when they stop eating they start developing red spots(see photo) on their body. It usually just starts with a tiny red spot but then develop into larger patches, like internal bleeding. I was also seeing one of them flashing. And eventually they would die, usually the whole process takes about 1 week. I've treated this with salt and Maracyn 2, but neither made any improvement. After doing quite a bit of research on the internet i haven't find anything that matches this exactly, the strangest part was all the other inhabitants of that tank were fine, including the male guppies. So I was wondering if anyone here has any insight on what this could be and how to treat it.

I only have success with spot treatment. BBA is very resilient and it probably won't die off if you just dose the recommended amount in your tank, but if you overdose it'll have adverse effect on the other critters.